As I understand it, BS adjustment can be tricky. My first 3 cuts were
perfect in 4" thick oak. After that, the cut kept drifting left. I've played
with the bearing adjustment without success. Tension is set to 3/8" (like
the blade). What can be the problem ?

Junkyard Engineer wrote:
As I understand it, BS adjustment can be tricky. My first 3 cuts were
perfect in 4" thick oak. After that, the cut kept drifting left. I've played
with the bearing adjustment without success. Tension is set to 3/8" (like
the blade). What can be the problem ?


Try adding a bit more tension and/or slightly dulling the side of the
blade where the cut it drifting to.

You can also adjust the fence to match the drift, or use a single point
fence.

I often use slightly more tension than the scale says. On my Delta I'll
typically run a 3/8" blade between the 3/8" and 1/2" scale marks. Don't
forget to round the back of the blade with an old stone, grinder wheel,
sandpaper, or purpose built blade rounding tool. If I've got a blade
with a lot of drift, I'll often lightly rub the drift side with the
stone to dull it as I've mentioned above.

Barry

Junkyard Engineer wrote:
As I understand it, BS adjustment can be tricky. My first 3 cuts were

perfect in 4" thick oak. After that, the cut kept drifting left. I've
played
with the bearing adjustment without success. Tension is set to 3/8"
(like
the blade). What can be the problem ?

There is definitely a debate about the tension issue. Lonnie Bird's
book basically says that you can never get enough tension, especially
in most 14" models. IN a recent mag. it said that that was a myth.
That same magazine article suggests that you can correct drift by
tracking the upper wheel perfectly in the middle.

On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 14:33:23 -0500, "Junkyard Engineer"
wrote:

As I understand it, BS adjustment can be tricky. My first 3 cuts were
perfect in 4" thick oak. After that, the cut kept drifting left. I've played
with the bearing adjustment without success. Tension is set to 3/8" (like
the blade). What can be the problem ?



I found Duginski's recommendation about plucking the blade while
tightening works well. You hear a clear tone at some point during the
tightening, then stop. No visual needed. Check your wheels for
co-planar positioning. Check bearings and guide blocks.

Keep the blade tracking in the middle of the top wheel and you won't
have trouble with drift.

Junkyard Engineer wrote:
As I understand it, BS adjustment can be tricky. My first 3 cuts were
perfect in 4" thick oak. After that, the cut kept drifting left. I've played
with the bearing adjustment without success. Tension is set to 3/8" (like
the blade). What can be the problem ?

In article ,
"Junkyard Engineer" wrote:

As I understand it, BS adjustment can be tricky. My first 3 cuts were
perfect in 4" thick oak. After that, the cut kept drifting left. I've played
with the bearing adjustment without success. Tension is set to 3/8" (like
the blade). What can be the problem ?

On another tack, what's the blade brand? Also, how much length of 4"
stock did you cut? Was this purchased wood or yard tree?

If the first few cuts were "perfect" then all went south, I'm wondering
if the blade sharpness is the culprit. Is it merely wandering left or do
you think it requires a bit more pressure to push the wood through? If
it were mine (and not a carbide tipped blade), then I'd consider
touching up the underside of each tooth with a Dremel and a chainsaw
stone and then seeing how it cut. It doesn't take much to dull a blade
sometimes if there's enough grit or dirt embedded in the wood.

--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"Sure we'll have fascism in America, but it'll come disguised
as 100% Americanism." -- Huey P. Long

On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 20:59:10 -0500, TDUP wrote:

Keep the blade tracking in the middle of the top wheel and you won't
have trouble with drift.

I don't agree.

I keep my saw well tuned and center tracked but still see some blades
that lead. Those are the blades that get a light touch with an
abrasive on the leading side of the teeth.

FWIW, I've used Timberwolf, Woodslicer, and many other brands. Once I
really learned how to keep the saw tuned, I've settled on $10 Olsen
(from Ballew Tool) and BC Saw blades. I've got no reason to spend $30
on a band saw blade.

Barry

Ok, found the problem, the problem came with the original blade. After
checking every adjustment, I decided to change the blade and guess what...
everything is back on track. It's a swedish blade purchased at a specialty
tooling store (20$Cdn). I cut mostly hard wood and the first cut was with 4
to 6" thick along the grain.

My first touch with a BS tells me that it's the most sensitive tool I get on
my floor but many hours of fun in front of me !

thanks all


"Fly-by-Night CC" a écrit dans le message de news:
...
In article ,
"Junkyard Engineer" wrote:

As I understand it, BS adjustment can be tricky. My first 3 cuts were
perfect in 4" thick oak. After that, the cut kept drifting left. I've
played
with the bearing adjustment without success. Tension is set to 3/8" (like
the blade). What can be the problem ?

On another tack, what's the blade brand? Also, how much length of 4"
stock did you cut? Was this purchased wood or yard tree?

If the first few cuts were "perfect" then all went south, I'm wondering
if the blade sharpness is the culprit. Is it merely wandering left or do
you think it requires a bit more pressure to push the wood through? If
it were mine (and not a carbide tipped blade), then I'd consider
touching up the underside of each tooth with a Dremel and a chainsaw
stone and then seeing how it cut. It doesn't take much to dull a blade
sometimes if there's enough grit or dirt embedded in the wood.

--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"Sure we'll have fascism in America, but it'll come disguised
as 100% Americanism." -- Huey P. Long

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 12:17:25 GMT, Ba r r y
wrote:

On Fri, 28 Jan 2005 20:59:10 -0500, TDUP wrote:

Keep the blade tracking in the middle of the top wheel and you won't
have trouble with drift.

I don't agree.

I keep my saw well tuned and center tracked but still see some blades
that lead. Those are the blades that get a light touch with an
abrasive on the leading side of the teeth.

FWIW, I've used Timberwolf, Woodslicer, and many other brands. Once I
really learned how to keep the saw tuned, I've settled on $10 Olsen
(from Ballew Tool) and BC Saw blades. I've got no reason to spend $30
on a band saw blade.


One thing I've noticed in discussions here is that while
people use carbide blades on table/chop/etc saws,
they don't bother with them on band saws. Is there any
reason for that other than cost ?

Barry

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 11:22:56 -0500, GregP
wrote:


One thing I've noticed in discussions here is that while
people use carbide blades on table/chop/etc saws,
they don't bother with them on band saws. Is there any
reason for that other than cost ?

I've never tried a carbide band saw blade, as I've never had a reason
to spend the money on one.

Barry

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 09:08:41 -0500, "Junkyard Engineer"
wrote:

Ok, found the problem, the problem came with the original blade. After
checking every adjustment, I decided to change the blade and guess what...
everything is back on track.

Just for grins, since your tossing the original blade, try lightly
touching the leading side of the teeth with an abrasive with the saw
running, and see what happens with the cut.

The abrasive can be a grinding wheel, sharpening stone, emery board,
sandpaper glued to a stick, etc... Anything that won't get caught and
sucked into the saw will work.

Besides, the practice of mounting and dismounting blades is good for
ya'. G

Barry

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 17:47:15 GMT, Ba r r y
wrote:


I've never tried a carbide band saw blade, as I've never had a reason
to spend the money on one.


But you'd buy a carbide blade for a table saw ?

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 17:47:27 -0500, GregP
wrote:


But you'd buy a carbide blade for a table saw ?

Absofrigginloutlely!

Table saw blades are easy to get sharpened. Band saw blades are not
only a pain to get sharpened, but they break, get kinked, etc... I
get plenty of use out of a $10 blade, where I don't mind tossing it
when I'm done.

The cut quality of carbide BS blades that I've seen does not seem to
be all that better than a plain steel version. Carbide table saw
blades cut better from day one, and keep going and going.

Barry

In article ,
Ba r r y wrote:

Just for grins, since your tossing the original blade, try lightly
touching the leading side of the teeth with an abrasive with the saw
running, and see what happens with the cut.

That sounds like that recommendation to touch up jointer knives with a
sharpening stone and the jointer running - IOW, sounds more dangerous
than my soundly condemned technique of lowering a zero clearance table
saw insert onto the moving blade to cut the kerf slot.

I could see doing this under power if you turn the blade inside out so
that the teeth are pointing upwards. I've turned mine inside out to
clean them while running with emery paper or steel wool when they got
really gunked up when cutting green wood.

--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"Sure we'll have fascism in America, but it'll come disguised
as 100% Americanism." -- Huey P. Long

On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 22:30:33 -0800, Fly-by-Night CC
wrote:

In article ,
Ba r r y wrote:

Just for grins, since your tossing the original blade, try lightly
touching the leading side of the teeth with an abrasive with the saw
running, and see what happens with the cut.

That sounds like that recommendation to touch up jointer knives with a
sharpening stone and the jointer running

Not at all, maybe I didn't explain it correctly.

You are LIGHTLY touching the SIDE of the teeth on a moving blade with
a hard abrasive. This is done to the side the cut leads toward. The
abrasive used should be BIG ENOUGH, or mounted to wood, so that the
fingers are comfortably distant from the blade.

This is no more dangerous than rounding the backs of the blades, and
the same tool can be used. Some blades lead because one side is
much sharper than the other, or the set is off center, even on an
anally accurate set-up saw.

Dulling a side or rounding the back of a band saw blade is no more
dangerous than actually band sawing wood, if the operator thinks
things through.

You do round the backs of your blades, no?

Barry

"Ba r r y" wrote in message
...
You do round the backs of your blades, no?


Nope, mine have no burr from being stamped out, and I keep my guides tight,
so I don't turn one.

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 08:20:16 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


"Ba r r y" wrote in message
.. .
You do round the backs of your blades, no?


Nope, mine have no burr from being stamped out, and I keep my guides tight,
so I don't turn one.



I don't understand what you're saying. None of my blades have a burr,
and I run Cool Blocks right up against the blade.

Every blade I've ever bought had square back edges, making the
backward move difficult. Rounded rear corners work very well. If saw
is used only to resaw and rip, the rounded edges probably wouldn't add
much, but they sure do when cutting tight curves or backing out of a
cut.

Barry

just bought a good size stone (3" x 10") for knife sharpening. Dulling the
back blade is done (new one). Now, when I'll change this blade, I'll try on
the old stock one. I have my doubts about it's quality anyway and ilt will
be done with ABSOLUTE security in mind. I play piano so need all those
fingers around....




"Ba r r y" a écrit dans le message
de news: ...
On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 08:20:16 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


"Ba r r y" wrote in message
. ..
You do round the backs of your blades, no?


Nope, mine have no burr from being stamped out, and I keep my guides
tight,
so I don't turn one.



I don't understand what you're saying. None of my blades have a burr,
and I run Cool Blocks right up against the blade.

Every blade I've ever bought had square back edges, making the
backward move difficult. Rounded rear corners work very well. If saw
is used only to resaw and rip, the rounded edges probably wouldn't add
much, but they sure do when cutting tight curves or backing out of a
cut.

Barry

"Ba r r y" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 08:20:16 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


"Ba r r y" wrote in message
.. .
You do round the backs of your blades, no?


Nope, mine have no burr from being stamped out, and I keep my guides
tight,
so I don't turn one.



I don't understand what you're saying. None of my blades have a burr,
and I run Cool Blocks right up against the blade.

Every blade I've ever bought had square back edges, making the
backward move difficult. Rounded rear corners work very well. If saw
is used only to resaw and rip, the rounded edges probably wouldn't add
much, but they sure do when cutting tight curves or backing out of a
cut.


Best thing for cutting tight curves is the proper size blade. But maybe
that's another reason why I haven't found it necessary. Better to never
back out of a cut, rather make relief cuts.

The basic need is (was) to remove an artifact of stamping, or a burr turned
by overfeeding and overturning. That's why I said what I said.
Understandable enough?

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 10:40:51 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


Best thing for cutting tight curves is the proper size blade. But maybe
that's another reason why I haven't found it necessary. Better to never
back out of a cut, rather make relief cuts.

I typically back out of cuts where the waste may be vee shaped, or if
I'm cutting notches or squared corners. It's frequently easier to
back out of a quick cut with a 3/8" or 1/2" blade, than to mount a
1/16" or 1/8" blade for a one shot deal.

The basic need is (was) to remove an artifact of stamping, or a burr turned
by overfeeding and overturning. That's why I said what I said.
Understandable enough?

Absolutely. As usual, you know everything. G

I again understand why I rarely bother to reply to your posts.

Barry

"Ba r r y" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 10:40:51 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


Best thing for cutting tight curves is the proper size blade. But maybe
that's another reason why I haven't found it necessary. Better to never
back out of a cut, rather make relief cuts.

I typically back out of cuts where the waste may be vee shaped, or if
I'm cutting notches or squared corners. It's frequently easier to
back out of a quick cut with a 3/8" or 1/2" blade, than to mount a
1/16" or 1/8" blade for a one shot deal.

The basic need is (was) to remove an artifact of stamping, or a burr
turned
by overfeeding and overturning. That's why I said what I said.
Understandable enough?

Absolutely. As usual, you know everything. G

I again understand why I rarely bother to reply to your posts.


Well, is anything I said untrue? Is your "I don't understand" not really a
request for clarification?

There's a big difference between hopefully getting by without kinking the
blade as you try to back it out of an other than straight cut, and preferred
practice. Why suggest (or even admit) poor practice? If it's all you have
to say, you're right to remain silent.

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 14:02:15 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


There's a big difference between hopefully getting by without kinking the
blade as you try to back it out of an other than straight cut, and preferred
practice. Why suggest (or even admit) poor practice? If it's all you have
to say, you're right to remain silent.

Stopped cuts are a perfectly accepted practice on a band saw.

I never said I was backing out of curved cuts, you inferred that. A
rounded back allows the blade to slide out easier from a straight cut,
as well.

Barry

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 14:02:15 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


"Ba r r y" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 10:40:51 -0500, "George" george@least wrote:


Best thing for cutting tight curves is the proper size blade. But maybe
that's another reason why I haven't found it necessary. Better to never
back out of a cut, rather make relief cuts.

I typically back out of cuts where the waste may be vee shaped, or if
I'm cutting notches or squared corners. It's frequently easier to
back out of a quick cut with a 3/8" or 1/2" blade, than to mount a
1/16" or 1/8" blade for a one shot deal.

The basic need is (was) to remove an artifact of stamping, or a burr
turned
by overfeeding and overturning. That's why I said what I said.
Understandable enough?

Absolutely. As usual, you know everything. G

I again understand why I rarely bother to reply to your posts.


Well, is anything I said untrue? Is your "I don't understand" not really a
request for clarification?

There's a big difference between hopefully getting by without kinking the
blade as you try to back it out of an other than straight cut, and preferred
practice. Why suggest (or even admit) poor practice? If it's all you have
to say, you're right to remain silent.



it's also "prefered practice" to use the factory anti-kickback pawls
on a tablesaw. how mant saws have you seen with as opposed to without
them?

if the guy gets good results backing up with his bandsaw, good for
him. so do I.

In article ,
Ba r r y wrote:

That sounds like that recommendation to touch up jointer knives with a
sharpening stone and the jointer running

Not at all, maybe I didn't explain it correctly.

You are LIGHTLY touching the SIDE of the teeth on a moving blade with
a hard abrasive. This is done to the side the cut leads toward. The
abrasive used should be BIG ENOUGH, or mounted to wood, so that the
fingers are comfortably distant from the blade.

My apologies Barry. I guess I misunderstood and thought you were talking
about facing the teeth while the saw was running.

--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"Sure we'll have fascism in America, but it'll come disguised
as 100% Americanism." -- Huey P. Long