[RickWeb]

Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. That's it.
__ __
_|_ _______________ _|_
drywall

Thanks,

[DerbyDad03]

On Nov 11, 8:38*am, RickWeb wrote:
Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. *They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. *The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. *The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? *My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. *If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. *That's it.
__ * * * * * * * * * * * * * * __
_|_ _______________ _|_
* * * * * * *drywall

Thanks,

If you are worried about sagging (I would be) you could put some 1 x 2
furring strips, standing on edge, on the back of the drywall to keep
it rigid.

Another concern is how easily drywall chips and gouges, I would be
concerned that it would be easily damaged as you remove/insert it. I
realize that you won't be doing it very often, but once you chip a
corner, you might have trouble repairing it and hiding the repair.

[RickWeb]

On Nov 11, 11:10*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Nov 11, 8:38*am, RickWeb wrote:



Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. *They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. *The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. *The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? *My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. *If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. *That's it.
__ * * * * * * * * * * * * * * __
_|_ _______________ _|_
* * * * * * *drywall

Thanks,

If you are worried about sagging (I would be) you could put some 1 x 2
furring strips, standing on edge, on the back of the drywall to keep
it rigid.

Another concern is how easily drywall chips and gouges, I would be
concerned that it would be easily damaged as you remove/insert it. I
realize that you won't be doing it very often, but once you chip a
corner, you might have trouble repairing it and hiding the repair.

Good idea to add the furring strips. As you noted, the edges are a
concern. The pieces of drywall will not be removed often
(hopefully). I thought about adding some type of tape (Tuck Tape
maybe) to the cut edges to prevent any gypsum from falling. Of
course, the tuck tape will be covered by the edge of the I-Beam.

[dpb]

RickWeb wrote:
....
...some type of tape (Tuck Tape maybe) ...

WTH is "Tuck" tape???

Seems like lot of work for not a lot of gain over the traditional way.
Is there really any need for access other than along a few plumbing runs?

--

[DerbyDad03]

On Nov 11, 8:38*am, RickWeb wrote:
Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. *They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. *The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. *The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? *My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. *If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. *That's it.
__ * * * * * * * * * * * * * * __
_|_ _______________ _|_
* * * * * * *drywall

Thanks,

As for the plumbing runs, make sure the cold water pipes are insulated
so that they don't sweat and drip on the back of the drywall.

[Pat[_5_]]

"RickWeb" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. That's it.
__ __
_|_ _______________ _|_
drywall

Thanks,

Sheetrock is easy to repair. Just install it and if you ever need access
cut a hole. Replacing an entire ceiling is inexpensive.

[RickWeb]

On Nov 11, 11:34*am, dpb wrote:
RickWeb wrote:

...

...some type of tape (Tuck Tape maybe) *...

WTH is "Tuck" tape???

Seems like lot of work for not a lot of gain over the traditional way.
Is there really any need for access other than along a few plumbing runs?

--

Ever install foam board, vapor barrier or tyvek? Tuck tape is used as
a sealant here in Canada. It creates a water and air tight seal
between materials.

As for access, all my wires for sound and video projection run along
the ceiling also.

[rmorton[_3_]]

RickWeb wrote:
Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. That's it.
__ __
_|_ _______________ _|_
drywall

Thanks,
Rather than using drywall, have you considered using plywood and
staining it a contrasting color to the exposed I-beams? Might add an
interesting effect to your ceiling at only a slight increase in cost IMHO

[dpb]

RickWeb wrote:
On Nov 11, 11:34 am, dpb wrote:
RickWeb wrote:

...

...some type of tape (Tuck Tape maybe) ...
WTH is "Tuck" tape???

Seems like lot of work for not a lot of gain over the traditional way.
Is there really any need for access other than along a few plumbing runs?

--

Ever install foam board, vapor barrier or tyvek? Tuck tape is used as
a sealant here in Canada. It creates a water and air tight seal
between materials.

Oh, ok, that's a north-of-the-border one...it's usually "Tyvek tape"
here even for 3M or somebody else's variety...

As for access, all my wires for sound and video projection run along
the ceiling also.

I don't know, I can't get excited over slab sheetrock in lieu of other
panels as being any step forward but suit yourself...it'll be a pita
when it does come time to get to whatever it is that needs access methinks.

You could build the frame like you've outlined (but a lot less stout, to
boot) and use standard ceiling panels that are a whole lot lighter,
better sound isolation and less likely to break and/or chip and shed
sheetrock dust all over if you're goal is simply not have the t-bar.

--

[RicodJour]

On Nov 11, 8:38*am, RickWeb wrote:
Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. *They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. *The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. *The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? *My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. *If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. *That's it.
__ * * * * * * * * * * * * * * __
_|_ _______________ _|_
* * * * * * *drywall

24" wide pieces will definitely sag. When USG indicates an allowable
span of 24" that is with a fully attached piece of drywall, attached
to more than two joists, and run perpendicularly to the joists.

If you have a few runs that need accessibility, can't you just install
faux beams to cover them? That sounds like the look you're going for
and would be simpler. If it is at all possible, you should have the
wiring running in one or two chases across the ceiling.

R

[DerbyDad03]

On Nov 11, 9:45*am, "Pat" wrote:
"RickWeb" wrote in message

...





Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. *They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. *The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. *The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? *My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. *If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. *That's it.
__ * * * * * * * * * * * * * * __
_|_ _______________ _|_
* * * * * * drywall

Thanks,

Sheetrock is easy to repair. *Just install it and if you ever need access
cut a hole. *Replacing an entire ceiling is inexpensive.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Replacing an entire ceiling is inexpensive

Material wise, perhaps, but labor has a price - even if you are doing
it yourself.

Free DIY labor has other costs, such as time away from family and
friends or activities you enjoy. It's a quality of life issue.

It could even have monetary costs if you could be making money during
the time you're replacing the ceiling.

I like doing it myself, but when I stayed home to remodel the bathroom
while the rest of the family went skiing, there was indeed a cost - a
cost that has no payback period.

[JIMMIE]

On Nov 11, 8:38*am, RickWeb wrote:
Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. *They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. *The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. *The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? *My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. *If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. *That's it.
__ * * * * * * * * * * * * * * __
_|_ _______________ _|_
* * * * * * *drywall

Thanks,

One of my acquaintances at work did pretty much what you are talking
about. He used the wood beams but hung 2x8 ft acoustical panels. The
panels were a cloth covered cellulose material. The one thing I didnt
like about it was he made the rails that the panels set on too thick.
I think he used 1/2 plywood and this looks a little bulky to me 1/4
would have looked a lot better. Probably could think of some others
that would look even better still.

Jimmie


Jimmie

[Smitty Two]

In article ,
dpb wrote:

RickWeb wrote:
On Nov 11, 11:34 am, dpb wrote:
RickWeb wrote:

...

...some type of tape (Tuck Tape maybe) ...
WTH is "Tuck" tape???

Seems like lot of work for not a lot of gain over the traditional way.
Is there really any need for access other than along a few plumbing runs?

--

Ever install foam board, vapor barrier or tyvek? Tuck tape is used as
a sealant here in Canada. It creates a water and air tight seal
between materials.

Oh, ok, that's a north-of-the-border one...it's usually "Tyvek tape"
here even for 3M or somebody else's variety...


Tuck is a brand. They make a lot of different kinds of tape. We use
their masking tape at work for a particular assembly job because it
leaves no residue.

As for access, all my wires for sound and video projection run along
the ceiling also.

I don't know, I can't get excited over slab sheetrock in lieu of other
panels as being any step forward but suit yourself...it'll be a pita
when it does come time to get to whatever it is that needs access methinks.

You could build the frame like you've outlined (but a lot less stout, to
boot) and use standard ceiling panels that are a whole lot lighter,
better sound isolation and less likely to break and/or chip and shed
sheetrock dust all over if you're goal is simply not have the t-bar.

--

[EXT]

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
dpb wrote:

RickWeb wrote:
On Nov 11, 11:34 am, dpb wrote:
RickWeb wrote:

...

...some type of tape (Tuck Tape maybe) ...
WTH is "Tuck" tape???

Seems like lot of work for not a lot of gain over the
traditional way. Is there really any need for access other than
along a few plumbing runs?

--

Ever install foam board, vapor barrier or tyvek? Tuck tape is
used as a sealant here in Canada. It creates a water and air
tight seal between materials.

Oh, ok, that's a north-of-the-border one...it's usually "Tyvek tape"
here even for 3M or somebody else's variety...


Tuck is a brand. They make a lot of different kinds of tape. We use
their masking tape at work for a particular assembly job because it
leaves no residue.

That is right. In my teens, 50 years ago, I worked in my fathers autobody
repair shop. I did all the painting prep work. We used Tuck brand masking
tape because of its low tack, especially as two and three toned (two and
three colours on a car) called for masking over fresh paint. Scotch tape was
used when we needed a high tack tape for masking over rubber and other
materials that often caused tape to release. So calling Tyvek or vapor
barrier tape "Tuck tape" is the same as using a brand name such as Kleenex
or Band-Aid, to describe a product. Other companies make these products
also.

[dpb]

EXT wrote:
Smitty Two wrote:
....
Tuck is a brand. They make a lot of different kinds of tape. We use
their masking tape at work for a particular assembly job because it
leaves no residue.

That is right. In my teens, 50 years ago, I worked in my fathers
autobody repair shop. I did all the painting prep work. We used Tuck
brand masking tape because of its low tack, ...

Must be an areal distribution thing; I don't believe I've ever seen a
"Tuck" branded tape of any variety even in the autobody supply house.
Next time I see him I'll ask Jerry (HS cohort w/ bodyshop in town) if he
knows of them (if'en I can remember anything that long, that is... )

--

[Ken]

On Nov 11, 8:38*am, RickWeb wrote:
Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. *They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. *The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. *The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? *My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. *If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. *That's it.
__ * * * * * * * * * * * * * * __
_|_ _______________ _|_
* * * * * * *drywall

Thanks,

The thing that would worry me is if the drywall (or other relatively
heavy material) is just resting on the ledges you have created, there
is a chance you could bump it with something and it comes falling
down. A 2x4' ceiling tile is one thing to fall on your head, a big
piece of drywall is quite another.

Ken

[dpb]

dpb wrote:
....
You could build the frame like you've outlined (but a lot less stout, to
boot) and use standard ceiling panels that are a whole lot lighter,
better sound isolation and less likely to break and/or chip and shed
sheetrock dust all over if you're goal is simply not have the t-bar.
....

OBTW, what were/are you planning for lighting?

--

[Tony Hwang]

RickWeb wrote:
On Nov 11, 11:34 am, wrote:
RickWeb wrote:

...

...some type of tape (Tuck Tape maybe) ...

WTH is "Tuck" tape???

Seems like lot of work for not a lot of gain over the traditional way.
Is there really any need for access other than along a few plumbing runs?

--

Ever install foam board, vapor barrier or tyvek? Tuck tape is used as
a sealant here in Canada. It creates a water and air tight seal
between materials.

As for access, all my wires for sound and video projection run along
the ceiling also.
Hmmm,
Never saw a suspended drywall ceiling. All my cables are in a trough
blending well with finished basement wall and ceiling(9 feet high).
If major access is needed for some reason, that'll be after my life.
When I retired I had this house custom built to my spec. future proof
wired house.

[LdB]

RickWeb wrote:
Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. That's it.
__ __
_|_ _______________ _|_
drywall

Thanks,

In the basement of my last house I made T-bar out of oak then used
ceiling tiles. Looked very good. I'm sure my ex wife appreciates all
the work I did.

I wouldn't use drywall in place of tiles, looks cheap. You can buy a
1/2" low sag drywall made for ceilings if you insist. I used that
stuff in my new house, it works.

As for the guy that said he wouldn't worry about access to the
ceiling, I used to love the looks on peoples faces when I told them
the drywall ceiling's gotta go. I don't know what people are
thinking. There is know way of knowing what the future is hiding.
Sooner or later someone is going to want access into the ceiling.

LdB

[DerbyDad03]

On Nov 11, 1:42*pm, LdB wrote:
RickWeb wrote:
Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. *They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. *The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. *The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? *My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. *If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. *That's it.
__ * * * * * * * * * * * * * * __
_|_ _______________ _|_
* * * * * * *drywall

Thanks,

In the basement of my last house I made T-bar out of oak then used
ceiling tiles. Looked very good. I'm sure my ex wife appreciates all
the work I did.

I wouldn't use drywall in place of tiles, looks cheap. *You can buy a
1/2" low sag drywall made for ceilings if you insist. I used that
stuff in my new house, it works.

As for the guy that said he wouldn't worry about access to the
ceiling, I used to love the looks on peoples faces when I told them
the drywall ceiling's *gotta go. *I don't know what people are
thinking. There is know way of knowing what the future is hiding.
Sooner or later someone is going to want access into *the *ceiling.

LdB- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sooner or later someone is going to want access into the
ceiling.

I had the same thought when I added a bathroom in my basement. It is
the only section where the ceiling is drywalled. Other than pipes and
wires, the only 2 items that might require access are the gas shutoff
and the water pressure reducer.

When I drywalled the ceiling I made the conscious decision to put in a
small access panel for the gas valve, but buried the PRV. "If I need
to get to it, I'll deal with it then."

10 years later, when I had to replace the PRV, I cut a hole, replaced
the part and added an access panel in case I ever have to replace it
again. It was the exact same amount of work as if I have installed the
access panel when I built the bathroom, but I didn't want to take the
time to do it based on the *chance* that I would need to replace the
PRV.

[Nate Nagel]

RickWeb wrote:
Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. That's it.
__ __
_|_ _______________ _|_
drywall

Thanks,

If you really want to do that you'll need something stiffer than
drywall. Furniture-grade plywood maybe?

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[Nate Nagel]

rmorton wrote:
RickWeb wrote:
Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. That's it.
__ __
_|_ _______________ _|_
drywall

Thanks,
Rather than using drywall, have you considered using plywood and
staining it a contrasting color to the exposed I-beams? Might add an
interesting effect to your ceiling at only a slight increase in cost IMHO

you know, I just got a great idea. I have an old drop ceiling in my
basement and I wish someone had brought this up before I bought a whole
package of replacement tiles. I should have bought some plywood instead
and stained and varnished them for a nicer effect. plywood cut to size
of standard ceiling tile. I think it might make a nice effect.

I have also seen drop in tiles that look like an old pressed tin
ceiling, the only difference is you still use the standard T-bar grid.
That's another option, although I expect those to be expensive.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[benick[_2_]]

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
RickWeb wrote:
Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. That's it.
__ __
_|_ _______________ _|_
drywall

Thanks,

If you really want to do that you'll need something stiffer than drywall.
Furniture-grade plywood maybe?

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Don't use drywall...It WILL sag and take on a permanent rounded
appearance...It will also bleed dust and look very cheap....use plywood or
ceiling tiles....

[Tony Hwang]

benick wrote:

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
RickWeb wrote:
Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. That's it.
__ __
_|_ _______________ _|_
drywall

Thanks,

If you really want to do that you'll need something stiffer than
drywall. Furniture-grade plywood maybe?

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Don't use drywall...It WILL sag and take on a permanent rounded
appearance...It will also bleed dust and look very cheap....use plywood
or ceiling tiles....
Hi,
And if and when water gets to it......

[benick[_2_]]

"Malcolm Hoar" wrote in message
...
In article , "benick"
wrote:
Don't use drywall...It WILL sag and take on a permanent rounded
appearance...It will also bleed dust and look very cheap....use plywood or
ceiling tiles....

Plywood? What about fire resistance ?

What about it ??? You've never seen a wood ceiling in a house ??? The only
place you need a fire resistant ceiling is in a garage with living space
above it and in some places kitchen ceilings with living space above it
are required to have 5/8 fireshield sheetrock.....HTH...

[RicodJour]

On Nov 12, 1:20*am, "benick" wrote:
"Malcolm Hoar" wrote in message


Plywood? What about fire resistance ?

What about it ??? You've never seen a wood ceiling in a house ??? The only
place you need a fire resistant ceiling is in a garage with living space
above it and in some places kitchen ceilings with living space above it
are required to have 5/8 fireshield sheetrock.....HTH...

And, regardless of code, over furnaces. Not as much of an issue with
newer high efficiency units, but the old boilers and burners kicked
off a lot of heat, which would dry out the wood and over time would
lower the combustion temperature of the framing.

R

[Jim Elbrecht]

On Thu, 12 Nov 2009 15:16:51 GMT, (Malcolm Hoar)
wrote:

In article , "benick" wrote:
Plywood? What about fire resistance ?

What about it ??? You've never seen a wood ceiling in a house ???

Not in construction that's less than 20 years old.

Get out much? Pretty popular in the Adirondacks- simulating the
great camps of the last century.

Jim

[MedEngineer]

On Nov 11, 8:38*am, RickWeb wrote:
Hi,

I have an idea for my basement ceiling and was wondering if anyone has
done something similar. I want access to the wires, pipes etc in the
basement ceiling and do not want to use the typical t-bar ceiling.

I was thinking about making ten I-Beams about 4 or 5 inches in height
out of wood and installing then to my floor joists. *They would be
spaced about 24" apart. I then plan to rest a piece of drywall (about
26" wide) on the top edge of the bottom plate of each I-Beam. *The
drywall would be suspended and easily removable. *The bottom plate of
the I-Beam is then stained to match the fireplace mantle, wet bar, and
built in book shelfs. I will need about ten I-Beams at 12 feet in
length (think of these as Main-T's) and I will then place shorter
wooden I-Beams as cross T's.

Anyone see an issue with this method? *My only concern is the sagging
of the drywall. *If it is spaced no more than 24" apart, do you think
it will sag?

So...wooden I-beams like below with drywall resting on the lower plate
of each I-Beam. *That's it.
__ * * * * * * * * * * * * * * __
_|_ _______________ _|_
* * * * * * *drywall

Thanks,

Medical and electronic clean rooms have used 2' x 4' vinyl faced 1/2"
drywall panels for drop ceilings for many years with no sagging issues
with commercial "T" and "L" shape drop ceiling grid supporting the
panel on 4 sides. One of the local big box lumberyards has even begun
selling pre-cut 2' x 4' panels. It would be a good idea to either
tape or paint seal the edges of the drywall as well as painting a few
extra panels in case any were to get damaged on removal in the
future. We always keep a few extra on hand.

I'm planning to do the same in my basement with the better looking
custom made wood grid stained to contrast. If you do have any
mositure issues (high humidity summers, etc.) gluing ribs to the back
would be a very good idea.