Any one got any ideas as to how to identify the frequency for the lock/unlock function? And if I do, how easy is it to find another transmitter at that frequency which controls a simple on/off switch?

Model unidentifiable though I am informed that UK models of this make only used two frequencies, 315 and 433 Mhz

US models however used different frequencies. Curiously enough people say that the 315 and 433 Mhz fobs can be bought but the mysterious american ones can't. And that since the car was built in the mid 1990s, technology has moved so far forward (on a simple on/off switch??) that the technology is obsolete and new fobs are unavailable; and that I have to buy another receiver unit and matching fob at a cost of $600!

Does this sound plausible?

Have you contacted the car's manufacturer?

You understand that the frequency is the least of your worries. You need to
know the codes.

Amanda Riphnykhazova wrote:

Any one got any ideas as to how to identify the frequency for the lock/unlock function? And if I do, how easy is it to find another transmitter at that frequency which controls a simple on/off switch?

** Remote door transmitters for cars generally use a 24 bit, rolling code to signal the receiver. The code is unique to the particular vehicle.

Replacing both is your only option - maybe a wrecker can sell you a pair.


.... Phil

Amanda Riphnykhazova udtrykte præcist:
Any one got any ideas as to how to identify the frequency for the lock/unlock
function? And if I do, how easy is it to find another transmitter at that
frequency which controls a simple on/off switch?

Model unidentifiable though I am informed that UK models of this make only
used two frequencies, 315 and 433 Mhz

US models however used different frequencies. Curiously enough people say
that the 315 and 433 Mhz fobs can be bought but the mysterious american ones
can't. And that since the car was built in the mid 1990s, technology has
moved so far forward (on a simple on/off switch??) that the technology is
obsolete and new fobs are unavailable; and that I have to buy another
receiver unit and matching fob at a cost of $600!

Does this sound plausible?

Sounds plausible.

I lost one key to the (dealer-mounted?) immobilizer, and went to the
company in Magdeburg, who sold millions around 15 years ago, when
immobilizers got mandatory in Germany.
They had a little plastic bag with the remaining couple of hundred
rfid-chips. When they were gone, there were no more...

Leif

--
Husk kørelys bagpå, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.

wrote:


Get a spectrum analyzer, set it to sweep from about 170 to 500 MHz,

put fresh batteries in the remote, put the remote next to the spectrum

analyzer input, and start pushing buttons on the remote. You will see

a spike on the spectrum analyzer display when the remote is

transmitting. Narrow the sweep on the analyzer to find the exact

frequency.


** A radio scanner will do exact the same job.

Use the wide band FM setting to find the signal, narrow FM to get it within a few kHz.

Not that knowing the exact *frequency* is ANY use at all to the OP.

You colossal ******.



.... Phil

I suppose this thread looks a bit troll like if viewed as a ' the frequency isnt the important bit, it's the codes which matter' question.

But what I am being told is that the reason I cant simply order a new fob is because (as I said) technology has moved on and security companies arent doing things that way now. I accept that there werent just a few possibilities then and potentially millions now.

BTW I didn't understand the bit where I said that I have a lost fob and the perceived wisdom was "put fresh batteries in the bit you have lost, put that lost bit which you are trying to replace next to an Android phone with WiFi Analyser installed, and start pushing buttons on the bit which isnt there"

I understand your confusion. My car came with two fobs, and both still work.

It's difficult to believe that the car's manufacturer cannot provide you with
/some/ solution -- especially as they know that their failure to assist you
will mean you will never again buy one of their products. Of course, maybe
they're just plain stupid.

"Amanda Riphnykhazova" wrote in message
...
I suppose this thread looks a bit troll like if viewed as a ' the frequency
isnt the important bit, it's the codes which matter' question.

But what I am being told is that the reason I cant simply order a new fob is
because (as I said) technology has moved on and security companies arent
doing things that way now. I accept that there werent just a few
possibilities then and potentially millions now.

BTW I didn't understand the bit where I said that I have a lost fob and the
perceived wisdom was "put fresh batteries in the bit you have lost, put that
lost bit which you are trying to replace next to an Android phone with WiFi
Analyser installed, and start pushing buttons on the bit which isnt there"

++++++++++++++++++++++++++

What is really interesting is why you keep the make, model, and year a
secret. Did you steal the car?

Phil Allison wrote:
wrote:

Get a spectrum analyzer, set it to sweep from about 170 to 500 MHz,
put fresh batteries in the remote, put the remote next to the
spectrum analyzer input, and start pushing buttons on the remote.
You will see a spike on the spectrum analyzer display when the remote
is transmitting. Narrow the sweep on the analyzer to find the exact
frequency.

** A radio scanner will do exact the same job.

....as I said in the very next line of my post, which you snipped.

Not that knowing the exact *frequency* is ANY use at all to the OP.

I agree. That's the question the OP asked, though. I then went on to
suggest ways to solve the actual problem they seem to have.

You colossal ******.

I've dry-humped a statue before, but I've never tried wanking one. I
don't think it'd do much good, but I can try it if you insist.

Matt Roberds

Amanda Riphnykhazova wrote:
I suppose this thread looks a bit troll like

The name doesn't help, that's for sure.

if viewed as a 'the frequency isnt the important bit, it's the codes
which matter' question.

You have been given several suggestions, including:

- Ask the car manufacturer.
- Ask a junkyard/wrecker.
- Ask an aftermarket auto parts store.

I would also add "ask Remotes Unlimited, at
http://www.remotesunlimited.com/ ". They supply some of the fobs sold
at aftermarket auto parts stores, and claim to have a wide variety
available. I am not affiliated with this company in any way.

You have not disclosed which ones of these you have tried (if any), or
what the results were (if any). You do claim

But what I am being told is that the reason I cant simply order a new
fob is because (as I said) technology has moved on and security
companies arent doing things that way now.

which sounds like BS from someone who wasn't really interested in
helping. In my experience, this sounds like something from a car dealer
parts department - they either don't have the parts anymore (even though
it may be available in the world from some other vendor), or they feel
you're going to balk at their pricing for the parts on a 20-year-old
car.

As has been noted, maybe you're trying to break into someone else's car.
The fob suppliers have experience with that question too, and may be
giving you a canned answer if they suspect that is the case.

This is sci.electronics.repair. If you want to solve your problem,
you're in the right place. If you just want to whine about the cost or
unavailability of parts, we're not that good at being a hugbox. Try
Tumblr or something.

Matt Roberds

Well the manufacturer now says that the fob for my car's VIN is a 315MHz one or that all fobs they sold in the US are 315MHz frequency. Which is a bit odd as a parts supplier in the UK told me that he can get 315MHz and 433MHz ones but that the other (foreign market) ones are no longer being made.

RemotesUnlimited were unhelpful in the extreme, though she agreed that the frequency is irrelevant. When I asked about 315MHz systems, she said that all systems are different, some are 315, some are 325, some are 433MHz.

I couldnt figure out how a 315MHz system could also be these other frequencies and saw her answer as a snow job. When I tried asking her if it was possible to program a code into the system she gave me yet another snow job, though she did say that her answer might be less of a snow job if I could let her know who manufactured the system.

However, the local dealer says that for a few hundred bucks, they can program the code into the remote (or maybe they meant program both with a new matching code). They seemed quite sure about this and even quoted me a not particularly exorbitant price to do this if I can get the basic fob.

RemotesUnlimited started to get very limited indeed when one tries to ask about fobs from manufacturers which arent on their very limited list, and she said they dont do remotes for BMW, Audi, Honda, Jag, Rolls, and a whole list of other makes.

(BTW CONGRATS On pronouncing my name: Most cant figure it out)

"Amanda Riphnykhazova" wrote in message
...

CONGRATS On pronouncing my name: Most cant figure it out.

RIFF nick kah ZO va or RIFF nick KAHT zo va

Right?

RIFF nick kah ZO va or RIFF nick KAHT zo va



Right?

No, though I am not being particularly fair: The H has become mis-entered and should really be an A. The emphasis, if anywhere, is on the third syllable, depending how you count.

Amanda Riphnykhazova wrote:


However, the local dealer says that for a few hundred bucks, they can program the code into the remote (or maybe they meant program both with a new matching code). They seemed quite sure about this and even quoted me a not particularly exorbitant price to do this if I can get the basic fob.



** There is plenty of info on car remotes on the net - Google it.

Seems the common scheme is to make each remote with unique code built in - then have the vehicle's engine computer adopt that code when set to "learn" mode. This may involve turning on the ignition and pressing a few buttons inside the car.

However, one must first obtain a remote fob that is compatible with the car model in terms of radio frequency and code format.

I have come across both 24 and 40 bit rolling codes which allow billions of possible codes to be generated.


.... Phil

On 9/17/2014 1:05 AM, Leif Neland wrote:
Amanda Riphnykhazova udtrykte præcist:
Any one got any ideas as to how to identify the frequency for the
lock/unlock function? And if I do, how easy is it to find another
transmitter at that frequency which controls a simple on/off switch?

Model unidentifiable though I am informed that UK models of this make
only used two frequencies, 315 and 433 Mhz

US models however used different frequencies. Curiously enough
people say that the 315 and 433 Mhz fobs can be bought but the
mysterious american ones can't. And that since the car was built in
the mid 1990s, technology has moved so far forward (on a simple on/off
switch??) that the technology is obsolete and new fobs are
unavailable; and that I have to buy another receiver unit and
matching fob at a cost of $600!

Does this sound plausible?

Sounds plausible.

I lost one key to the (dealer-mounted?) immobilizer, and went to the
company in Magdeburg, who sold millions around 15 years ago, when
immobilizers got mandatory in Germany.
They had a little plastic bag with the remaining couple of hundred
rfid-chips. When they were gone, there were no more...

Leif


Just for fun, the cost to get the ignition key copied for my 17 year
Lexus is $60. Oddball type key.
Mikek

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This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

Amanda Riphnykhazova skrev:
I suppose this thread looks a bit troll like if viewed as a ' the frequency
isnt the important bit, it's the codes which matter' question.

But what I am being told is that the reason I cant simply order a new fob is
because (as I said) technology has moved on and security companies arent
doing things that way now. I accept that there werent just a few
possibilities then and potentially millions now.

What this probably means is that there were a lot of those fob's made
20 years ago, but there are not in stock anymore.

You are in the same situation as somebody looking for an oilpump for
1926 Oldsmobile Mariana. (Fictional car) They still make oilpumps, but
they don't fit a 1926 Oldsmobile.

BTW I didn't understand the bit where I said that I have a lost fob and the
perceived wisdom was "put fresh batteries in the bit you have lost, put that
lost bit which you are trying to replace next to an Android phone with WiFi
Analyser installed, and start pushing buttons on the bit which isnt there"

I think you gave the impression that you have lost one fob, but have
another.
In this case there often is an (obscure) way to learn the car to accept
a new key,when you have the old.
If you don't have any FOBs you are probably lost.

(Unlike newer cars, where bad guys can get the equipment to re-program
the car to accept new keys, and do it in few seconds, so the insurance
company can claim that you have been careless with your keys and refuse
payment

http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/1...w-in-3-minutes
)

If it's only for locking and unlocking the doors, and you can do that
from inside the car, you can just get an aftermarket remote lock kit,
like this one from ebay.com, for £22.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/191308687471

For little more, you can get complete immobilizer and alarm systems,
but perhaps you need to get somebody with the proper skills to mount it
:-)

Leif

--
Husk kørelys bagpå, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.

Leif Neland sendte dette med sin computer:


I lost one key to the (dealer-mounted?) immobilizer, and went to the company
in Magdeburg, who sold millions around 15 years ago, when immobilizers got
mandatory in Germany.
They had a little plastic bag with the remaining couple of hundred
rfid-chips. When they were gone, there were no more...

Btw, this dealer told that the rfid-chips are not (only?) being
registered in the receiver when they are learned, they are actually
being programmed by the receiver (which then is a sender...)

This rfid-chip I have to touch the receiver in order to deactivate the
immobilizer, it is not a remote car lock.

I tried to learn the receiver to accept a rfid-chip for injecting into
animals, but it didn't work.

It would have been cool to be able to deactivate the alarm just by
touching the reciever with my forearm ;-)

Leif

--
Husk kørelys bagpå, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.