"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
-MIKE- writes:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?

Take a photo, enlarge it, then trace the arch.

Man, that would be a BIG enlargement.

On 10/14/2017 6:55 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
-MIKE- writes:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?

Take a photo, enlarge it, then trace the arch.

Man, that would be a BIG enlargement.



Then you print it out on a dot matrix printer like a banner, same as in
1983. You still have that printer don't you?

On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 9:14:41 AM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 10/14/2017 6:55 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
-MIKE- writes:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?

Take a photo, enlarge it, then trace the arch.

Man, that would be a BIG enlargement.



Then you print it out on a dot matrix printer like a banner, same as in
1983. You still have that printer don't you?

...and if you don't have the printer:

http://dotmatrixprinting.com/

On 10/13/2017 5:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

There is definitely a steel plate between the rotted wood piece and the
wood header.
Â*Â* Then someone was an idiot when they "designed" it.


You won't find an argument from this guy.



It is hard to do but sometimes it is best to just walk away from these
type jobs.

On 10/13/2017 10:55 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:
On 10/12/2017 5:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new,
treated 2x12.Â* (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the
new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels.
If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by
bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the
radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks
to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


Scribing a 2x12 to match is the easy part. Cut it with a couple degrees
of back bevel so it slides in easier, and any high spots can be easily
planed off.

Sealing it so it does not rot again will be the real problem.

Exactly! At least several coats of sealer/paint on all sides before
installing. The brick will always weep water onto the top of the arc.

On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 23:55:19 -0400, Larry Kraus
wrote:

On 10/12/2017 5:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12.* (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the
new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels.
If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by
bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to
the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


Scribing a 2x12 to match is the easy part. Cut it with a couple degrees
of back bevel so it slides in easier, and any high spots can be easily
planed off.

Sealing it so it does not rot again will be the real problem.

The drip edge idea is a winner. Caulk, to make sure no water gets
behind it. Paint should protect the surface well enough, as long as
no water is allowed to get around the edges and sit.

On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 03:02:30 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well. Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.

Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.

Not to mention that treated lumber will still rot if it's allowed to
stay wet. It's bug resistant, not water resistant. He'd be cutting
into the important top edge, too. The, now exposed, interior of the
wood isn't as saturated as the surface.

On 10/14/17 5:02 AM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well.

None of that is true, except the dry part. All you have to do is wait
for it to dry out a bit and it takes paint fine.


Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.


Like I said, the cheapest option is to replace it with what's there.
I'm not going to charge the client to reinvent the wheel. Even if it's
a lousy wheel. :-)


Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.


I hope you're kidding.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 10/14/17 8:57 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/13/2017 5:42 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

There is definitely a steel plate between the rotted wood piece and the
wood header.
Â*Â* Then someone was an idiot when they "designed" it.


You won't find an argument from this guy.



It is hard to do but sometimes it is best to just walk away from these
type jobs.

Yeah, I know. But if I don't help her, who will?
I have a mason friend going over tomorrow to see if he can tell if that
thing is holding up the bricks.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 10/14/17 8:59 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/13/2017 10:55 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:
On 10/12/2017 5:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new,
treated 2x12.Â* (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to
the new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or
trammels. If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine
the radius by bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines
to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks
to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


Scribing a 2x12 to match is the easy part. Cut it with a couple
degrees of back bevel so it slides in easier, and any high spots can
be easily planed off.

Sealing it so it does not rot again will be the real problem.

Exactly!Â* At least several coats of sealer/paint on all sides before
installing.Â* The brick will always weep water onto the top of the arc.

I'm hoping to find a "drier" 2x12 so I can prime, but in any case, I may
put some flashing tape along the top edge.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 10/14/17 9:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 03:02:30 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well. Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.

Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.

Not to mention that treated lumber will still rot if it's allowed to
stay wet. It's bug resistant, not water resistant. He'd be cutting
into the important top edge, too. The, now exposed, interior of the
wood isn't as saturated as the surface.


1. I have liquid wood preservative.
2. It's all "bugs." Water doesn't rot wood. It's microscopic bugs and
fungus that rot wood. You ever notice how fence posts or dock posts
don't rot way underground or water. Not enough oxygen. They rot closer
to the surface.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 08:59:26 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 10/13/2017 10:55 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:
On 10/12/2017 5:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new,
treated 2x12.* (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the
new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels.
If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by
bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the
radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks
to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


Scribing a 2x12 to match is the easy part. Cut it with a couple degrees
of back bevel so it slides in easier, and any high spots can be easily
planed off.

Sealing it so it does not rot again will be the real problem.

Exactly! At least several coats of sealer/paint on all sides before
installing. The brick will always weep water onto the top of the arc.
Needs flashing

On 10/14/2017 10:46 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/14/17 8:59 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/13/2017 10:55 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:
On 10/12/2017 5:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12
is rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new,
treated 2x12.Â* (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to
the new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or
trammels. If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine
the radius by bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines
to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of
bricks to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


Scribing a 2x12 to match is the easy part. Cut it with a couple
degrees of back bevel so it slides in easier, and any high spots can
be easily planed off.

Sealing it so it does not rot again will be the real problem.

Exactly!Â* At least several coats of sealer/paint on all sides before
installing.Â* The brick will always weep water onto the top of the arc.

I'm hoping to find a "drier" 2x12 so I can prime, but in any case, I may
put some flashing tape along the top edge.


Maybe spray some of that rubberized sealant on before painting.

On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 11:35:53 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 10/14/2017 10:46 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/14/17 8:59 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/13/2017 10:55 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:
On 10/12/2017 5:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12
is rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new,
treated 2x12.* (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to
the new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or
trammels. If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine
the radius by bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines
to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of
bricks to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


Scribing a 2x12 to match is the easy part. Cut it with a couple
degrees of back bevel so it slides in easier, and any high spots can
be easily planed off.

Sealing it so it does not rot again will be the real problem.

Exactly!* At least several coats of sealer/paint on all sides before
installing.* The brick will always weep water onto the top of the arc.

I'm hoping to find a "drier" 2x12 so I can prime, but in any case, I may
put some flashing tape along the top edge.


Maybe spray some of that rubberized sealant on before painting.
or vacuum bag it in linseed oil - - -

On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 10:53:11 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 9:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 03:02:30 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well. Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.

Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.

Not to mention that treated lumber will still rot if it's allowed to
stay wet. It's bug resistant, not water resistant. He'd be cutting
into the important top edge, too. The, now exposed, interior of the
wood isn't as saturated as the surface.


1. I have liquid wood preservative.
2. It's all "bugs." Water doesn't rot wood. It's microscopic bugs and
fungus that rot wood. You ever notice how fence posts or dock posts
don't rot way underground or water. Not enough oxygen. They rot closer
to the surface.

Have you ever noticed pressure treated decking? It doesn't rot, but
it sure doesn't last very long, naked.

https://bct.eco.umass.edu/publicatio...ns-about-wood/

On 10/14/17 5:14 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 10:53:11 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 9:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 03:02:30 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well. Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.

Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.

Not to mention that treated lumber will still rot if it's allowed to
stay wet. It's bug resistant, not water resistant. He'd be cutting
into the important top edge, too. The, now exposed, interior of the
wood isn't as saturated as the surface.


1. I have liquid wood preservative.
2. It's all "bugs." Water doesn't rot wood. It's microscopic bugs and
fungus that rot wood. You ever notice how fence posts or dock posts
don't rot way underground or water. Not enough oxygen. They rot closer
to the surface.

Have you ever noticed pressure treated decking? It doesn't rot, but
it sure doesn't last very long, naked.

https://bct.eco.umass.edu/publicatio...ns-about-wood/


1. None of that is news to me nor contradicts anything I wrote.
2. What I install won't be "naked."


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 17:19:05 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 5:14 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 10:53:11 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 9:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 03:02:30 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well. Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.

Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.

Not to mention that treated lumber will still rot if it's allowed to
stay wet. It's bug resistant, not water resistant. He'd be cutting
into the important top edge, too. The, now exposed, interior of the
wood isn't as saturated as the surface.


1. I have liquid wood preservative.
2. It's all "bugs." Water doesn't rot wood. It's microscopic bugs and
fungus that rot wood. You ever notice how fence posts or dock posts
don't rot way underground or water. Not enough oxygen. They rot closer
to the surface.

Have you ever noticed pressure treated decking? It doesn't rot, but
it sure doesn't last very long, naked.

https://bct.eco.umass.edu/publicatio...ns-about-wood/


1. None of that is news to me nor contradicts anything I wrote.
2. What I install won't be "naked."

Unless the top is wrapped with flashing of some sort (with a drip edge
to divert the water away), it will remain wet. The point is that
using PT doesn't help this problem at all.

On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 6:15:03 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 10:53:11 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 9:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 03:02:30 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well. Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.

Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.

Not to mention that treated lumber will still rot if it's allowed to
stay wet. It's bug resistant, not water resistant. He'd be cutting
into the important top edge, too. The, now exposed, interior of the
wood isn't as saturated as the surface.


1. I have liquid wood preservative.
2. It's all "bugs." Water doesn't rot wood. It's microscopic bugs and
fungus that rot wood. You ever notice how fence posts or dock posts
don't rot way underground or water. Not enough oxygen. They rot closer
to the surface.

Have you ever noticed pressure treated decking? It doesn't rot, but
it sure doesn't last very long, naked.

https://bct.eco.umass.edu/publicatio...ns-about-wood/

What's your definition of "doesn't last" and "not very long"?

I've got untreated PT decking that has lasted just fine for 25+ years.

On 10/14/17 5:40 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 17:19:05 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 5:14 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 10:53:11 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 9:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 03:02:30 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well. Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.

Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.

Not to mention that treated lumber will still rot if it's allowed to
stay wet. It's bug resistant, not water resistant. He'd be cutting
into the important top edge, too. The, now exposed, interior of the
wood isn't as saturated as the surface.


1. I have liquid wood preservative.
2. It's all "bugs." Water doesn't rot wood. It's microscopic bugs and
fungus that rot wood. You ever notice how fence posts or dock posts
don't rot way underground or water. Not enough oxygen. They rot closer
to the surface.

Have you ever noticed pressure treated decking? It doesn't rot, but
it sure doesn't last very long, naked.

https://bct.eco.umass.edu/publicatio...ns-about-wood/


1. None of that is news to me nor contradicts anything I wrote.
2. What I install won't be "naked."

Unless the top is wrapped with flashing of some sort (with a drip edge
to divert the water away), it will remain wet. The point is that
using PT doesn't help this problem at all.


I covered that. Pun.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 18:23:14 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 5:40 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 17:19:05 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 5:14 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 10:53:11 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 9:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 03:02:30 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well. Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.

Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.

Not to mention that treated lumber will still rot if it's allowed to
stay wet. It's bug resistant, not water resistant. He'd be cutting
into the important top edge, too. The, now exposed, interior of the
wood isn't as saturated as the surface.


1. I have liquid wood preservative.
2. It's all "bugs." Water doesn't rot wood. It's microscopic bugs and
fungus that rot wood. You ever notice how fence posts or dock posts
don't rot way underground or water. Not enough oxygen. They rot closer
to the surface.

Have you ever noticed pressure treated decking? It doesn't rot, but
it sure doesn't last very long, naked.

https://bct.eco.umass.edu/publicatio...ns-about-wood/


1. None of that is news to me nor contradicts anything I wrote.
2. What I install won't be "naked."

Unless the top is wrapped with flashing of some sort (with a drip edge
to divert the water away), it will remain wet. The point is that
using PT doesn't help this problem at all.


I covered that. Pun.

Then there is no point in using PT, which was my point.

On 10/14/17 6:29 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 18:23:14 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 5:40 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 17:19:05 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 5:14 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 10:53:11 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 9:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 03:02:30 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well. Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.

Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.

Not to mention that treated lumber will still rot if it's allowed to
stay wet. It's bug resistant, not water resistant. He'd be cutting
into the important top edge, too. The, now exposed, interior of the
wood isn't as saturated as the surface.


1. I have liquid wood preservative.
2. It's all "bugs." Water doesn't rot wood. It's microscopic bugs and
fungus that rot wood. You ever notice how fence posts or dock posts
don't rot way underground or water. Not enough oxygen. They rot closer
to the surface.

Have you ever noticed pressure treated decking? It doesn't rot, but
it sure doesn't last very long, naked.

https://bct.eco.umass.edu/publicatio...ns-about-wood/


1. None of that is news to me nor contradicts anything I wrote.
2. What I install won't be "naked."

Unless the top is wrapped with flashing of some sort (with a drip edge
to divert the water away), it will remain wet. The point is that
using PT doesn't help this problem at all.


I covered that. Pun.

Then there is no point in using PT, which was my point.


Sure there is.
But you just argue in circles in here for your own enjoyment so you have
fun.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 16:20:00 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 6:15:03 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 10:53:11 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 9:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 03:02:30 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well. Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.

Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.

Not to mention that treated lumber will still rot if it's allowed to
stay wet. It's bug resistant, not water resistant. He'd be cutting
into the important top edge, too. The, now exposed, interior of the
wood isn't as saturated as the surface.


1. I have liquid wood preservative.
2. It's all "bugs." Water doesn't rot wood. It's microscopic bugs and
fungus that rot wood. You ever notice how fence posts or dock posts
don't rot way underground or water. Not enough oxygen. They rot closer
to the surface.

Have you ever noticed pressure treated decking? It doesn't rot, but
it sure doesn't last very long, naked.

https://bct.eco.umass.edu/publicatio...ns-about-wood/

What's your definition of "doesn't last" and "not very long"?

The article says "9 years", which is about what I've found. I have to
replace mine (the house is ten years old) and I had to replace it on
my last house (at five years). I'm not sure if I'm going to add to
the deck, and cover it, or just replace the decking. I'll probably
put it off 'til spring.

I've got untreated PT decking that has lasted just fine for 25+ years.

Without waterproofing, of some sort?

On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 18:31:53 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 6:29 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 18:23:14 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 5:40 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 17:19:05 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 5:14 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 10:53:11 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 9:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 03:02:30 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well. Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.

Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.

Not to mention that treated lumber will still rot if it's allowed to
stay wet. It's bug resistant, not water resistant. He'd be cutting
into the important top edge, too. The, now exposed, interior of the
wood isn't as saturated as the surface.


1. I have liquid wood preservative.
2. It's all "bugs." Water doesn't rot wood. It's microscopic bugs and
fungus that rot wood. You ever notice how fence posts or dock posts
don't rot way underground or water. Not enough oxygen. They rot closer
to the surface.

Have you ever noticed pressure treated decking? It doesn't rot, but
it sure doesn't last very long, naked.

https://bct.eco.umass.edu/publicatio...ns-about-wood/


1. None of that is news to me nor contradicts anything I wrote.
2. What I install won't be "naked."

Unless the top is wrapped with flashing of some sort (with a drip edge
to divert the water away), it will remain wet. The point is that
using PT doesn't help this problem at all.


I covered that. Pun.

Then there is no point in using PT, which was my point.


Sure there is.
But you just argue in circles in here for your own enjoyment so you have
fun.

If you don't want to have a conversation, you really don't have to
answer me. ...or am I that threatening to your manhood?

On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 18:31:53 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 6:29 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 18:23:14 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 5:40 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 17:19:05 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 5:14 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 10:53:11 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 9:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 03:02:30 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well. Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.

Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.

Not to mention that treated lumber will still rot if it's allowed to
stay wet. It's bug resistant, not water resistant. He'd be cutting
into the important top edge, too. The, now exposed, interior of the
wood isn't as saturated as the surface.


1. I have liquid wood preservative.
2. It's all "bugs." Water doesn't rot wood. It's microscopic bugs and
fungus that rot wood. You ever notice how fence posts or dock posts
don't rot way underground or water. Not enough oxygen. They rot closer
to the surface.

Have you ever noticed pressure treated decking? It doesn't rot, but
it sure doesn't last very long, naked.

https://bct.eco.umass.edu/publicatio...ns-about-wood/


1. None of that is news to me nor contradicts anything I wrote.
2. What I install won't be "naked."

Unless the top is wrapped with flashing of some sort (with a drip edge
to divert the water away), it will remain wet. The point is that
using PT doesn't help this problem at all.


I covered that. Pun.

Then there is no point in using PT, which was my point.


Sure there is.
But you just argue in circles in here for your own enjoyment so you have
fun.
Be a lot better to use red cedar

"-MIKE-" wrote in message news
On 10/12/17 6:51 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

..
v
Any ideas?

To start I would tack the new 2x12 (or 1x12 if it turns out to be that)
up on the side jambs even with the bottom edge of the existing arch
board, or level, which ever seems better based on the field conditions.
Then I'd scribe the curve onto the new board by following the existing
curve. This could be done with a large pencil compass. Alternatively a
board that is as long as the distance from the bottom of the curved
board to the maximum height of the curve and a pencil could be
substituted. In either case make sure the scriber is plumb as you move
across the length of the board. Any roughness in the scribed line can be
smoothed out during and after cutting the board... a slight undercut
would help with the fitting.

Another consideration might be to get some 1x12 pvc trim (or glue up
narrower boards). If needed shim it out with with the scrapes from
cutting the curve. It would hold up better than wood.


Great advice. Thanks.
PVC is a fortune around here, I don't see the client going for it.

Yeah... PVC can be a bit pricy compared to "real" wood!

Any chance you can get your client to allow you (code for "they pay for") to
put an aluminum drip cap on it? As it now water is running down the face of
the brick, and probably through the brick, and landing on the wood. I'm
thinking a hem at the back (to keep water from migrating towards the house)
and a small lip over the outside would suffice. The curve is gentle enough
that you might not have to worry about relief cuts on the lip... use a
gutter downspout crimper to shrink the lip a bit if needed... (could
probably be improvised).

https://www.amazon.com/Malco-Profess...o+gutter+tools

On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 7:33:14 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 16:20:00 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 6:15:03 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 10:53:11 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 9:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 03:02:30 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well. Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.

Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.

Not to mention that treated lumber will still rot if it's allowed to
stay wet. It's bug resistant, not water resistant. He'd be cutting
into the important top edge, too. The, now exposed, interior of the
wood isn't as saturated as the surface.


1. I have liquid wood preservative.
2. It's all "bugs." Water doesn't rot wood. It's microscopic bugs and
fungus that rot wood. You ever notice how fence posts or dock posts
don't rot way underground or water. Not enough oxygen. They rot closer
to the surface.

Have you ever noticed pressure treated decking? It doesn't rot, but
it sure doesn't last very long, naked.

https://bct.eco.umass.edu/publicatio...ns-about-wood/

What's your definition of "doesn't last" and "not very long"?

The article says "9 years", which is about what I've found. I have to
replace mine (the house is ten years old) and I had to replace it on
my last house (at five years). I'm not sure if I'm going to add to
the deck, and cover it, or just replace the decking. I'll probably
put it off 'til spring.

I've got untreated PT decking that has lasted just fine for 25+ years.

Without waterproofing, of some sort?

None. Maybe PT wood was better back then.

"-MIKE-" wrote in message news
On 10/12/17 6:51 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

..

Any ideas?

To start I would tack the new 2x12 (or 1x12 if it turns out to be that)
up on the side jambs even with the bottom edge of the existing arch
board, or level, which ever seems better based on the field conditions.
Then I'd scribe the curve onto the new board by following the existing
curve. This could be done with a large pencil compass. Alternatively a
board that is as long as the distance from the bottom of the curved board
to the maximum height of the curve and a pencil could be substituted. In
either case make sure the scriber is plumb as you move across the length
of the board. Any roughness in the scribed line can be smoothed out
during and after cutting the board... a slight undercut would help with
the fitting.

Another consideration might be to get some 1x12 pvc trim (or glue up
narrower boards). If needed shim it out with with the scrapes from
cutting the curve. It would hold up better than wood.


Great advice. Thanks.
PVC is a fortune around here, I don't see the client going for it.

I took a look at the photo again after I posted about the drip cap on the
curve... I think you also need some window/door cap flashing between the
curved board and the top board of the door frame.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax-...0120/100035439

You could probably modify this stuff for the curve too if you don't have a
brake to bend up the flashing I suggested in my prior note. For example,
trim the top leg down to about 1/4" and put some relief cuts in it. Then
turn it into a hem with a hand seamer. For example:

https://www.amazon.com/Pittsburgh-3-...gh+hand+seamer

After you have the curve bent into it apply some silicone chalk at the
relief cuts.

On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 18:24:59 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 7:33:14 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 16:20:00 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 6:15:03 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 10:53:11 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 9:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 03:02:30 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well. Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.

Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.

Not to mention that treated lumber will still rot if it's allowed to
stay wet. It's bug resistant, not water resistant. He'd be cutting
into the important top edge, too. The, now exposed, interior of the
wood isn't as saturated as the surface.


1. I have liquid wood preservative.
2. It's all "bugs." Water doesn't rot wood. It's microscopic bugs and
fungus that rot wood. You ever notice how fence posts or dock posts
don't rot way underground or water. Not enough oxygen. They rot closer
to the surface.

Have you ever noticed pressure treated decking? It doesn't rot, but
it sure doesn't last very long, naked.

https://bct.eco.umass.edu/publicatio...ns-about-wood/

What's your definition of "doesn't last" and "not very long"?

The article says "9 years", which is about what I've found. I have to
replace mine (the house is ten years old) and I had to replace it on
my last house (at five years). I'm not sure if I'm going to add to
the deck, and cover it, or just replace the decking. I'll probably
put it off 'til spring.

I've got untreated PT decking that has lasted just fine for 25+ years.

Without waterproofing, of some sort?

None. Maybe PT wood was better back then.

Amazing. The CCA stuff was a lot better, sure, but water still did it
in. I had that stuff shred on decks, too.

On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 18:24:59 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 7:33:14 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 16:20:00 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 6:15:03 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 10:53:11 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/14/17 9:04 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 03:02:30 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd
wrote:

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well. Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.

Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.

Not to mention that treated lumber will still rot if it's allowed to
stay wet. It's bug resistant, not water resistant. He'd be cutting
into the important top edge, too. The, now exposed, interior of the
wood isn't as saturated as the surface.


1. I have liquid wood preservative.
2. It's all "bugs." Water doesn't rot wood. It's microscopic bugs and
fungus that rot wood. You ever notice how fence posts or dock posts
don't rot way underground or water. Not enough oxygen. They rot closer
to the surface.

Have you ever noticed pressure treated decking? It doesn't rot, but
it sure doesn't last very long, naked.

https://bct.eco.umass.edu/publicatio...ns-about-wood/

What's your definition of "doesn't last" and "not very long"?

The article says "9 years", which is about what I've found. I have to
replace mine (the house is ten years old) and I had to replace it on
my last house (at five years). I'm not sure if I'm going to add to
the deck, and cover it, or just replace the decking. I'll probably
put it off 'til spring.

I've got untreated PT decking that has lasted just fine for 25+ years.

Without waterproofing, of some sort?

None. Maybe PT wood was better back then.
PT wood has always varied in quality from pretty decent to total
crap. The older stuff had more potent chemicals

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
On 10/14/2017 6:55 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
-MIKE- writes:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?

Take a photo, enlarge it, then trace the arch.

Man, that would be a BIG enlargement.



Then you print it out on a dot matrix printer like a banner, same as in
1983. You still have that printer don't you?

As a matter of fact I do. A brand new, never used Okidata. A box of
tractor paper too.

On Sun, 15 Oct 2017 07:47:45 -0400, "dadiOH" wrote:


"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
On 10/14/2017 6:55 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
-MIKE- writes:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?

Take a photo, enlarge it, then trace the arch.

Man, that would be a BIG enlargement.



Then you print it out on a dot matrix printer like a banner, same as in
1983. You still have that printer don't you?

As a matter of fact I do. A brand new, never used Okidata. A box of
tractor paper too.


Is tractor paper what you put on their seats when you service them?

DerbyDad03 writes:
On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 7:33:14 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 16:20:00 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

The article says "9 years", which is about what I've found. I have to
replace mine (the house is ten years old) and I had to replace it on
my last house (at five years). I'm not sure if I'm going to add to
the deck, and cover it, or just replace the decking. I'll probably
put it off 'til spring.

I've got untreated PT decking that has lasted just fine for 25+ years.

Without waterproofing, of some sort?

None. Maybe PT wood was better back then.

Or just maybe the local climate makes a difference in the longevity
of pressure treated softwoods.

"dadiOH" writes:

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
-MIKE- writes:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?

Take a photo, enlarge it, then trace the arch.

Man, that would be a BIG enlargement.


Use a pantograph from the original photo to the board itself.

On Monday, October 16, 2017 at 8:59:47 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
DerbyDad03 writes:
On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 7:33:14 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 16:20:00 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

The article says "9 years", which is about what I've found. I have to
replace mine (the house is ten years old) and I had to replace it on
my last house (at five years). I'm not sure if I'm going to add to
the deck, and cover it, or just replace the decking. I'll probably
put it off 'til spring.

I've got untreated PT decking that has lasted just fine for 25+ years.

Without waterproofing, of some sort?

None. Maybe PT wood was better back then.

Or just maybe the local climate makes a difference in the longevity
of pressure treated softwoods.

The decks/walkways in question see an average of 35" of rain and 85" of snow
per year. Both areas get shoveled, so they are rarely snow covered for any
length of time. Neither area gets any sun to speak of.

OFWW wrote in
:


Is tractor paper what you put on their seats when you service them?

It's the stuff you put under the old one that just can't stop leaking.

Even my brand new tractor had to be paper trained. :-)

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

On Monday, October 16, 2017 at 8:15:23 PM UTC-4, wrote:
OFWW wrote in
:


Is tractor paper what you put on their seats when you service them?

It's the stuff you put under the old one that just can't stop leaking.

Even my brand new tractor had to be paper trained. :-)


Did you say "tractor paper" or "paper tractor"?

http://www.aenima.agency/blog/paper-...or-john-deere/

DerbyDad03 writes:
On Monday, October 16, 2017 at 8:59:47 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
DerbyDad03 writes:
On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 7:33:14 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 16:20:00 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

The article says "9 years", which is about what I've found. I have to
replace mine (the house is ten years old) and I had to replace it on
my last house (at five years). I'm not sure if I'm going to add to
the deck, and cover it, or just replace the decking. I'll probably
put it off 'til spring.

I've got untreated PT decking that has lasted just fine for 25+ years.

Without waterproofing, of some sort?

None. Maybe PT wood was better back then.

Or just maybe the local climate makes a difference in the longevity
of pressure treated softwoods.

The decks/walkways in question see an average of 35" of rain and 85" of snow
per year. Both areas get shoveled, so they are rarely snow covered for any
length of time. Neither area gets any sun to speak of.

And around here, we're lucky to get 15" total moisture annually (99% from
November through April). PT lasts a long time.

On Tue, 17 Oct 2017 12:53:08 GMT, (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

DerbyDad03 writes:
On Monday, October 16, 2017 at 8:59:47 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
DerbyDad03 writes:
On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 7:33:14 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 16:20:00 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

The article says "9 years", which is about what I've found. I have to
replace mine (the house is ten years old) and I had to replace it on
my last house (at five years). I'm not sure if I'm going to add to
the deck, and cover it, or just replace the decking. I'll probably
put it off 'til spring.

I've got untreated PT decking that has lasted just fine for 25+ years.

Without waterproofing, of some sort?

None. Maybe PT wood was better back then.

Or just maybe the local climate makes a difference in the longevity
of pressure treated softwoods.

The decks/walkways in question see an average of 35" of rain and 85" of snow
per year. Both areas get shoveled, so they are rarely snow covered for any
length of time. Neither area gets any sun to speak of.

And around here, we're lucky to get 15" total moisture annually (99% from
November through April). PT lasts a long time.
Untreated SPF would likely last in that climate with a cheap coat of
paint - perhaps even without.

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 5:59:44 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the
new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels.
If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by
bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the radius..

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to
the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

Protect the door and rip out the wood back to clean bricks. Rip some Luan or door skin into 2'x8', however many it takes to span the opening at ground level. Tack it together and tack it to the frame so it stands verticaly. Drop a plumb bob from the bricks to the luan and make a mark. Touch each brick or every few inches, whatever works for you, and make a mark. Work side to side plotting as you go. Connect the dots and cut on the line to describe a rough copy of the arch. Hold it up and scribe it close for a good fit. Transfer the arc to the new material. Works every time.

On 10/17/17 6:53 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
DerbyDad03 writes:
On Monday, October 16, 2017 at 8:59:47 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
DerbyDad03 writes:
On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 7:33:14 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Oct 2017 16:20:00 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

The article says "9 years", which is about what I've found. I have to
replace mine (the house is ten years old) and I had to replace it on
my last house (at five years). I'm not sure if I'm going to add to
the deck, and cover it, or just replace the decking. I'll probably
put it off 'til spring.

I've got untreated PT decking that has lasted just fine for 25+ years.

Without waterproofing, of some sort?

None. Maybe PT wood was better back then.

Or just maybe the local climate makes a difference in the longevity
of pressure treated softwoods.

The decks/walkways in question see an average of 35" of rain and 85" of snow
per year. Both areas get shoveled, so they are rarely snow covered for any
length of time. Neither area gets any sun to speak of.

And around here, we're lucky to get 15" total moisture annually (99% from
November through April). PT lasts a long time.


In these parts we get more rain in a year than most places get in a
single day. PT lumber typically dissolves from UV exposure.

-BR