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#1
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How to install hardwood flooring the wrong way?
If you have installed hardwood what mistakes have you made? The
hardwood I am installing is the 3/4 inch thick type, about 2-3 inches wide, oak and maple mostly, finished type. I am installing hardwood flooring for my customers. There is a big demand for it here, as many people want me to replace their carpets with hardwood. I have being reading books and now work with a professional installer but there is nothing like learning from mistakes. |
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#2
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I'm hardly an expert, but I would say a mistake would be to not make sure
the paying customer understands that humidity related shrinkage gaps are to be expected. Maybe a mockup showing what it will look like in the winter is in order. Is ississauga related to Mississauga? "ississauga" wrote in message m... If you have installed hardwood what mistakes have you made? The hardwood I am installing is the 3/4 inch thick type, about 2-3 inches wide, oak and maple mostly, finished type. I am installing hardwood flooring for my customers. There is a big demand for it here, as many people want me to replace their carpets with hardwood. I have being reading books and now work with a professional installer but there is nothing like learning from mistakes. |
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#3
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I'm hardly an expert, but I would say a mistake would be to not make sure
the paying customer understands that humidity related shrinkage gaps are to be expected. Maybe a mockup showing what it will look like in the winter is in order. Is ississauga related to Mississauga? "ississauga" wrote in message m... If you have installed hardwood what mistakes have you made? The hardwood I am installing is the 3/4 inch thick type, about 2-3 inches wide, oak and maple mostly, finished type. I am installing hardwood flooring for my customers. There is a big demand for it here, as many people want me to replace their carpets with hardwood. I have being reading books and now work with a professional installer but there is nothing like learning from mistakes. |
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#4
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In article lZ82d.57555$D%.14343@attbi_s51, "AL" wrote:
- I'm hardly an expert, but I would say a mistake would be to not make sure - the paying customer understands that humidity related shrinkage gaps are to - be expected. Maybe a mockup showing what it will look like in the winter is - in order. Or maybe it should be installed in the winter? Or would that lead to buckling in the summer? -- 8^)~~~ Sue (remove the x to e-mail) ~~~~~~ "I reserve the absolute right to be smarter today than I was yesterday." -Adlai Stevenson http://www.suzanne-eckhardt.com/ ***Revelation 22:12*** ICQ: 349878998 |
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#5
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In article lZ82d.57555$D%.14343@attbi_s51, "AL" wrote:
- I'm hardly an expert, but I would say a mistake would be to not make sure - the paying customer understands that humidity related shrinkage gaps are to - be expected. Maybe a mockup showing what it will look like in the winter is - in order. Or maybe it should be installed in the winter? Or would that lead to buckling in the summer? -- 8^)~~~ Sue (remove the x to e-mail) ~~~~~~ "I reserve the absolute right to be smarter today than I was yesterday." -Adlai Stevenson http://www.suzanne-eckhardt.com/ ***Revelation 22:12*** ICQ: 349878998 |
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#6
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AL said:
I'm hardly an expert, but I would say a mistake would be to not make sure the paying customer understands that humidity related shrinkage gaps are to be expected. Maybe a mockup showing what it will look like in the winter is in order. Or take the opportunity to sell them a furnace humidifier as well. It has worked wonders for our house and furniture, and an added benefit is that you are less susceptible to colds. FWIW, Greg G. |
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#7
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AL said:
I'm hardly an expert, but I would say a mistake would be to not make sure the paying customer understands that humidity related shrinkage gaps are to be expected. Maybe a mockup showing what it will look like in the winter is in order. Or take the opportunity to sell them a furnace humidifier as well. It has worked wonders for our house and furniture, and an added benefit is that you are less susceptible to colds. FWIW, Greg G. |
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#8
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My mistake was to use the wrong fasteners, get a proper flooring
installation tool and my experience would be to recommend staples. There are 2 or 3 brands of flooring staplers available out there. |
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#9
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My mistake was to use the wrong fasteners, get a proper flooring
installation tool and my experience would be to recommend staples. There are 2 or 3 brands of flooring staplers available out there. |
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#10
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If you can, stack the wood in the house with air spaces between boards for a
week or so to acclimate to the moisture conditions in the house. I had some freshly kiln dried flooring buckle after I installed it acclimated to the house. Remove the 'remove' in my address to e:mail me. |
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#11
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If you can, stack the wood in the house with air spaces between boards for a
week or so to acclimate to the moisture conditions in the house. I had some freshly kiln dried flooring buckle after I installed it acclimated to the house. Remove the 'remove' in my address to e:mail me. |
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#12
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You read instructions that state to allow the wood to acclimate. My
house had no AC when it was being built. The AC or heat has been running post installation and finishing for the last 6 years. The humidity was 60-80% when the flooring was installed and the temp was 10-20 degrees warmer. The wood may never see those conditions again. In an existing house the acclimation to the environement is possible. That said if you go into Atlanta houses that have hardwood installed back in the 1940s and 50s you see lots of gaps now. I suspect that has something to do with AC installed in the 80s and 90s. My parent's house built about 1900 in Cleveland Ohio had pretty tight flooring. We never had AC and the hot water radiators had humidifying trays on them. My frugal Dad rarely had the heat set above 68 so the house did not dry out the way things can here in the south with AC. emove (SteveC1280) wrote: If you can, stack the wood in the house with air spaces between boards for a week or so to acclimate to the moisture conditions in the house. I had some freshly kiln dried flooring buckle after I installed it acclimated to the house. Remove the 'remove' in my address to e:mail me. |
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#13
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You read instructions that state to allow the wood to acclimate. My
house had no AC when it was being built. The AC or heat has been running post installation and finishing for the last 6 years. The humidity was 60-80% when the flooring was installed and the temp was 10-20 degrees warmer. The wood may never see those conditions again. In an existing house the acclimation to the environement is possible. That said if you go into Atlanta houses that have hardwood installed back in the 1940s and 50s you see lots of gaps now. I suspect that has something to do with AC installed in the 80s and 90s. My parent's house built about 1900 in Cleveland Ohio had pretty tight flooring. We never had AC and the hot water radiators had humidifying trays on them. My frugal Dad rarely had the heat set above 68 so the house did not dry out the way things can here in the south with AC. emove (SteveC1280) wrote: If you can, stack the wood in the house with air spaces between boards for a week or so to acclimate to the moisture conditions in the house. I had some freshly kiln dried flooring buckle after I installed it acclimated to the house. Remove the 'remove' in my address to e:mail me. |
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#14
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Use a vapor barrier below the floor, especially over basement/crawl space.
If there's a crawl space, put plastic on the ground there too. Wilson "ississauga" wrote in message m... If you have installed hardwood what mistakes have you made? The hardwood I am installing is the 3/4 inch thick type, about 2-3 inches wide, oak and maple mostly, finished type. I am installing hardwood flooring for my customers. There is a big demand for it here, as many people want me to replace their carpets with hardwood. I have being reading books and now work with a professional installer but there is nothing like learning from mistakes. |
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#15
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Use a vapor barrier below the floor, especially over basement/crawl space.
If there's a crawl space, put plastic on the ground there too. Wilson "ississauga" wrote in message m... If you have installed hardwood what mistakes have you made? The hardwood I am installing is the 3/4 inch thick type, about 2-3 inches wide, oak and maple mostly, finished type. I am installing hardwood flooring for my customers. There is a big demand for it here, as many people want me to replace their carpets with hardwood. I have being reading books and now work with a professional installer but there is nothing like learning from mistakes. |
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#16
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ississauga wrote:
If you have installed hardwood what mistakes have you made? The hardwood I am installing is the 3/4 inch thick type, about 2-3 inches wide, oak and maple mostly, finished type. I am installing hardwood flooring for my customers. There is a big demand for it here, as many people want me to replace their carpets with hardwood. I have being reading books and now work with a professional installer but there is nothing like learning from mistakes. Assure that your first courses are dead straight and very firmly fastened. -- dadiOH _____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.0... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico ____________________________ |
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#17
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ississauga wrote:
If you have installed hardwood what mistakes have you made? The hardwood I am installing is the 3/4 inch thick type, about 2-3 inches wide, oak and maple mostly, finished type. I am installing hardwood flooring for my customers. There is a big demand for it here, as many people want me to replace their carpets with hardwood. I have being reading books and now work with a professional installer but there is nothing like learning from mistakes. Assure that your first courses are dead straight and very firmly fastened. -- dadiOH _____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.0... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico ____________________________ |
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#18
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#19
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#20
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Greg G. wrote in message . ..
AL said: I'm hardly an expert, but I would say a mistake would be to not make sure the paying customer understands that humidity related shrinkage gaps are to be expected. Maybe a mockup showing what it will look like in the winter is in order. Or take the opportunity to sell them a furnace humidifier as well. It has worked wonders for our house and furniture, and an added benefit is that you are less susceptible to colds. FWIW, Greg G. The key to avoiding seasonal shrinkage is, as said above, moisture content. Buy it from a supplier where you know it hasn't been sitting around picking up moisture in warehouses or conatainers. If it's dried right, there should be no problems. If the supplier says this is normal...go somewhere else. |
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#21
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Greg G. wrote in message . ..
AL said: I'm hardly an expert, but I would say a mistake would be to not make sure the paying customer understands that humidity related shrinkage gaps are to be expected. Maybe a mockup showing what it will look like in the winter is in order. Or take the opportunity to sell them a furnace humidifier as well. It has worked wonders for our house and furniture, and an added benefit is that you are less susceptible to colds. FWIW, Greg G. The key to avoiding seasonal shrinkage is, as said above, moisture content. Buy it from a supplier where you know it hasn't been sitting around picking up moisture in warehouses or conatainers. If it's dried right, there should be no problems. If the supplier says this is normal...go somewhere else. |
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#22
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Is such 3/4" thick flooring like this tongue and groove, or just
straight sided? Do you use those hammer type floor nailers? I'd think Oak would be pretty hard to do with those big flat floor nails. John "gots a lot of rough sawn oak and a carpet that needs replacing" |
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#23
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Is such 3/4" thick flooring like this tongue and groove, or just
straight sided? Do you use those hammer type floor nailers? I'd think Oak would be pretty hard to do with those big flat floor nails. John "gots a lot of rough sawn oak and a carpet that needs replacing" |
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#24
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JohnT. wrote:
Is such 3/4" thick flooring like this tongue and groove Yes (normally) _________________ Do you use those hammer type floor nailers? That or one using air _________________ I'd think Oak would be pretty hard to do with those big flat floor nails. Not if you avoid the Bostich nailer and use the Porta Nailer one...it has a ratchet that holds the ram down until the nail (serrated cleat, actually) is totally seated. That means you can whack it more than once; with the Bostich, one whack is all you get, terrible tool. -- dadiOH _____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.0... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico ____________________________ |
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#25
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JohnT. wrote:
Is such 3/4" thick flooring like this tongue and groove Yes (normally) _________________ Do you use those hammer type floor nailers? That or one using air _________________ I'd think Oak would be pretty hard to do with those big flat floor nails. Not if you avoid the Bostich nailer and use the Porta Nailer one...it has a ratchet that holds the ram down until the nail (serrated cleat, actually) is totally seated. That means you can whack it more than once; with the Bostich, one whack is all you get, terrible tool. -- dadiOH _____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.0... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico ____________________________ |
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#26
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"Joe" wrote
: If you have installed hardwood what mistakes have you made? The hardwood I am installing is the 3/4 inch thick type, about 2-3 inches wide, oak and maple mostly, finished type. Not really a mistake, but remove the base trim before installing the flooring, unlike all the TV experts I've seen. A piece of 1/4 round chunked onto the last board looks tacky to me. A-men! JSH |
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#27
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"Joe" wrote
: If you have installed hardwood what mistakes have you made? The hardwood I am installing is the 3/4 inch thick type, about 2-3 inches wide, oak and maple mostly, finished type. Not really a mistake, but remove the base trim before installing the flooring, unlike all the TV experts I've seen. A piece of 1/4 round chunked onto the last board looks tacky to me. A-men! JSH |
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#28
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#29
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#30
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On Thu, 16 Sep 2004 13:13:04 GMT, Joe wrote:
On 15 Sep 2004 19:42:18 -0700, (ississauga) wrote: If you have installed hardwood what mistakes have you made? The hardwood I am installing is the 3/4 inch thick type, about 2-3 inches wide, oak and maple mostly, finished type. Not really a mistake, but remove the base trim before installing the flooring, unlike all the TV experts I've seen. A piece of 1/4 round chunked onto the last board looks tacky to me. I prefer to do both, remove the base and install the 1/4 round. I like a three piece base, consisting of a flat board, the 1/4 round, and a moulded trim on top of the flat piece. In some rooms, the flat board looks great if it's 6-8 inches tall. Barry |
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#31
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On Thu, 16 Sep 2004 13:13:04 GMT, Joe wrote:
On 15 Sep 2004 19:42:18 -0700, (ississauga) wrote: If you have installed hardwood what mistakes have you made? The hardwood I am installing is the 3/4 inch thick type, about 2-3 inches wide, oak and maple mostly, finished type. Not really a mistake, but remove the base trim before installing the flooring, unlike all the TV experts I've seen. A piece of 1/4 round chunked onto the last board looks tacky to me. I prefer to do both, remove the base and install the 1/4 round. I like a three piece base, consisting of a flat board, the 1/4 round, and a moulded trim on top of the flat piece. In some rooms, the flat board looks great if it's 6-8 inches tall. Barry |
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#32
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My mistake was while operating the "manual" nailer that I hit my finger when
the hammer glanced off the window trim when I got close to the wall. It was time for me to call it a day, and I had an ugly fingernail to show off for a long time. Best part was that I didn't use any profanity! |
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#33
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My mistake was while operating the "manual" nailer that I hit my finger when
the hammer glanced off the window trim when I got close to the wall. It was time for me to call it a day, and I had an ugly fingernail to show off for a long time. Best part was that I didn't use any profanity! |
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#34
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#36
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The furnace humidifier is a good idea. When I did my floor, I did 2000
Sq Ft over a couple of weeks. I stacked the wood in the room for six weeks prior to the job, but I neglected to put spacers between layers. Oops. The first 1500 ft went well, but for the last 500 ft I got sloppy and ended up with a lot of cracks. I'm not sure if it was humidity in those bottom layers in the stack, or if it was just careless work on the home stretch. Those cracks are a constant reminder for me that I can do better if I have another chance. The power staplers save effort and make a good job. I put decorative inlays around the stair landings, really nice effect. We put hardwood in the kitchen and around a toilet, not the greatest idea but it worked out ok. I wouldn't do that again. I found a videotape of how to do hardwood floors, sold over the internet, and found that really useful. Dave "Jana" wrote in message om... Greg G. wrote in message . .. AL said: I'm hardly an expert, but I would say a mistake would be to not make sure the paying customer understands that humidity related shrinkage gaps are to be expected. Maybe a mockup showing what it will look like in the winter is in order. Or take the opportunity to sell them a furnace humidifier as well. It has worked wonders for our house and furniture, and an added benefit is that you are less susceptible to colds. FWIW, Greg G. The key to avoiding seasonal shrinkage is, as said above, moisture content. Buy it from a supplier where you know it hasn't been sitting around picking up moisture in warehouses or conatainers. If it's dried right, there should be no problems. If the supplier says this is normal...go somewhere else. |
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#37
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The furnace humidifier is a good idea. When I did my floor, I did 2000
Sq Ft over a couple of weeks. I stacked the wood in the room for six weeks prior to the job, but I neglected to put spacers between layers. Oops. The first 1500 ft went well, but for the last 500 ft I got sloppy and ended up with a lot of cracks. I'm not sure if it was humidity in those bottom layers in the stack, or if it was just careless work on the home stretch. Those cracks are a constant reminder for me that I can do better if I have another chance. The power staplers save effort and make a good job. I put decorative inlays around the stair landings, really nice effect. We put hardwood in the kitchen and around a toilet, not the greatest idea but it worked out ok. I wouldn't do that again. I found a videotape of how to do hardwood floors, sold over the internet, and found that really useful. Dave "Jana" wrote in message om... Greg G. wrote in message . .. AL said: I'm hardly an expert, but I would say a mistake would be to not make sure the paying customer understands that humidity related shrinkage gaps are to be expected. Maybe a mockup showing what it will look like in the winter is in order. Or take the opportunity to sell them a furnace humidifier as well. It has worked wonders for our house and furniture, and an added benefit is that you are less susceptible to colds. FWIW, Greg G. The key to avoiding seasonal shrinkage is, as said above, moisture content. Buy it from a supplier where you know it hasn't been sitting around picking up moisture in warehouses or conatainers. If it's dried right, there should be no problems. If the supplier says this is normal...go somewhere else. |
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#38
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I rented a pnuematic flooring stapler that required the big hammer
swing. It helps tighten up the wood as you are nailing. I have used the old fashion non power assisted where you wack the heck out of the nailer. The pnuematic assist is much easier but you still get a workout. All the flooring in my limited flooring experience has be tongue and groove where you nail into the top of the tongue. Or iis it the top of the groove. If you have a hardwood flooring supply house nearby they have installation guides. "JohnT." wrote: Is such 3/4" thick flooring like this tongue and groove, or just straight sided? Do you use those hammer type floor nailers? I'd think Oak would be pretty hard to do with those big flat floor nails. John "gots a lot of rough sawn oak and a carpet that needs replacing" |
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#39
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I rented a pnuematic flooring stapler that required the big hammer
swing. It helps tighten up the wood as you are nailing. I have used the old fashion non power assisted where you wack the heck out of the nailer. The pnuematic assist is much easier but you still get a workout. All the flooring in my limited flooring experience has be tongue and groove where you nail into the top of the tongue. Or iis it the top of the groove. If you have a hardwood flooring supply house nearby they have installation guides. "JohnT." wrote: Is such 3/4" thick flooring like this tongue and groove, or just straight sided? Do you use those hammer type floor nailers? I'd think Oak would be pretty hard to do with those big flat floor nails. John "gots a lot of rough sawn oak and a carpet that needs replacing" |
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#40
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Mistakes:
Using a manual nailer Nailing into the groove instead of the tongue Using staples instead of nails Other suggestions. Put down a long, dead straight board that will serve as your first course. IME, this is better than starting off with the actual flooring material since you can nail this sacrificial course straight down into the subfloor instead of using the angled nailer, thereby (mostly) assuring it won't move during the nailing process. Don't remove this board until you have butted at least 4 full courses against it, at which point the courses shouldn't move, no matter how much banging (manual or pneumatic) you're doing. Make very accurate measurements wall to wall in various parts of the room to determine where to put this backer board. Be sure you're not going to end up with a 1/4" last course up against a wall. Opinions may differ, but I put my backer board in the middle of the room, then used a tight groove-to-groove spline so I'd always be nailing into the tongues (sp?) as I changed direction and started working toward the opposite wall. Just one amatuer's opinion based on a job that turned out *very* well. Joe C. "ississauga" wrote in message m... If you have installed hardwood what mistakes have you made? The hardwood I am installing is the 3/4 inch thick type, about 2-3 inches wide, oak and maple mostly, finished type. I am installing hardwood flooring for my customers. There is a big demand for it here, as many people want me to replace their carpets with hardwood. I have being reading books and now work with a professional installer but there is nothing like learning from mistakes. |
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