Someone gave me a Samsung 27" TV, Model TXL2791F. When I tried to turn
it on it did nothing. No indication of power at all. I opened it up and
checked the fuses. All good.

I got a copy of the schematics, and did a little circuit tracing.
There's a component called a flyback transformer, which is connected to
a component called a high voltage tripler, which is connected to the CRT
high voltage anode. There's a picture of it at
http://www.wehaveparts.com/index.cgi...=1553&cart_id=
1146478751 . The picture says it's a flyback transformer, but according
to the schematic it's the tripler. The schematic just shows a box. No
internal wiring.

The thick wire shown in the picture goes to the CRT anode, the thin wire
goes to a ground, and the hole is for a thick wire from the flyback.

When I pull the ground off, I can turn the TV on with the switch as well
as the remote. After removing the ground, when I plug it in I hear the
slight crackling/humming sound that means the set is powering up, and a
red LED comes on that means the set is powered up but off. When I press
the ON switch or the remote, the LED turns green, and I get a tone that
means I need to set up the time, channels, etc. I get no picture, of
course, because there's no voltage to the CRT, but everything else seems
to indicate that the TV is starting to power up normally. When the
ground wire is connected, presing the switch or the remote gets no
reaction at all.

No, my question. Would this indicate a problem with the tripler? Or the
flyback? What's a good way to test? I am familiar with radio and
computer repair, but I've never worked with televisions, and I don't
have any high voltage test equipment. Thanks for the help.

Oh, and I'm aware that the voltages in a TV can kill me, so I take
proper safety precautions, so no need to remind me. Thanks for the
thought, though.

George Jetson wrote:
Someone gave me a Samsung 27" TV, Model TXL2791F. When I tried to turn
it on it did nothing. No indication of power at all. I opened it up and
checked the fuses. All good.

I got a copy of the schematics, and did a little circuit tracing.
There's a component called a flyback transformer, which is connected to
a component called a high voltage tripler, which is connected to the CRT
high voltage anode. There's a picture of it at
http://www.wehaveparts.com/index.cgi...=1553&cart_id=
1146478751 . The picture says it's a flyback transformer, but according
to the schematic it's the tripler. The schematic just shows a box. No
internal wiring.

The thick wire shown in the picture goes to the CRT anode, the thin wire
goes to a ground, and the hole is for a thick wire from the flyback.

When I pull the ground off, I can turn the TV on with the switch as well
as the remote. After removing the ground, when I plug it in I hear the
slight crackling/humming sound that means the set is powering up, and a
red LED comes on that means the set is powered up but off. When I press
the ON switch or the remote, the LED turns green, and I get a tone that
means I need to set up the time, channels, etc. I get no picture, of
course, because there's no voltage to the CRT, but everything else seems
to indicate that the TV is starting to power up normally. When the
ground wire is connected, presing the switch or the remote gets no
reaction at all.

No, my question. Would this indicate a problem with the tripler? Or the
flyback? What's a good way to test? I am familiar with radio and
computer repair, but I've never worked with televisions, and I don't
have any high voltage test equipment. Thanks for the help.

Oh, and I'm aware that the voltages in a TV can kill me, so I take
proper safety precautions, so no need to remind me. Thanks for the
thought, though.
in the model your speaking of there is only a FLYBACK transformer, the
tripler is built in the problem your having is the flyback
replace it and you should be good to go VERY VERY comon problem on sam dung

David Naylor wrote in
news
in the model your speaking of there is only a FLYBACK transformer, the
tripler is built in the problem your having is the flyback
replace it and you should be good to go VERY VERY comon problem on
sam dung


It appears to be two distinct components. This is the flyback:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c9...ee/flyback.jpg

This is the tripler:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c9...ee/tripler.jpg

How do I test it to see which it is? Thanks.

note that a neon ac tester will light up in the presence of a working
flyback. but don't play with one just yet, read up on your
troubleshooting questions, please see:
http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/tvfaq.htm
which is from:
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_Repair.html

George Jetson wrote:
Someone gave me a Samsung 27" TV, Model TXL2791F. When I tried to turn
it on it did nothing. No indication of power at all. I opened it up and
checked the fuses. All good.

I got a copy of the schematics, and did a little circuit tracing.
There's a component called a flyback transformer, which is connected to
a component called a high voltage tripler, which is connected to the CRT
high voltage anode. There's a picture of it at
http://www.wehaveparts.com/index.cgi...=1553&cart_id=
1146478751 . The picture says it's a flyback transformer, but according
to the schematic it's the tripler. The schematic just shows a box. No
internal wiring.

The thick wire shown in the picture goes to the CRT anode, the thin wire
goes to a ground, and the hole is for a thick wire from the flyback.

When I pull the ground off, I can turn the TV on with the switch as well
as the remote. After removing the ground, when I plug it in I hear the
slight crackling/humming sound that means the set is powering up, and a
red LED comes on that means the set is powered up but off. When I press
the ON switch or the remote, the LED turns green, and I get a tone that
means I need to set up the time, channels, etc. I get no picture, of
course, because there's no voltage to the CRT, but everything else seems
to indicate that the TV is starting to power up normally. When the
ground wire is connected, presing the switch or the remote gets no
reaction at all.

No, my question. Would this indicate a problem with the tripler? Or the
flyback? What's a good way to test? I am familiar with radio and
computer repair, but I've never worked with televisions, and I don't
have any high voltage test equipment. Thanks for the help.

Oh, and I'm aware that the voltages in a TV can kill me, so I take
proper safety precautions, so no need to remind me. Thanks for the
thought, though.

On Sat, 23 Dec 2006 22:18:47 GMT, George Jetson
put finger to keyboard and composed:

Someone gave me a Samsung 27" TV, Model TXL2791F. When I tried to turn
it on it did nothing. No indication of power at all. I opened it up and
checked the fuses. All good.

I got a copy of the schematics, and did a little circuit tracing.
There's a component called a flyback transformer, which is connected to
a component called a high voltage tripler, which is connected to the CRT
high voltage anode. There's a picture of it at
http://www.wehaveparts.com/index.cgi...=1553&cart_id=
1146478751 . The picture says it's a flyback transformer, but according
to the schematic it's the tripler. The schematic just shows a box. No
internal wiring.

The HR Diemen HR8720 appears to be an equivalent:
http://www.hrdiemen.es/products/inde...roduct&id=7357

FBT wiring diagram with voltages:
http://www.hrdiemen.es/products/inde...mas/HR8720.gif

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

It means the crowbar circuit is working as it is suppose to. Most
likely the horizontal output transistor or output is shorted.

wrote in :

It means the crowbar circuit is working as it is suppose to. Most
likely the horizontal output transistor or output is shorted.


Could you explain this? Thanks.

On Sat, 23 Dec 2006 22:18:47 GMT, George Jetson
wrote:


No, my question. Would this indicate a problem with the tripler? Or the
flyback? What's a good way to test? I am familiar with radio and
computer repair, but I've never worked with televisions, and I don't
have any high voltage test equipment. Thanks for the help.

Oh, and I'm aware that the voltages in a TV can kill me, so I take
proper safety precautions, so no need to remind me. Thanks for the
thought, though.

Proof by assertion? You haven't convinced me.

Do you know that the TV can kill you after it is off, after it is
unplugged, for days afterwards or maybe even weeks if the discharge
device is bad?

Do you know how to discharge the picture tube after the set is off,
without touching it electrically?

Even I don't know if the part that precedes the flyback is dangerous.
I just never touch it.

mm wrote in
:


Proof by assertion? You haven't convinced me.


Then by all means feel free to NOT offer any advice.

On Tue, 26 Dec 2006 04:40:22 GMT, George Jetson
wrote:

mm wrote in
:


Proof by assertion? You haven't convinced me.


Then by all means feel free to NOT offer any advice.

I do feel free not to offer any advice, and I also feel free to offer
it.


If you are inclined to email me
for some reason, remove NOPSAM :-)

mm wrote in
:


I do feel free not to offer any advice, and I also feel free to offer
it.


My point is that if you're not convinced of my knowledge of proper safety
precautions, then don't offer any troubleshooting advice.

On Tue, 26 Dec 2006 13:45:14 GMT, George Jetson
wrote:

mm wrote in
:


I do feel free not to offer any advice, and I also feel free to offer
it.


My point is that if you're not convinced of my knowledge of proper safety
precautions, then don't offer any troubleshooting advice.

I got your point.

You don't seem to have gotten mine. I'll offer advice based on
whether I want to or not, not based on your particular desires.

Other people read this list. Not just you.


If you are inclined to email me
for some reason, remove NOPSAM :-)

George Jetson wrote:
Someone gave me a Samsung 27" TV, Model TXL2791F. When I tried to turn
it on it did nothing. No indication of power at all. I opened it up and
checked the fuses. All good.

You didn't say that you plugged it in, asshole, maybe you should try
doing that.


I got a copy of the schematics, and did a little circuit tracing.
There's a component called a flyback transformer, which is connected to
a component called a high voltage tripler, which is connected to the CRT
high voltage anode. There's a picture of it at
http://www.wehaveparts.com/index.cgi...=1553&cart_id=
1146478751 . The picture says it's a flyback transformer, but according
to the schematic it's the tripler. The schematic just shows a box. No
internal wiring.

The thick wire shown in the picture goes to the CRT anode, the thin wire
goes to a ground, and the hole is for a thick wire from the flyback.

That's the wire that the cable company sends the picture to the tube.

When I pull the ground off, I can turn the TV on with the switch as well
as the remote. After removing the ground, when I plug it in I hear the
slight crackling/humming sound that means the set is powering up, and a
red LED comes on that means the set is powered up but off. When I press
the ON switch or the remote, the LED turns green, and I get a tone that
means I need to set up the time, channels, etc. I get no picture, of
course, because there's no voltage to the CRT, but everything else seems
to indicate that the TV is starting to power up normally.

If there is no voltage to the CRT, then how the **** would you know
that the time and channels need to be set up.

When the ground wire is connected, presing the switch or the remote gets no
reaction at all.

That's probably because the ground wire is connected to the switch,
stupid.

No, my question. Would this indicate a problem with the tripler? Or the
flyback? What's a good way to test? I am familiar with radio and
computer repair, but I've never worked with televisions, and I don't
have any high voltage test equipment. Thanks for the help.

Well then, you're ****ed.

Oh, and I'm aware that the voltages in a TV can kill me, so I take
proper safety precautions, so no need to remind me. Thanks for the
thought, though.

**** it and just throw it away and buy a Protron.

I'll ignore everything else you wrote, except this. I think you really
don't know this.

"Malissa Baldwin" wrote in
oups.com:


If there is no voltage to the CRT, then how the **** would you know
that the time and channels need to be set up.


Remember what I said? "I get a TONE that means I need to set up the time,
channels, etc." A tone. As in sound. Sounds don't go through the CRT, you
feeble minded bitch.

Malissa Baldwin wrote:

You didn't say that you plugged it in, asshole, maybe you should try
doing that.

That's the wire that the cable company sends the picture to the tube.


If there is no voltage to the CRT, then how the **** would you know
that the time and channels need to be set up.

That's probably because the ground wire is connected to the switch,
stupid.

Well then, you're ****ed.


**** it and just throw it away and buy a Protron.


Take a ****, have an orgasm, do what it takes, but lose that attitude.

first things first. have you performed the test with the HOT removed
and a 60-100watt bulb across c-e? have you measured the b+? without
these simple tests you could be wasting time or money on the tripler or
whatever. post results.

..B