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Default Lutron Dimmers Arcing


"Jeff Givens" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 20:23:35 GMT "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

It sounds to me like you are pushing the limit and maybe over the
limit
(what exactly do you mean "center heatsink tabs broken off?" With two of
them in the same box running close to their max, I suggest they are
getting
too hot.


When doubling up, according to Lutron, you break of the center heat sinks.
This derates the 1000W unit to 800 each. I am well w/in their own
specifications.

These are in a basement exterior wall, so yes an outside wall but almost
at
a constant temperature.
__________________________________________________ _______________
JG... Jeff Givens


"My hovercraft is full of eels."


Try a little preventative maintenence with some spray-on electrical contact
cleaner. The kind that leaves a lubricating residue that inhibits
oxidation. (for you old timers, previously popular as TV tuner cleaner back
when we used knobs and had to get up to change the channel)

Arcing gets progressively worse as oxidized and carbonized deposits build up
from subsiquent arcing. The arcing is the electricity's way of punching
through that non conducting layer to make contact (obviously this is
assisted by the mechanical snap of the switch contacts). Ultimately this
can result in an open but since everything in the switch is non flammible,
it is usually harmless.

Furthermore, cheap mechanical parts can contribute to contact chatter which
will also initiate arcing. Continued use wears at the pivot and sliding
parts of the switch handles and mechanically gets looser.

While you may be within the mfg spec limits, you have demonstrated that they
still do not perform well under these conditions. They still work, right?
You just don't like to see the arc when you flip the switch, right?

I'm sure there are better quality controls. Look for commercial quality (as
opposed to contractor or homeowner grade) switches and they will perform
better. Heavier metal contacts, thicker plating, more durable plastics and
higher current components would be found in the better switches. (not that
it will be labeled as so)

BTW, if your voltage is high, that 650 W could be actually over 700W worse
case or more given the tolerance bulbs are made to. I am not sure of the
tolerance on a lightbulb but I wouldn't expect better than 10%. Try a metal
J box and a metal face plate for better heat removal.