Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default lost webpage - using weedwhacker string for "thread locking" - ie nylock


G'Day,

I recall seeing a webpage where there was some pictures of a threaded device
which used a piece of weedwhacker string pressed through a hole to serves
as a form of threadlock - similar to a nylock.

Now I need something like that in my design, and I don't recall the website.
Does anyone know the website page I'm describing?
What is the URL?

I'm making up some little machine jacks for settign a sinebar, and they tend
to move a littel when they are maneuvered into position, I'd prefer the thread
lock action as opposed to the bulk of a lock nut.

Thanks,
Des
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Default lost webpage - using weedwhacker string for "thread locking" - ie nylock


"des bromilow" wrote in message
.au...

G'Day,

I recall seeing a webpage where there was some pictures of a threaded
device which used a piece of weedwhacker string pressed through a hole to
serves as a form of threadlock - similar to a nylock.

Now I need something like that in my design, and I don't recall the
website.
Does anyone know the website page I'm describing?
What is the URL?

I'm making up some little machine jacks for settign a sinebar, and they
tend to move a littel when they are maneuvered into position, I'd prefer
the thread lock action as opposed to the bulk of a lock nut.

Thanks,
Des
remove the german anti-spam device if direct replying



I haven't seen that webpage, but what also might work is Vibra-Tite VC-3.
It is a thread locker you apply before assembly and let dry. It dries to a
soft plastic coating that lets you adjust the scew but keeps it from
vibrating loose.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMAKA=00250100
http://www.ndindustries.com/vc-3.php

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Default lost webpage - using weedwhacker string for "thread locking" - ie nylock

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 00:52:08 +0000 (UTC), des bromilow
wrote:


G'Day,

I recall seeing a webpage where there was some pictures of a threaded device
which used a piece of weedwhacker string pressed through a hole to serves
as a form of threadlock - similar to a nylock.

Now I need something like that in my design, and I don't recall the website.
Does anyone know the website page I'm describing?
What is the URL?

I'm making up some little machine jacks for settign a sinebar, and they tend
to move a littel when they are maneuvered into position, I'd prefer the thread
lock action as opposed to the bulk of a lock nut.

Thanks,
Des
remove the german anti-spam device if direct replying

==========
That sounds like the KFR Omnipost tool holders. They use
this method on the vertical adjustment screw and it seems to
work well on the few holders I have made.

see
http://www.krfcompany.com/overview.html
http://www.krfcompany.com/krfcatalog.pdf
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...ni-post-87046/

To see some pictures of this tool holder in the flesh click
on
http://mcduffee-associates.us/machining/QCTH.htm


-- Unka George (George McDuffee)
...............................
The past is a foreign country;
they do things differently there.
L. P. Hartley (1895-1972), British author.
The Go-Between, Prologue (1953).
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Default lost webpage - using weedwhacker string for "thread locking" - ie nylock

On 2010-08-21, des bromilow wrote:

G'Day,

I recall seeing a webpage where there was some pictures of a threaded device
which used a piece of weedwhacker string pressed through a hole to serves
as a form of threadlock - similar to a nylock.

Now I need something like that in my design, and I don't recall the website.
Does anyone know the website page I'm describing?
What is the URL?


I don't remember a website -- but I do remember posting here the
advice to another regular's question the suggestion that he try that
technique. I've seen commercial screws with such inserts, and when I've
needed a locking feature in existing screws, I've used the technique. I
simply would find some nylon string of a reasonable size for the screw
size, drill a hole perhaps between 1/2 and 3/4 the diameter of the
screw, shove in the nylon, and cut it off flush with the crest of the
threads. For really small nylon string -- try either fishing line
(leader perhaps) or Classical guitar strings.

For somewhat larger -- aside from weed whacker strings, you might
get some scraps from a place which restrings tennis rackets.

The other regular tried that, and it did what he needed.

Why do you need a web page to do this? Just do it. :-)

I'm making up some little machine jacks for settign a sinebar, and they tend
to move a littel when they are maneuvered into position, I'd prefer the thread
lock action as opposed to the bulk of a lock nut.


Setting a sinebar on jacks? How do you get the precision you
want? Normally, I use a stack of cheap Chinese gauge blocks -- though I
might try an adjustable parallel if I needed a variable which I would
set to a given dimension (usually using a micrometer). I certainly
would not use machine jacks.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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Default lost webpage - using weedwhacker string for "thread locking" - ie nylock

Hello DoN. Nichols,

Thanks!!! _ I was pretty sure the string went through the bolt (as opposed
to the nut) but wanted to be sure...
Why do I want the webpage? - I like to give credit for where I borrow ideas
- simple as that. When I write up this project, I'd like to be able to point
out this little tip and say where I got it from.. right now I can say it
came courtesy of the folks at RCM, but it'd be nice to say where else it
came from.

The machine jacks will be used to set a sine bar because until I have sets
of guage blocks, etc, machine jacks set to a vernier caliper will be better
than nothing.

Thanks,
Des


On 2010-08-21, des bromilow wrote:

G'Day,

I recall seeing a webpage where there was some pictures of a threaded
device which used a piece of weedwhacker string pressed through a
hole to serves as a form of threadlock - similar to a nylock.

Now I need something like that in my design, and I don't recall the
website.
Does anyone know the website page I'm describing?
What is the URL?

I don't remember a website -- but I do remember posting here the
advice to another regular's question the suggestion that he try that
technique. I've seen commercial screws with such inserts, and when
I've
needed a locking feature in existing screws, I've used the technique.
I
simply would find some nylon string of a reasonable size for the screw
size, drill a hole perhaps between 1/2 and 3/4 the diameter of the
screw, shove in the nylon, and cut it off flush with the crest of the
threads. For really small nylon string -- try either fishing line
(leader perhaps) or Classical guitar strings.
For somewhat larger -- aside from weed whacker strings, you might get
some scraps from a place which restrings tennis rackets.

The other regular tried that, and it did what he needed.

Why do you need a web page to do this? Just do it. :-)

I'm making up some little machine jacks for settign a sinebar, and
they tend to move a littel when they are maneuvered into position,
I'd prefer the thread lock action as opposed to the bulk of a lock
nut.

Setting a sinebar on jacks? How do you get the precision you
want? Normally, I use a stack of cheap Chinese gauge blocks -- though
I
might try an adjustable parallel if I needed a variable which I would
set to a given dimension (usually using a micrometer). I certainly
would not use machine jacks.
Enjoy,
DoN.





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Default lost webpage - using weedwhacker string for "thread locking" - ie nylock

On 2010-08-21, des bromilow wrote:
Hello DoN. Nichols,

Thanks!!! _ I was pretty sure the string went through the bolt (as opposed
to the nut) but wanted to be sure...


Normally -- you don't want the string all the way through. It
is too likely to fall out the other side. I would probably use a
minimum of three or four times the depth of the threads for larger
bolts, and if there is a lot of load on the bolt, you want it to engage
near the outer side of the nut so you don't weaken the bolt too much.

Why do I want the webpage? - I like to give credit for where I borrow ideas
- simple as that. When I write up this project, I'd like to be able to point
out this little tip and say where I got it from.. right now I can say it
came courtesy of the folks at RCM, but it'd be nice to say where else it
came from.


O.K.

Well ... *I* got it from screws illustrated in the PIC catalog
(they make precision gears and such) and seeing some used in aircraft
style construction (my employer was making flight simulators).

I passed it on in the newsgroup.

Others probably have as well.

But it seems to be semi common practice in certain fields.
(There were also aircraft anti-vibration nuts with a nylon washer
captive in the top of the nut under a rolled lip.)


The machine jacks will be used to set a sine bar because until I have sets
of guage blocks, etc, machine jacks set to a vernier caliper will be better
than nothing.


Hmm ... Chinese gauge block sets are cheap enough. Look at eBay
auction # 180546181693 ($40.00 buy-it-now for a 36-piece set, which
should be sufficient.)

The Chinese sets (which this may or may not be) are supposed to
be accurate within 50 u" (micro-inches -- 0.000050"). I would not use
my good B&S set of "Jo" blocks under sine bars, except perhaps for
precise gauging setups, not for machine setups.

A space block set may do just as well -- depending on how
precise you are trying to be.

At the moment, the search string which has the least clutter on
eBay for this is:

gauge block set* -hoses -manifold -"sight glass"

the last three '-' entires are to keep air conditioning manifolds out of
the search.

If you want a cheaper way to go -- to continue transferring
settings from calipers to the sine bar -- do another eBay search for:

adjustable parallels

Which can be adjusted to various sizes within their range, and at least
will have contact surfaces like a gauge block -- if not as smooth. A
machinist's jack does not have the flat level surface which a sine bar
expects to rest upon.

Look carefully at the photos in auction # 300457608090

You will see that each parallel is split in two along a diagonal
line, (and are held together by a dovetail between the two, not visible
from the plain view but marginally visible by the angled view at the
ends.

Each has a screw (or sometimes two, depending on size) to lock
it as the selected setting.

While these are made for transferring measurements, you still
have a loss of accuracy with every transfer.

And you at least want a micrometer to set them to, not a vernier
caliper if you want accuracy.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
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