Greetings

I am trying to make a rolling pin. When I try to drill the hole for the
handle, the bit wanders and does not come out in the center of the other
end. What is the best procedure for drilling this hole?

Thanks

Gary

In article ,
"Gary & Karen" wrote:

Greetings

I am trying to make a rolling pin. When I try to drill the hole for the
handle, the bit wanders and does not come out in the center of the other
end. What is the best procedure for drilling this hole?

Thanks

Gary

Make a "French" style rolling pin and skip the hole. I'm not sre whether
this style is actually especially prevalent in France, but that's what
I've always seen it called in the US. Long narrow in with taper ends -
user rolls on the tapers, rather than grabbing handles.

Drill the hole first, then turn the pin with the hole in the middle.

Glue up the turning block - before gluing up, rout a half-round in each
half, line them up, perfect hole.

Parabolic bit.

D-bit (search the archives, detailed instructions have been given in the
this group in the past).

With any of the drilling methods, drill half-way from each end and the
ends will come out right (but you have to hope the middles meet - on the
other hand, it's half the distance to go out of whack).

Gary & Karen wrote:
Greetings

I am trying to make a rolling pin. When I try to drill the hole for the
handle, the bit wanders and does not come out in the center of the other
end. What is the best procedure for drilling this hole?

Thanks

Gary


Do like the pepper mill turners do: Go to the Goodwill store and get an
old rolling pin, and use the hole out of that one.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Glory is fleeting, but obscurity is
forever. - Napoleon Bonaparte





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On Sat, 2 Jul 2005 20:54:01 -0400, "Gary & Karen"
wrote:

Greetings

I am trying to make a rolling pin. When I try to drill the hole for the
handle, the bit wanders and does not come out in the center of the other
end. What is the best procedure for drilling this hole?

Thanks

Gary


If you feel you need handles, drill the hole first, then turn with a
mandrel as drive and a large tapered live centre at the other end
(don't go mad with tailstock pressure or you might split the stock).

Anything I turn needing a central hole has the hole drilled first,
whether it's a through hole or a blind hole. I did it that way when I
first started because I didn't know any better, and continued because
I'm still convinced it's the easiest way - with smaller stuff, anyway.
I have a boxful of hardwood mandrels turned to suit, and it only takes
a few minutes to make a new one. A bolt in a jacobs chuck (with a
rubber tap washer for friction) is sometimes enough.

But why a hole in the first place? Here in S.Scotland/N.England, I've
made a few rollings pins on demand, and they've all been plain
cylinders - some ends slightly domed, some turned down to decorative
integral knobs. Most professional cooks/bakers here seem to use the
flat of their hands to drive a very plain rolling pin - there seems to
be more control. In fact, SWMBO has just chipped in with her opinion
that she's only ever used a plain wooden roller as handles/holes, etc,
must be difficult to clean and sound like a bit of a hygiene risk.

John

I am trying to make a rolling pin. When I try to drill the hole for the
handle, the bit wanders and does not come out in the center of the other
end. What is the best procedure for drilling this hole?

Try using a smaller bit for a pilot hole to the half-way point, then
approach from the other end. Check that the two holes line up with better
than 50% congruency; if not, set aside the wood for potential pepper-mills
and start again. If the pilots line up fairly well /then/ rebore to correct
size.

Also, drill /very/ slowly and remove frequently to clear the bit; here I use
an old screwdriver to check for direction. It's possible to true a
wandering pilot at this stage, but it takes a lot of time, care and luck...

For items up to about 12" I guesstimate a 70% success rate with lamp
standards, etc; anything over that and it drops off quickly

Good luck!

--
- Andy
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Confidence is the feeling you have before you understand the situation.

On Sat, 2 Jul 2005 20:54:01 -0400, "Gary & Karen"
wrote:

Greetings

I am trying to make a rolling pin. When I try to drill the hole for the
handle, the bit wanders and does not come out in the center of the other
end. What is the best procedure for drilling this hole?

Thanks

Gary


I've made a few rolling pins, but all were one solid piece without any
mechanism. But I've made other items which require a
perfectly-centered hole. In that case, I drill the hole first, then
use the hole as a center to turn the piece. I know there are gun
barrel drills (or are these reamers?) used in metal lathes. No matter
how careful I tried, I had not been able to drill a perfectly-centered
hole (I'll be looking for any words of wisdom on this topic!)

"Phisherman" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 2 Jul 2005 20:54:01 -0400, "Gary & Karen"
wrote:

Greetings

I am trying to make a rolling pin. When I try to drill the hole for the
handle, the bit wanders and does not come out in the center of the other
end. What is the best procedure for drilling this hole?

Thanks

Gary


I've made a few rolling pins, but all were one solid piece without any
mechanism. But I've made other items which require a
perfectly-centered hole. In that case, I drill the hole first, then
use the hole as a center to turn the piece. I know there are gun
barrel drills (or are these reamers?)

gun drills and reamers are 2 seperate but equal tools

a gun drill bit is a long slender "V" shaped implement

when using a gun drill, much like a lathe, the drill bit is mounted in the
headstock
and the workpiece is pushed into the bit

HTH
Otto



used in metal lathes. No matter
how careful I tried, I had not been able to drill a perfectly-centered
hole (I'll be looking for any words of wisdom on this topic!)

"Phisherman" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 2 Jul 2005 20:54:01 -0400, "Gary & Karen"
wrote:

Greetings

I am trying to make a rolling pin. When I try to drill the hole for the
handle, the bit wanders and does not come out in the center of the other
end. What is the best procedure for drilling this hole?

Thanks

Gary


I've made a few rolling pins, but all were one solid piece without any
mechanism. But I've made other items which require a
perfectly-centered hole. In that case, I drill the hole first, then
use the hole as a center to turn the piece. I know there are gun
barrel drills (or are these reamers?) used in metal lathes. No matter
how careful I tried, I had not been able to drill a perfectly-centered
hole (I'll be looking for any words of wisdom on this topic!)

Nobody's hit mine yet, but short hole in each end, hole through the shorter
handle, the entire captured by a turned dowel with a head.

yep thats how my mothers was made and it lasted her 20 years before the
handles broke off. One of these day's I will have to get it from her so that
I can repair it.
"George" wrote in message
...

"Phisherman" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 2 Jul 2005 20:54:01 -0400, "Gary & Karen"
wrote:

Greetings

I am trying to make a rolling pin. When I try to drill the hole for the
handle, the bit wanders and does not come out in the center of the other
end. What is the best procedure for drilling this hole?

Thanks

Gary


I've made a few rolling pins, but all were one solid piece without any
mechanism. But I've made other items which require a
perfectly-centered hole. In that case, I drill the hole first, then
use the hole as a center to turn the piece. I know there are gun
barrel drills (or are these reamers?) used in metal lathes. No matter
how careful I tried, I had not been able to drill a perfectly-centered
hole (I'll be looking for any words of wisdom on this topic!)

Nobody's hit mine yet, but short hole in each end, hole through the
shorter
handle, the entire captured by a turned dowel with a head.

In article ,
"Gary & Karen" wrote:

I am trying to make a rolling pin. When I try to drill the hole for the
handle, the bit wanders and does not come out in the center of the other
end. What is the best procedure for drilling this hole?

I don't believe anyone's asked the most important question yet:

What type of bit are you using? A forstner bit would be my first choice
as they cut very cleanly and don't tear out the entrance. Second choice
would be a brad-point. Standard bits will frequently wander.

Not very clear on why you need a through'n'through hole. The handled
rolling pins I've seen use something that looks like pins that fit
snugly into the holes and have hand pieces that freely rotate and are
captured by a head on the handle pin.

BTW, anyone know why the gadget is called a rolling *pin*?

--
Owen Lowe

Northwest Woodturners,
Cascade Woodturners,
Pacific Northwest Woodturning Guild
___
Safety Tip'o'th'week: Never grind aluminum and steel or iron on the same
machine or workstation - Thermite.
http://www.hanford.gov/lessons/sitell/ll01/2001-36.htm

"Owen Lowe" wrote in message
news
BTW, anyone know why the gadget is called a rolling *pin*?


Rather suspect it has something to do with similarity to a belaying pin or
the pins used to hoist anchor with a capstan.

I am trying to make a rolling pin. When I try to drill the hole for the
handle, the bit wanders and does not come out in the center of the other
end. What is the best procedure for drilling this hole?

I don't believe anyone's asked the most important question yet:

What type of bit are you using? A forstner bit would be my first choice
as they cut very cleanly and don't tear out the entrance. Second choice
would be a brad-point. Standard bits will frequently wander.

Good point. I use a centre-point for the pilot then a home-made boring bar.
I prefer an old .22 barrel w/carbide inserts but that's a bit oversize for a
rolling pin...

Would a forstner cope with the needed depth? I think an extension bar'd
introduce an element of 'wobble', causing more risk of wander?

--
- Andy
----------------------------------------------------------------------
"Bother," said Pooh, as he posted the message in the wrong conference.

On Mon, 04 Jul 2005 00:18:58 -0700, Owen Lowe
wrote:

(snip)
BTW, anyone know why the gadget is called a rolling *pin*?

AFAIK, Old or Middle English word pinn meant a peg of any kind,
usually wooden. Hence rolling pin, nine pins, belaying pin, cotter
pin, etc.

Not forgetting pin number - a security device invented by someone with
a wooden head...

John

You don't need a hole all the way threw the main blank... Make your handles
the pieces with the hole all the way through them then turn a pices that had
a dowel like pin and a knob on the end. Glue this piece into the two holes
on the ends of the main part(rolling pin) and your handles will spin around
this part not the rolling pin. Understand? if not email me and I will send
you better directions..

YOu can also see my exlanation he
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...t=rolling+pins

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...t=rolling+pins



--
Chris Pine



Ever look at your watch then look away again and you don't know what time it
is?!

"Gary & Karen" wrote in message
...
Greetings

I am trying to make a rolling pin. When I try to drill the hole for the
handle, the bit wanders and does not come out in the center of the other
end. What is the best procedure for drilling this hole?

Thanks

Gary

I've been watching this thread for a few days but didn't have anything
to add until now. I was just cleaning out my desk drawer and found a
sketch I had made some time in the dim past. In a kitchen store,
somewhere, I found a number of rolling pins made by the Vic Firth
company. Their primary product is drum sticks but... Anyway, take a
look at http://vicfirthgourmet.com for a bunch of ideas.

My sketch of the French style pin says that it is about 15" long. The
major diameter is about 1 1/8 tapering to about 7/8 at each end. The
one in the picture looks as if it may taper more than that. I can make
a pretty good pie crust and don't see the stationary handles of the
normal style of pin seen in this country as necessary or, maybe, even
desirable. You'd get a better feel of the crust without them.

I wonder if it would be possible to make a serviceable, dual purpose
drum stick/rolling pin. That way a drummer would have something useful
for his day job also.

Bill

Christopher Pine wrote:
You don't need a hole all the way threw the main blank... Make your handles
the pieces with the hole all the way through them then turn a pices that had
a dowel like pin and a knob on the end. Glue this piece into the two holes
on the ends of the main part(rolling pin) and your handles will spin around
this part not the rolling pin. Understand? if not email me and I will send
you better directions..

YOu can also see my exlanation he
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...t=rolling+pins

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...t=rolling+pins

On Sat, 2 Jul 2005 20:54:01 -0400, "Gary & Karen" wrote:

Greetings

I am trying to make a rolling pin. When I try to drill the hole for the
handle, the bit wanders and does not come out in the center of the other
end. What is the best procedure for drilling this hole?

Thanks

Gary

Are you using a drill chuck on the tail stock??
the hole should be VERY centered, especially if you have trued the whole pin up
first..
I'm guessing that you might need a steady rest, also??


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 04 Jul 2005 16:36:37 GMT, Bill Rubenstein wrote:
My sketch of the French style pin says that it is about 15" long. The
major diameter is about 1 1/8 tapering to about 7/8 at each end. The
one in the picture looks as if it may taper more than that. I can make
a pretty good pie crust and don't see the stationary handles of the
normal style of pin seen in this country as necessary or, maybe, even
desirable. You'd get a better feel of the crust without them.

snip
Bill

I asked the wife why a rolling pin has handles... (and I should have thought of
this) and she said it was to keep the heat of your hands from melting the
shortening in the pie crust..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Hi Bill,

Having nothing to add never stops me. The standard rolling pin design of
my youth was seen every Sunday in the funny papers; the weapon Maggie
used to get Jiggs attention. Recent generations, nevermind, too tedious
to bother explaining.

What about a quintuple purpose rolling
pin/spurtle/drumstick/baton/knock-out bar? That way the baker like
greasy Joan he doth stir the pot and roll the dough, days. Then like
Gene Krupa (again nevermind) he doth beat the drums and lead the band,
nights. (those old drummers may have also stirred a different kind of
pot) As for the knock-out bar, he used it while turning another
pin/stick on his Stubby.

Yep, I've swilled my first holiday Bud, but never a fifth on the fourth.



Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

mac davis wrote in
:

I asked the wife why a rolling pin has handles... (and I should have
thought of this) and she said it was to keep the heat of your hands
from melting the shortening in the pie crust..


I don't understand your statement here, Mac. If the rolling pin is
sufficiently long, this is still not a problem. Maple doesn't conduct heat
all that well anyway.

The rolling pin we most often use is a simple maple cylinder, ~2"d, 18"
long, purchased at a snooty kitchen store, in the days before woodworking
became an obession^H^H^H^H^Hhobby.

Patriarch.

Patriarch wrote:

mac davis wrote in
I don't understand your statement here, Mac. If the rolling pin is
sufficiently long, this is still not a problem. Maple doesn't conduct heat
all that well anyway.

The length would take care of it, probably, mine doesn't have handles
and it's cherry. As for the heat of the hands, that's critical if you
want a flakey crust. The dough and everything else should be COLD,
that's why stone rolling pins as so well liked by bakers.

Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.org

"John" wrote in message
...

Not forgetting pin number - a security device invented by someone with
a wooden head...


Not to mention a passion for redundancy....

"Dave in Fairfax" wrote in message
...

The length would take care of it, probably, mine doesn't have handles
and it's cherry. As for the heat of the hands, that's critical if you
want a flakey crust. The dough and everything else should be COLD,
that's why stone rolling pins as so well liked by bakers.

Fortunately the taper on each end isolates heat from the hands from the
dough.

On Mon, 04 Jul 2005 14:57:38 -0500, Patriarch
wrote:

mac davis wrote in
:

I asked the wife why a rolling pin has handles... (and I should have
thought of this) and she said it was to keep the heat of your hands
from melting the shortening in the pie crust..


I don't understand your statement here, Mac. If the rolling pin is
sufficiently long, this is still not a problem. Maple doesn't conduct heat
all that well anyway.

The rolling pin we most often use is a simple maple cylinder, ~2"d, 18"
long, purchased at a snooty kitchen store, in the days before woodworking
became an obession^H^H^H^H^Hhobby.

Patriarch.

I have no idea, though our rolling pin (as I remember it) is not that long...

I just remember that years ago I tried making pie crusts and kept melting the
damn shortening and getting really sucky crusts...
now, you can buy the suckers cheaper than you can make 'em!

Thinking back, I remember a friend that was a chef showing me his "tools" and he
had a stainless steel rolling pin (that, if I remember correctly, had handles)
that he kept chilled or something...

I confess... if you don't burn it over fire, I probably don't know how to cook
it..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 4 Jul 2005 18:53:06 -0400, "George" wrote:


"Dave in Fairfax" wrote in message
...

The length would take care of it, probably, mine doesn't have handles
and it's cherry. As for the heat of the hands, that's critical if you
want a flakey crust. The dough and everything else should be COLD,
that's why stone rolling pins as so well liked by bakers.

Fortunately the taper on each end isolates heat from the hands from the
dough.

good point, George!!


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Mon, 4 Jul 2005 18:50:41 -0400, "George" wrote:


"John" wrote in message
.. .

Not forgetting pin number - a security device invented by someone with
a wooden head...


Not to mention a passion for redundancy....

besides, shouldn't it be a PI number?
when you're asked for a PIN number, they're saying "input Personal
Identification Number number", right??


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
snip
I just remember that years ago I tried making pie crusts and kept melting the
damn shortening and getting really sucky crusts...
now, you can buy the suckers cheaper than you can make 'em!

Thinking back, I remember a friend that was a chef showing me his "tools" and he
had a stainless steel rolling pin (that, if I remember correctly, had handles)
that he kept chilled or something...

That's exactly the problem. The lard/shortening and the utensils have
to be COLD. If they start to warm, you might as well get one of the
lousey ones from the store. Stone and metal chill and stay cold very
well, wood doesn't accept of conduct heat very well, so it's usable, but
if you aren't keeping your hands to the ends, it will affect the dough.
either way, you don't need to run a hole through the entire rolling pin.

Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.org

On Tue, 05 Jul 2005 16:24:45 GMT, Dave in Fairfax wrote:

mac davis wrote:
snip
I just remember that years ago I tried making pie crusts and kept melting the
damn shortening and getting really sucky crusts...
now, you can buy the suckers cheaper than you can make 'em!

Thinking back, I remember a friend that was a chef showing me his "tools" and he
had a stainless steel rolling pin (that, if I remember correctly, had handles)
that he kept chilled or something...

That's exactly the problem. The lard/shortening and the utensils have
to be COLD. If they start to warm, you might as well get one of the
lousey ones from the store. Stone and metal chill and stay cold very
well, wood doesn't accept of conduct heat very well, so it's usable, but
if you aren't keeping your hands to the ends, it will affect the dough.
either way, you don't need to run a hole through the entire rolling pin.

Dave in Fairfax

but if you do, my neighbor suggested using a high velocity, steel jacketed
round... he thought that a hollow point would make too big of a hole and
wouldn't be acceptably round.. *rofl*
It's kind of interesting, the way non-wood workers look at a problem..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
but if you do, my neighbor suggested using a high velocity, steel jacketed
round... he thought that a hollow point would make too big of a hole and
wouldn't be acceptably round.. *rofl*
It's kind of interesting, the way non-wood workers look at a problem..

You do realise that we're talking about MAJOR tearout with that
solution.

Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.patinatools.org

Dave & Mac are so right. Before air conditioning and frigidares, making
flaky pie crust wasn't easy in S. Fla. most of the year. Cutting warm
lard or crisco into the dough, and rolling it out was worse than turning
palm, even with a chilled rolling pin on a marble pastry board. Yankee
blueberry pies were wicked good, but Southern chicken & dumplings &
peach cobblers were sinful also.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

On Wed, 6 Jul 2005 18:23:52 -0400, (Arch) wrote:

Dave & Mac are so right. Before air conditioning and frigidares, making
flaky pie crust wasn't easy in S. Fla. most of the year. Cutting warm
lard or crisco into the dough, and rolling it out was worse than turning
palm, even with a chilled rolling pin on a marble pastry board. Yankee
blueberry pies were wicked good, but Southern chicken & dumplings &
peach cobblers were sinful also.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter

Ok, Arch.. I have to ask....
How DO you turn palm, with a chilled rolling pin on a marble pastry board?


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Sorry for your confusion, Mac. I should have have made it clearer that
it's difficult to turn a rolling pin over the dough with sweaty palms.
Hope to palm this TIC off on you.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

On Tue, 05 Jul 2005 08:46:18 -0700, mac davis
wrote:

Not forgetting pin number - a security device invented by someone with
a wooden head...


Not to mention a passion for redundancy....

besides, shouldn't it be a PI number?
when you're asked for a PIN number, they're saying "input Personal
Identification Number number", right??

Ah yes, the "PIN number..." what you need if you're going to the "ATM
machine."

--
Chuck *#:^)
chaz3913(AT)yahoo(DOT)com
Anti-spam sig: please remove "NO SPAM" from e-mail address to reply.


September 11, 2001 - Never Forget

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Hi Gary

You probably have finished your rolling pin by now, but I have been
helping my youngest son move house, they needed more room after the
arrival of there 3th child, so we have been busy.

I'm catching up with the post of the last two weeks on rcw.

I have made some rolling pins with handles on a shaft that went through
the length of the rolling pin.

I wanted to make some real smooth turning, rolling pins, and used
bearings for the rolling pins, (turned them from UHMW) and used 10 mm
stainless steel tubing for the shaft.

I drilled the rolling pins blanks 3/4"D for approx. 1 1/2" deep on both
ends and then drilled a 1/2" hole halfway through from both ends, that
gave me enough clearance so the shaft would not bind in the wandered
drill hole.

I also made holders to store the rolling pins on, I used turned disks
cut in half to make two half moon pieces and drilled two holes in each
for 1/4" dowels to space the half moons apart, and drilled with a
forstner bit a almost half hole, for the handles to lay in .

They made very nice Christmas gifts and were very well received.

Drilling long holes in wood that stay straight and on center is hard to
do, unless you have some special bits, and they are hard to come by, you
could make a so called D drill or gun drill, but it takes a long time to
drill deep holes with them, they don't cut fast and you have to keep
backing the bit out very often since there is so little room for the
swarf, Dan Bollinger showed a picture of a deep hole wood drill at one
time, never seen or used one like that, and I don't know if it would be
worthwhile to make one.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo



Gary & Karen wrote:

Greetings

I am trying to make a rolling pin. When I try to drill the hole for the
handle, the bit wanders and does not come out in the center of the other
end. What is the best procedure for drilling this hole?

Thanks

Gary

On Thu, 7 Jul 2005 13:13:04 -0400, (Arch) wrote:

Sorry for your confusion, Mac. I should have have made it clearer that
it's difficult to turn a rolling pin over the dough with sweaty palms.
Hope to palm this TIC off on you.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


Just pulling your chain, Arch...
I was expecting a more philosophical answer, though.. lol


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing