How do professionals cut plexiglass? I am going to need to cut some, as
well as rout some of the edges to make them fit into slots.

Would I be better cutting these on a table saw with a special blade, or
using a router blade that has say a narrow width? Maybe even taking more
than one cut, and using a fence as a guide.

I'm going to Google on this, just wanted to know if anyone did this sort of
thing. It has to be a quality finished cut.

Steve

I have seen it cut with an ordinary radial arm saw or table saw with
the blade put on backwards. I find it is also easy to score it several
times with a utility knife and then bend it over a straight edge and it
will break cleanly along the score.

Pat

My son used my Rot-Zip and it worked
well. I was surprised that it didn't
melt or burn.

Steve B wrote:
How do professionals cut plexiglass? I am going to need to cut some, as
well as rout some of the edges to make them fit into slots.

Would I be better cutting these on a table saw with a special blade, or
using a router blade that has say a narrow width? Maybe even taking more
than one cut, and using a fence as a guide.

I'm going to Google on this, just wanted to know if anyone did this sort of
thing. It has to be a quality finished cut.

Steve

"Steve B" wrote in message
news:mW0%f.387$QP4.185@fed1read12...
How do professionals cut plexiglass? I am going to need to cut
some, as
well as rout some of the edges to make them fit into slots.

Would I be better cutting these on a table saw with a special
blade, or
using a router blade that has say a narrow width? Maybe even
taking more
than one cut, and using a fence as a guide.

I'm going to Google on this, just wanted to know if anyone did
this sort of
thing. It has to be a quality finished cut.

Steve


What application are you using it in?
You probably really mean Lexan, not plexiglass. Plexiglass is
crap compared to Lexan.
Use a roto-zip or your router with a carbide bit. High rpm's and
keep it moving. If you stop, it will melt and make a
nasty(melted) hard spot as well as load up your tool. You _can_
score it and break it if it is a sheet. Make sure you score it
well. Once you have it cut and sand the edges smooth, you can
probably get it to clear up on the edges if you run a BIC lighter
over the cut edge. It's a little tricky, don't dwell in any one
spot. If you need to drill any holes in it, sharpen your drill to
a severe point, kind of like a pencil. That will help avoid
"breakout" of the hole when you drill a through hole. Good Luck.

Steve B wrote:
How do professionals cut plexiglass? I am going to need to cut some, as
well as rout some of the edges to make them fit into slots.

Would I be better cutting these on a table saw with a special blade, or
using a router blade that has say a narrow width? Maybe even taking more
than one cut, and using a fence as a guide.

I'm going to Google on this, just wanted to know if anyone did this sort of
thing. It has to be a quality finished cut.

Steve


I cut some on my radial arm saw with carbide blade

Steve B wrote:
How do professionals cut plexiglass? I am going to need to cut some, as
well as rout some of the edges to make them fit into slots.

Would I be better cutting these on a table saw with a special blade, or
using a router blade that has say a narrow width? Maybe even taking more
than one cut, and using a fence as a guide.

I'm going to Google on this, just wanted to know if anyone did this sort of
thing. It has to be a quality finished cut.

Steve


I suppose I would count as "how the professionals do it" I repaired
windows for several years (After school at the local hardware store). I
cut plexi glass with a rig that looked like this

http://www.nebraskatool.com/images/MiscTools/013.jpg

Not sure if thats actually the one. Anyway - the cutter head could be
swapped between a Plexiglas cutter and a glass cutter.

The plexi cutter was a sharp point blade (hook maybe? been a long time).
The plexi sheet would be scored several times and then a
thing-a-ma-bob would be inserted behind the vertical rails to snap the
scored plexi. Started at the top and worked down. Glass the same way
except except scored once and I did not use the thing-a-ma-bob to snap
the glass I just slid to the right and pushed back to snap off the waste.

Anyway - Thats how this pro cut plexi many years ago. Today I would just
score with a utility knife and snap. Simple, easy and doesn't involve
motors spinning at thousands of RPMs. Don't get me wrong, I'm all about
power tools, but cutting plexi is not a place where you should use them.

Now - If we are not talking about plexi then...

Steve B wrote:
How do professionals cut plexiglass? I am going to need to cut some, as
well as rout some of the edges to make them fit into slots.

Would I be better cutting these on a table saw with a special blade, or
using a router blade that has say a narrow width? Maybe even taking more
than one cut, and using a fence as a guide.

I'm going to Google on this, just wanted to know if anyone did this sort of
thing. It has to be a quality finished cut.

Steve



As all mentioned here, about any fast cutting good blade will cut
plexiglass, but they forgot to mention one thing the professionals do.
Leave the plastic film on both sides so you don't scratch it up. If no
plastic film, then put some painters tape along the line where you're
going to cut. When you get ready to install the plexiglass then remove
the film or tape.

J

Steve i used to be a glaizer for 17 years.They sell a cheap tool for
scoring plastic. 1/8 is easy use a stright edge and score it several
times and snap it over the sharp edge of a counter top of sheet of
plywood. You can cut some plastics with a saw but sometimes burning
accurs and alot of times it leaves hair line cracks the will trave over
time But by all means leave the protective over on untill your ready
to install it
Hope this helps

Steve i used to be a glaizer for 17 years.They sell a cheap tool for
scoring plastic. 1/8 is easy use a stright edge and score it several
times and snap it over the sharp edge of a counter top of sheet of
plywood. You can cut some plastics with a saw but sometimes burning
accurs and alot of times it leaves hair line cracks the will trave over
time But by all means leave the protective over on untill your ready
to install it
Hope this helps

"Steve B" wrote in message
news:mW0%f.387$QP4.185@fed1read12...
How do professionals cut plexiglass? I am going to need to cut some, as
well as rout some of the edges to make them fit into slots.

Would I be better cutting these on a table saw with a special blade, or
using a router blade that has say a narrow width? Maybe even taking more
than one cut, and using a fence as a guide.

I'm going to Google on this, just wanted to know if anyone did this sort
of thing. It has to be a quality finished cut.

Steve

Forget the $25 blade. The pros pay big bucks for the correct blades. I
recommend a narrow kerf version like some shown he
http://www.forrestsawblades.com/nomelt.htm
I also recommend a blade dampener/stiffener that cuts down on vibrations
that may transmit to the work.

There are special router blades for acrylic as well.

Feed rate is very important. Too fast may cause chipping, to slow may cause
melting. Plaskolite and Cyro have very good online fabricationg guides.

I fabricate acrylic display cases and such on the side. It can be a
challenging material to work with. Without the proper tools, forget it.
John

"Kathy" wrote in message
...

"Steve B" wrote in message
news:mW0%f.387$QP4.185@fed1read12...
How do professionals cut plexiglass? I am going to need to cut
some, as
well as rout some of the edges to make them fit into slots.

Would I be better cutting these on a table saw with a special
blade, or
using a router blade that has say a narrow width? Maybe even
taking more
than one cut, and using a fence as a guide.

I'm going to Google on this, just wanted to know if anyone did
this sort of
thing. It has to be a quality finished cut.

Steve


What application are you using it in?
You probably really mean Lexan, not plexiglass. Plexiglass is
crap compared to Lexan.
Use a roto-zip or your router with a carbide bit. High rpm's and
keep it moving. If you stop, it will melt and make a
nasty(melted) hard spot as well as load up your tool. You _can_
score it and break it if it is a sheet. Make sure you score it
well. Once you have it cut and sand the edges smooth, you can
probably get it to clear up on the edges if you run a BIC lighter
over the cut edge. It's a little tricky, don't dwell in any one
spot. If you need to drill any holes in it, sharpen your drill to
a severe point, kind of like a pencil. That will help avoid
"breakout" of the hole when you drill a through hole. Good Luck.


I disagree. It depends on the purpose. Lexan (polycarbonate) is a very tough
material, but it is 3x the price of plexi (acrylic). Polycarbonate (PC) is a
soft plastic and scratches much easier than acrylic. Running your
fingernails over PC will scratch it, but not acrylic. When used outdoors, PC
will haze due to UV and loose some of its strength. Acrylic is far more
robust in outdoor applications. Of course, PC can be purchased with
anti-abrasion and UV filter coatings making an expensive material even more
costly. Finally, PC looks like sh!t when using it for display case and
similar use. It has a dark grey edge coloration because it is a
comparatively poor transmitter of light. Sounds like the OP has display uses
in mind.
John

"JohnR66" wrote

Sounds like the OP has display uses
in mind.
John

What I want to use it for is to cut long rectangular panels, say 4" x 3' to
imitate some of the Frank Lloyd Wright designs. These will either be
mounted by drilling mounting holes and attaching them to standoffs, or
holding them inside frames made of tubular steel. Either way, they will
have to be nice looking in the finished form, and free from cracks and
blemishes. They will be suspended, and will get no wear from contact. I
intend to make some pot racks that are takeoffs on Frank Lloyd Wright
designs.

Steve

According to Steve B :
How do professionals cut plexiglass? I am going to need to cut some, as
well as rout some of the edges to make them fit into slots.

Would I be better cutting these on a table saw with a special blade, or
using a router blade that has say a narrow width? Maybe even taking more
than one cut, and using a fence as a guide.

I'm going to Google on this, just wanted to know if anyone did this sort of
thing. It has to be a quality finished cut.

Both plexiglass and polycarbonate will cut quite cleanly with normal
woodworking tools (tablesaws with crosscut blades, routers etc). _If_
the plastic is thick enough - eg: at _least_ 1/4", and you move things
along at a proper speed and don't stop.

Thinner stuff should probably be scored and snapped.

As for "quality finished cut" - well, that depends on what you mean. If
you want optically decent, you'll have to polish it.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

"Steve B" wrote in message
news:jCi%f.411$QP4.159@fed1read12...

"JohnR66" wrote

Sounds like the OP has display uses
in mind.
John

What I want to use it for is to cut long rectangular panels, say 4" x 3'
to imitate some of the Frank Lloyd Wright designs. These will either be
mounted by drilling mounting holes and attaching them to standoffs, or
holding them inside frames made of tubular steel. Either way, they will
have to be nice looking in the finished form, and free from cracks and
blemishes. They will be suspended, and will get no wear from contact. I
intend to make some pot racks that are takeoffs on Frank Lloyd Wright
designs.

Steve

Please see my other post concerning proper tools. If drilling, you also need
special bits made of drilling hard plastics or risk chipping and fracturing
the work piece. If this is a one time project, finalize your design and have
the work done by a fabricator rather than spending $$ on the proper bits and
blades and the frustration of (and wasting time & materials) learning how to
work acrylic sheet.
Acrylic is a fun and challenging material to fabricate displays with if you
want to put forth the effort.

John