Just got the news that my 12-13 yr old Rheem heat pump compressor went
out. Recommendation is that the whole unit be replaced and they are
working up a quote. I would gretaly appreciate some help with a
couple of questions.

1. Does the whole outside unit need to be replaced? Why not just the
compressor. What are the risks of doing that?

2. If I replace the whole outside unit should some of the inside unit
be replaced too?

3. Do I need to stay with Rheem or can I go with another brand without
replacing the whole air handler unit? Recommendations on manufacturer?

4. Should the air handler also be replaced? I run the fan constantly
to keep the temperature even and make use of the filter to eliminate
pollen in the house.

5. What is a realistic cost? I have a single unit for ~3000 sq ft
house. The current heat pump is a double fan unit. (Not sure of the
model, I can provide if needed)

6. While going to this expense should I have any testing done on the
house to make sure I have the best system?

Additional details: First couple of compressors did not last very long
~1 -2 years, but the current one has been around for 9-10 years. I
went out to look at the unit when it stopped working since sometimes
pushing the reset button got it started again. When I went to hit the
restart button, it was gone, looks like it disintegrated. Fan runs but
compressor does not. I have always had an occasional thumping noise
when the compressor started. Technician never seemed to be too
concerned about it.

Appreciate the help and input.
Randy

In line....

wrote in message
oups.com...
Just got the news that my 12-13 yr old Rheem heat pump compressor went
out. Recommendation is that the whole unit be replaced and they are
working up a quote. I would gretaly appreciate some help with a
couple of questions.

1. Does the whole outside unit need to be replaced? Why not just the
compressor. What are the risks of doing that?


You can just have the compressor replaced, but why? Maybe a 1 year warranty
on the 'can' and 90 days on the labor. Besides, your 12 year old unit is
probably inefficient by today's standards.

2. If I replace the whole outside unit should some of the inside unit
be replaced too?


It should be to get the full benefit of the efficiency of the outdoor unit.

3. Do I need to stay with Rheem or can I go with another brand without
replacing the whole air handler unit? Recommendations on manufacturer?


It's best to stay with and ARI matched system. You can get 2 different 12
SEER parts by different manufacturers, but that won't mean you get 12 SEER.
I'd go with the unit your HVAC company suggests. They'll have to install it
and work on it if there are any waraanty issues. They may get a better
price on their brand than the pone they'd get at another supplier.


4. Should the air handler also be replaced? I run the fan constantly
to keep the temperature even and make use of the filter to eliminate
pollen in the house.

In my opinion, yes, the air handler should be replaced. I'd look at a good
media air filter like a Honeywell F150 series or a SpaceGuard.

5. What is a realistic cost? I have a single unit for ~3000 sq ft
house. The current heat pump is a double fan unit. (Not sure of the
model, I can provide if needed)


Cost? I could tell you what it would be around here if I had done a
complete heat loss on the house. Just because the unit may be a (insert
tonnage here), dosen't mean it's correct.

6. While going to this expense should I have any testing done on the
house to make sure I have the best system?

You could. I have offered it to my customers at an additional cost and one
took me up on it in 4 years. I installed a 2.5 ton system and had it
tested. It came out to be 2.52 tons.

Good luck.

HeatMan,

Thanks for the feedback. Looks like it makes sense to do a larger
project than I had originally hoped.

Thanks for the input on the filter, I also use a humidifier in the
winter that I am not sure necessarily works all that well with this
type of system. I think it is an Aprilaire that is basically a piece
of foam that spins inside the horizontal duct. Any recomendations in
this area?

Thanks
Randy

1. Does the whole outside unit need to be replaced? Why not just the
compressor. What are the risks of doing that?

the compressor is likely to be the most that is needed to be replaced, if
you truly need a compressor, the problem is finding someone competent to do
it:

someone who will flush the system with solvent
someone who will install a desicant filter/dryer inline to protect the new
compressor
someone who will pull a hard vacuum for a couple of hours to dry the system
out, so that the new compressor will last 10-20 years
someone whose vacuum pump has recently had it's oil changed, so that it is
capable of a low micron vacuum
someone who knows that weighing in the freon chearge is the only true way to
get the level precisely correct



2. If I replace the whole outside unit should some of the inside unit
be replaced too?

No



3. Do I need to stay with Rheem or can I go with another brand without
replacing the whole air handler unit? Recommendations on manufacturer?



any brand will do for an entire new unit, but unnecessary, replacement
compressor is likely the most you need, and a good chance you don't even
need that

your original compressor was likely made by Copeland
probably similar to this one:
Copeland ZR34K3-PFV-930
wholesale cost: $350


4. Should the air handler also be replaced? I run the fan constantly
to keep the temperature even and make use of the filter to eliminate
pollen in the house.

No


Additional details: First couple of compressors did not last very long
~1 -2 years, but the current one has been around for 9-10 years.


how long a compressor lasts in almost 100% dependent on whether the
technician does the things I mentioned above, your first two were installed
by idiots, most likely, the one that lasted 9-10 years, by a more competent
technician.

if the only problem is that it starts sometimes and sometimes doesn't, there
is a good chance that nothing more than an evac/recharge (using a scale) and
a new capacitor ($8) is all you really need

cowboy wrote:
1. Does the whole outside unit need to be replaced? Why not just the
compressor. What are the risks of doing that?


the compressor is likely to be the most that is needed to be replaced, if
you truly need a compressor, the problem is finding someone competent to do
it:

Could be. So you put in a new compressor and the reversing valve is bad,
what then?
The owner should have been made aware that there could be additional
problems that cannot be diagnosed until a running compressor is
installed, problems that could easily run the price up to more than the
cost of a new unit. This is the most likely reason, that and the age of
the unit, that the company recommended a new condensing unit.


someone who will flush the system with solvent

Get the **** outta here!

someone who will install a desicant filter/dryer inline to protect the new
compressor

Standard practice.

someone who will pull a hard vacuum for a couple of hours to dry the system
out, so that the new compressor will last 10-20 years
someone whose vacuum pump has recently had it's oil changed, so that it is
capable of a low micron vacuum
someone who knows that weighing in the freon chearge is the only true way to
get the level precisely correct

Incorrect. On a split system the factory charge is just supposed to be
close to correct. You'll find in the installation guide (that comes with
every new unit) instructions for setting the charge. On a package unit
there are no field installed dryers or line sets to take into account,
and thus usually no need to adjust the charge. If OTOH the you change
the blower speed from its factory setting you should adjust the
refrigerant charge.

2. If I replace the whole outside unit should some of the inside unit
be replaced too?


No

That depends upon whether the new outside unit is properly matched to
the inside components.


3. Do I need to stay with Rheem or can I go with another brand without
replacing the whole air handler unit? Recommendations on manufacturer?




any brand will do for an entire new unit, but unnecessary, replacement
compressor is likely the most you need, and a good chance you don't even
need that

Can I borrow your crystal ball sometime?


your original compressor was likely made by Copeland
probably similar to this one:
Copeland ZR34K3-PFV-930
wholesale cost: $350



4. Should the air handler also be replaced? I run the fan constantly
to keep the temperature even and make use of the filter to eliminate
pollen in the house.


No



Additional details: First couple of compressors did not last very long
~1 -2 years, but the current one has been around for 9-10 years.



how long a compressor lasts in almost 100% dependent on whether the
technician does the things I mentioned above, your first two were installed
by idiots, most likely, the one that lasted 9-10 years, by a more competent
technician.

if the only problem is that it starts sometimes and sometimes doesn't,

Where did you get this info?

there
is a good chance that nothing more than an evac/recharge (using a scale) and
a new capacitor ($8) is all you really need

An off chance, probably slim to none.

hvacrmedic

someone who will flush the system with solvent

Get the **** outta here!


see, this is what I am talking about when I rant in this group about the
incompetence of the typical HVAC tech (who has never had the first college
course in basic thermodynamics or organic chemistry)

when a compressor burns up, hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acid is formed, as
well as other corrosives, as well as the HCl and HF formed when water is
left in the system due to insufficient vacuuming.

H2O + CHF2Cl ---- HCl + HF + CO2 + chlorine and fluorine salts
water + R22 freon ----- hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acid

the only way to completely protect the new compressor from these acids is to
complete flush the system with an inert solvent such as Kwik-Solv, using a
pressurized flush gun

probably only 1 in 50 HVAC techs do this, because they have a financial
interest in you buying a new unit every 10 years or so.

a quality HVAC system can run 25 years just fine, if you don't let the
condenser get physical damage from kids etc.

most HVAC techs will never tell you this!

Hi cowboy, hope you are having a nice day

On 23-Jun-05 At About 10:07:18, cowboy wrote to All
Subject: Need Advice on Heat Pump Replacement

c From: "cowboy"

the only way to completely protect the new compressor from these
acids is
to
complete flush the system with an inert solvent such as Kwik-Solv,
using a pressurized flush gun

WRONG! Nothing goes into a closed refrigeration system except for
the proper oil and refrigerant, unless it is specifically approved by
the compressor manufacturer in writing.

c no, YOU are wrong

No you are wrong. NOTHING should go into a closed system but the proper
refrigerant and oil. on a burnout if it is bad enough you do drier changes to
clean it up. I don't know where you are getting this wrong info but you
really should talk to someone who knows what they are doing.


-= HvacTech2 =-


... I may have my faults, but being wrong ain't one of them.

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Hi cowboy, hope you are having a nice day

On 23-Jun-05 At About 12:05:11, cowboy wrote to All
Subject: Need Advice on Heat Pump Replacement

c From: "cowboy"

No you are wrong. NOTHING should go into a closed system but the
proper refrigerant and oil. on a burnout if it is bad enough you do
drier changes to clean it up. I don't know where you are getting this
wrong info but you really should talk to someone who knows what they
are doing.


c look, Beavis, the system is NOT closed while you are servicing it,
c you are putting in a new compressor, that is one end of the condenser
c open.

Wow, you don't even know the proper terminology!! LOL

c you should also be installing a new inline filter/dryer, so you would
c have the other end of the condenser open


c now you flush the isolated condenser, while it is open, replace the
c oil that was in the coil, and then install your new filter/dryer &
c compressor

As another tech said, there shouldn't be any oil in the Evap. but I guess
you didn't know that

c flushing the indoor coil or works exactly the same, and kwik-solv
c even has a wonderful pleasant scent to make your customer happy

as I stated before there should be NOTHING!!! added to the system.

c the fact that you "HVAC techs" seemed to have missed the first day of
c tech school is really scary for the homeowners out there.

You seem to have missed them all


c do you want them to have to replace a compressor every 2-4 years,
c just so you can make a boat payment?

Sorry to burst your bubble but I have installed units that are running now
for more than 25 years

c PLEASE do your customers a favor, buy a book, and learn what you are
c doing, it is the right thing to do!

You need some serious help. you have 3 or 4 techs all telling you the same
thing but you still insist on throwing out bad advice. and BTW. I have been a
tech for more than 30 years now. and as I said before, some of the systems I
put in more than 25 years ago are still running.

-= HvacTech2 =-


... URA Redneck if you think cow tipping should be an Olympic sport.

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Hi HeatMan, hope you are having a nice day

On 23-Jun-05 At About 11:44:58, HeatMan wrote to All
Subject: Need Advice on Heat Pump Replacement

H From: "HeatMan"

no, YOU are wrong

Kwik-Solv is a combnation of n-heptane and 2-propanol, it evaperates
with ZERO residue, it is one of the more volatile compounds
on earth, and of course you always follow the flush with a thorough
evacuation anyway (due to it's extreme volatility and extremely
low vapor pressure, the Kwik-Solv is gone within a minute of
starting the vacuum pump, and you are supposed
H to
be vacuuming for an hour or more, if you are conscientious )

when properly used as a power flush, it only contacts the inside of
the condenser or evaporator, it is approved by ALL major HVAC
manufacturers as
H a
flushing agent, because it has no reaction with copper, aluminum or
any other metal. -- it is even safe for paint, rubber and printed
circuit boards!


H Okay, even though I don't go to links posted on NG's, prove it. Post
H the links for the manufacturers that okay your Kwik-Solv stuff.

This guy is either a clown or a troll. I went to the link and this stuff is
nothing more than electrical contact cleaner. I sure hope he doesn't put this
in systems. I highly doubt he is even in the trade though as none of the
answers he gives makes any sense.


-= HvacTech2 =-


... But I thought YOU did the backups...

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wrote in message
oups.com...
HeatMan,

Thanks for the feedback. Looks like it makes sense to do a larger
project than I had originally hoped.

Thanks for the input on the filter, I also use a humidifier in the
winter that I am not sure necessarily works all that well with this
type of system. I think it is an Aprilaire that is basically a piece
of foam that spins inside the horizontal duct. Any recomendations in
this area?


Aprilair makes good humidifiers, but I'd stay away from the spinning foam
units. You can get all kinds of algae and bacterial growth in them unless
the unit has a purge timer on it to blow the crud out of the system. I
install the bypass humidifiers. The model 560 come to mind, but I think
that's the old number.

You've been smoking too much cow droppings....

In line.

"cowboy" wrote in message
...

someone who will flush the system with solvent

Get the **** outta here!


see, this is what I am talking about when I rant in this group about the
incompetence of the typical HVAC tech (who has never had the first college
course in basic thermodynamics or organic chemistry)

when a compressor burns up, hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acid is formed,
as
well as other corrosives, as well as the HCl and HF formed when water is
left in the system due to insufficient vacuuming.

H2O + CHF2Cl ---- HCl + HF + CO2 + chlorine and fluorine salts
water + R22 freon ----- hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acid


Right so far.

the only way to completely protect the new compressor from these acids is
to
complete flush the system with an inert solvent such as Kwik-Solv, using a
pressurized flush gun

WRONG! Nothing goes into a closed refrigeration system except for the
proper oil and refrigerant, unless it is specifically approved by the
compressor manufacturer in writing.

probably only 1 in 50 HVAC techs do this, because they have a financial
interest in you buying a new unit every 10 years or so.

Not always so.

a quality HVAC system can run 25 years just fine, if you don't let the
condenser get physical damage from kids etc.

True, but as the years wear on, the operating costs and energy cost will go
up.

most HVAC techs will never tell you this!

Most customers don't care. They want the AC working.

the only way to completely protect the new compressor from these acids is
to
complete flush the system with an inert solvent such as Kwik-Solv, using
a
pressurized flush gun

WRONG! Nothing goes into a closed refrigeration system except for the
proper oil and refrigerant, unless it is specifically approved by the
compressor manufacturer in writing.


no, YOU are wrong

Kwik-Solv is a combnation of n-heptane and 2-propanol, it evaperates with
ZERO residue, it is one of the more volatile compounds on earth, and of
course you always follow the flush with a thorough evacuation anyway (due
to it's extreme volatility and extremely low vapor pressure, the Kwik-Solv
is gone within a minute of starting the vacuum pump, and you are supposed to
be vacuuming for an hour or more, if you are conscientious )

when properly used as a power flush, it only contacts the inside of the
condenser or evaporator, it is approved by ALL major HVAC manufacturers as a
flushing agent, because it has no reaction with copper, aluminum or any
other metal. -- it is even safe for paint, rubber and printed circuit
boards!

it will, of course, remove all of the oil from the coil your flushing, which
is necessary to remove the acid, so always be sure to replace the oil that
was in each coil - and do NOT smoke around it, or you will land in the next
county.

you can learn about Kwik-Solv he
http://tinyurl.com/doeyx

PS - if you are this clueless about proper HVAC procedures such as flushing,
I suggest you purchase the following book, among others:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...l/-/1590702840

"cowboy" wrote in message
...
the only way to completely protect the new compressor from these acids
is
to
complete flush the system with an inert solvent such as Kwik-Solv,
using
a
pressurized flush gun

WRONG! Nothing goes into a closed refrigeration system except for the
proper oil and refrigerant, unless it is specifically approved by the
compressor manufacturer in writing.


no, YOU are wrong

Kwik-Solv is a combnation of n-heptane and 2-propanol, it evaperates with
ZERO residue, it is one of the more volatile compounds on earth, and of
course you always follow the flush with a thorough evacuation anyway (due
to it's extreme volatility and extremely low vapor pressure, the Kwik-Solv
is gone within a minute of starting the vacuum pump, and you are supposed
to
be vacuuming for an hour or more, if you are conscientious )

when properly used as a power flush, it only contacts the inside of the
condenser or evaporator, it is approved by ALL major HVAC manufacturers as
a
flushing agent, because it has no reaction with copper, aluminum or any
other metal. -- it is even safe for paint, rubber and printed circuit
boards!


Okay, even though I don't go to links posted on NG's, prove it. Post the
links for the manufacturers that okay your Kwik-Solv stuff.

If you can't or don't, we will all know that what you say IS cow droppings.

it will, of course, remove all of the oil from the coil your flushing,
which
is necessary to remove the acid, so always be sure to replace the oil that
was in each coil - and do NOT smoke around it, or you will land in the
next
county.

In a perfect world, should be no oil in a coil at any times. If there is
any, it should drain back to the compressor during shut down times.

you can learn about Kwik-Solv he
http://tinyurl.com/doeyx

Like I said, I don't click on links.

PS - if you are this clueless about proper HVAC procedures such as
flushing,
I suggest you purchase the following book, among others:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...l/-/1590702840

If you want me to look at a book, even on Amazon.com, send the title and/or
the ISBN number. I'll find it.

Trane and Lennox only approve Oil & Refrigerant. Trane approves Acid
Away, but NO other additives. Trane does not even allow UV dyes.
Where did you come up with ALL Major Manufacturers Approve Kwik-Solv???

Stretch

No you are wrong. NOTHING should go into a closed system but the proper
refrigerant and oil. on a burnout if it is bad enough you do drier changes
to
clean it up. I don't know where you are getting this wrong info but you
really should talk to someone who knows what they are doing.



look, Beavis, the system is NOT closed while you are servicing it, you are
putting in a new compressor, that is one end of the condenser open.

you should also be installing a new inline filter/dryer, so you would have
the other end of the condenser open

now you flush the isolated condenser, while it is open, replace the oil that
was in the coil, and then install your new filter/dryer & compressor

flushing the indoor coil or works exactly the same, and kwik-solv even has a
wonderful pleasant scent to make your customer happy

the fact that you "HVAC techs" seemed to have missed the first day of tech
school is really scary for the homeowners out there.

do you want them to have to replace a compressor every 2-4 years, just so
you can make a boat payment?

PLEASE do your customers a favor, buy a book, and learn what you are doing,
it is the right thing to do!
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...l/-/1590702840

if you can't afford the newest edition book, you can get an older edition,
for much less (basic HVAC 101 doesn't change that much, except for new
refrigerants and a couple other things, so a 5-10 year old book is fine for
theory and procedures)

it is a cheap alternative to that thermodynamics course you never had in
college, since you never graduated college!

"cowboy" wrote in message
...
No you are wrong. NOTHING should go into a closed system but the proper
refrigerant and oil. on a burnout if it is bad enough you do drier
changes to
clean it up. I don't know where you are getting this wrong info but you
really should talk to someone who knows what they are doing.



look, Beavis, the system is NOT closed while you are servicing it, you are
putting in a new compressor, that is one end of the condenser open.

you should also be installing a new inline filter/dryer, so you would have
the other end of the condenser open

now you flush the isolated condenser, while it is open, replace the oil
that was in the coil, and then install your new filter/dryer & compressor

flushing the indoor coil or works exactly the same, and kwik-solv even has
a wonderful pleasant scent to make your customer happy

the fact that you "HVAC techs" seemed to have missed the first day of tech
school is really scary for the homeowners out there.

do you want them to have to replace a compressor every 2-4 years, just so
you can make a boat payment?

PLEASE do your customers a favor, buy a book, and learn what you are
doing, it is the right thing to do!
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...l/-/1590702840

if you can't afford the newest edition book, you can get an older edition,
for much less (basic HVAC 101 doesn't change that much, except for new
refrigerants and a couple other things, so a 5-10 year old book is fine
for theory and procedures)

Another a-hole that thinks he knows what he is talking about....

*PLONK*

(into the kill-file bin you go)

Hi HeatMan, hope you are having a nice day

On 24-Jun-05 At About 06:20:13, HeatMan wrote to All
Subject: Need Advice on Heat Pump Replacement

H From: "HeatMan"


*PLONK*

(into the kill-file bin you go)


H Plonk him all you want, but be sure to keep an eye out for the bad
H information he likes to give out.

It's way beyond bad, this cowboy guy doesn't have a clue


-= HvacTech2 =-


... "I'm going to get a tatoo over my whole body of me but taller..."- s.w.

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++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++
spam protection measure, Please remove the 33 to send e-mail

"Dr. Hardcrab" wrote in message
news:0rKue.5918$dN.20@trnddc04...

"cowboy" wrote in message
...
No you are wrong. NOTHING should go into a closed system but the proper
refrigerant and oil. on a burnout if it is bad enough you do drier
changes to
clean it up. I don't know where you are getting this wrong info but you
really should talk to someone who knows what they are doing.



look, Beavis, the system is NOT closed while you are servicing it, you
are
putting in a new compressor, that is one end of the condenser open.

you should also be installing a new inline filter/dryer, so you would
have
the other end of the condenser open

now you flush the isolated condenser, while it is open, replace the oil
that was in the coil, and then install your new filter/dryer &
compressor

flushing the indoor coil or works exactly the same, and kwik-solv even
has
a wonderful pleasant scent to make your customer happy

the fact that you "HVAC techs" seemed to have missed the first day of
tech
school is really scary for the homeowners out there.

do you want them to have to replace a compressor every 2-4 years, just
so
you can make a boat payment?

PLEASE do your customers a favor, buy a book, and learn what you are
doing, it is the right thing to do!
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...l/-/1590702840

if you can't afford the newest edition book, you can get an older
edition,
for much less (basic HVAC 101 doesn't change that much, except for new
refrigerants and a couple other things, so a 5-10 year old book is fine
for theory and procedures)

Another a-hole that thinks he knows what he is talking about....

*PLONK*

(into the kill-file bin you go)



Plonk him all you want, but be sure to keep an eye out for the bad
information he likes to give out.

HeatMan wrote:
"Dr. Hardcrab" wrote in message
news:0rKue.5918$dN.20@trnddc04...

"cowboy" wrote in message
...

No you are wrong. NOTHING should go into a closed system but the proper
refrigerant and oil. on a burnout if it is bad enough you do drier
changes to
clean it up. I don't know where you are getting this wrong info but you
really should talk to someone who knows what they are doing.



look, Beavis, the system is NOT closed while you are servicing it, you

are

putting in a new compressor, that is one end of the condenser open.

you should also be installing a new inline filter/dryer, so you would

have

the other end of the condenser open

now you flush the isolated condenser, while it is open, replace the oil
that was in the coil, and then install your new filter/dryer &

compressor

flushing the indoor coil or works exactly the same, and kwik-solv even

has

a wonderful pleasant scent to make your customer happy

the fact that you "HVAC techs" seemed to have missed the first day of

tech

school is really scary for the homeowners out there.

do you want them to have to replace a compressor every 2-4 years, just

so

you can make a boat payment?

PLEASE do your customers a favor, buy a book, and learn what you are
doing, it is the right thing to do!
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...l/-/1590702840

if you can't afford the newest edition book, you can get an older

edition,

for much less (basic HVAC 101 doesn't change that much, except for new
refrigerants and a couple other things, so a 5-10 year old book is fine
for theory and procedures)

Another a-hole that thinks he knows what he is talking about....

*PLONK*

(into the kill-file bin you go)




Plonk him all you want, but be sure to keep an eye out for the bad
information he likes to give out.

I did an extensive Google search on burnout procedure. On the flushing
issue I found only two or three guys talking about flushing lines; one
was using propane, on n-heptane, and the other isopentane. The last
sounded very much like cowboy, same rant, almost word for word. Article
from the sci.engr.heat-vent-ac archives:
_____________________

The Best burnout cleanup procedure used to be to "power flush" everything
with R11 to get out all bad oil from the lines, etc, then install
new compressor. Today some
people use isopentane (same BP as R11, around 77F), but that
is extremely flammable so precautions must be taken. Other nonflammable
solvents are starting to emerge now.

Except me! Flushing the system is only good for high velocity
areas. I use the filter clean up method and never had a re-burn.
However, I do replace items such as oil seps and accumulators.

There are local technicians who dont believe in proper burnout
cleanup, and they use "new compressors" to clean up previous
burnouts.. The new compressors last 3 or 4 months and burnout
again.. I have seen this go on for 12 or 13 compressors, at which
time they declare the system was poorly designed and replace
the whole system at tens of thousands of $$$.. Good job security.
In the 20 or so compressors I have changed (R11 or isopentane flush),
none has since failed.

They're not Technicians George, those are ambitious laborers. They
make ordinary people like you and me look good. We need them!
_______________________

This is 9 or 10 years old. George Goble hails from Purdue, and the other
poster is Marc O'Brien.
Old George sure resembles cowboy's remarks.

I wonder how long ago it was that cowboy learned to flush systems? I was
taught the same 20 odd years ago. We used R-11. Those days are long gone
and cowboy should really get himself up to date on the destruction that
he's trying to do to our environment
There is a burnout kit that you can get for speedier results, it
consists of a canister type assembly in which an aluminized desiccant is
installed. A standard core can be installed and left in it permanently
when the job is done, or the canister can be taken back out of the
suction line.

hvacrmedic

cowboy posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.

the only way to completely protect the new compressor from these acids is
to
complete flush the system with an inert solvent such as Kwik-Solv, using
a
pressurized flush gun

WRONG! Nothing goes into a closed refrigeration system except for the
proper oil and refrigerant, unless it is specifically approved by the
compressor manufacturer in writing.


no, YOU are wrong

Kwik-Solv is a combnation of n-heptane and 2-propanol, it evaperates with
ZERO residue, it is one of the more volatile compounds on earth, and of
course you always follow the flush with a thorough evacuation anyway (due

I usually evacuate then wipe then flush. I've been doing it wrong?
to it's extreme volatility and extremely low vapor pressure, the Kwik-Solv
is gone within a minute of starting the vacuum pump, and you are supposed to
be vacuuming for an hour or more, if you are conscientious )

How clean do you want your house to be doing all this vacuuming?

when properly used as a power flush, it only contacts the inside of the
condenser or evaporator, it is approved by ALL major HVAC manufacturers as a
flushing agent, because it has no reaction with copper, aluminum or any
other metal. -- it is even safe for paint, rubber and printed circuit
boards!

Is is oft like Charmin?

it will, of course, remove all of the oil from the coil your flushing, which
is necessary to remove the acid, so always be sure to replace the oil that
was in each coil - and do NOT smoke around it, or you will land in the next
county.

you can learn about Kwik-Solv he
http://tinyurl.com/doeyx

PS - if you are this clueless about proper HVAC procedures such as flushing,
I suggest you purchase the following book, among others:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...l/-/1590702840

Hmmm, reading material while I be evacuating, wiping, flushing!




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Tekkie