I've been having problems with these dimmers. They have the rocker preset
underneath the slider.

Two of them in a double-gang, center heatsink tabs broken off, 1000W
rating, 800 as installed. Each dimmer has 600-650W of incandescent lighting
on it.

After about 5 or 6 months, the more commonly used one started arcing when
the rocker was switched. I got Lutron to send replacements. In about 6
months after these were installed these started arcing as well. I just
ignored it (wasn't all that bad - only when the rocker was made) but it has
gotten progressively worse. Just now it arced horribly, even the slider
rheostat appears to be suffering, or the rocker contacts are barely being
made.

Are these just bad dimmers and if so what's a good solid one I can get? If
it matters, the sliders were usually in full on position and the rocker
toggled on/off. I don't know if this puts undue stress on the contacts.

Thanks.
__________________________________________________ _______________
JG... Jeff Givens


"My hovercraft is full of eels."

"Jeff Givens" wrote in message
...
I've been having problems with these dimmers. They have the rocker preset
underneath the slider.

Two of them in a double-gang, center heatsink tabs broken off, 1000W
rating, 800 as installed. Each dimmer has 600-650W of incandescent
lighting
on it.


It sounds to me like you are pushing the limit and maybe over the limit
(what exactly do you mean "center heatsink tabs broken off?" With two of
them in the same box running close to their max, I suggest they are getting
too hot.




After about 5 or 6 months, the more commonly used one started arcing when
the rocker was switched. I got Lutron to send replacements. In about 6
months after these were installed these started arcing as well. I just
ignored it (wasn't all that bad - only when the rocker was made) but it
has
gotten progressively worse. Just now it arced horribly, even the slider
rheostat appears to be suffering, or the rocker contacts are barely being
made.

Are these just bad dimmers and if so what's a good solid one I can get? If
it matters, the sliders were usually in full on position and the rocker
toggled on/off. I don't know if this puts undue stress on the contacts.

Thanks.
__________________________________________________ _______________
JG... Jeff Givens


"My hovercraft is full of eels."

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
.. .
"Jeff Givens" wrote in message
...
I've been having problems with these dimmers. They have the rocker preset
underneath the slider.

Two of them in a double-gang, center heatsink tabs broken off, 1000W
rating, 800 as installed. Each dimmer has 600-650W of incandescent
lighting
on it.


It sounds to me like you are pushing the limit and maybe over the limit
(what exactly do you mean "center heatsink tabs broken off?" With two of
them in the same box running close to their max, I suggest they are
getting too hot.

Another vote for that idea. And, are these in a damp environment, or even an
outside wall with wide temperature swings?

I've had similar problems with Skylarks. I think they just make some bad
batches. I'd recommend their Diva model. It has a more substantial switch


"Jeff Givens" wrote in message
...
I've been having problems with these dimmers. They have the rocker preset
underneath the slider.

Two of them in a double-gang, center heatsink tabs broken off, 1000W
rating, 800 as installed. Each dimmer has 600-650W of incandescent
lighting
on it.

After about 5 or 6 months, the more commonly used one started arcing when
the rocker was switched. I got Lutron to send replacements. In about 6
months after these were installed these started arcing as well. I just
ignored it (wasn't all that bad - only when the rocker was made) but it
has
gotten progressively worse. Just now it arced horribly, even the slider
rheostat appears to be suffering, or the rocker contacts are barely being
made.

Are these just bad dimmers and if so what's a good solid one I can get? If
it matters, the sliders were usually in full on position and the rocker
toggled on/off. I don't know if this puts undue stress on the contacts.

Thanks.
__________________________________________________ _______________
JG... Jeff Givens


"My hovercraft is full of eels."

On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 20:23:35 GMT "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

It sounds to me like you are pushing the limit and maybe over the limit
(what exactly do you mean "center heatsink tabs broken off?" With two of
them in the same box running close to their max, I suggest they are getting
too hot.

When doubling up, according to Lutron, you break of the center heat sinks.
This derates the 1000W unit to 800 each. I am well w/in their own
specifications.

These are in a basement exterior wall, so yes an outside wall but almost at
a constant temperature.
__________________________________________________ _______________
JG... Jeff Givens


"My hovercraft is full of eels."

"Jeff Givens" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 20:23:35 GMT "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

It sounds to me like you are pushing the limit and maybe over the
limit
(what exactly do you mean "center heatsink tabs broken off?" With two of
them in the same box running close to their max, I suggest they are
getting
too hot.

When doubling up, according to Lutron, you break of the center heat sinks.
This derates the 1000W unit to 800 each. I am well w/in their own
specifications.

These are in a basement exterior wall, so yes an outside wall but almost
at
a constant temperature.
__________________________________________________ _______________
JG... Jeff Givens


"My hovercraft is full of eels."

Try a little preventative maintenence with some spray-on electrical contact
cleaner. The kind that leaves a lubricating residue that inhibits
oxidation. (for you old timers, previously popular as TV tuner cleaner back
when we used knobs and had to get up to change the channel)

Arcing gets progressively worse as oxidized and carbonized deposits build up
from subsiquent arcing. The arcing is the electricity's way of punching
through that non conducting layer to make contact (obviously this is
assisted by the mechanical snap of the switch contacts). Ultimately this
can result in an open but since everything in the switch is non flammible,
it is usually harmless.

Furthermore, cheap mechanical parts can contribute to contact chatter which
will also initiate arcing. Continued use wears at the pivot and sliding
parts of the switch handles and mechanically gets looser.

While you may be within the mfg spec limits, you have demonstrated that they
still do not perform well under these conditions. They still work, right?
You just don't like to see the arc when you flip the switch, right?

I'm sure there are better quality controls. Look for commercial quality (as
opposed to contractor or homeowner grade) switches and they will perform
better. Heavier metal contacts, thicker plating, more durable plastics and
higher current components would be found in the better switches. (not that
it will be labeled as so)

BTW, if your voltage is high, that 650 W could be actually over 700W worse
case or more given the tolerance bulbs are made to. I am not sure of the
tolerance on a lightbulb but I wouldn't expect better than 10%. Try a metal
J box and a metal face plate for better heat removal.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit
"Jeff Givens" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 20:23:35 GMT "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

It sounds to me like you are pushing the limit and maybe over the
limit
(what exactly do you mean "center heatsink tabs broken off?" With two of
them in the same box running close to their max, I suggest they are
getting
too hot.

When doubling up, according to Lutron, you break of the center heat sinks.
This derates the 1000W unit to 800 each. I am well w/in their own
specifications.

From my experience with various brands, I always go at unit with at
least 100% over expected load capacity any brand. They all seem to have
trouble when they approach their rated limit.


These are in a basement exterior wall, so yes an outside wall but almost
at
a constant temperature.
__________________________________________________ _______________
JG... Jeff Givens


"My hovercraft is full of eels."

"Jeff Givens" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 20:23:35 GMT "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

It sounds to me like you are pushing the limit and maybe over the
limit
(what exactly do you mean "center heatsink tabs broken off?" With two of
them in the same box running close to their max, I suggest they are
getting
too hot.

When doubling up, according to Lutron, you break of the center heat sinks.
This derates the 1000W unit to 800 each. I am well w/in their own
specifications.

I'm not clear on why they'd want the heat sinks removed. If there are two
controls in the same box, there's more heat being generated. It seems
intuitive that you'd want MORE heat sink area, not less. Physically, was
there enough space to leave all the heat sinks intact?

Typically not when there are ajoining units, they will overlap if the
side heat-sinks are not removed and the units will sit cocked

On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 00:50:38 GMT "PipeDown" wrote:

While you may be within the mfg spec limits, you have demonstrated that they
still do not perform well under these conditions. They still work, right?
You just don't like to see the arc when you flip the switch, right?

Yes they work but the arcing is now awful. Before, it was a slight pop on
the contacts being made and over time it turned into a crackling noise, I
guess as the contacts eroded. Residue would build up on the exterior of the
switch about the rocker.

I then went to having the slider all the way down before turning it on and
the other day as I slid the slider up there was a *lot* of arcing, over a
period of several seconds.

So it seems to be either an issue of poor quality switches or a fair
overload. 10 65W incandescents at = 125VAC, even if sloppy load tolerances
it seems to be a very unforgiving switch.

I'm sure there are better quality controls. Look for commercial quality (as
opposed to contractor or homeowner grade) switches and they will perform
better. Heavier metal contacts, thicker plating, more durable plastics and
higher current components would be found in the better switches. (not that
it will be labeled as so)

Can you recommend a brand? Everything I see in the mega stores is all the
same stuff. One poster recommended the Diva Lutron variant.
__________________________________________________ _______________
JG... Jeff Givens


"My hovercraft is full of eels."

On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 01:27:46 GMT "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

From my experience with various brands, I always go at unit with at
least 100% over expected load capacity any brand. They all seem to have
trouble when they approach their rated limit.

I haven't seen a single one in the major chains over 1000W per.
__________________________________________________ _______________
JG... Jeff Givens


"My hovercraft is full of eels."

On 27 Apr 2006 05:06:35 -0700 "JGolan" wrote:

Typically not when there are ajoining units, they will overlap if the
side heat-sinks are not removed and the units will sit cocked

Also, there may be a heat dissipation matter if two tabs with 1/2 the
exposed surface area to air, possibly a local overtemp situation?
__________________________________________________ _______________
JG... Jeff Givens


"My hovercraft is full of eels."

"Jeff Givens" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 01:27:46 GMT "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

From my experience with various brands, I always go at unit with at
least 100% over expected load capacity any brand. They all seem to have
trouble when they approach their rated limit.

I haven't seen a single one in the major chains over 1000W per.


If I were you, I'd be on the phone to this company right away:

Leviton Mfg. Company Inc.
59-25 Little Neck Pkwy.,
Little Neck, N.Y. 11362-2591
Phone 718-229-4040
Fax 1-800-832-9538
Tech Support 1-800-824-3005

www.leviton.com

Jeff Givens wrote:
I've been having problems with these dimmers. They have the rocker preset
underneath the slider.

Two of them in a double-gang, center heatsink tabs broken off, 1000W
rating, 800 as installed. Each dimmer has 600-650W of incandescent lighting
on it.

After about 5 or 6 months, the more commonly used one started arcing when
the rocker was switched. I got Lutron to send replacements. In about 6
months after these were installed these started arcing as well. I just
ignored it (wasn't all that bad - only when the rocker was made) but it has
gotten progressively worse. Just now it arced horribly, even the slider
rheostat appears to be suffering, or the rocker contacts are barely being
made.

Are these just bad dimmers and if so what's a good solid one I can get? If
it matters, the sliders were usually in full on position and the rocker
toggled on/off. I don't know if this puts undue stress on the contacts.

I just replaced the same dimmer for the same reason, only mine was
brand new.

As simple as these things seem, they're not perfected products. I
called about a timer switch for a bathroom fan and the tech rep told me
that the available replacement was receiving a higher incident of
complaints than what they found acceptable, so they were in the process
of replacing that model sometime this summer.

R

Jeff Givens wrote:


I then went to having the slider all the way down before turning it on and
the other day as I slid the slider up there was a *lot* of arcing, over a
period of several seconds.


This clearly sounds like a Lutron problem with the switch. Switches
shouldn't have a problem arcing on contact. I would suggest going back
to Lutron again.

bud--

On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 11:02:04 -0500 Bud-- wrote:

This clearly sounds like a Lutron problem with the switch. Switches
shouldn't have a problem arcing on contact. I would suggest going back
to Lutron again.

Yeah, but I was giving up on Lutron, but...

....I called and was told that they have been having some "known" problem
with the rocker contacts, apparently replacing a lot of them.

They are sending me 2 new ones, sliders only.
__________________________________________________ _______________
JG... Jeff Givens


"My hovercraft is full of eels."

Jeff Givens wrote:

I've been having problems with these dimmers. They have the rocker preset
underneath the slider.

Two of them in a double-gang, center heatsink tabs broken off, 1000W
rating, 800 as installed. Each dimmer has 600-650W of incandescent lighting
on it.

After about 5 or 6 months, the more commonly used one started arcing when
the rocker was switched. I got Lutron to send replacements. In about 6
months after these were installed these started arcing as well. I just
ignored it (wasn't all that bad - only when the rocker was made) but it has
gotten progressively worse. Just now it arced horribly, even the slider
rheostat appears to be suffering, or the rocker contacts are barely being
made.

Are these just bad dimmers and if so what's a good solid one I can get? If
it matters, the sliders were usually in full on position and the rocker
toggled on/off. I don't know if this puts undue stress on the contacts.


The Lutron Skylarks I had arced and smoked after a short time with
lighting under half their rated load.

I'd say they're crap.

The Levitons I have been using for the past 10-15 yrs - sliders,
touch-dimmers and rocker styles - have been flawless.

In fact the 50-year-old Leviton (rotary) dimmers that came with my
recently purchased house still work perfectly.

On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 18:12:32 GMT "Bob (but not THAT Bob)"
wrote:

The Lutron Skylarks I had arced and smoked after a short time with
lighting under half their rated load.

Yeah, those are ones I had. No (visible) smoke, just lots of arcing and
residue.
__________________________________________________ _______________
JG... Jeff Givens


"My hovercraft is full of eels."

Jeff Givens wrote:
On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 01:27:46 GMT "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

From my experience with various brands, I always go at unit with
at least 100% over expected load capacity any brand. They all seem
to have trouble when they approach their rated limit.

I haven't seen a single one in the major chains over 1000W per.

What you are looking for is more of a commercial item than a homeowner's
item. Check out an electrical supply house.

__________________________________________________ _______________
JG... Jeff Givens


"My hovercraft is full of eels."

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit