What are the most important features for a miter saw? I'm not looking
for a flame war on one brand vs another but rather a few features that
are pretty much a 'must'. BTW, my use won't be professional or day in
and day out - lighter duty hobby type stuff, room trim, bookcases etc,
clean finish types of cuts mostly.

- So far an adjustable laser seems to be a concensus.
- 10" vs 12" is really a matter of do I have the money for the 12".

They all seem to have dust collection, motor brakes & 15amp motors.
Dual laser? Sliding unit? Fence extensions? Anything else?

Thanx,
Grandpa John

"John DeBoo" wrote in message
...
What are the most important features for a miter saw? I'm not looking for
a flame war on one brand vs another but rather a few features that are
pretty much a 'must'. BTW, my use won't be professional or day in and day
out - lighter duty hobby type stuff, room trim, bookcases etc, clean
finish types of cuts mostly.

- So far an adjustable laser seems to be a concensus.
- 10" vs 12" is really a matter of do I have the money for the 12".

They all seem to have dust collection, motor brakes & 15amp motors. Dual
laser? Sliding unit? Fence extensions? Anything else?

Thanx,
Grandpa John

How much of a table surface is there to support the work?
Can the blade/motor assy. be easily deflected with sideways force?
How do the various adjustments for angle and bevel work? Do they lock solid
at the detents? Are the stops easily adjustable?
Any of these things will become bothersome after the first couple of cuts,
or if you can never get the saw set where you want it and keep it there. I
spent a long time playing with the various models on display before making a
decision. Even the type of handle came into play. I prefer the yoke-type
(DeWalt style) over the gun-trigger type.
For trim work, a 10" non-slider will likely be more accurate over time than
a 12" slider. The 12" blades tend to have more run-out, and the sliding
mechansims will always allow some side play. You need to decide the maximum
width of cut you want @90 or 45 degrees, and go from there.

On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 12:55:31 -0700, John DeBoo
wrote:

What are the most important features for a miter saw? I'm not looking
for a flame war on one brand vs another but rather a few features that
are pretty much a 'must'. BTW, my use won't be professional or day in
and day out - lighter duty hobby type stuff, room trim, bookcases etc,
clean finish types of cuts mostly.

- So far an adjustable laser seems to be a concensus.
- 10" vs 12" is really a matter of do I have the money for the 12".

They all seem to have dust collection, motor brakes & 15amp motors.
Dual laser? Sliding unit? Fence extensions? Anything else?

Thanx,
Grandpa John

a couple of opinions formed by looking back... (the easiest kind,
right?)
My wife paid extra for the extension table upgrade on my CMS... which
gets in the way of my building a really table and fence setup for
it... we all know that if I remove the extension table, she'll notice
it immediately..
If you are not planning on building or adding surface area to the saw,
go for more area.. if you are, it's a mute point..

10 or 12"? 2 things occur to me here...
one, of course, is price...
the other is availability of other tools..

After using my CMS for a few weeks, I was thinking that a 12" would be
nicer for the added cutting capacity.. then, I found a used RAS, so
now 8" would probably work fine for me..

If I didn't have a table or radial saw, I'd spend the extra money and
get a good 12" saw..
OTOH, if you don't need the extra cutting that the 12" brings, I'd
suggest getting a really good 10" and keeping it for a lot of years..

A laser is not at all important to me. I like my DeWalt's high back
fence and 12" blade. It's perfect for cutting crown moldings. I
would have eventually regretted a 10" miter. The sliding feature is
nice, but that model drives up the cost and I figure a sliding feature
is something else that may could get out of adjustment. I build my own
miter station around the DeWalt unit and the dust is directed to the
floor. Crown stops are nice, but I never bought these--the cost is
high and I can use shop-made stops fastened with clamps or carpet
tape.

On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 12:55:31 -0700, John DeBoo
wrote:

What are the most important features for a miter saw? I'm not looking
for a flame war on one brand vs another but rather a few features that
are pretty much a 'must'. BTW, my use won't be professional or day in
and day out - lighter duty hobby type stuff, room trim, bookcases etc,
clean finish types of cuts mostly.

- So far an adjustable laser seems to be a concensus.
- 10" vs 12" is really a matter of do I have the money for the 12".

They all seem to have dust collection, motor brakes & 15amp motors.
Dual laser? Sliding unit? Fence extensions? Anything else?

Thanx,
Grandpa John

"Phisherman" wrote in message
...
A laser is not at all important to me. I like my DeWalt's high back
fence and 12" blade. It's perfect for cutting crown moldings. I
would have eventually regretted a 10" miter.


I agree. I looked at the 10" as it would do the job at hand, but eventually,
the 12" would be better and that has bee proven.

The laser light that comes on when the saw is started is a silly idea. I'll
be damned if I'm going to start sliding the work around with a blade
spinning near my hand. I real life use, I bring the blade down to the line
and adjust as needed. Then I firmly hold the work with my left hand, well
away from the blade, then make the cut.

The DeWalt came with a pretty good blade. I had it re=sharpened by Ridge
Carbide Tool and it cambe back better that new.

Handle comfort is another factor. Many have gone to a horizontal D handle.
Easier to grip the the vertical handles, IMO.

other good thoughts already given.. here's mine

simple - the simplest tool that does the job

fewest bells & whistles - just something else to break or get out of
alignment

if you are doing woodworking; building furniture, then you want
accuracy above others; and adjustability so you can but it "back into
whack"

opinions change; mine will eventually ;-)

the front mounted controls for bevels are a nice idea; for occassional
use I'd label them bells & whistles - more linkages to mess up, etc,
but if you run the saw everyday and really need to make bevel
adjustments then maybe it's worth it. I saw them, wanted them, but in
the end decided that they alone were not the real features I needed.

I'd have to believe that the 10" is more accurate - less runout - than
the 12", but can you cut all the stock you need with the 10's
capacity. Accuracy is only of value if you can make the cut to begin
with.

John DeBoo wrote:
What are the most important features for a miter saw? I'm not looking
for a flame war on one brand vs another but rather a few features that
are pretty much a 'must'. BTW, my use won't be professional or day in
and day out - lighter duty hobby type stuff, room trim, bookcases etc,
clean finish types of cuts mostly.

- So far an adjustable laser seems to be a concensus.
- 10" vs 12" is really a matter of do I have the money for the 12".

They all seem to have dust collection, motor brakes & 15amp motors. Dual
laser? Sliding unit? Fence extensions? Anything else?

Thanx,
Grandpa John

For me height of fence, Handle position, horse power, table surface,
locking mech. I think the lasers are a waste of time. I have two and
the cheap one sits on the back of my truck almost all the time. The
Dewalt sits in my shop. If you use it a lot the handle is important. If
you use it for crown molding height of fence. Horse power is important
for ease of cut. And of course you want it to lock and stay locked. One
feature I like with the Dewalt is the adjustable blade height for
cutting dadoes. I don't have a RAS.

Rich

--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Linux user #291570
Remove "nospam" to email

"Evodawg" wrote in message
feature I like with the Dewalt is the adjustable blade height for
cutting dadoes. I don't have a RAS.

Question about that Rich. How effective does it cut those dados? I'm
guessing that you nibble away until the dado is a suitable width. Any idea
what the maximum dado is that you can cut at say 1/2" depth of cut?

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
. com...


The laser light that comes on when the saw is started is a silly idea.
I'll
be damned if I'm going to start sliding the work around with a blade
spinning near my hand. I real life use, I bring the blade down to the
line
and adjust as needed. Then I firmly hold the work with my left hand, well
away from the blade, then make the cut.


I'm glad you said this Edwin. I've long thought that the laser guides feel
squarely into the category of gimmick or gadget on a saw, but don't say that
out loud all that often. What kills me most is Sears' most current
commercial showing a guy running a cut with a circular saw with a laser on
it and advertising how this will keep your cuts true. Now, someone...
anyone... please explain to me how that cute little red line is going to do
anything more for your cut than my ugly black line that I've used all these
years? Oh well - that's advertising I guess.
--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow responds:

I've long thought that the laser guides feel
squarely into the category of gimmick or gadget on a saw, but don't say that
out loud all that often. What kills me most is Sears' most current
commercial showing a guy running a cut with a circular saw with a laser on
it and advertising how this will keep your cuts true. Now, someone...
anyone... please explain to me how that cute little red line is going to do
anything more for your cut than my ugly black line that I've used all these
years? Oh well - that's advertising I guess.

Well, I can't argue with you about the arbor nut borne lasers. But the dual
laser line on the Delta and Porter-Cable models is a whole different animal. Of
course, P-C has something over a decade of experience in this line, so they
should do it better. The dual line comes on when a switch at the top front of
the handle is flicked. If it doesn't meet your current needs, flick it off and
go with a pencil/,marking knife mark. But the lasers are there when the blade
is up, as well as when it's down. Admittedly, they're slotted when it's up, but
they still mark the whole width of the board.

I like them.

Now, as to gimmickry...yeah, I guess so. But useful and time saving gimmickry,
IMO. You get a mark on both sides of the blade, so either cut-off can be the
useful one with on extra calculation, and no swinging your head around to see
if things line up. You KNOW the saw is going to give you a kerf right between
those two lines.

Neat thing. Or so I think.

Charlie Self
"Giving every man a vote has no more made men wise and free than Christianity
has made them good." H. L. Mencken

"Charlie Self" wrote in message
...

Well, I can't argue with you about the arbor nut borne lasers. But the
dual
laser line on the Delta and Porter-Cable models is a whole different
animal. Of
course, P-C has something over a decade of experience in this line, so
they
should do it better. The dual line comes on when a switch at the top front
of
the handle is flicked. If it doesn't meet your current needs, flick it off
and
go with a pencil/,marking knife mark. But the lasers are there when the
blade
is up, as well as when it's down. Admittedly, they're slotted when it's
up, but
they still mark the whole width of the board.

I like them.

Now, as to gimmickry...yeah, I guess so. But useful and time saving
gimmickry,
IMO. You get a mark on both sides of the blade, so either cut-off can be
the
useful one with on extra calculation, and no swinging your head around to
see
if things line up. You KNOW the saw is going to give you a kerf right
between
those two lines.

Neat thing. Or so I think.


On the miter saw, I might be able to be convinced that a good (well mounted)
laser could be useful. Being the old and stubborn-stuck-in-my-ways sorta
guy that I am, I tend to resist some things a bit though. Especially if I
get it into my head that something new serves the purpose of dumbing down
the environment at hand. I know, I know, this really does not - it's just
my knee jerk reaction to things. And... it's my reaction to such things as
the current Sears commercial. So I get a little knee jerky from time to
time...
--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
ink.net...

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
. com...

snippage

I'm glad you said this Edwin. I've long thought that the laser guides
feel
squarely into the category of gimmick or gadget on a saw, but don't say
that
out loud all that often. What kills me most is Sears' most current
commercial showing a guy running a cut with a circular saw with a laser on
it and advertising how this will keep your cuts true. Now, someone...
anyone... please explain to me how that cute little red line is going to
do
anything more for your cut than my ugly black line that I've used all
these
years? Oh well - that's advertising I guess.

Personally, I prefer my 2 black marks & cutting guide. However, for the sake
of argument, if you're cutting that line free-hand, the laser pointing out
in front *might* help you keep the saw following the line easier than trying
to watch the line pass through the cut indicator on the front of the guide,
or craning your head to watch the blade follow that black line.

--
Nahmie
The law of intelligent tinkering: save all the parts.

In the shop when we are fitting stuff such as molding or actually anything,
we first measure and cut. Then we have to fit is sometimes and that involves
taking a bit off. To do this we bring down the blade on to the wood to
position the cut. Not elegant but effective. I bring down that blade a lot
before I cut. I imagine the laser would do the same thing once you get in
sync with it.
max


"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
. com...


The laser light that comes on when the saw is started is a silly idea.
I'll
be damned if I'm going to start sliding the work around with a blade
spinning near my hand. I real life use, I bring the blade down to the
line
and adjust as needed. Then I firmly hold the work with my left hand, well
away from the blade, then make the cut.


I'm glad you said this Edwin. I've long thought that the laser guides feel
squarely into the category of gimmick or gadget on a saw, but don't say that
out loud all that often. What kills me most is Sears' most current
commercial showing a guy running a cut with a circular saw with a laser on
it and advertising how this will keep your cuts true. Now, someone...
anyone... please explain to me how that cute little red line is going to do
anything more for your cut than my ugly black line that I've used all these
years? Oh well - that's advertising I guess.

Charlie Self wrote:
Mike Marlow responds:


I've long thought that the laser guides feel
squarely into the category of gimmick or gadget on a saw, but don't say that
out loud all that often. What kills me most is Sears' most current
commercial showing a guy running a cut with a circular saw with a laser on
it and advertising how this will keep your cuts true. Now, someone...
anyone... please explain to me how that cute little red line is going to do
anything more for your cut than my ugly black line that I've used all these
years? Oh well - that's advertising I guess.


Well, I can't argue with you about the arbor nut borne lasers. But the dual
laser line on the Delta and Porter-Cable models is a whole different animal. Of
course, P-C has something over a decade of experience in this line, so they
should do it better. The dual line comes on when a switch at the top front of
the handle is flicked. If it doesn't meet your current needs, flick it off and
go with a pencil/,marking knife mark. But the lasers are there when the blade
is up, as well as when it's down. Admittedly, they're slotted when it's up, but
they still mark the whole width of the board.

I like them.

Now, as to gimmickry...yeah, I guess so. But useful and time saving gimmickry,
IMO. You get a mark on both sides of the blade, so either cut-off can be the
useful one with on extra calculation, and no swinging your head around to see
if things line up. You KNOW the saw is going to give you a kerf right between
those two lines.

Neat thing. Or so I think.

Charlie Self
"Giving every man a vote has no more made men wise and free than Christianity
has made them good." H. L. Mencken

I got an idea, why not make the laser actually do something like make
the cut. Now that would be a true innovation. No more blades and
probably a smoother cut.

Rich

--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Linux user #291570
Remove "nospam" to email

Upscale wrote:
"Evodawg" wrote in message

feature I like with the Dewalt is the adjustable blade height for
cutting dadoes. I don't have a RAS.


Question about that Rich. How effective does it cut those dados? I'm
guessing that you nibble away until the dado is a suitable width. Any idea
what the maximum dado is that you can cut at say 1/2" depth of cut?



That's what I do, not really into changing the blade. Cut on either side
of kerf and nibble the middle. The depth is adjustable . You might check
Dewalts site for any spec's. www.dewalt.com

--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Linux user #291570
Remove "nospam" to email

On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 12:55:31 -0700, John DeBoo
wrote:

What are the most important features for a miter saw? I'm not looking
for a flame war on one brand vs another but rather a few features that
are pretty much a 'must'. BTW, my use won't be professional or day in
and day out - lighter duty hobby type stuff, room trim, bookcases etc,
clean finish types of cuts mostly.

- So far an adjustable laser seems to be a concensus.
- 10" vs 12" is really a matter of do I have the money for the 12".

They all seem to have dust collection, motor brakes & 15amp motors.
Dual laser? Sliding unit? Fence extensions? Anything else?

I don't know how necessary the laser is- sounds like some of them
aren't worth a damn anyhow. But I'd say a decent table (bought or
shopmade makes no real difference) is almost a *must*, unless you've
got plenty of adjustable roller stands. If I had it to do over again,
I'd probably go for the 12" over the 10", simply for the extra cutting
length when mitering, but 10" does the job most of the time anyways.
A good blade is also a must, if you want clean finish cuts.

Thanx,
Grandpa John

Aut inveniam viam aut faciam

On Fri, 26 Nov 2004 09:56:16 -0500, "Norman D. Crow"
wrote:




"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
link.net...

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
. com...

snippage

I'm glad you said this Edwin. I've long thought that the laser guides
feel
squarely into the category of gimmick or gadget on a saw, but don't say
that
out loud all that often. What kills me most is Sears' most current
commercial showing a guy running a cut with a circular saw with a laser on
it and advertising how this will keep your cuts true. Now, someone...
anyone... please explain to me how that cute little red line is going to
do
anything more for your cut than my ugly black line that I've used all
these
years? Oh well - that's advertising I guess.

Personally, I prefer my 2 black marks & cutting guide. However, for the sake
of argument, if you're cutting that line free-hand, the laser pointing out
in front *might* help you keep the saw following the line easier than trying
to watch the line pass through the cut indicator on the front of the guide,
or craning your head to watch the blade follow that black line.

Isn't the laser supposed to replace the scribe mark? I fail to see
how that would help keep things lined up if the wood moves... Perhaps
it would be useful on a circular saw where you've already marked the
sheetgoods, though. (Sheetgoods be cause I can't see the value in
having one for timbers)` It's awful easy to line up a regular mark
with any miter saw I've ever used.


Aut inveniam viam aut faciam