Why can't car and body mechanics be a little more intuitive with car
electronics ?
I just got my Santa Fe out of the body shop, it needed a new fender
and hood.
The workmanship is excellent how ever, my alarm system is now screwed
up!
If I arm my alarm, if goes off by it self after a while.

I did some checking around and all I can find is a hood switch that is
suppose to get depressed when the hood is closed. I guess this must be a
theft device because it appears I have no under hood light. (I thought I
did ), any ways, kind of hard to depress the switch when there is a
hole in the inside liner of the hood where I assume a rubber foot is
suppose to be to press the switch.!
I don't understand why the lights in the dash didn't display this
other wise ?

actually, the switch looks kind of funky if you ask me? It has
what looks like a mini steel cable or something like that going down
some where ? Maybe it's part of a vibration sensor along with hood not
pushing it into place.

what do you guys think about that?

On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 21:07:47 -0400, Jamie
t wrote:

Why can't car and body mechanics be a little more intuitive with car
electronics ?
I just got my Santa Fe out of the body shop, it needed a new fender
and hood.
The workmanship is excellent how ever, my alarm system is now screwed
up!
If I arm my alarm, if goes off by it self after a while.

I did some checking around and all I can find is a hood switch that is
suppose to get depressed when the hood is closed. I guess this must be a
theft device because it appears I have no under hood light. (I thought I
did ), any ways, kind of hard to depress the switch when there is a
hole in the inside liner of the hood where I assume a rubber foot is
suppose to be to press the switch.!
I don't understand why the lights in the dash didn't display this
other wise ?

actually, the switch looks kind of funky if you ask me? It has
what looks like a mini steel cable or something like that going down
some where ? Maybe it's part of a vibration sensor along with hood not
pushing it into place.

what do you guys think about that?

Personally, I think the question is posted in the wrong group, but
that's a personal opinion!

In article ,
Meat Plow wrote:
No need for a hood switch when you have to get inside to pop the latch
is there?

The cable from these can break - so it's usually possible to open the
'hood' from outside. By perhaps accessing the actual locks from
underneath. So a switch for the alarm is common.

--
*To be intoxicated is to feel sophisticated, but not be able to say it.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 23 Jun 2009 09:36:10 -0400, Meat Plow
wrote:



No need for a hood switch when you have to get inside to pop the latch
is there?

Most hoods can be opened from outside with a hook tool. Trivial.


Might try resetting the alarm by disconnecting the battery. It's
possible the battery was disconnected when the work was done and the
alarm got spiked when it was reconnected.

That is a good suggestion. Also ensuring the switch is in fact being
kept open with the hood closed (visual inspection may help) is a good
idea.

But, post this in an auto/alarm group, you will be getting much better
answers.

In article ,
Meat Plow wrote:
On Tue, 23 Jun 2009 16:17:21 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Meat Plow wrote:
No need for a hood switch when you have to get inside to pop the latch
is there?

The cable from these can break - so it's usually possible to open the
'hood' from outside. By perhaps accessing the actual locks from
underneath. So a switch for the alarm is common.

Must be common on newer vehicles. My 03 Trailblazer doesn't have one
nor did my 00 Nissan Pathfinder. Maybe a UK spec although I didn't
note the country of origin for the OP.

My BMW has. And it's 10 years old. Of course if you have automatic under
bonnet lighting the load sensing part of the alarm will use that instead.

--
*Heart attacks... God's revenge for eating his animal friends

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Meat Plow wrote in :

On Tue, 23 Jun 2009 16:17:21 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
Meat Plow wrote:
No need for a hood switch when you have to get inside to pop the latch
is there?

The cable from these can break - so it's usually possible to open the
'hood' from outside. By perhaps accessing the actual locks from
underneath. So a switch for the alarm is common.

Must be common on newer vehicles. My 03 Trailblazer doesn't have one
nor did my 00 Nissan Pathfinder. Maybe a UK spec although I didn't
note the country of origin for the OP.


On (94-01)Integras,thieves use a stiff wire to hook the release cable from
under the front bumper,or they yank out the left wheelwell cover and cut
the release cable.Then they quickly lift the hood and cut the wires to your
alarm.it may only give a short alarm,then dead.
Then they strip the car at their leisure.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On Wed, 24 Jun 2009 08:51:58 -0400, Meat Plow
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Jun 2009 12:36:14 -0400, PeterD wrote:

On Tue, 23 Jun 2009 09:36:10 -0400, Meat Plow
wrote:



No need for a hood switch when you have to get inside to pop the latch
is there?

Most hoods can be opened from outside with a hook tool. Trivial.

Not being in the repo or theft business I'm obviously uninformed.

Most mechanics experience the "Oh, and I can't get the hood release to
work..." symptom. Common here, due to salt induced rust in the cable,
(and cheap parts) and once that happens the only way is that 'hook
tool'. g

Then when you can't find a replacement cable (obsolete) you end up
with a piece of cord hanging out the grill with a bit of wood for a
handle!



Might try resetting the alarm by disconnecting the battery. It's
possible the battery was disconnected when the work was done and the
alarm got spiked when it was reconnected.

That is a good suggestion. Also ensuring the switch is in fact being
kept open with the hood closed (visual inspection may help) is a good
idea.

But, post this in an auto/alarm group, you will be getting much better
answers.

I suppose it's been sufficiently answered here.

Perhaps, but I'm not sure the OP would agree.

Meat Plow wrote:

On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 21:07:47 -0400, Jamie
wrote:


Why can't car and body mechanics be a little more intuitive with car
electronics ?
I just got my Santa Fe out of the body shop, it needed a new fender
and hood.
The workmanship is excellent how ever, my alarm system is now screwed
up!
If I arm my alarm, if goes off by it self after a while.

I did some checking around and all I can find is a hood switch that is
suppose to get depressed when the hood is closed. I guess this must be a
theft device because it appears I have no under hood light. (I thought I
did ), any ways, kind of hard to depress the switch when there is a
hole in the inside liner of the hood where I assume a rubber foot is
suppose to be to press the switch.!
I don't understand why the lights in the dash didn't display this
other wise ?

actually, the switch looks kind of funky if you ask me? It has
what looks like a mini steel cable or something like that going down
some where ? Maybe it's part of a vibration sensor along with hood not
pushing it into place.

what do you guys think about that?


No need for a hood switch when you have to get inside to pop the latch
is there?

Might try resetting the alarm by disconnecting the battery. It's
possible the battery was disconnected when the work was done and the
alarm got spiked when it was reconnected.
Got it fixed, there is a hood pin (push cable) that gets depressed via a
rubber foot in the hood. they still had my old hood there and pull the
plug out of it. that fixed it how ever, today I had to return the car
and have them fix the paint job on the hood, apparently they didn't
fully clean off the plastic sticky tape that comes on the new body
panels and painted over some on the edge of the hood near the wind
shield. We've had lots of rain here, it came off. I have a nice thin
white edge on my hood against a Dark Green car.. nice!