I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
there a trick to rounding without burning?

Check your local laws and see what they say. I know here in West Virginny
it's against the law!

They have some DUMB laws, though. I can't even use a router on my sister
legally.....

Check your local laws and see what they say. I know here in West Virginny
it's against the law!

They have some DUMB laws, though. I can't even use a router on my sister
legally.....

"ississauga" wrote in message
om...
I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
there a trick to rounding without burning?

I have an oak desk and the router sits on top of it. So far, it has not
burned it at all. Where the router connects to the computer there is plenty
of space for ventilation. If you mount the router on the stairs, be sure
the is out of the way so no one trips on it.

"ississauga" wrote in message
om...
I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
there a trick to rounding without burning?

I have an oak desk and the router sits on top of it. So far, it has not
burned it at all. Where the router connects to the computer there is plenty
of space for ventilation. If you mount the router on the stairs, be sure
the is out of the way so no one trips on it.

I was making some dog dish stands with oak tops. I had no problems. Use standard
practices and keep the router moving

Frank

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"ississauga" wrote in message
om...
I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
there a trick to rounding without burning?

I have an oak desk and the router sits on top of it. So far, it has not
burned it at all. Where the router connects to the computer there is plenty
of space for ventilation. If you mount the router on the stairs, be sure
the is out of the way so no one trips on it.

I was making some dog dish stands with oak tops. I had no problems. Use standard
practices and keep the router moving

Frank

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"ississauga" wrote in message
om...
I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
there a trick to rounding without burning?

I have an oak desk and the router sits on top of it. So far, it has not
burned it at all. Where the router connects to the computer there is plenty
of space for ventilation. If you mount the router on the stairs, be sure
the is out of the way so no one trips on it.

"ississauga" wrote in message
om...
| I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
| router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
| tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
| People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
| there a trick to rounding without burning?

Use a carbide tipped router bit or you probably will burn your stock.

"ississauga" wrote in message
om...
| I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
| router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
| tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
| People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
| there a trick to rounding without burning?

Use a carbide tipped router bit or you probably will burn your stock.

On 23 Sep 2004 00:45:49 -0700, (ississauga)
wrote:

I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
router to smooth the edges, will this work?

Should do.

Oak routs fine. Some is a bit hard and splintery, so watch out for
splitting on end grain and use a spelch plate (bit of scrap clamped to
the end of the cut).

If it's burning, turn the speed down and the feed rate up.

On 23 Sep 2004 00:45:49 -0700, (ississauga)
wrote:

I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
router to smooth the edges, will this work?

Should do.

Oak routs fine. Some is a bit hard and splintery, so watch out for
splitting on end grain and use a spelch plate (bit of scrap clamped to
the end of the cut).

If it's burning, turn the speed down and the feed rate up.

In article , (ississauga) wrote:
I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
there a trick to rounding without burning?

No "trick" really, just good routing practices:
1) Keep your cut depth shallow. Don't try to take off too much wood in one
pass. Remember that, with a roundover bit like you'll be using, as you lower
the bit, each pass takes off a lot more wood than the previous pass. So for
your first pass, you might be able to lower the bit as much as 1/8" -- but for
the second and third passes, no more than 1/16", and for subsequent passes,
you should probably limit it to 1/32".
2) Keep the router moving fairly quickly. If you move it too slowly, the wood
will burn.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.

In article , (ississauga) wrote:
I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
there a trick to rounding without burning?

No "trick" really, just good routing practices:
1) Keep your cut depth shallow. Don't try to take off too much wood in one
pass. Remember that, with a roundover bit like you'll be using, as you lower
the bit, each pass takes off a lot more wood than the previous pass. So for
your first pass, you might be able to lower the bit as much as 1/8" -- but for
the second and third passes, no more than 1/16", and for subsequent passes,
you should probably limit it to 1/32".
2) Keep the router moving fairly quickly. If you move it too slowly, the wood
will burn.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.

Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that? Of
course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is more
difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at one
point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth of
cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's your
point on carbide?
GerryG

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 12:58:43 GMT, "tcg" wrote:


"ississauga" wrote in message
. com...
| I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
| router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
| tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
| People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
| there a trick to rounding without burning?

Use a carbide tipped router bit or you probably will burn your stock.

Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that? Of
course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is more
difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at one
point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth of
cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's your
point on carbide?
GerryG

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 12:58:43 GMT, "tcg" wrote:


"ississauga" wrote in message
. com...
| I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
| router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
| tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
| People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
| there a trick to rounding without burning?

Use a carbide tipped router bit or you probably will burn your stock.

"GerryG" wrote in message
...
| Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that?
Of
| course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is
more
| difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at
one
| point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
| switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
| burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth
of
| cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's
your
| point on carbide?
| GerryG
|
| On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 12:58:43 GMT, "tcg" wrote:
|
|
| "ississauga" wrote in message
| . com...
| | I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
| | router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
| | tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
| | People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
| | there a trick to rounding without burning?
|
| Use a carbide tipped router bit or you probably will burn your stock.

As you said "although it (carbide) will hold an edge longer". Experience has
shown me that HSS may be as sharp as carbide, but one doesn't rout hardwood
long before the bit is dull and you're burning your stock. To me, with all
other things be equal, the longevity of a carbide edge makes it my choice
for router bits. Carbide tipped saw blades have almost completely replaced
un-tipped saw blades as the blades of choice in almost all saws today for
the same reason.

"GerryG" wrote in message
...
| Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that?
Of
| course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is
more
| difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at
one
| point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
| switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
| burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth
of
| cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's
your
| point on carbide?
| GerryG
|
| On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 12:58:43 GMT, "tcg" wrote:
|
|
| "ississauga" wrote in message
| . com...
| | I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
| | router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
| | tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
| | People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
| | there a trick to rounding without burning?
|
| Use a carbide tipped router bit or you probably will burn your stock.

As you said "although it (carbide) will hold an edge longer". Experience has
shown me that HSS may be as sharp as carbide, but one doesn't rout hardwood
long before the bit is dull and you're burning your stock. To me, with all
other things be equal, the longevity of a carbide edge makes it my choice
for router bits. Carbide tipped saw blades have almost completely replaced
un-tipped saw blades as the blades of choice in almost all saws today for
the same reason.

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 10:36:45 GMT, "Red Neckerson"
wrote:

Check your local laws and see what they say. I know here in West Virginny
it's against the law!

They have some DUMB laws, though. I can't even use a router on my sister
legally.....

====================
Lol.... I though all houses in the Mountain Moma State were old cars..
or trucks.,.. and I never saw one that needed steps INSIDE... lol

BUT if your sister is also your wife...(we are talking about West
Virginia ) is using a router on her still illegal... ???

Being Serious ... West Virginia is a very pretty State,..

Bob Griffiths
Maryland Boy ...but only 12 miles from the State lines of both
Virginia and West Virginia...

..

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 10:36:45 GMT, "Red Neckerson"
wrote:

Check your local laws and see what they say. I know here in West Virginny
it's against the law!

They have some DUMB laws, though. I can't even use a router on my sister
legally.....

====================
Lol.... I though all houses in the Mountain Moma State were old cars..
or trucks.,.. and I never saw one that needed steps INSIDE... lol

BUT if your sister is also your wife...(we are talking about West
Virginia ) is using a router on her still illegal... ???

Being Serious ... West Virginia is a very pretty State,..

Bob Griffiths
Maryland Boy ...but only 12 miles from the State lines of both
Virginia and West Virginia...

..

Of course, there are some who clean the carbide and touch up the faces with
600 diamond file prior to routing, and sometimes during long runs. Process
is exactly the same as your HSS.


"GerryG" wrote in message
...
Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that?
Of
course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is
more
difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at
one
point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth
of
cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's
your
point on carbide?

Of course, there are some who clean the carbide and touch up the faces with
600 diamond file prior to routing, and sometimes during long runs. Process
is exactly the same as your HSS.


"GerryG" wrote in message
...
Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that?
Of
course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is
more
difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at
one
point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth
of
cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's
your
point on carbide?

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 13:18:17 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , (ississauga) wrote:
I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
there a trick to rounding without burning?

No "trick" really, just good routing practices:
1) Keep your cut depth shallow. Don't try to take off too much wood in one
pass. Remember that, with a roundover bit like you'll be using, as you lower
the bit, each pass takes off a lot more wood than the previous pass. So for
your first pass, you might be able to lower the bit as much as 1/8" -- but for
the second and third passes, no more than 1/16", and for subsequent passes,
you should probably limit it to 1/32".
2) Keep the router moving fairly quickly. If you move it too slowly, the wood
will burn.



look he

http://www.patwarner.com/

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 13:18:17 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , (ississauga) wrote:
I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
there a trick to rounding without burning?

No "trick" really, just good routing practices:
1) Keep your cut depth shallow. Don't try to take off too much wood in one
pass. Remember that, with a roundover bit like you'll be using, as you lower
the bit, each pass takes off a lot more wood than the previous pass. So for
your first pass, you might be able to lower the bit as much as 1/8" -- but for
the second and third passes, no more than 1/16", and for subsequent passes,
you should probably limit it to 1/32".
2) Keep the router moving fairly quickly. If you move it too slowly, the wood
will burn.



look he

http://www.patwarner.com/

Exactly the same? I'm not talking about a 600 grit touch up here. You may also
get chip-outs in carbide, which can't be fixed. I've taken old and badly
burned HSS bit and fixed them good as new. And yes, I have touched up carbide,
and most of my bits are carbide. I've even ground specific profiles on HSS.
GerryG

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 12:13:53 -0400, "George" george@least wrote:

Of course, there are some who clean the carbide and touch up the faces with
600 diamond file prior to routing, and sometimes during long runs. Process
is exactly the same as your HSS.


"GerryG" wrote in message
.. .
Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that?
Of
course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is
more
difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at
one
point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth
of
cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's
your
point on carbide?

Exactly the same? I'm not talking about a 600 grit touch up here. You may also
get chip-outs in carbide, which can't be fixed. I've taken old and badly
burned HSS bit and fixed them good as new. And yes, I have touched up carbide,
and most of my bits are carbide. I've even ground specific profiles on HSS.
GerryG

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 12:13:53 -0400, "George" george@least wrote:

Of course, there are some who clean the carbide and touch up the faces with
600 diamond file prior to routing, and sometimes during long runs. Process
is exactly the same as your HSS.


"GerryG" wrote in message
.. .
Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that?
Of
course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is
more
difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at
one
point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth
of
cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's
your
point on carbide?

But, of course, I was. Which Is why I said it. It works, which is why I do
it.


"GerryG" wrote in message
...
Exactly the same? I'm not talking about a 600 grit touch up here. You may
also
get chip-outs in carbide, which can't be fixed. I've taken old and badly
burned HSS bit and fixed them good as new. And yes, I have touched up
carbide,
and most of my bits are carbide. I've even ground specific profiles on
HSS.
GerryG

But, of course, I was. Which Is why I said it. It works, which is why I do
it.


"GerryG" wrote in message
...
Exactly the same? I'm not talking about a 600 grit touch up here. You may
also
get chip-outs in carbide, which can't be fixed. I've taken old and badly
burned HSS bit and fixed them good as new. And yes, I have touched up
carbide,
and most of my bits are carbide. I've even ground specific profiles on
HSS.
GerryG

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 14:51:57 GMT, "tcg" wrote:


"GerryG" wrote in message
.. .
| Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that?
Of
| course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is
more
| difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at
one
| point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
| switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
| burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth
of
| cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's
your
| point on carbide?
| GerryG
|
| On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 12:58:43 GMT, "tcg" wrote:
|
|
| "ississauga" wrote in message
| . com...
| | I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
| | router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
| | tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
| | People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
| | there a trick to rounding without burning?
|
| Use a carbide tipped router bit or you probably will burn your stock.

As you said "although it (carbide) will hold an edge longer". Experience has
shown me that HSS may be as sharp as carbide, but one doesn't rout hardwood
long before the bit is dull and you're burning your stock. To me, with all
other things be equal, the longevity of a carbide edge makes it my choice
for router bits. Carbide tipped saw blades have almost completely replaced
un-tipped saw blades as the blades of choice in almost all saws today for
the same reason.

Firstly, I suggest that there are no rules that always apply. One obvious
variable is the amount of routing you intend to do. In general, I've heard it
said that carbide lasts about 5x HSS. On the other hand, I can route hardwood
for several projects with HSS before it begins to get dull, which is a bit
different than what you've seen. I've got a few HSS bits that I use to hog out
MDF and particleboard, which also more quickly dulls carbide, but these same
bits have been used for maybe twenty years now. There are also cheaper carbide
bits that will tend to chip out much sooner, and they also have a place for
some projects where they're maybe 1/4 the cost but get the job done. For saw
blades, if you mean circular saws, I won't argue that one since sharpening a
HSS saw blade takes quite awhile. Overall, most of my router bits are of a
quality carbide, but the others have a use as well.
GerryG

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 14:51:57 GMT, "tcg" wrote:


"GerryG" wrote in message
.. .
| Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that?
Of
| course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is
more
| difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at
one
| point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
| switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
| burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth
of
| cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's
your
| point on carbide?
| GerryG
|
| On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 12:58:43 GMT, "tcg" wrote:
|
|
| "ississauga" wrote in message
| . com...
| | I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
| | router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
| | tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
| | People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
| | there a trick to rounding without burning?
|
| Use a carbide tipped router bit or you probably will burn your stock.

As you said "although it (carbide) will hold an edge longer". Experience has
shown me that HSS may be as sharp as carbide, but one doesn't rout hardwood
long before the bit is dull and you're burning your stock. To me, with all
other things be equal, the longevity of a carbide edge makes it my choice
for router bits. Carbide tipped saw blades have almost completely replaced
un-tipped saw blades as the blades of choice in almost all saws today for
the same reason.

Firstly, I suggest that there are no rules that always apply. One obvious
variable is the amount of routing you intend to do. In general, I've heard it
said that carbide lasts about 5x HSS. On the other hand, I can route hardwood
for several projects with HSS before it begins to get dull, which is a bit
different than what you've seen. I've got a few HSS bits that I use to hog out
MDF and particleboard, which also more quickly dulls carbide, but these same
bits have been used for maybe twenty years now. There are also cheaper carbide
bits that will tend to chip out much sooner, and they also have a place for
some projects where they're maybe 1/4 the cost but get the job done. For saw
blades, if you mean circular saws, I won't argue that one since sharpening a
HSS saw blade takes quite awhile. Overall, most of my router bits are of a
quality carbide, but the others have a use as well.
GerryG

On 23 Sep 2004 00:45:49 -0700, (ississauga)
wrote:

I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
there a trick to rounding without burning?

The proper speed and feed rate will minimize burning to oak. Having a
sharp bit with a good DC suction to remove the chips helps. Take
1/16" on the final pass and avoid holding the router still while
against the wood. Cherry is much more sensitive to burning than any
kind of oak.

On 23 Sep 2004 00:45:49 -0700, (ississauga)
wrote:

I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
there a trick to rounding without burning?

The proper speed and feed rate will minimize burning to oak. Having a
sharp bit with a good DC suction to remove the chips helps. Take
1/16" on the final pass and avoid holding the router still while
against the wood. Cherry is much more sensitive to burning than any
kind of oak.

I used a router on an oak once - I wasn't able to cut it down at all, one
heck of a big oak. I coverid it in gasoline just to soften the wood up and
then started the router back up and damn if it didn't burn it. I stay away
from oaks with my router now. I only use it on small poplars and an
occasional sycamore.


wrote in message
...
I was making some dog dish stands with oak tops. I had no problems. Use
standard
practices and keep the router moving

Frank

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"ississauga" wrote in message
om...
I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
there a trick to rounding without burning?

I have an oak desk and the router sits on top of it. So far, it has not
burned it at all. Where the router connects to the computer there is
plenty
of space for ventilation. If you mount the router on the stairs, be
sure
the is out of the way so no one trips on it.

I used a router on an oak once - I wasn't able to cut it down at all, one
heck of a big oak. I coverid it in gasoline just to soften the wood up and
then started the router back up and damn if it didn't burn it. I stay away
from oaks with my router now. I only use it on small poplars and an
occasional sycamore.


wrote in message
...
I was making some dog dish stands with oak tops. I had no problems. Use
standard
practices and keep the router moving

Frank

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

"ississauga" wrote in message
om...
I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
there a trick to rounding without burning?

I have an oak desk and the router sits on top of it. So far, it has not
burned it at all. Where the router connects to the computer there is
plenty
of space for ventilation. If you mount the router on the stairs, be
sure
the is out of the way so no one trips on it.

Where abouts Bob? I grew up in Montgomery county, but now live in Harpers
Ferry.

Steve P.

"Bob G." wrote in message
...
On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 10:36:45 GMT, "Red Neckerson"
wrote:

Check your local laws and see what they say. I know here in West Virginny
it's against the law!

They have some DUMB laws, though. I can't even use a router on my sister
legally.....

====================
Lol.... I though all houses in the Mountain Moma State were old cars..
or trucks.,.. and I never saw one that needed steps INSIDE... lol

BUT if your sister is also your wife...(we are talking about West
Virginia ) is using a router on her still illegal... ???

Being Serious ... West Virginia is a very pretty State,..

Bob Griffiths
Maryland Boy ...but only 12 miles from the State lines of both
Virginia and West Virginia...

.

Where abouts Bob? I grew up in Montgomery county, but now live in Harpers
Ferry.

Steve P.

"Bob G." wrote in message
...
On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 10:36:45 GMT, "Red Neckerson"
wrote:

Check your local laws and see what they say. I know here in West Virginny
it's against the law!

They have some DUMB laws, though. I can't even use a router on my sister
legally.....

====================
Lol.... I though all houses in the Mountain Moma State were old cars..
or trucks.,.. and I never saw one that needed steps INSIDE... lol

BUT if your sister is also your wife...(we are talking about West
Virginia ) is using a router on her still illegal... ???

Being Serious ... West Virginia is a very pretty State,..

Bob Griffiths
Maryland Boy ...but only 12 miles from the State lines of both
Virginia and West Virginia...

.

GerryG wrote:

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 14:51:57 GMT, "tcg" wrote:


"GerryG" wrote in message
.. .
| Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that?
Of
| course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is
more
| difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at
one
| point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
| switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
| burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth
of
| cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's
your
| point on carbide?
| GerryG
|
| On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 12:58:43 GMT, "tcg" wrote:
|
|
| "ississauga" wrote in message
| . com...
| | I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
| | router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
| | tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
| | People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
| | there a trick to rounding without burning?
|
| Use a carbide tipped router bit or you probably will burn your stock.

As you said "although it (carbide) will hold an edge longer". Experience has
shown me that HSS may be as sharp as carbide, but one doesn't rout hardwood
long before the bit is dull and you're burning your stock. To me, with all
other things be equal, the longevity of a carbide edge makes it my choice
for router bits. Carbide tipped saw blades have almost completely replaced
un-tipped saw blades as the blades of choice in almost all saws today for
the same reason.

Firstly, I suggest that there are no rules that always apply. One obvious
variable is the amount of routing you intend to do. In general, I've heard it
said that carbide lasts about 5x HSS. On the other hand, I can route hardwood
for several projects with HSS before it begins to get dull, which is a bit
different than what you've seen. I've got a few HSS bits that I use to hog out
MDF and particleboard, which also more quickly dulls carbide, but these same
bits have been used for maybe twenty years now. There are also cheaper carbide
bits that will tend to chip out much sooner, and they also have a place for
some projects where they're maybe 1/4 the cost but get the job done. For saw
blades, if you mean circular saws, I won't argue that one since sharpening a
HSS saw blade takes quite awhile. Overall, most of my router bits are of a
quality carbide, but the others have a use as well.
GerryG

I suggest that the original poster subscribe to the rec.woodworking newsgroup and
post the question there. Those guys have oodles of experience with routers on almost
any type of wood. For a newbie, they will try to help out.

GerryG wrote:

On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 14:51:57 GMT, "tcg" wrote:


"GerryG" wrote in message
.. .
| Carbide is needed to prevent burning? Would you care to elaborate on that?
Of
| course you realize that, although it will hold an edge longer, carbide is
more
| difficult to sharpen, and HSS bits will often take a better edge. That at
one
| point, having trouble with some burning on a particular piece of cherry, I
| switched from carbide to a freshly sharpened HSS bit and eliminated the
| burning. And you know that the combination of speed, feed rate and depth
of
| cut will have the greatest influence on burning. So, given that, what's
your
| point on carbide?
| GerryG
|
| On Thu, 23 Sep 2004 12:58:43 GMT, "tcg" wrote:
|
|
| "ississauga" wrote in message
| . com...
| | I want to buy the premade oak stair treads (steps) and use a half inch
| | router to smooth the edges, will this work? The front part of the
| | tread is already rounded but my customer wants the sides rounded too.
| | People told me the router will burn the wood because oak is hard, is
| | there a trick to rounding without burning?
|
| Use a carbide tipped router bit or you probably will burn your stock.

As you said "although it (carbide) will hold an edge longer". Experience has
shown me that HSS may be as sharp as carbide, but one doesn't rout hardwood
long before the bit is dull and you're burning your stock. To me, with all
other things be equal, the longevity of a carbide edge makes it my choice
for router bits. Carbide tipped saw blades have almost completely replaced
un-tipped saw blades as the blades of choice in almost all saws today for
the same reason.

Firstly, I suggest that there are no rules that always apply. One obvious
variable is the amount of routing you intend to do. In general, I've heard it
said that carbide lasts about 5x HSS. On the other hand, I can route hardwood
for several projects with HSS before it begins to get dull, which is a bit
different than what you've seen. I've got a few HSS bits that I use to hog out
MDF and particleboard, which also more quickly dulls carbide, but these same
bits have been used for maybe twenty years now. There are also cheaper carbide
bits that will tend to chip out much sooner, and they also have a place for
some projects where they're maybe 1/4 the cost but get the job done. For saw
blades, if you mean circular saws, I won't argue that one since sharpening a
HSS saw blade takes quite awhile. Overall, most of my router bits are of a
quality carbide, but the others have a use as well.
GerryG

I suggest that the original poster subscribe to the rec.woodworking newsgroup and
post the question there. Those guys have oodles of experience with routers on almost
any type of wood. For a newbie, they will try to help out.

Hi,
You didn't ask, but rounding over the end grain on the sides of stair
treads is not the "normal" way to get bullnose sides. At least around
here, a side trim piece is added, mitered at the front. That way you
don't have any end grain showing.
Lewis

Hi,
You didn't ask, but rounding over the end grain on the sides of stair
treads is not the "normal" way to get bullnose sides. At least around
here, a side trim piece is added, mitered at the front. That way you
don't have any end grain showing.
Lewis

good point.

"Lewis" wrote in message
om...
Hi,
You didn't ask, but rounding over the end grain on the sides of stair
treads is not the "normal" way to get bullnose sides. At least around
here, a side trim piece is added, mitered at the front. That way you
don't have any end grain showing.
Lewis