"Kathy" wrote in message
...

"Steve B" wrote in message
news:mW0%f.387$QP4.185@fed1read12...
How do professionals cut plexiglass? I am going to need to cut
some, as
well as rout some of the edges to make them fit into slots.

Would I be better cutting these on a table saw with a special
blade, or
using a router blade that has say a narrow width? Maybe even
taking more
than one cut, and using a fence as a guide.

I'm going to Google on this, just wanted to know if anyone did
this sort of
thing. It has to be a quality finished cut.

Steve


What application are you using it in?
You probably really mean Lexan, not plexiglass. Plexiglass is
crap compared to Lexan.
Use a roto-zip or your router with a carbide bit. High rpm's and
keep it moving. If you stop, it will melt and make a
nasty(melted) hard spot as well as load up your tool. You _can_
score it and break it if it is a sheet. Make sure you score it
well. Once you have it cut and sand the edges smooth, you can
probably get it to clear up on the edges if you run a BIC lighter
over the cut edge. It's a little tricky, don't dwell in any one
spot. If you need to drill any holes in it, sharpen your drill to
a severe point, kind of like a pencil. That will help avoid
"breakout" of the hole when you drill a through hole. Good Luck.


I disagree. It depends on the purpose. Lexan (polycarbonate) is a very tough
material, but it is 3x the price of plexi (acrylic). Polycarbonate (PC) is a
soft plastic and scratches much easier than acrylic. Running your
fingernails over PC will scratch it, but not acrylic. When used outdoors, PC
will haze due to UV and loose some of its strength. Acrylic is far more
robust in outdoor applications. Of course, PC can be purchased with
anti-abrasion and UV filter coatings making an expensive material even more
costly. Finally, PC looks like sh!t when using it for display case and
similar use. It has a dark grey edge coloration because it is a
comparatively poor transmitter of light. Sounds like the OP has display uses
in mind.
John