HI

I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.

Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
the build up. Can any one confirm?

Thanks

Jim

"Jim Laumann" wrote in message
...
HI

I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.

Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
the build up. Can any one confirm?


Doesn't have to be that harsh an alkali - use something like TSP -90 wall
cleaner, or a dilute version sold as "Simple Green" is good as well.
Non-aluminum plate big enough to hold the blade - plastic at my house -
solution to cover.
Five minutes and perhaps a run at the worst crap with a toothbrush, then a
rinse and dry.

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 20:50:01 GMT, Jim Laumann
wrote:

I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.

Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
the build up. Can any one confirm?


It will get the sap off but it's messy and kind of a pain. I don't
know if cleaning the blade will solve the problem you describe.
Another type of blade better suited for ripping may be the answer.
We rarely (never) clean our blades but they are always clean when we
get them back from the sharpener guy. :-) I don't know what he uses.

Mike O.

I use spary carburator cleaner to remove pitch etc. stuff runs
off...don't breathe too much of it.
It'll clean your lungs permanently.

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 20:50:01 GMT, Jim Laumann
wrote:


Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
the build up. Can any one confirm?

Thanks

Jim

Yes, I use oven cleaner. It will remove any printing on the blade
too.

Thunder

Yes some use it and some use Simple Green. I prefer to use a product
specifically formulated for the task and that leaves a protective film on
the blade. The other products may cause rust. CMT's Formula 2050.
Environmentally friendly, non toxic, works real fast, and my first bottle
lasted 3 years.


"Jim Laumann" wrote in message
...
HI

I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.

Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
the build up. Can any one confirm?

Thanks

Jim

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 23:21:59 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

Yes some use it and some use Simple Green. I prefer to use a product
specifically formulated for the task and that leaves a protective film on
the blade. The other products may cause rust. CMT's Formula 2050.
Environmentally friendly, non toxic, works real fast, and my first bottle
lasted 3 years.

When I think about it, blades cleaned in Simple Green or washing soda
still need to be sprayed with Boeshield or something similar to
prevent rust. The CMT product probably costs less per application
than the others, if you consider the total job cost.

Barry

"Ba r r y" wrote in message
...

When I think about it, blades cleaned in Simple Green or washing soda
still need to be sprayed with Boeshield or something similar to
prevent rust. The CMT product probably costs less per application
than the others, if you consider the total job cost.


Every time I use a router bit I spray it down with the CMT cleaner. Plus,
I use the cleaner for everything. It is great for cleaning the smoke stain
off the stainless steel on my Smoker. ;~)

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 20:50:01 GMT, the inscrutable Jim Laumann
spake:

HI

I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.

Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
the build up. Can any one confirm?

Simple Green is my favorite. Remove the blade, soak for a few minutes
in a large pie tin, scrub gently with an old used (wife's/kid's)
toothbrush, rinse, wipe dry, and reinstall. You're done in half an
hour (with half of that time soaking while you do something else,
like clean inside the saw and sweep the floor.)


================================================== ======
TANSTAAFL: There ain't no such thing as a free lunch.
http://diversify.com Gourmet Web Applications
==========================

Jim Laumann wrote:
HI

I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.

Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
the build up. Can any one confirm?

Thanks

Jim

Oven cleaner works very well especially with burned resin,
but simple green (spray concentrate on the blade, let sit
then put into water) probably gets most stuff off and is
gentler.

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message
...
Jim Laumann wrote:
HI

I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition my
hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.

Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
the build up. Can any one confirm?

Thanks

Jim

Oven cleaner works very well especially with burned resin, but simple
green (spray concentrate on the blade, let sit then put into water)
probably gets most stuff off and is gentler.

Simple Green and a stiff brush works quite well, isn't caustic, and is
pretty pleasant to work with. I use a brass bore brush (gun) to clean out
the gullets and a brass "tooth brush"* to clean the rest of the teeth.

John

*Disclaimer: Do not use brass tooth brush for dental hygiene as, though good
for removing plaque, it is too rough on the gums and tooth enamel.

Jim:

I have used Varsol - from Home Hardware or Home Depot. It cleans a lot
off immediately. I just wipe the blade down as best I am able getting
everything off the teeth edges.

For what is left - I clean the blade right on the saw as follows...

I use the Paper towel like shop towels - blue coloured -- since they are
quite tough, and a tongue-depressor-like stick of wood.

1. Unplug the saw. :-)
3. Wet down a shop towel with Varsol and rotate through the blade
cleaning the sides as much as possible. Wipe with a fine brass brush and
re-clean at this stage if need be - it will make cleaning the teeth go
faster.
2. Using a thin piece of wood 1/8 " (3mm) or less -- wrap a torn off
piece of paper shop towel around the end two or three times -- it should
still lay flat on the stick. (Cut the piece of towel with scissors if
you are a neat freak or like precision. :-) )
3. Apply Varsol to the piece of paper shop towel on the stick - soak it
good.
4. Swipe across each tooth till it cleans up. Try tests Test working in
each direction ( up and down , across , rotating etc.) till you find the
method that tears the towel the least on this particular blade -- and
then clean the rest of the teeth in a similar manner.
5. For stubborn scale and baked on gum a thumbnail or brass brush should
scrape it off after Varsol has softened it.
6. Give a final clean up with the Varsol soaked rag
7. Test

It usually takes 5- 10 min for a rip (24 tooth) blade, 10 to 15 min for
a 40 tooth General Purpose and 15 min or a bit more for a 50-80 tooth
blade.

---------
Will

Jim Laumann wrote:
HI

I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.

Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
the build up. Can any one confirm?

Thanks

Jim

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 10:25:15 -0500, Will
wrote:

Jim:

I have used Varsol - from Home Hardware or Home Depot. It cleans a lot
off immediately. I just wipe the blade down as best I am able getting
everything off the teeth edges.

For what is left - I clean the blade right on the saw as follows...

I use the Paper towel like shop towels - blue coloured -- since they are
quite tough, and a tongue-depressor-like stick of wood.

1. Unplug the saw. :-)
3. Wet down a shop towel with Varsol and rotate through the blade
cleaning the sides as much as possible. Wipe with a fine brass brush and
re-clean at this stage if need be - it will make cleaning the teeth go
faster.
2. Using a thin piece of wood 1/8 " (3mm) or less -- wrap a torn off
piece of paper shop towel around the end two or three times -- it should
still lay flat on the stick. (Cut the piece of towel with scissors if
you are a neat freak or like precision. :-) )
3. Apply Varsol to the piece of paper shop towel on the stick - soak it
good.
4. Swipe across each tooth till it cleans up. Try tests Test working in
each direction ( up and down , across , rotating etc.) till you find the
method that tears the towel the least on this particular blade -- and
then clean the rest of the teeth in a similar manner.
5. For stubborn scale and baked on gum a thumbnail or brass brush should
scrape it off after Varsol has softened it.
6. Give a final clean up with the Varsol soaked rag
7. Test

It usually takes 5- 10 min for a rip (24 tooth) blade, 10 to 15 min for
a 40 tooth General Purpose and 15 min or a bit more for a 50-80 tooth
blade.

---------
Will

Jim Laumann wrote:
HI

I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.

Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
the build up. Can any one confirm?

Thanks

Jim

Best thing I've found is "Fast Orange" hand cleaner from the auto
parts store. Just smear some on, wait 2-3 minutes and rinse it off.
Presto! Clean blade. The cleaner has pumice in it but it isnt a
factor since you have to do very little rubbing. A few seconds with a
paper towel dries the blade nicely and I've never had any problems
caused by water remaining on it.

I've used oven cleaner in the past and it does work well but it's
messy and hard on the skin And it took all the maker's marks off the
saw so unless you remark it somehow you have to guess what blade it
is. I dont know what oven clean will do to a teflon blade. Not good,
is my guess.

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 16:31:49 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


"Jim Laumann" wrote in message
.. .
HI

I have a carbide tipped 10" blade which is causing some "burned" marks
on wood. It occurs when I'm ripping, and have to stop to reposition
my hands. As long as I keep the wood in motion, things are ok.

Seems to me I read something about using oven cleaner to remove
the build up. Can any one confirm?


Doesn't have to be that harsh an alkali - use something like TSP -90 wall
cleaner, or a dilute version sold as "Simple Green" is good as well.
Non-aluminum plate big enough to hold the blade - plastic at my house -
solution to cover.
Five minutes and perhaps a run at the worst crap with a toothbrush, then a
rinse and dry.



5 gallon plastic bucket. stack the blades with layers of mesh non-slip
pad between them. warm the solution. washing soda works fine. 15
minutes or so and scrub a bit with a nylon brush. dry and store.