I am buying alot of quartersawn white oak in the rough and I had a
question. I need to mill it in my Delta 12" planner but since both the
top and bottom are rough is there a proper way to ensure I have a flat
board when I finish milling it. The lumber does not have a smooth
surface on the bottom when I first put it into the planer but I want to
make sure that it remains flat as I mill it so when it it flipped over
to do the other side the board is flat or does it matter.
Thanks,
Mike

Yes, it matters. Here's a link to get you started.
http://www.inthewoodshop.org/methods/wwc01.shtml
--dave

wrote in message
oups.com...
I am buying alot of quartersawn white oak in the rough and I had a
question. I need to mill it in my Delta 12" planner but since both the
top and bottom are rough is there a proper way to ensure I have a flat
board when I finish milling it. The lumber does not have a smooth
surface on the bottom when I first put it into the planer but I want to
make sure that it remains flat as I mill it so when it it flipped over
to do the other side the board is flat or does it matter.
Thanks,
Mike

There is protocol.
See the http://www.patwarner.com/material_prep.html link for one
schedule.

Technically you need a jointer to smooth the edge and one surface. You make
the opposite edge parallel to the jointed edge with you TS. You make the
opposite surface that you made smooth with the jointer smooth and parallel
with the thickness planer.

That said, I have successfully done what you propose with "flat" rough
stock and only a planer for the top and bottom surfaces.



wrote in message
oups.com...
I am buying alot of quartersawn white oak in the rough and I had a
question. I need to mill it in my Delta 12" planner but since both the
top and bottom are rough is there a proper way to ensure I have a flat
board when I finish milling it. The lumber does not have a smooth
surface on the bottom when I first put it into the planer but I want to
make sure that it remains flat as I mill it so when it it flipped over
to do the other side the board is flat or does it matter.
Thanks,
Mike

On 20 Jan 2005 13:40:37 -0800, "
wrote:

I am buying alot of quartersawn white oak in the rough and I had a
question. I need to mill it in my Delta 12" planner but since both the
top and bottom are rough is there a proper way to ensure I have a flat
board when I finish milling it. The lumber does not have a smooth
surface on the bottom when I first put it into the planer but I want to
make sure that it remains flat as I mill it so when it it flipped over
to do the other side the board is flat or does it matter.
Thanks,
Mike

jointer first then planer. thasts the rule BUT you can do it with just
a planer if you make a sled for the planer and use scraps to support
the high spots. the planers feed rollers will press the wood to the
table and whatever bow or bend or twist is present will still be there
thats why the sled. it can be done but it is a fiddly process so if
you are only doing a little go for it. if a lot you may want to invest
in a jointer or a good hand plane to flatten the first face.

skeez

wrote in message
oups.com...
I am buying alot of quartersawn white oak in the rough and I had a
question. I need to mill it in my Delta 12" planner but since both the
top and bottom are rough is there a proper way to ensure I have a flat
board when I finish milling it. The lumber does not have a smooth
surface on the bottom when I first put it into the planer but I want to
make sure that it remains flat as I mill it so when it it flipped over
to do the other side the board is flat or does it matter.
Thanks,
Mike

oh boy, here we go again.

Mike, suffice it to say, this has been discussed ad naseum on the wreck.
DAGS on flattening wood, do i need a jointer, jointer or planer, etc....

Time to buy a jointer, use it to get 2 faces flat and square to each
other, then rip and plan the other sides

John

On 20 Jan 2005 13:40:37 -0800, "
wrote:

I am buying alot of quartersawn white oak in the rough and I had a
question. I need to mill it in my Delta 12" planner but since both the
top and bottom are rough is there a proper way to ensure I have a flat
board when I finish milling it. The lumber does not have a smooth
surface on the bottom when I first put it into the planer but I want to
make sure that it remains flat as I mill it so when it it flipped over
to do the other side the board is flat or does it matter.
Thanks,
Mike

On 20 Jan 2005 13:40:37 -0800, "
wrote:

I am buying alot of quartersawn white oak in the rough and I had a
question. I need to mill it in my Delta 12" planner but since both the
top and bottom are rough is there a proper way to ensure I have a flat
board when I finish milling it. The lumber does not have a smooth
surface on the bottom when I first put it into the planer but I want to
make sure that it remains flat as I mill it so when it it flipped over
to do the other side the board is flat or does it matter.
Thanks,
Mike

All boards are cupped, but for some you must put a straight edge
across the width to be able to tell which way.

When you have determined which side is the high side, put that side up
when feeding it into the planer. You say that your boards are
quartersawn but they probably still have an apparent grain direction.
Feed them into the planer so that the blade will hit them on the
upslope of the grain - that is "going with the grain" - this will save
you from most tearout.

When you have run the high side off of your board, flip it over and
plane the other side. It is important to try to take equal amounts of
wood from each face, as boards usually have a different level of
moisture in the center and running more of the wood off of one face
than the other will reinstitute the cup.

When you are done you should stack the wood, rather than stand it up
or leave individual pieces sitting unstacked. If your wood is still
reasonably green, you should separate the boards with "stickers" which
are pieces of stock that have achieved their equilibrium moisture
content, I prefer rips of ply - but don't use cherry, because it will
stain the oak. Softwood ply rips will not be a problem and, if you
have any mdf rips, they are perfect.

Weight the stack, or band it, if you have that ability. If you choose
banding, and your stock was juicey to begin with, you will have to
reband as it loses moisture.


tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)

On 20 Jan 2005 13:40:37 -0800, "
wrote:

I am buying alot of quartersawn white oak in the rough and I had a
question. I need to mill it in my Delta 12" planner but since both the
top and bottom are rough is there a proper way to ensure I have a flat
board when I finish milling it.

Just shove it through the planer, keep turning the boards over, don't
use excessive pressure and watch your technique.

A thickness planer will make flat smooth boards for you - you don't
need a wide jointer. The only ones it will have trouble with are
twisted boards, but then you probably don't want to be using these
anyway (if it's quartersawn and twisted, something bad went wrong
somewhere). It's usually best to either scrap such a board, or saw it
down to extract the stable portion before planing.

If you're careful, you can take cupping out perfectly well by a
thickness planer. Just don't crank the pressure on, or you distort it
more than you machine it. If it's badly cupped, you may get better
timber utilisation as two narrow boards, rather than planing all the
thickness out to remove the cup.

A wide jointer is great if you have it, bit you _can_ do this without.

To save a lot of time, use a hand-held powered planer to knock down
the high points of a cupped board (or a scrub). This is the only use I
have for a powered planer.

--
Smert' spamionam

Looked at this web site, very impressed with all the work that went into
this tutorial.

I am in the same situation but with a lot of walnut and cherry, some of
which is 8/4 up to 12/4. I need some of that thickness but want to resaw
some of it to get down to thinner stock.

Where in the multi-step process would I do the resaw operation? It would
seem that I need at least one good edge and face, correct? Would that be he
step to go to resaw or should I take the stock all the way to 4 square and
then resaw and plane the resawn face?

Thanks for the help.

Russ
"Dave Jackson" wrote in message
nk.net...
Yes, it matters. Here's a link to get you started.
http://www.inthewoodshop.org/methods/wwc01.shtml
--dave

wrote in message
oups.com...
I am buying alot of quartersawn white oak in the rough and I had a
question. I need to mill it in my Delta 12" planner but since both the
top and bottom are rough is there a proper way to ensure I have a flat
board when I finish milling it. The lumber does not have a smooth
surface on the bottom when I first put it into the planer but I want to
make sure that it remains flat as I mill it so when it it flipped over
to do the other side the board is flat or does it matter.
Thanks,
Mike

On Thu, 20 Jan 2005 20:07:33 -0500, Tom Watson
wrote:

On 20 Jan 2005 13:40:37 -0800, "
wrote:

I am buying alot of quartersawn white oak in the rough and I had a
question. I need to mill it in my Delta 12" planner but since both the
top and bottom are rough is there a proper way to ensure I have a flat
board when I finish milling it. The lumber does not have a smooth
surface on the bottom when I first put it into the planer but I want to
make sure that it remains flat as I mill it so when it it flipped over
to do the other side the board is flat or does it matter.
Thanks,
Mike

Sorry. I might have missed the original message. There was some
discussion on this a while back. If you can cut to length first, and
not too long, this might work. It was suggested by soemone else. I
tried it, and it worked like a charm:

Have a piece of 3/4" MDF that will let the board sit on it. Hold to
the best position by eye to lose the least waste. Shim into place,
and "spot-weld", or run a line with hot glue. Judge for yourself how
much to use. No need to overdo it though. Run through the planer
[note the spelling] a little at a time until one side is done.

The board and glue are readily removed from the MDF and the wood, and
the MDF is reuseable. Flip over to do the other side.

I have a Delta 12 1/2" planer.
Last year I had to have it rebuild after two years of use. These types of
surface planers are not designed for heavy work. They are intended for
finish work. When milling air dried hardwood lumber I can only remove a
1/64" or less in one pass. If your lumber has not been well stacked when
air or kiln drying many boards will be distorted (crook, bow, cup and
twist). If this is the case either you have a powerful surface planer or
spent all day on a 12-13 light duty planer removing 1/64 or less at a time.
When I am in a rush I use my heavy duty 6" jointer to remove as much
distortion as possible before doing the final surface planing. When I have
more time, I go to a hardwood flooring mill where they have a machine that
surface four sides of a max width of 6 " in one pass. They charge me 0.07
cents per linear foot X 6" wide. Then I bring the milled lumber home and
use my Delta 12-1/2 to do the final finish. Knowing what I know now I would
have invested in a industrial planer. As a norm I now finish the board to a
7/8" thickness instead of 3/4". Sometime where structural strength is
require I finish to 1" thick.

"Joe C." wrote in message
om...

wrote in message
oups.com...
I am buying alot of quartersawn white oak in the rough and I had a
question. I need to mill it in my Delta 12" planner but since both the
top and bottom are rough is there a proper way to ensure I have a flat
board when I finish milling it. The lumber does not have a smooth
surface on the bottom when I first put it into the planer but I want to
make sure that it remains flat as I mill it so when it it flipped over
to do the other side the board is flat or does it matter.
Thanks,
Mike

oh boy, here we go again.

Mike, suffice it to say, this has been discussed ad naseum on the wreck.
DAGS on flattening wood, do i need a jointer, jointer or planer, etc....

"Russ Stanton" wrote in message
...
Looked at this web site, very impressed with all the work that went into
this tutorial.

I am in the same situation but with a lot of walnut and cherry, some of
which is 8/4 up to 12/4. I need some of that thickness but want to resaw
some of it to get down to thinner stock.

Where in the multi-step process would I do the resaw operation? It would
seem that I need at least one good edge and face, correct? Would that be
he
step to go to resaw or should I take the stock all the way to 4 square and
then resaw and plane the resawn face?


Seems that all you'd _really_ need is one face, no? Except that you're
usually planning to glue up the thinner pieces, in which case it's a damn
good idea to join/rip/optional join while thicker.

wrote:
There is protocol.
See the http://www.patwarner.com/material_prep.html link for one
schedule.

"a cascade of calamity if you ignore material preparation."

Nice turn of a word there, Pat. Too true.


PK

"Russ Stanton" wrote in message
...
If I only get one face jointed then I am still trying to resaw with a
"bad" edge sliding on the bandsaw table.

Looks like a minimum would be to to do an edge and a face, put the good
edge down and good face against the fence and resaw. But would it be
better from a material handling standpoint to resaw after doing the four
square.

Russ

To square the second edge, it only takes a minute to make a pass on the
tablesaw. If you only have one face jointed, you have to run the board
through he planer to get the face flat again. It is much easier to do this
if the other face is already planed and parallel. Best to take the extra
time up front rather than to try and correct errors later.

"Russ Stanton" wrote in message
...
If I only get one face jointed then I am still trying to resaw with a
"bad"
edge sliding on the bandsaw table.


"George" george@least wrote in message

Seems that all you'd _really_ need is one face, no? Except that you're
usually planning to glue up the thinner pieces, in which case it's a
damn
good idea to join/rip/optional join while thicker.


Depends on what you're referencing, I guess. I use a tall pivot and
reference the flat face only for those times when I'm trying to get the
"natural" look, or when I might have a particular grain match that only a
couple lines ripped later can accomplish..