I have a perceived need to make my own custom soldering iron tip for a
moderately high volume rework job. Are these typically made of copper
and then plated with something? Does anyone who's done this have any
tips (no pun intended) for me?

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
I have a perceived need to make my own custom soldering iron tip for a
moderately high volume rework job. Are these typically made of copper
and then plated with something? Does anyone who's done this have any
tips (no pun intended) for me?

Usually iron over copper these days, I think. However, that said, today I
received a new bit that I had ordered for my Antex temperature controlled
station's iron, and the plating was very bright, like chrome, so I'm not
sure just what the composition of that one is. Maybe they've had to change
to something a bit more durable to cope with the more aggressive flux cores
in crappy lead-free solder ...

Also, instead of the normal Antex split skirt and spring collar, which have
a tendency to seize unless you turn them daily, this one has a solid skirt,
and is retained on the shaft by a thin sheet of metal rolled into a tube,
and inserted inside the skirt.

I have to say though, that it did tin very nicely. Be interesting to see how
long it lasts with the iron idling away all day, as it does.

Arfa

In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:
Also, instead of the normal Antex split skirt and spring collar, which
have a tendency to seize unless you turn them daily, this one has a
solid skirt, and is retained on the shaft by a thin sheet of metal
rolled into a tube, and inserted inside the skirt.

Yes - I noticed that. Wonder if it will be easier to remove - I destroyed
an element once removing the old type. (Through carelessness, it must be
said)

I have to say though, that it did tin very nicely. Be interesting to see
how long it lasts with the iron idling away all day, as it does.

Nice to see another Antex fan. Still my favourite iron. Bought my first
one near 50 years ago - a delight after my Henley Solon.

--
*Rehab is for quitters.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Smitty Two wrote:

I have a perceived need to make my own custom soldering iron tip for a
moderately high volume rework job. Are these typically made of copper
and then plated with something? Does anyone who's done this have any
tips (no pun intended) for me?


I made about a dozen tips for the old Weller SP-23 irons. I used
scrap brass rods from the base's welding shop. I threaded the end, then
cut the tip off with a large pair of diagonal cutters. Then I filed it
to the proper shape. Finally, I used paste flux to tin them. That was
in 1973. I just used up the last tip a couple years ago.


--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense!

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:
Also, instead of the normal Antex split skirt and spring collar, which
have a tendency to seize unless you turn them daily, this one has a
solid skirt, and is retained on the shaft by a thin sheet of metal
rolled into a tube, and inserted inside the skirt.

Yes - I noticed that. Wonder if it will be easier to remove - I destroyed
an element once removing the old type. (Through carelessness, it must be
said)

I have to say though, that it did tin very nicely. Be interesting to see
how long it lasts with the iron idling away all day, as it does.

Nice to see another Antex fan. Still my favourite iron. Bought my first
one near 50 years ago - a delight after my Henley Solon.

--
*Rehab is for quitters.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


I did the same a few month's back with this actual iron. I had left the bit
for a while without turning it, and it seized solid. I tried every way I
could think of to release it, but it was totally jammed, and I eventually
destroyed the iron in my attempts to free it. The new iron that I got for it
came with a 'traditional' split skirt bit on it, that was definitely the
standard iron over copper type that Antex have used for some years now. It
hasn't lasted long, with the tip rapidly having been eaten away. I am still
using the same Multicore solder product (leaded) that I always have, and I
don't run the iron too hot at around 370 deg C for most work. The
replacement bit that I got today was ordered as being for this specific iron
series and was from Farnell, so I'm assuming that it is a genuine Antex
part. If so, this change to solid skirt and metal tube inside, must be
recent, and across the range.

As one long term Antex user (my first little CN15 was about 40 years ago I
reckon) to another, do I recall their bits having a very shiny chrome or
nickel chrome plating some years back ? I clearly remember the original bits
being solid unplated copper. How did they last so long without any
protective plating for that soft copper ? I know we used to get every last
bit of life out of them by filing them until they were just a stump, but
never-the-less, they *were* intrinsically long-lived ...

Arfa

My guess is that your time would be better spent by adapting a part that's
already available, if possible.
Another option might be hot air, depending upon what the specific task is.

Caswell and other companies have lots of products for small-scale plating
jobs, but exposure to soldering temperatures and fluxes aren't primarily
intended, as many plating materials are for corrosion resistance or
appearance.

Solid copper is fairly easily worked (cut, bend, trim) but has a fairly
short life when used at higher temps for soldering. The copper is actually
dissolved/absorbed into ordinary solder alloys, and fluxes further erode it.
Plating with a nickel alloy, which is the final plating on many
commercially-made tips, will essentially eliminate the dissolving, and
protect the copper from fluxes, while providing a surface that's easily
tinned.

Copper is easily brazed (silver soldered) to other parts to fabricate more
complex assemblies. The braze temp far exceeds any working temps needed for
soldering.

Some leaded steel alloys are suitable for soldering tips, but require fairly
vigorous cleaning/removal of fluxes, and care must be taken to avoid
overheating or the steel won't tin properly.

Many of the presently made soldering and desoldering tips are a copper core
which is iron coated, then plated with copper and then a nickel alloy.

The problem you face with making your own custom tips is tip life, and the
project R&D could be lengthy if yoy try to determine which type of tip
proves to be the most reliable.
You will most likely be faced with fabricating a quantity of "anything that
works", as the reliability of them will likely be shorter than
commercially-made soldering tips.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
I have a perceived need to make my own custom soldering iron tip for a
moderately high volume rework job. Are these typically made of copper
and then plated with something? Does anyone who's done this have any
tips (no pun intended) for me?

In article ,
"Wild_Bill" wrote:

My guess is that your time would be better spent by adapting a part that's
already available, if possible.
Another option might be hot air, depending upon what the specific task is.

Caswell and other companies have lots of products for small-scale plating
jobs, but exposure to soldering temperatures and fluxes aren't primarily
intended, as many plating materials are for corrosion resistance or
appearance.

Solid copper is fairly easily worked (cut, bend, trim) but has a fairly
short life when used at higher temps for soldering. The copper is actually
dissolved/absorbed into ordinary solder alloys, and fluxes further erode it.
Plating with a nickel alloy, which is the final plating on many
commercially-made tips, will essentially eliminate the dissolving, and
protect the copper from fluxes, while providing a surface that's easily
tinned.

Copper is easily brazed (silver soldered) to other parts to fabricate more
complex assemblies. The braze temp far exceeds any working temps needed for
soldering.

Some leaded steel alloys are suitable for soldering tips, but require fairly
vigorous cleaning/removal of fluxes, and care must be taken to avoid
overheating or the steel won't tin properly.

Many of the presently made soldering and desoldering tips are a copper core
which is iron coated, then plated with copper and then a nickel alloy.

The problem you face with making your own custom tips is tip life, and the
project R&D could be lengthy if yoy try to determine which type of tip
proves to be the most reliable.
You will most likely be faced with fabricating a quantity of "anything that
works", as the reliability of them will likely be shorter than
commercially-made soldering tips.


Thanks for the deets. The actual fabrication of the tip will be
relatively painless since we have a machine shop in-house. And, I think
the volume of work to be done is such that a reasonably well-made tip
will last the length of the task. If not, I'd think it wouldn't require
more than 3 copies.

Do you see any significant advantage to copper--iron--copper--nickel
over just copper--nickel? Do you know how thick the nickel plating
should be?

Are these typically made of copper
and then plated with something? Does anyone who's done this have any
tips (no pun intended) for me?

Smitty

We routinely sent out our tips to be silver soldered. Never any
probems. We did this in the 60s and I am sure they still do them this
way. After we got a good mechanical technician he silver soldered
them. No big deal. The silver solder was the type used in
refrigeration tubing soldering.

Bob AZ

Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:
Also, instead of the normal Antex split skirt and spring collar, which
have a tendency to seize unless you turn them daily, this one has a
solid skirt, and is retained on the shaft by a thin sheet of metal
rolled into a tube, and inserted inside the skirt.

Yes - I noticed that. Wonder if it will be easier to remove - I destroyed
an element once removing the old type. (Through carelessness, it must be
said)

I have to say though, that it did tin very nicely. Be interesting to see
how long it lasts with the iron idling away all day, as it does.

Nice to see another Antex fan. Still my favourite iron. Bought my first
one near 50 years ago - a delight after my Henley Solon.

--
*Rehab is for quitters.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Antex? do they still use mains powered heaters?
I gave up with them when CMOS LSI first came in and mains leakage
current/voltage destroyed a couple of expensive ICs while I was soldering
them. There I was using proper grounded disipative wrist strap and all.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

I don't know the specifics involved in tip fabrication, only what I've
learned from tip manufacturers' information regarding their product
reliability and durability.

I'm not sure why iron plating became common with soldering tips. I'm fairly
certain it's beneficial to durability, possibly because copper is so soft.
Iron and steel aren't as good at heat condction as copper is, so the reasons
are for other characteristics.

As for the nickel plating, again, I don't know about the specifics, but
there are two processes IIRC, one being electroplating, and the other being
electroless.

You're at a good advantage by having metalworking capabilities in-house. I
have metalworking machines, and it's often difficult to imagine alternatives
for others.

Another possibility for tips could be some alloys of stainless steel. Some
300 and 400 series are relatively easy to machine (avoid the work-hardening
alloys), although I'm not sure which alloys are easily tinned.
Stainless alloys will most likely require a highly active flux to tin them,
but after they're tinned that flux can be removed.
Stainless can erode like other metals, particularly at elevated temps, as
can be seen on the stainless covers of soldering iron heaters, but the
heater sections are typically hotter than the tip's working temp.
Fluxes for stainless are available from Harris (StaBrite product line) and
other sources.

I should've mentioned that I don't know much about the newer lead-free
solders or how they work (or don't work) with conventional tip plating
materials. I don't do servicing work anymore, and I still use lead alloy
solders for everything.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article ,

Thanks for the deets. The actual fabrication of the tip will be
relatively painless since we have a machine shop in-house. And, I think
the volume of work to be done is such that a reasonably well-made tip
will last the length of the task. If not, I'd think it wouldn't require
more than 3 copies.

Do you see any significant advantage to copper--iron--copper--nickel
over just copper--nickel? Do you know how thick the nickel plating
should be?

In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:
As one long term Antex user (my first little CN15 was about 40 years ago
I reckon) to another, do I recall their bits having a very shiny chrome
or nickel chrome plating some years back ?

Yes.

I clearly remember the original bits
being solid unplated copper.

Ah - not so my first one. You must have started earlier than me. Shouldn't
you be relaxing in an arm chair with pipe and slippers by now? ;-)

How did they last so long without any protective plating for that soft
copper ? I know we used to get every last bit of life out of them by
filing them until they were just a stump, but never-the-less, they
*were* intrinsically long-lived ...

'Savebit' solder? Or perhaps the copper was an alloy.

--
*Frankly, scallop, I don't give a clam

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
Nice to see another Antex fan. Still my favourite iron. Bought my first
one near 50 years ago - a delight after my Henley Solon.

Antex? do they still use mains powered heaters?

They do a variety of mains and low voltage.

I gave up with them when CMOS LSI first came in and mains leakage
current/voltage destroyed a couple of expensive ICs while I was soldering
them. There I was using proper grounded disipative wrist strap and all.

That's strange since they made a point about their low leakage. And the
tip is earthed on a mains one. Perhaps the earth you were using was
floating well above ground?

--
*To be intoxicated is to feel sophisticated, but not be able to say it.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
Nice to see another Antex fan. Still my favourite iron. Bought my
first
one near 50 years ago - a delight after my Henley Solon.

Antex? do they still use mains powered heaters?

They do a variety of mains and low voltage.

I gave up with them when CMOS LSI first came in and mains leakage
current/voltage destroyed a couple of expensive ICs while I was
soldering
them. There I was using proper grounded disipative wrist strap and all.

That's strange since they made a point about their low leakage. And the
tip is earthed on a mains one. Perhaps the earth you were using was
floating well above ground?

--
*To be intoxicated is to feel sophisticated, but not be able to say it.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

It was a long time ago, I've always used 24V Weller Magnastat since.
ISTR the Antex tip fitted over a ceramic shaft containing the mains carrying
heater. No observable leakage when cold but at operating temperature it
leaked like a sieve. One dramatic confiemation test of it, in a totally dark
room, you could sometimes see a discharge arc to a grounded metal plate held
very close to the tip.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:
Also, instead of the normal Antex split skirt and spring collar, which
have a tendency to seize unless you turn them daily, this one has a
solid skirt, and is retained on the shaft by a thin sheet of metal
rolled into a tube, and inserted inside the skirt.

Yes - I noticed that. Wonder if it will be easier to remove - I destroyed
an element once removing the old type. (Through carelessness, it must be
said)

I have to say though, that it did tin very nicely. Be interesting to
see
how long it lasts with the iron idling away all day, as it does.

Nice to see another Antex fan. Still my favourite iron. Bought my first
one near 50 years ago - a delight after my Henley Solon.

--
*Rehab is for quitters.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Antex? do they still use mains powered heaters?
I gave up with them when CMOS LSI first came in and mains leakage
current/voltage destroyed a couple of expensive ICs while I was soldering
them. There I was using proper grounded disipative wrist strap and all.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



I remember owning a mains CN15 that had a pink ceramic element shaft, and
hence a fully floating tip, that was specifically sold as being leakage
free. And Dave, I reckon you must have experienced the Antex unplated bits -
I'm not that old ! (although I probably wasn't much more than a kid when I
owned my first Antex). In fact thinking about it, the mains fixed temp one
that I keep just for very fine work, has a needle tip that I did not fit all
that long ago, which is unplated copper.

We used to use Savbit solder way back, when I was an apprentice. We used
Adcola irons in that workshop (about two points to the left of heated pokers
....!) and they had solid copper or copper alloy tips. As I recall, Savbit
had a small amount of copper as part of the basic tin-lead alloy, and was
very good at preserving tips. However, I have not used that stuff for
years - if it even still exists. The leaded solder that I use, and have done
for a very long time now, is a Multicomp product. Perhaps with all of this
lead free crap that we have to put up with now, the tip manufacturers have
done subtle things with the plating to try to make it more compatible with
the dreadful stuff and its aggressive flux cores, and my leaded solder no
longer suits. If you recall, we had a discussion about tip life a few months
back. I have stopped using my trusty old Weller Magnastat station, purely
because the tips were not lasting five minutes on a 14 hour per day iron,
and they were getting pretty expensive. I used to keep my Pace vacuum
desolder station powered all the time as well, but same story. With tips at
over seven quid a throw now, it gets turned off between jobs that need it
....

Arfa

Arfa Daily wrote in message
...

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:
Also, instead of the normal Antex split skirt and spring collar,
which
have a tendency to seize unless you turn them daily, this one has a
solid skirt, and is retained on the shaft by a thin sheet of metal
rolled into a tube, and inserted inside the skirt.

Yes - I noticed that. Wonder if it will be easier to remove - I
destroyed
an element once removing the old type. (Through carelessness, it must
be
said)

I have to say though, that it did tin very nicely. Be interesting to
see
how long it lasts with the iron idling away all day, as it does.

Nice to see another Antex fan. Still my favourite iron. Bought my first
one near 50 years ago - a delight after my Henley Solon.

--
*Rehab is for quitters.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Antex? do they still use mains powered heaters?
I gave up with them when CMOS LSI first came in and mains leakage
current/voltage destroyed a couple of expensive ICs while I was
soldering
them. There I was using proper grounded disipative wrist strap and all.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



I remember owning a mains CN15 that had a pink ceramic element shaft, and
hence a fully floating tip, that was specifically sold as being leakage
free. And Dave, I reckon you must have experienced the Antex unplated
bits -
I'm not that old ! (although I probably wasn't much more than a kid when I
owned my first Antex). In fact thinking about it, the mains fixed temp one
that I keep just for very fine work, has a needle tip that I did not fit
all
that long ago, which is unplated copper.

We used to use Savbit solder way back, when I was an apprentice. We used
Adcola irons in that workshop (about two points to the left of heated
pokers
...!) and they had solid copper or copper alloy tips. As I recall, Savbit
had a small amount of copper as part of the basic tin-lead alloy, and was
very good at preserving tips. However, I have not used that stuff for
years - if it even still exists. The leaded solder that I use, and have
done
for a very long time now, is a Multicomp product. Perhaps with all of this
lead free crap that we have to put up with now, the tip manufacturers have
done subtle things with the plating to try to make it more compatible with
the dreadful stuff and its aggressive flux cores, and my leaded solder no
longer suits. If you recall, we had a discussion about tip life a few
months
back. I have stopped using my trusty old Weller Magnastat station, purely
because the tips were not lasting five minutes on a 14 hour per day iron,
and they were getting pretty expensive. I used to keep my Pace vacuum
desolder station powered all the time as well, but same story. With tips
at
over seven quid a throw now, it gets turned off between jobs that need it
...

Arfa



The irony was that iron was bought precisely for low leakage and soldering
these then new-fangled LSI lumps. Presumably tin-oxide or lead contimination
of the ceramic.

About the same time I got talking to someone who repaired/reconditioned and
re-sold white goods. Apparently many of the electric cooker heater elements
on old cookers progressively got more and more leaky so commonly failing
insulation test, even when cold. But I've not heard of that since, maybe
just one make or a bygone era.
I think there was a recent sub-thread here about some valve/tube glass going
conductive when heated.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Arfa Daily wrote in message
...

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:
Also, instead of the normal Antex split skirt and spring collar,
which
have a tendency to seize unless you turn them daily, this one has a
solid skirt, and is retained on the shaft by a thin sheet of metal
rolled into a tube, and inserted inside the skirt.

Yes - I noticed that. Wonder if it will be easier to remove - I
destroyed
an element once removing the old type. (Through carelessness, it must
be
said)

I have to say though, that it did tin very nicely. Be interesting to
see
how long it lasts with the iron idling away all day, as it does.

Nice to see another Antex fan. Still my favourite iron. Bought my
first
one near 50 years ago - a delight after my Henley Solon.

--
*Rehab is for quitters.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Antex? do they still use mains powered heaters?
I gave up with them when CMOS LSI first came in and mains leakage
current/voltage destroyed a couple of expensive ICs while I was
soldering
them. There I was using proper grounded disipative wrist strap and all.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



I remember owning a mains CN15 that had a pink ceramic element shaft, and
hence a fully floating tip, that was specifically sold as being leakage
free. And Dave, I reckon you must have experienced the Antex unplated
bits -
I'm not that old ! (although I probably wasn't much more than a kid when
I
owned my first Antex). In fact thinking about it, the mains fixed temp
one
that I keep just for very fine work, has a needle tip that I did not fit
all
that long ago, which is unplated copper.

We used to use Savbit solder way back, when I was an apprentice. We used
Adcola irons in that workshop (about two points to the left of heated
pokers
...!) and they had solid copper or copper alloy tips. As I recall, Savbit
had a small amount of copper as part of the basic tin-lead alloy, and was
very good at preserving tips. However, I have not used that stuff for
years - if it even still exists. The leaded solder that I use, and have
done
for a very long time now, is a Multicomp product. Perhaps with all of
this
lead free crap that we have to put up with now, the tip manufacturers
have
done subtle things with the plating to try to make it more compatible
with
the dreadful stuff and its aggressive flux cores, and my leaded solder no
longer suits. If you recall, we had a discussion about tip life a few
months
back. I have stopped using my trusty old Weller Magnastat station, purely
because the tips were not lasting five minutes on a 14 hour per day iron,
and they were getting pretty expensive. I used to keep my Pace vacuum
desolder station powered all the time as well, but same story. With tips
at
over seven quid a throw now, it gets turned off between jobs that need it
...

Arfa



The irony was that iron was bought precisely for low leakage and soldering
these then new-fangled LSI lumps. Presumably tin-oxide or lead
contimination
of the ceramic.

About the same time I got talking to someone who repaired/reconditioned
and
re-sold white goods. Apparently many of the electric cooker heater
elements
on old cookers progressively got more and more leaky so commonly failing
insulation test, even when cold. But I've not heard of that since, maybe
just one make or a bygone era.
I think there was a recent sub-thread here about some valve/tube glass
going
conductive when heated.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/




Yes, indeed there was. I was involved in that one. I didn't realise before
that discussion, that there was so many different types of glass, or that
any could become conductive when heated. Always lots to learn ...

Arfa

Arfa Daily wrote in message
...

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Arfa Daily wrote in message
...

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:



Yes, indeed there was. I was involved in that one. I didn't realise before
that discussion, that there was so many different types of glass, or that
any could become conductive when heated. Always lots to learn ...

Arfa



It shouldn't be too surprising. There is always a quoted caveat with the use
of vitreous (ie glass coated ) resistors - don't position so they can touch
chassis as they can go conductive at high, but still in-service, temp. I
can't believe the green or grey colouration is added specifically to make
the glass conductive.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

N_Cook wrote in message
...
Arfa Daily wrote in message
...

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Arfa Daily wrote in message
...

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:



Yes, indeed there was. I was involved in that one. I didn't realise
before
that discussion, that there was so many different types of glass, or
that
any could become conductive when heated. Always lots to learn ...

Arfa



It shouldn't be too surprising. There is always a quoted caveat with the
use
of vitreous (ie glass coated ) resistors - don't position so they can
touch
chassis as they can go conductive at high, but still in-service, temp. I
can't believe the green or grey colouration is added specifically to make
the glass conductive.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



I cannot find anything out there on the mechanism.
So my theory.
For vitreous resistors based on metal oxide, rather than wire-wound.,
overlain with glass. With continued/repeated use at very elevated
temperatures perhaps MO ions can migrate outwards through the glass.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
Nice to see another Antex fan. Still my favourite iron. Bought my first
one near 50 years ago - a delight after my Henley Solon.

Oh I don't know, I quite liked my Henley. I *much* prefer my Weller W60D
to the various Antex irons I have.
--
Clint Sharp

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
That's strange since they made a point about their low leakage.
Latterly, they made the point because it needed making
And the
tip is earthed on a mains one. Perhaps the earth you were using was
floating well above ground?

They used to make ceramic elements designed for CMOS work because of the
leakage from their elements.
--
Clint Sharp

"Bob AZ" wrote in message
...
Are these typically made of copper
and then plated with something? Does anyone who's done this have any
tips (no pun intended) for me?

Smitty

We routinely sent out our tips to be silver soldered. Never any
probems. We did this in the 60s and I am sure they still do them this
way. After we got a good mechanical technician he silver soldered
them. No big deal. The silver solder was the type used in
refrigeration tubing soldering.

Bob AZ

Bob... I have been coating mine with silver solder for many years. They last
a LONG time. WW

WW wrote in message
...

"Bob AZ" wrote in message
...
Are these typically made of copper
and then plated with something? Does anyone who's done this have any
tips (no pun intended) for me?

Smitty

We routinely sent out our tips to be silver soldered. Never any
probems. We did this in the 60s and I am sure they still do them this
way. After we got a good mechanical technician he silver soldered
them. No big deal. The silver solder was the type used in
refrigeration tubing soldering.

Bob AZ

Bob... I have been coating mine with silver solder for many years. They
last
a LONG time. WW




How can a "coat" of silver solder work? it will admix/dilute with the next
loading of SnPb solder let alone Pb-Free

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

On 28 Sep, 09:10, "N_Cook" wrote:
WW wrote in message

...





"Bob AZ" wrote in message
....
Are these typically made of copper
and then plated with something? Does anyone who's done this have any
tips (no pun intended) for me?

Smitty

We routinely sent out our tips to be silver soldered. Never any
probems. We did this in the 60s and I am sure they still do them this
way. After we got a good mechanical technician he silver soldered
them. No big deal. The silver solder was the type used in
refrigeration tubing soldering.

Bob *AZ

Bob... I have been coating mine with silver solder for many years. They
last
a LONG time. WW

How can a "coat" of silver solder work? it will admix/dilute with the next
loading of SnPb solder let alone Pb-Free

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list onhttp://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

The term "silver solder" has two meanings: Traditionally, and what Bob
means, it is a high temperature (450 deg C) alloy used with a
blowtorch for brazing. But it has recently been introduced for a low-
temperature lead solder replacement, causing frequent confusion.

Chris (whose first soldering iron was a Remploy. It may still be
around somewhere.)

wrote in message
...
On 28 Sep, 09:10, "N_Cook" wrote:
WW wrote in message

...





"Bob AZ" wrote in message
...
Are these typically made of copper
and then plated with something? Does anyone who's done this have any
tips (no pun intended) for me?

Smitty

We routinely sent out our tips to be silver soldered. Never any
probems. We did this in the 60s and I am sure they still do them this
way. After we got a good mechanical technician he silver soldered
them. No big deal. The silver solder was the type used in
refrigeration tubing soldering.

Bob AZ

Bob... I have been coating mine with silver solder for many years. They
last
a LONG time. WW

How can a "coat" of silver solder work? it will admix/dilute with the next
loading of SnPb solder let alone Pb-Free

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list
onhttp://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

The term "silver solder" has two meanings: Traditionally, and what Bob
means, it is a high temperature (450 deg C) alloy used with a
blowtorch for brazing. But it has recently been introduced for a low-
temperature lead solder replacement, causing frequent confusion.

Chris (whose first soldering iron was a Remploy. It may still be
around somewhere.)




But 450 deg C is not that much higher than electronics soldering iron
temperatures of 370 to 420 deg C, I take it that is enough margin under
brazing rod type silver solder, in practise.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

"N_Cook" wrote in
:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
Nice to see another Antex fan. Still my favourite iron. Bought my
first
one near 50 years ago - a delight after my Henley Solon.

Antex? do they still use mains powered heaters?

They do a variety of mains and low voltage.

I gave up with them when CMOS LSI first came in and mains leakage
current/voltage destroyed a couple of expensive ICs while I was
soldering
them. There I was using proper grounded disipative wrist strap and
all.

That's strange since they made a point about their low leakage. And
the tip is earthed on a mains one. Perhaps the earth you were using
was floating well above ground?

--
*To be intoxicated is to feel sophisticated, but not be able to say
it.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

It was a long time ago, I've always used 24V Weller Magnastat since.
ISTR the Antex tip fitted over a ceramic shaft containing the mains
carrying heater. No observable leakage when cold but at operating
temperature it leaked like a sieve. One dramatic confiemation test of
it, in a totally dark room, you could sometimes see a discharge arc to
a grounded metal plate held very close to the tip.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/




My 15W Antex(both of them) has a metal tube with the ceramic/nichrome wire
element inside it,the end is open,you can see it.It's grounded.

I used to file down the non-clad copper tips for use on SMD ICs,it seems
all the tips I have now are the ironclad ones that you can't file down.
I gotta find some of the non-clad tips.

Do they currently make Antex tips small enough for SMD work?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
..com

"N_Cook" wrote in
:

wrote in message
.
.. On 28 Sep, 09:10, "N_Cook" wrote:
WW wrote in message

...





"Bob AZ" wrote in message

m...
Are these typically made of copper
and then plated with something? Does anyone who's done this have
any tips (no pun intended) for me?

Smitty

We routinely sent out our tips to be silver soldered. Never any
probems. We did this in the 60s and I am sure they still do them
this way. After we got a good mechanical technician he silver
soldered them. No big deal. The silver solder was the type used
in refrigeration tubing soldering.

Bob AZ

Bob... I have been coating mine with silver solder for many years.
They
last
a LONG time. WW

How can a "coat" of silver solder work? it will admix/dilute with the
next loading of SnPb solder let alone Pb-Free

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list
onhttp://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

The term "silver solder" has two meanings: Traditionally, and what Bob
means, it is a high temperature (450 deg C) alloy used with a
blowtorch for brazing. But it has recently been introduced for a low-
temperature lead solder replacement, causing frequent confusion.

Chris (whose first soldering iron was a Remploy. It may still be
around somewhere.)




But 450 deg C is not that much higher than electronics soldering iron
temperatures of 370 to 420 deg C, I take it that is enough margin
under brazing rod type silver solder, in practise.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/







there's "silver solder" and silver-BEARING solder,like the 3% Ag that TEK
used for their ceramic strips in tube and 400 series scopes.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
..com

In article ,
Jim Yanik wrote:
Do they currently make Antex tips small enough for SMD work?

Yes.

--
*He who laughs last has just realised the joke.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Jim Yanik wrote:
Do they currently make Antex tips small enough for SMD work?

Yes.

--
*He who laughs last has just realised the joke.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


And also specially shaped tips for removing SMD IC packages, all pins at
once, and ones to fit all standard sizes of R and C SMD packages. I
inherited a full set of these from a workshop that was packing it all in.
They work very well, but are expensive to replace when they burn away.

Arfa

"Arfa Daily" wrote in
:


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Jim Yanik wrote:
Do they currently make Antex tips small enough for SMD work?

Yes.

--
*He who laughs last has just realised the joke.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


And also specially shaped tips for removing SMD IC packages, all pins
at once, and ones to fit all standard sizes of R and C SMD packages. I
inherited a full set of these from a workshop that was packing it all
in. They work very well, but are expensive to replace when they burn
away.

Arfa




ever use the Pace thermo-tweeze system?
I wasn't very fond of it,those custom tips were unwieldy and as you
say,costly.I think I'd prefer a hotplate and hot air gun with tweezers,or
Chip-quik and the hot air gun..

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
..com

In article ,
Jim Yanik wrote:

"N_Cook" wrote in
:

wrote in message
.
.. On 28 Sep, 09:10, "N_Cook" wrote:
WW wrote in message

...





"Bob AZ" wrote in message

m...
Are these typically made of copper
and then plated with something? Does anyone who's done this have
any tips (no pun intended) for me?

Smitty

We routinely sent out our tips to be silver soldered. Never any
probems. We did this in the 60s and I am sure they still do them
this way. After we got a good mechanical technician he silver
soldered them. No big deal. The silver solder was the type used
in refrigeration tubing soldering.

Bob AZ

Bob... I have been coating mine with silver solder for many years.
They
last
a LONG time. WW

How can a "coat" of silver solder work? it will admix/dilute with the
next loading of SnPb solder let alone Pb-Free

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list
onhttp://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

The term "silver solder" has two meanings: Traditionally, and what Bob
means, it is a high temperature (450 deg C) alloy used with a
blowtorch for brazing. But it has recently been introduced for a low-
temperature lead solder replacement, causing frequent confusion.

Chris (whose first soldering iron was a Remploy. It may still be
around somewhere.)




But 450 deg C is not that much higher than electronics soldering iron
temperatures of 370 to 420 deg C, I take it that is enough margin
under brazing rod type silver solder, in practise.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/







there's "silver solder" and silver-BEARING solder,like the 3% Ag that TEK
used for their ceramic strips in tube and 400 series scopes.

Which they used because if the solder wasn't already saturated with
silver, it'd destroy those silver-on-ceramic terminal strips in one
second. Nice of them to include a little coil of the stuff in every
'scope.

Isaac

In article ,
Jim Yanik wrote:
ever use the Pace thermo-tweeze system? I wasn't very fond of it,those
custom tips were unwieldy and as you say,costly.I think I'd prefer a
hotplate and hot air gun with tweezers,or Chip-quik and the hot air
gun..

Yes - but hot air systems were very expensive when introduced. Although of
course so was most Pace stuff. ;-)

--
*Verbs HAS to agree with their subjects *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

N_Cook wrote:
But 450 deg C is not that much higher than
electronics soldering iron temperatures of 370 to 420 deg C,
I take it that is enough margin under
brazing rod type silver solder, in practise.

To distinguish the difference, some folks have been
referring to the electronics-related stuff as "silver-bearing solder".
..
..
We got Arfa using this the other week.
Maybe this week we can get your sad blockquoting fixed.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.e...5?dmode=source

This is a 3rd-party update for M$'s non-compliant softwa
http://google.com/search?q=inurl:jain+%22+OE.doesn't.exactly.feature .the.most.intelligent.quoting.algorithm

Jim Yanik wrote:
[...]like the 3% Ag that TEK used
for their ceramic strips in tube and 400 series scopes.

isw wrote:
[...]if the solder wasn't already saturated with silver,
it'd destroy those silver-on-ceramic terminal strips
Isaac

FYI: You're not telling Yanik anything new;
he was once a Tek guy.

"JeffM" wrote in message
...
N_Cook wrote:
But 450 deg C is not that much higher than
electronics soldering iron temperatures of 370 to 420 deg C,
I take it that is enough margin under
brazing rod type silver solder, in practise.

To distinguish the difference, some folks have been
referring to the electronics-related stuff as "silver-bearing solder".
.
.
We got Arfa using this the other week.
Maybe this week we can get your sad blockquoting fixed.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.e...5?dmode=source

This is a 3rd-party update for M$'s non-compliant softwa
http://google.com/search?q=inurl:jain+%22+OE.doesn't.exactly.feature .the.most.intelligent.quoting.algorithm


Indeed you did ! Everyone says it looks much better now, so best of all
worlds. I'm still able to use OE which I find 'comfortable' for posting to
and reading from text groups, and no one has to moan that my blockquoting
looks poor :-)

Dead easy install, and transparent in use. Thoroughly recommended. Now if we
can just fix top posters ...

Arfa

Arfa Daily wrote:

Indeed you did ! Everyone says it looks much better now, so best of all
worlds. I'm still able to use OE which I find 'comfortable' for posting to
and reading from text groups, and no one has to moan that my blockquoting
looks poor :-)

Dead easy install, and transparent in use. Thoroughly recommended. Now if we
can just fix top posters ...


They aren't hard to fix. The hard part is getting them to the
Veterinarian's office. ;-)



--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense!