Someone gave me a Samsung 27" TV, Model TXL2791F. When I tried to turn
it on it did nothing. No indication of power at all. I opened it up and
checked the fuses. All good.

I got a copy of the schematics, and did a little circuit tracing.
There's a component called a flyback transformer, which is connected to
a component called a high voltage tripler, which is connected to the CRT
high voltage anode. There's a picture of it at
http://www.wehaveparts.com/index.cgi...=1553&cart_id=
1146478751 . The picture says it's a flyback transformer, but according
to the schematic it's the tripler. The schematic just shows a box. No
internal wiring.

The thick wire shown in the picture goes to the CRT anode, the thin wire
goes to a ground, and the hole is for a thick wire from the flyback.

When I pull the ground off, I can turn the TV on with the switch as well
as the remote. After removing the ground, when I plug it in I hear the
slight crackling/humming sound that means the set is powering up, and a
red LED comes on that means the set is powered up but off. When I press
the ON switch or the remote, the LED turns green, and I get a tone that
means I need to set up the time, channels, etc. I get no picture, of
course, because there's no voltage to the CRT, but everything else seems
to indicate that the TV is starting to power up normally. When the
ground wire is connected, presing the switch or the remote gets no
reaction at all.

No, my question. Would this indicate a problem with the tripler? Or the
flyback? What's a good way to test? I am familiar with radio and
computer repair, but I've never worked with televisions, and I don't
have any high voltage test equipment. Thanks for the help.

Oh, and I'm aware that the voltages in a TV can kill me, so I take
proper safety precautions, so no need to remind me. Thanks for the
thought, though.

George Jetson wrote:
Someone gave me a Samsung 27" TV, Model TXL2791F. When I tried to turn
it on it did nothing. No indication of power at all. I opened it up and
checked the fuses. All good.

I got a copy of the schematics, and did a little circuit tracing.
There's a component called a flyback transformer, which is connected to
a component called a high voltage tripler, which is connected to the CRT
high voltage anode. There's a picture of it at
http://www.wehaveparts.com/index.cgi...=1553&cart_id=
1146478751 . The picture says it's a flyback transformer, but according
to the schematic it's the tripler. The schematic just shows a box. No
internal wiring.

The thick wire shown in the picture goes to the CRT anode, the thin wire
goes to a ground, and the hole is for a thick wire from the flyback.

When I pull the ground off, I can turn the TV on with the switch as well
as the remote. After removing the ground, when I plug it in I hear the
slight crackling/humming sound that means the set is powering up, and a
red LED comes on that means the set is powered up but off. When I press
the ON switch or the remote, the LED turns green, and I get a tone that
means I need to set up the time, channels, etc. I get no picture, of
course, because there's no voltage to the CRT, but everything else seems
to indicate that the TV is starting to power up normally. When the
ground wire is connected, presing the switch or the remote gets no
reaction at all.

No, my question. Would this indicate a problem with the tripler? Or the
flyback? What's a good way to test? I am familiar with radio and
computer repair, but I've never worked with televisions, and I don't
have any high voltage test equipment. Thanks for the help.

Oh, and I'm aware that the voltages in a TV can kill me, so I take
proper safety precautions, so no need to remind me. Thanks for the
thought, though.
in the model your speaking of there is only a FLYBACK transformer, the
tripler is built in the problem your having is the flyback
replace it and you should be good to go VERY VERY comon problem on sam dung

David Naylor wrote in
news
in the model your speaking of there is only a FLYBACK transformer, the
tripler is built in the problem your having is the flyback
replace it and you should be good to go VERY VERY comon problem on
sam dung


It appears to be two distinct components. This is the flyback:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c9...ee/flyback.jpg

This is the tripler:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c9...ee/tripler.jpg

How do I test it to see which it is? Thanks.

wrote in :

Unless this is just a hobby for you TVs are usually like Bic lighters.
When they go bad you toss them.
If you just start "easter egging" parts in there you could have more
than the TV is worth and still not fix it. Sometimes is is just one
thing but if this thing was hit by a power surge you could have smoked
several thiings

This one cost $700 new, and is better than the one I have now. If I can fix
it for $50 or $60 it'll be worth it. If I can't I'll toss it.

George Jetson wrote:
wrote in :


Unless this is just a hobby for you TVs are usually like Bic lighters.
When they go bad you toss them.
If you just start "easter egging" parts in there you could have more
than the TV is worth and still not fix it. Sometimes is is just one
thing but if this thing was hit by a power surge you could have smoked
several thiings


This one cost $700 new, and is better than the one I have now. If I can fix
it for $50 or $60 it'll be worth it. If I can't I'll toss it.


If you know what you're doing it shouldn't be hard to fix, otherwise
take it to a shop or at least find a friend who's experienced in working
on TVs or you'll more likely make it unrepairable.

Do you have a multimeter, soldering tools, and a basic understanding of
how a television set works?

James Sweet wrote in
news:Cnkjh.1136$4e.598@trnddc04:


Do you have a multimeter, soldering tools, and a basic understanding
of how a television set works?


Yes to all, plus I have a set of schematics for the TV.

You may want to check for open 1 ohm or so resistors on the secondary
side of the fbt, sweep derived supply, whatever you want to call it.


George Jetson wrote:
James Sweet wrote in
news:Cnkjh.1136$4e.598@trnddc04:


Do you have a multimeter, soldering tools, and a basic understanding
of how a television set works?


Yes to all, plus I have a set of schematics for the TV.

note that a neon ac tester will light up in the presence of a working
flyback. but don't play with one just yet, read up on your
troubleshooting questions, please see:
http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/tvfaq.htm
which is from:
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_Repair.html

George Jetson wrote:
Someone gave me a Samsung 27" TV, Model TXL2791F. When I tried to turn
it on it did nothing. No indication of power at all. I opened it up and
checked the fuses. All good.

I got a copy of the schematics, and did a little circuit tracing.
There's a component called a flyback transformer, which is connected to
a component called a high voltage tripler, which is connected to the CRT
high voltage anode. There's a picture of it at
http://www.wehaveparts.com/index.cgi...=1553&cart_id=
1146478751 . The picture says it's a flyback transformer, but according
to the schematic it's the tripler. The schematic just shows a box. No
internal wiring.

The thick wire shown in the picture goes to the CRT anode, the thin wire
goes to a ground, and the hole is for a thick wire from the flyback.

When I pull the ground off, I can turn the TV on with the switch as well
as the remote. After removing the ground, when I plug it in I hear the
slight crackling/humming sound that means the set is powering up, and a
red LED comes on that means the set is powered up but off. When I press
the ON switch or the remote, the LED turns green, and I get a tone that
means I need to set up the time, channels, etc. I get no picture, of
course, because there's no voltage to the CRT, but everything else seems
to indicate that the TV is starting to power up normally. When the
ground wire is connected, presing the switch or the remote gets no
reaction at all.

No, my question. Would this indicate a problem with the tripler? Or the
flyback? What's a good way to test? I am familiar with radio and
computer repair, but I've never worked with televisions, and I don't
have any high voltage test equipment. Thanks for the help.

Oh, and I'm aware that the voltages in a TV can kill me, so I take
proper safety precautions, so no need to remind me. Thanks for the
thought, though.

On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 00:44:48 GMT, George Jetson wrote:


wrote in :

Unless this is just a hobby for you TVs are usually like Bic lighters.
When they go bad you toss them.
If you just start "easter egging" parts in there you could have more
than the TV is worth and still not fix it. Sometimes is is just one
thing but if this thing was hit by a power surge you could have smoked
several thiings

This one cost $700 new, and is better than the one I have now. If I can fix
it for $50 or $60 it'll be worth it. If I can't I'll toss it.

You paid *way* too much or are quoting the price of 15 years ago. $450 will buy
you a well made 32" set; your tv can be replaced for under $300.

AZ Nomad wrote in
:


You paid *way* too much or are quoting the price of 15 years ago.

Neither. This TV came out in 2001 with a MSRP of $699. I got it for free.

$450 will buy you a well made 32" set; your tv can be replaced for
under $300.

Why would I want to pay $300 to $450 for a new TV, if I can fix this one
for $50 or $60?

"George Jetson" wrote in message
0...
AZ Nomad wrote in
:


You paid *way* too much or are quoting the price of 15 years ago.

Neither. This TV came out in 2001 with a MSRP of $699. I got it for free.

$450 will buy you a well made 32" set; your tv can be replaced for
under $300.

Why would I want to pay $300 to $450 for a new TV, if I can fix this one
for $50 or $60?

I haven't tried to buy a flyback for a long time. I suspect you will have
problem finding the right one and at a reasonable price.

Charlie

wrote in
:



That was my thought and if this is not digital capable it is a time
bomb anyway. I know I have seen guys throw part after part at a TV
that was "surged" and still end up with an old TV. These things are
wired in a big loop on the primary that includes lots of $20-70 parts
and a lightning hit will take out most of them. If it also got into
the tuner side, getting it to light up is only the start of your
misery.

It is no accident that there isn't a TV repair shop in every strip
mall these days.

It is digital capable. It's a pretty decent TV. I doubt that there's
heavy damage, since the woman I got it from didn't say anything about
lightning, and all the fuses and fusible links are good. I also took the
high voltage tripler out of circuit and the rest of the TV seemed to
power up ok.

Like I said before, I'm not going to put a lot of money into this.
That's why I'm asking for troubleshooting help.

George Jetson wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote in
:


You paid *way* too much or are quoting the price of 15 years ago.

Neither. This TV came out in 2001 with a MSRP of $699. I got it for
free.

$450 will buy you a well made 32" set; your tv can be replaced for
under $300.

Why would I want to pay $300 to $450 for a new TV, if I can fix this
one for $50 or $60?

Because it's a gamble. You can spend 50 to 60 bucks in an "attempt" to fix it.
If your time and effort is worth anything at all considerably more than that.
And when the new fly-back is in place there is a very good chance that the set
will be just as dead as it is now.

"Charlie Bress" wrote in
:

I haven't tried to buy a flyback for a long time. I suspect you will
have problem finding the right one and at a reasonable price.

Charlie



It doesn't appear to be the flyback. It's actually the tripler, and I found
one for $38 online. If it does end up being the flyback, I'm sure I can get
one from the same place.

"Rick Brandt" wrote in
:

Because it's a gamble. You can spend 50 to 60 bucks in an "attempt"
to fix it. If your time and effort is worth anything at all
considerably more than that. And when the new fly-back is in place
there is a very good chance that the set will be just as dead as it is
now.

That's why I'm asking for advice on troubleshooting. Besides, if I wasn't
trying to fix the TV, I'd probably be WATCHING TV, or playing on the
internet, so so my time and effort isn't worth all that much.

George Jetson wrote:
"Rick Brandt" wrote in
:

Because it's a gamble. You can spend 50 to 60 bucks in an "attempt"
to fix it. If your time and effort is worth anything at all
considerably more than that. And when the new fly-back is in place
there is a very good chance that the set will be just as dead as it
is now.

That's why I'm asking for advice on troubleshooting. Besides, if I
wasn't trying to fix the TV, I'd probably be WATCHING TV, or playing
on the internet, so so my time and effort isn't worth all that much.

Just be mindful that when working on a set (even one completely disconnected
from power) that there is more than one place you can touch that will light you
up pretty good. The old rule being "one hand in a pocket". A 27 inch will have
about 30,000 volts stored in the tube and some of the larger capacitors can get
your attention as well.

Rick Brandt wrote:
George Jetson wrote:
"Rick Brandt" wrote in
:
Because it's a gamble. You can spend 50 to 60 bucks in an "attempt"
to fix it. If your time and effort is worth anything at all
considerably more than that. And when the new fly-back is in place
there is a very good chance that the set will be just as dead as it
is now.

That's why I'm asking for advice on troubleshooting. Besides, if I
wasn't trying to fix the TV, I'd probably be WATCHING TV, or playing
on the internet, so so my time and effort isn't worth all that much.

Just be mindful that when working on a set (even one completely disconnected
from power) that there is more than one place you can touch that will light you
up pretty good. The old rule being "one hand in a pocket". A 27 inch will have
about 30,000 volts stored in the tube and some of the larger capacitors can get
your attention as well.

Hi...

I think it specified the "left" hand in the pocket...

Take care, be safe, and happy holidays.

Ken

Ken Weitzel wrote:

Rick Brandt wrote:

George Jetson wrote:

"Rick Brandt" wrote in
:

Because it's a gamble. You can spend 50 to 60 bucks in an "attempt"
to fix it. If your time and effort is worth anything at all
considerably more than that. And when the new fly-back is in place
there is a very good chance that the set will be just as dead as it
is now.

That's why I'm asking for advice on troubleshooting. Besides, if I
wasn't trying to fix the TV, I'd probably be WATCHING TV, or playing
on the internet, so so my time and effort isn't worth all that much.


Just be mindful that when working on a set (even one completely
disconnected from power) that there is more than one place you can
touch that will light you up pretty good. The old rule being "one
hand in a pocket". A 27 inch will have about 30,000 volts stored in
the tube and some of the larger capacitors can get your attention as
well.


Hi...

I think it specified the "left" hand in the pocket...

Take care, be safe, and happy holidays.

Ken

So left-handed people can't work on TVs?

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

CJT wrote:
Ken Weitzel wrote:

Rick Brandt wrote:

George Jetson wrote:

"Rick Brandt" wrote in
:

Because it's a gamble. You can spend 50 to 60 bucks in an "attempt"
to fix it. If your time and effort is worth anything at all
considerably more than that. And when the new fly-back is in place
there is a very good chance that the set will be just as dead as it
is now.

That's why I'm asking for advice on troubleshooting. Besides, if I
wasn't trying to fix the TV, I'd probably be WATCHING TV, or playing
on the internet, so so my time and effort isn't worth all that much.


Just be mindful that when working on a set (even one completely
disconnected from power) that there is more than one place you can
touch that will light you up pretty good. The old rule being "one
hand in a pocket". A 27 inch will have about 30,000 volts stored in
the tube and some of the larger capacitors can get your attention as
well.


Hi...

I think it specified the "left" hand in the pocket...

Take care, be safe, and happy holidays.

Ken

So left-handed people can't work on TVs?


Hi...

Hehehe.. none that I ever met

Seriously, the theory was that the left hand (shoulder) was nearest the
heart, so the path of current flow would be least likely fatal from the
right hand to wherever it was going, rather than the left.

Take care.

Ken

On Sat, 23 Dec 2006 22:18:47 GMT, George Jetson
put finger to keyboard and composed:

Someone gave me a Samsung 27" TV, Model TXL2791F. When I tried to turn
it on it did nothing. No indication of power at all. I opened it up and
checked the fuses. All good.

I got a copy of the schematics, and did a little circuit tracing.
There's a component called a flyback transformer, which is connected to
a component called a high voltage tripler, which is connected to the CRT
high voltage anode. There's a picture of it at
http://www.wehaveparts.com/index.cgi...=1553&cart_id=
1146478751 . The picture says it's a flyback transformer, but according
to the schematic it's the tripler. The schematic just shows a box. No
internal wiring.

The HR Diemen HR8720 appears to be an equivalent:
http://www.hrdiemen.es/products/inde...roduct&id=7357

FBT wiring diagram with voltages:
http://www.hrdiemen.es/products/inde...mas/HR8720.gif

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

It means the crowbar circuit is working as it is suppose to. Most
likely the horizontal output transistor or output is shorted.

wrote in :

It means the crowbar circuit is working as it is suppose to. Most
likely the horizontal output transistor or output is shorted.


Could you explain this? Thanks.

On Sat, 23 Dec 2006 22:18:47 GMT, George Jetson
wrote:


No, my question. Would this indicate a problem with the tripler? Or the
flyback? What's a good way to test? I am familiar with radio and
computer repair, but I've never worked with televisions, and I don't
have any high voltage test equipment. Thanks for the help.

Oh, and I'm aware that the voltages in a TV can kill me, so I take
proper safety precautions, so no need to remind me. Thanks for the
thought, though.

Proof by assertion? You haven't convinced me.

Do you know that the TV can kill you after it is off, after it is
unplugged, for days afterwards or maybe even weeks if the discharge
device is bad?

Do you know how to discharge the picture tube after the set is off,
without touching it electrically?

Even I don't know if the part that precedes the flyback is dangerous.
I just never touch it.

mm wrote in
:


Proof by assertion? You haven't convinced me.


Then by all means feel free to NOT offer any advice.

On Tue, 26 Dec 2006 04:40:22 GMT, George Jetson
wrote:

mm wrote in
:


Proof by assertion? You haven't convinced me.


Then by all means feel free to NOT offer any advice.

I do feel free not to offer any advice, and I also feel free to offer
it.


If you are inclined to email me
for some reason, remove NOPSAM :-)

mm wrote in
:


I do feel free not to offer any advice, and I also feel free to offer
it.


My point is that if you're not convinced of my knowledge of proper safety
precautions, then don't offer any troubleshooting advice.

Charlie Morgan wrote in
:


I don't recall you ever mentioning that you have an isolation
transformer.

CWM

You're correct. I didn't. In fact, I don't think I mentioned ANY specific
safety precautions.

Charlie Morgan wrote in
:


So, what would lead anyone to believe you know what you are doing? The
simple statement that, "I know what I'm doing?

CWM


Actually, I think there are three types of people contributing to this
thread. One, people who believe that I know what I'm doing well enough
to follow simple instructions and not kill myself. Two, people who don't
care if I know what I'm doing well enough to follow simple instructions
and not kill myself, but contribute information anyway. And three,
people who withhold information until I can somehow prove that I know
what I'm doing well enough to follow simple instructions and not kill
myself.

If you fall into one of the first two catagories, then I appreciate any
information you can give. If you fall into the last catagory, then feel
free to ignore this thread.

I'm not trying to be an asshole. But I'm certainly not going to provide
a resume to anyone who thinks I need to prove my worthiness to receive
information.

Charlie Morgan wrote in
:


If you are not "trying" to be an asshole, then I guess it comes
naturally, and without effort for you.

Really, I'm not. I just think that my safety is solely MY
responsibility, and if I'm comfortable with my level of knowledge in
this area, then anyone who wishes to help me should accept that I am.

People who have experience
working on televisions have an awareness of how how dangerous they are
for the smug amateur handyman who thinks he knows all the answers when
he doesn't even know what questions to ask. Those who want to make
sure you are not one of "those", are merely being responsible and
showing concern for your welfare. They are trying to help you without
getting you injured or killed. It's not about you or your worthiness.
It's about them being responsible and caring.

You speak as if there are numerous people who are concerned about my
level of expertise in TV repair, and I'm writing replies bashing them
all. Actually, my original response was to one particular person, mm.
Several people asked about my experience, and I politely answered.
Several people gave me safety advice, which I gladly accepted. A number
of people just accepted that I knew enough to work on TV's and offered
troubleshooting advice. As a matter of fact, YOU were the second person
to give me advice, with no thought as to my qualifications. By the way,
thanks for the advice.

On the other hand, mm flatly called me a liar, and then proceeded to
quiz me with VERY basic TV troubleshooting questions, implying that he
wouldn't answer any questions unless I passed the test. Even though I
was VERY insulted, I just told him that he didn't have to offer any
advice if he didn't think I was qualified to apply it.

That's when you stepped in. Yes, I realize everyone can read my replies,
but that doesn't mean those replies are directed to everyone. I was
specifically replying to mm, not you, or anyone else. So if I said
something to offend you specifically, I apologize. But if you're
offended by what I said to mm, please keep it to yourself. It's none of
your business.

Charlie Morgan wrote in news:ctm5p25j3ajetaf4ctpjf0p0flrnmf34sn@
4ax.com:


I don't have any idea what's on TV tonight, but I am thinking you are
going to miss it. G

CWM


Maybe, but not for lack of a working TV. I have three.

James Sweet wrote:

Do you have a multimeter, soldering tools, and a basic understanding of
how a television set works?

Do you, or do you just jizz on the circuit board?

George Jetson wrote:
Someone gave me a Samsung 27" TV, Model TXL2791F. When I tried to turn
it on it did nothing. No indication of power at all. I opened it up and
checked the fuses. All good.

You didn't say that you plugged it in, asshole, maybe you should try
doing that.


I got a copy of the schematics, and did a little circuit tracing.
There's a component called a flyback transformer, which is connected to
a component called a high voltage tripler, which is connected to the CRT
high voltage anode. There's a picture of it at
http://www.wehaveparts.com/index.cgi...=1553&cart_id=
1146478751 . The picture says it's a flyback transformer, but according
to the schematic it's the tripler. The schematic just shows a box. No
internal wiring.

The thick wire shown in the picture goes to the CRT anode, the thin wire
goes to a ground, and the hole is for a thick wire from the flyback.

That's the wire that the cable company sends the picture to the tube.

When I pull the ground off, I can turn the TV on with the switch as well
as the remote. After removing the ground, when I plug it in I hear the
slight crackling/humming sound that means the set is powering up, and a
red LED comes on that means the set is powered up but off. When I press
the ON switch or the remote, the LED turns green, and I get a tone that
means I need to set up the time, channels, etc. I get no picture, of
course, because there's no voltage to the CRT, but everything else seems
to indicate that the TV is starting to power up normally.

If there is no voltage to the CRT, then how the **** would you know
that the time and channels need to be set up.

When the ground wire is connected, presing the switch or the remote gets no
reaction at all.

That's probably because the ground wire is connected to the switch,
stupid.

No, my question. Would this indicate a problem with the tripler? Or the
flyback? What's a good way to test? I am familiar with radio and
computer repair, but I've never worked with televisions, and I don't
have any high voltage test equipment. Thanks for the help.

Well then, you're ****ed.

Oh, and I'm aware that the voltages in a TV can kill me, so I take
proper safety precautions, so no need to remind me. Thanks for the
thought, though.

**** it and just throw it away and buy a Protron.

George Jetson wrote:
Charlie Morgan wrote in
news:ctm5p25j3ajetaf4ctpjf0p0flrnmf34sn@ 4ax.com:


I don't have any idea what's on TV tonight, but I am thinking you
are going to miss it. G

CWM


Maybe, but not for lack of a working TV. I have three.

One of the more common (totally dead) failures I see is a cracked circuit board
which interrupts some of the circuit traces. This is common in the area of the
flyback due to its weight. If the set is dropped or otherwise subjected to
sufficient G-forces the weight of the flyback causes enough board flex to crack
it. Sometimes these are easy to see, sometimes finding all of them can be a
real tough nut.

I'll ignore everything else you wrote, except this. I think you really
don't know this.

"Malissa Baldwin" wrote in
oups.com:


If there is no voltage to the CRT, then how the **** would you know
that the time and channels need to be set up.


Remember what I said? "I get a TONE that means I need to set up the time,
channels, etc." A tone. As in sound. Sounds don't go through the CRT, you
feeble minded bitch.

Malissa Baldwin wrote:

You didn't say that you plugged it in, asshole, maybe you should try
doing that.

That's the wire that the cable company sends the picture to the tube.


If there is no voltage to the CRT, then how the **** would you know
that the time and channels need to be set up.

That's probably because the ground wire is connected to the switch,
stupid.

Well then, you're ****ed.


**** it and just throw it away and buy a Protron.


Take a ****, have an orgasm, do what it takes, but lose that attitude.

"Rick Brandt" wrote in
:


One of the more common (totally dead) failures I see is a cracked
circuit board which interrupts some of the circuit traces. This is
common in the area of the flyback due to its weight. If the set is
dropped or otherwise subjected to sufficient G-forces the weight of
the flyback causes enough board flex to crack it. Sometimes these are
easy to see, sometimes finding all of them can be a real tough nut.


The set is only a few years old, and the flyback is relatively light. I
also looked at the circuit card and didn't see any marks or cracks at
all. And to be honest, I'm not sure it's the flyback. There's a
component called a High Voltage Tripler that sits between the flyback
and the CRT. When I take the tripler out of the circuit the set powers
up and goes through a short diagnostic. With the tripler in it does
nothing at all.

On the schematic the tripler is just a box, with an input, output, and
ground. If the triler is some kind of step up transformer, wouldn't the
resistance across the input and output be infinity? I measured it at a
little over a hundred ohms. Would that indicate a shorted tripler?
That's what I suspect, but I don't know exactly how the tripler is set
up. Any advice?

George Jetson wrote:
The set is only a few years old, and the flyback is relatively light.
I also looked at the circuit card and didn't see any marks or cracks
at all. And to be honest, I'm not sure it's the flyback. There's a
component called a High Voltage Tripler that sits between the flyback
and the CRT. When I take the tripler out of the circuit the set powers
up and goes through a short diagnostic. With the tripler in it does
nothing at all.

On the schematic the tripler is just a box, with an input, output, and
ground. If the triler is some kind of step up transformer, wouldn't
the resistance across the input and output be infinity? I measured it
at a little over a hundred ohms. Would that indicate a shorted
tripler? That's what I suspect, but I don't know exactly how the
tripler is set up. Any advice?

Well any time you take a component out of the circuit and get more functionality
than when it is in place that is pretty good evidence that you are in the right
area, but the real problem might be downstream of the tripler and removing it
from the circuit might also be taking other things out of the circuit that are
the real problem.

That's what sucks about trying to fix this stuff as a consumer. At the shop
they would try the tripler and if that wasn't it they could grab any of a
hundred other parts at their disposal and try them. Ordering your first best
guess on-line, waiting for it to arrive, and then trying it only to find that it
doesn't fix the problem is a hell of a way to make progress. Short of seeing
parts that are visibly damaged it really is a crap-shoot.

"Rick Brandt" wrote in
t:


Well any time you take a component out of the circuit and get more
functionality than when it is in place that is pretty good evidence
that you are in the right area, but the real problem might be
downstream of the tripler and removing it from the circuit might also
be taking other things out of the circuit that are the real problem.

That's what sucks about trying to fix this stuff as a consumer. At
the shop they would try the tripler and if that wasn't it they could
grab any of a hundred other parts at their disposal and try them.
Ordering your first best guess on-line, waiting for it to arrive, and
then trying it only to find that it doesn't fix the problem is a hell
of a way to make progress. Short of seeing parts that are visibly
damaged it really is a crap-shoot.


If I knew what was inside the tripler I could test it. I have a
schematic of the flyback, but I would have to unsolder it to test, and
I'm trying to avoid that. If I can test the tripler and it turns out
bad, I can avoid unsoldering the flyback.

George Jetson wrote:
"Rick Brandt" wrote in
t:

Well any time you take a component out of the circuit and get more
functionality than when it is in place that is pretty good evidence
that you are in the right area, but the real problem might be
downstream of the tripler and removing it from the circuit might also
be taking other things out of the circuit that are the real problem.

That's what sucks about trying to fix this stuff as a consumer. At
the shop they would try the tripler and if that wasn't it they could
grab any of a hundred other parts at their disposal and try them.
Ordering your first best guess on-line, waiting for it to arrive, and
then trying it only to find that it doesn't fix the problem is a hell
of a way to make progress. Short of seeing parts that are visibly
damaged it really is a crap-shoot.


If I knew what was inside the tripler I could test it. I have a
schematic of the flyback, but I would have to unsolder it to test, and
I'm trying to avoid that. If I can test the tripler and it turns out
bad, I can avoid unsoldering the flyback.


Hi..

http://tpub.com/neets/book7/27m.htm

Ken

Ken Weitzel wrote in news:ibDkh.530079$5R2.359199
@pd7urf3no:



Hi..

http://tpub.com/neets/book7/27m.htm

Ken



Thanks for the info. I tested it, and the tripler is bad. It's shorted
between the primary and the secondary. I'll order a new one and hook it up,
and let everyone in the newsgroup know if it worked. Assuming I don't
electrocute myself.