https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the
new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels.
If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by
bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to
the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 2017-10-12 5:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12.Â* (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the
new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels.
If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by
bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to
the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


Large long roll of paper, and tape, make a pattern then proceed with the
demolition?

On 12-Oct-17 4:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
....

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to
the new 2x12.
....

Roughly FN's idea but use more solid material for your pattern than
paper...anything will do from masonite to ply to even cardboard just
need something stiff-enough can fit and scribe from it reliably.

Start since you still have the lower edge intact by measuring the
vertical height every few inches so can fit a fair curve, then cut out
the pattern a little proud and fit in place. Once you've got the
pattern made, then you're good to go...

--

On 10/12/2017 6:14 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:
On 2017-10-12 5:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new,
treated 2x12.Â* (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the
new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels.
If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by
bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the
radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks
to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


Large long roll of paper, and tape, make a pattern then proceed with the
demolition?


I would do that as first step but before cutting the wood, I'd transfer
it to cardboard or hardboard to be sure of the fit.

I'm impressed that the builder made the arch like that. So many
buildings are just plain boxes.

On 10/12/17 6:28 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 10/12/2017 6:14 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:
On 2017-10-12 5:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new,
treated 2x12.Â* (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to
the new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or
trammels. If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine
the radius by bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines
to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks
to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


Large long roll of paper, and tape, make a pattern then proceed with
the demolition?


I would do that as first step but before cutting the wood, I'd transfer
it to cardboard or hardboard to be sure of the fit.

I'm impressed that the builder made the arch like that.Â* So many
buildings are just plain boxes.


Yes and no.
Adding an arch, yes.
Adding a make-shift arch with not continuous, measurable curve, no.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

"-MIKE-" wrote in message news
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

...

Any ideas?

To start I would tack the new 2x12 (or 1x12 if it turns out to be that) up
on the side jambs even with the bottom edge of the existing arch board, or
level, which ever seems better based on the field conditions. Then I'd
scribe the curve onto the new board by following the existing curve. This
could be done with a large pencil compass. Alternatively a board that is as
long as the distance from the bottom of the curved board to the maximum
height of the curve and a pencil could be substituted. In either case make
sure the scriber is plumb as you move across the length of the board. Any
roughness in the scribed line can be smoothed out during and after cutting
the board... a slight undercut would help with the fitting.

Another consideration might be to get some 1x12 pvc trim (or glue up
narrower boards). If needed shim it out with with the scrapes from cutting
the curve. It would hold up better than wood.

On 10/12/2017 7:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:


Large long roll of paper, and tape, make a pattern then proceed with
the demolition?


I would do that as first step but before cutting the wood, I'd
transfer it to cardboard or hardboard to be sure of the fit.

I'm impressed that the builder made the arch like that.Â* So many
buildings are just plain boxes.


Yes and no.
Adding an arch, yes.
Adding a make-shift arch with not continuous, measurable curve, no.


It look close to just a curve near the top and straight line to the
ends. You can always cut it straight for the most part and use a
boatload of caulk. Just be sure to get paid before the customer get
within 20 feet of it.

On 10/12/17 6:51 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"-MIKE-"Â* wrote in message news
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12.Â* (Client wants cheapest option.)

..

Any ideas?

To start I would tack the new 2x12 (or 1x12 if it turns out to be that)
up on the side jambs even with the bottom edge of the existing arch
board, or level, which ever seems better based on the field conditions.
Then I'd scribe the curve onto the new board by following the existing
curve. This could be done with a large pencil compass. Alternatively a
board that is as long as the distance from the bottom of the curved
board to the maximum height of the curve and a pencil could be
substituted. In either case make sure the scriber is plumb as you move
across the length of the board. Any roughness in the scribed line can be
smoothed out during and after cutting the board... a slight undercut
would help with the fitting.

Another consideration might be to get some 1x12 pvc trim (or glue up
narrower boards). If needed shim it out with with the scrapes from
cutting the curve. It would hold up better than wood.


Great advice. Thanks.
PVC is a fortune around here, I don't see the client going for it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 12-Oct-17 8:03 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/17 6:51 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)
....

Double- and triple-check -- the brick may be overlaid veneer in front of
the frieze board so you don't have to scribe it at all...

--

On 10/12/17 8:18 PM, dpb wrote:
On 12-Oct-17 8:03 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/17 6:51 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"-MIKE-"Â* wrote in message news
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12.Â* (Client wants cheapest option.)
...

Double- and triple-check -- the brick may be overlaid veneer in front of
the frieze board so you don't have to scribe it at all...


There bricks and board are on the same plane.
What's interesting is that the board in between the lintel and the bricks.
I'm not a mason, but I always thought the lintel was to support a course
of bricks above wood. Either way, the wood board is cut on that curve,
not behind the bricks.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Thu, 12 Oct 2017 16:59:38 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the
new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels.
If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by
bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to
the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?

Tape paper to the bricks and tranfer by rubbing powder line chalk? Get
the curve from the bricks.

On Thu, 12 Oct 2017 20:03:22 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/12/17 6:51 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"-MIKE-"* wrote in message news
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12.* (Client wants cheapest option.)

..

Any ideas?

To start I would tack the new 2x12 (or 1x12 if it turns out to be that)
up on the side jambs even with the bottom edge of the existing arch
board, or level, which ever seems better based on the field conditions.
Then I'd scribe the curve onto the new board by following the existing
curve. This could be done with a large pencil compass. Alternatively a
board that is as long as the distance from the bottom of the curved
board to the maximum height of the curve and a pencil could be
substituted. In either case make sure the scriber is plumb as you move
across the length of the board. Any roughness in the scribed line can be
smoothed out during and after cutting the board... a slight undercut
would help with the fitting.

Another consideration might be to get some 1x12 pvc trim (or glue up
narrower boards). If needed shim it out with with the scrapes from
cutting the curve. It would hold up better than wood.


Great advice. Thanks.
PVC is a fortune around here, I don't see the client going for it.
I'd set the trim board back a bit behind the brick line and run a
drip mold on it and on the top of the door frame, and prime and paint
all the edges before installing. It's not weight bearing? I'd really
think about cedar 1X instead of PT - likely last a lot longer.

On Thu, 12 Oct 2017 20:18:38 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 12-Oct-17 8:03 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/17 6:51 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)
...

Double- and triple-check -- the brick may be overlaid veneer in front of
the frieze board so you don't have to scribe it at all...
Looking at the picture the bricks and the board look to be pretty
well flush, - so it WILL need to be scribed to fit

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 9:27:39 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/17 8:18 PM, dpb wrote:
On 12-Oct-17 8:03 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/17 6:51 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"-MIKE-"Â* wrote in message news
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12.Â* (Client wants cheapest option.)
...

Double- and triple-check -- the brick may be overlaid veneer in front of
the frieze board so you don't have to scribe it at all...


There bricks and board are on the same plane.
What's interesting is that the board in between the lintel and the bricks..
I'm not a mason, but I always thought the lintel was to support a course
of bricks above wood. Either way, the wood board is cut on that curve,
not behind the bricks.


That concerns me a bit. It sounds like the lintel is acting as a header
and the curved board is (was) acting as the lintel for the bricks. Granted,
the arch of the brick itself, although it's not much, probably helps support
the brick *somewhat* but not that much.

Is there a gap between the rotted wood and the brick or is the brick resting
on the wood? If the wood is supposed to be supporting the brick above, you
better get it right and get it right fast.

I think the rotted board is not supporting the bricks, if those bricks are full size bricks. There's probably some metal support (I-beam?) behind the rotted board, supporting the brick wall (and maybe partially the arch).

To me, the (upright) brick arch is simply decoration, probably not full bricks. Its arc is not supporting the brick wall and that should be obvious by the fact that the bricks adjacent to the keystone have been cut, inappropriately, defeating the purpose of a true keystone function. If the rotted board was for support, then likely the bricks and mortar, above, would have cracks, somewhere. The rotted board, I suspect, is simply a space filler.

-MIKE- writes:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?

Take a photo, enlarge it, then trace the arch.

"-MIKE-" wrote in message news
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a screwdriver
or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated 2x12. (Client
wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the new
2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels. If this
was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by bisecting
the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch "flattens
out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to transfer the
exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even several
pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch" onto the new
board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


It appears as though the 'mason' used a springy board to scribe/cut the
field bricks, then again to support the arch bricks. This shortcut explains
the straight ends. The tightest curvature at the apex is the result of the
flexibility of the springy board and the amount of pressure applied from
below.

I think the best way to match the arch will be to scribe vertically with a
large compass as suggested by other contributors.
Scott in Dunedin

On 10/13/17 8:14 AM, ScottWW wrote:
"-MIKE-"Â* wrote in message news https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new,
treated 2x12.Â* (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the
new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels.
If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by
bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the
radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks
to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


It appears as though the 'mason' used a springy board to scribe/cut the
field bricks, then again to support the arch bricks. This shortcut
explains the straight ends.Â* The tightest curvature at the apex is the
result of the flexibility of the springy board and the amount of
pressure applied from below.


That was my thought as well for the same reasons you described.


I think the best way to match the arch will be to scribe vertically with
a large compass as suggested by other contributors.
Scott in Dunedin

That's leading the field in my head right now.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 10/13/17 12:02 AM, Sonny wrote:
I think the rotted board is not supporting the bricks, if those
bricks are full size bricks. There's probably some metal support
(I-beam?) behind the rotted board, supporting the brick wall (and
maybe partially the arch).


There's no way that board is supporting anything except the coat of
paint lying on it.
And I have have that the wrong way around. :-)


To me, the (upright) brick arch is simply decoration, probably not
full bricks. Its arc is not supporting the brick wall and that
should be obvious by the fact that the bricks adjacent to the
keystone have been cut, inappropriately, defeating the purpose of a
true keystone function. If the rotted board was for support, then
likely the bricks and mortar, above, would have cracks, somewhere.
The rotted board, I suspect, is simply a space filler.

Large/long pieces of cardboard would be my choice for pattern
making. Might only need to scribe half the span, i.e., mirror image
halves. If it's discovered that the board isn't for support, then
you wouldn't need to cut a full length board for replacement. Two
boards connected by a lap joint would be easier to 1) dry fit and 2)
for final installment for a good tight fit at the pointy ends.
Caulk first, before permanently jamming the boards/"pointies" in.

Sonny


I can't mirror it because the two sides don't match. (You can see it
better with the naked eye on site.)
I'd prefer not to use two sections. Even if I glue and sand, I'm sure
that joint would open up some time next summer.

If I'm lucky, maybe the inside, behind this, is open and I can get up in
there and trace the opening from the back. Doubt it, but who knows. I
just hope there's sufficient nailing surface behind it.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 10/12/17 10:23 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 12 Oct 2017 20:27:35 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/12/17 8:18 PM, dpb wrote:
On 12-Oct-17 8:03 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/17 6:51 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"-MIKE-"Â* wrote in message news
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12.Â* (Client wants cheapest option.)
...

Double- and triple-check -- the brick may be overlaid veneer in front of
the frieze board so you don't have to scribe it at all...


There bricks and board are on the same plane.
What's interesting is that the board in between the lintel and the bricks.
I'm not a mason, but I always thought the lintel was to support a course
of bricks above wood. Either way, the wood board is cut on that curve,
not behind the bricks.
Sure doesn't look like an original setup. Someones been fiddling
before. Origionally the door fit BEHIND the brick and was a higher
door.(possibly 5 panel, or larger panels) He or someone before him
"cheaped out" once before and now it's coming back to bite him.


The guy definitely "cheaped out" from the testimony of all the home
owners around here, but it is indeed original.
A lot of these houses have these arched facades over straight openings,
just to create the illusion.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 10/12/2017 7:51 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"-MIKE-"Â* wrote in message news
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12.Â* (Client wants cheapest option.)

..

Any ideas?

To start I would tack the new 2x12 (or 1x12 if it turns out to be that) up
on the side jambs even with the bottom edge of the existing arch board, or
level, which ever seems better based on the field conditions. Then I'd
scribe the curve onto the new board by following the existing curve. This
could be done with a large pencil compass. Alternatively a board that is as
long as the distance from the bottom of the curved board to the maximum
height of the curve and a pencil could be substituted. In either case make
sure the scriber is plumb as you move across the length of the board. Any
roughness in the scribed line can be smoothed out during and after cutting
the board... a slight undercut would help with the fitting.

Another consideration might be to get some 1x12 pvc trim (or glue up
narrower boards). If needed shim it out with with the scrapes from cutting
the curve. It would hold up better than wood.


I'd think that scribing would be a great idea. It needs to be carefully
done, keeping the compass (or whatever equivalent is being used) perfectly
vertical all the time. I've done it using a stick with a pencil stub taped
to it -- not the best solution but I didn't have a proper compass at the time.

From looking at that picture I'd be more concerned about the structural
integrity of the whole opening. I hope that the existing wood isn't
actually supporting those bricks even slightly -- the arch isn't deep
enough to be in any way self-supporting.

On 10/12/17 10:17 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 9:27:39 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/17 8:18 PM, dpb wrote:
On 12-Oct-17 8:03 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/17 6:51 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"-MIKE-"Â* wrote in message news
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12.Â* (Client wants cheapest option.)
...

Double- and triple-check -- the brick may be overlaid veneer in front of
the frieze board so you don't have to scribe it at all...


There bricks and board are on the same plane.
What's interesting is that the board in between the lintel and the bricks.
I'm not a mason, but I always thought the lintel was to support a course
of bricks above wood. Either way, the wood board is cut on that curve,
not behind the bricks.


That concerns me a bit. It sounds like the lintel is acting as a header
and the curved board is (was) acting as the lintel for the bricks. Granted,
the arch of the brick itself, although it's not much, probably helps support
the brick *somewhat* but not that much.

Is there a gap between the rotted wood and the brick or is the brick resting
on the wood? If the wood is supposed to be supporting the brick above, you
better get it right and get it right fast.


I'm about 99% sure the board is not supporting the bricks.
The board is so rotted I can pull chunks out with my bare hand.
And Sonny pointed out, there isn't a single crack in the bricks/mortar
above it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 09:14:44 -0400, "ScottWW"
wrote:

"-MIKE-" wrote in message news https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a screwdriver
or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated 2x12. (Client
wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the new
2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels. If this
was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by bisecting
the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch "flattens
out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to transfer the
exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even several
pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch" onto the new
board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


It appears as though the 'mason' used a springy board to scribe/cut the
field bricks, then again to support the arch bricks. This shortcut explains
the straight ends. The tightest curvature at the apex is the result of the
flexibility of the springy board and the amount of pressure applied from
below.

I think the best way to match the arch will be to scribe vertically with a
large compass as suggested by other contributors.
Scott in Dunedin


I'm still, drom looking at lots of houses in our area built with the
arch above the door, almost CERTAIN someone has modified the original
install, and the original door closed bshind the brick arch. The
"reveal" of the arch (where the board is now) showed the top of the
square topped door - while the brick arch hid the square corners of
the door. The iron lintel is above the arched bricks, which are a
combination of self supporting and brick-tied to the main structure.

There are literally hundreds, and even thousands, of garage doors
built that way around here (Waterloo Region, Ontario) -could not be
done in the days of the one-piece overhead door, but very simple with
the segmented roll-up doors in common use today.

Mike, as many have said, make a template (paper, etc)- and we all know you thought of that.
I would make the template, leaving everything in place, transfer it to a piece of 1/4" ply and shape it to fit.

THEN remove the existing board, cut the new board to rough shape, template rout to final shape and install.

On 10/13/17 9:53 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 09:14:44 -0400, "ScottWW"
wrote:

"-MIKE-" wrote in message news https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a screwdriver
or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated 2x12. (Client
wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the new
2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels. If this
was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by bisecting
the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch "flattens
out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to transfer the
exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even several
pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch" onto the new
board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


It appears as though the 'mason' used a springy board to scribe/cut the
field bricks, then again to support the arch bricks. This shortcut explains
the straight ends. The tightest curvature at the apex is the result of the
flexibility of the springy board and the amount of pressure applied from
below.

I think the best way to match the arch will be to scribe vertically with a
large compass as suggested by other contributors.
Scott in Dunedin


I'm still, drom looking at lots of houses in our area built with the
arch above the door, almost CERTAIN someone has modified the original
install, and the original door closed bshind the brick arch. The
"reveal" of the arch (where the board is now) showed the top of the
square topped door - while the brick arch hid the square corners of
the door. The iron lintel is above the arched bricks, which are a
combination of self supporting and brick-tied to the main structure.

There are literally hundreds, and even thousands, of garage doors
built that way around here (Waterloo Region, Ontario) -could not be
done in the days of the one-piece overhead door, but very simple with
the segmented roll-up doors in common use today.


The only thing that makes me doubt your premise is the lintel below the
white board.
If it was put in after all that, then why a lintel?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 10/12/2017 6:28 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 10/12/2017 6:14 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:
On 2017-10-12 5:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new,
treated 2x12.Â* (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to
the new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or
trammels. If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine
the radius by bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines
to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks
to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


Large long roll of paper, and tape, make a pattern then proceed with
the demolition?


I would do that as first step but before cutting the wood, I'd transfer
it to cardboard or hardboard to be sure of the fit.

I'm impressed that the builder made the arch like that.Â* So many
buildings are just plain boxes.


Well IMHO technically the builder made a fancy but poorly thought out
design. The bricks should never be sitting on top of wood. That
designed was destined to fail.

How this was done,,,,

The brick mason made a template to hold the bricks into that arch
design and used the same template to transfer the arc to the 2x12.

Or the 2x12 was cut and in place and the brick mason stacked bricks on
top of that.

On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 09:47:10 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/12/17 10:23 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 12 Oct 2017 20:27:35 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/12/17 8:18 PM, dpb wrote:
On 12-Oct-17 8:03 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/17 6:51 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"-MIKE-"* wrote in message news
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12.* (Client wants cheapest option.)
...

Double- and triple-check -- the brick may be overlaid veneer in front of
the frieze board so you don't have to scribe it at all...


There bricks and board are on the same plane.
What's interesting is that the board in between the lintel and the bricks.
I'm not a mason, but I always thought the lintel was to support a course
of bricks above wood. Either way, the wood board is cut on that curve,
not behind the bricks.
Sure doesn't look like an original setup. Someones been fiddling
before. Origionally the door fit BEHIND the brick and was a higher
door.(possibly 5 panel, or larger panels) He or someone before him
"cheaped out" once before and now it's coming back to bite him.


The guy definitely "cheaped out" from the testimony of all the home
owners around here, but it is indeed original.
A lot of these houses have these arched facades over straight openings,
just to create the illusion.
Bur nit done the way that one is done. I'll bet most of the others
have the door reACHING TO THE TOP OF THE ARCH,

On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 10:05:23 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/13/17 9:53 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 09:14:44 -0400, "ScottWW"
wrote:

"-MIKE-" wrote in message news https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a screwdriver
or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated 2x12. (Client
wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the new
2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels. If this
was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by bisecting
the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch "flattens
out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to transfer the
exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even several
pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch" onto the new
board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


It appears as though the 'mason' used a springy board to scribe/cut the
field bricks, then again to support the arch bricks. This shortcut explains
the straight ends. The tightest curvature at the apex is the result of the
flexibility of the springy board and the amount of pressure applied from
below.

I think the best way to match the arch will be to scribe vertically with a
large compass as suggested by other contributors.
Scott in Dunedin


I'm still, drom looking at lots of houses in our area built with the
arch above the door, almost CERTAIN someone has modified the original
install, and the original door closed bshind the brick arch. The
"reveal" of the arch (where the board is now) showed the top of the
square topped door - while the brick arch hid the square corners of
the door. The iron lintel is above the arched bricks, which are a
combination of self supporting and brick-tied to the main structure.

There are literally hundreds, and even thousands, of garage doors
built that way around here (Waterloo Region, Ontario) -could not be
done in the days of the one-piece overhead door, but very simple with
the segmented roll-up doors in common use today.


The only thing that makes me doubt your premise is the lintel below the
white board.
If it was put in after all that, then why a lintel?
I'd say it's not a lintel, but a simple "jam" for the garage door.
Looks to me like a door kit too low for the opening was installed
under the arch of the opening.

On 10/13/17 1:33 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 10:05:23 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/13/17 9:53 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 09:14:44 -0400, "ScottWW"
wrote:

"-MIKE-" wrote in message news https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a screwdriver
or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated 2x12. (Client
wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the new
2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels. If this
was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by bisecting
the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch "flattens
out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to transfer the
exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even several
pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch" onto the new
board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


It appears as though the 'mason' used a springy board to scribe/cut the
field bricks, then again to support the arch bricks. This shortcut explains
the straight ends. The tightest curvature at the apex is the result of the
flexibility of the springy board and the amount of pressure applied from
below.

I think the best way to match the arch will be to scribe vertically with a
large compass as suggested by other contributors.
Scott in Dunedin


I'm still, drom looking at lots of houses in our area built with the
arch above the door, almost CERTAIN someone has modified the original
install, and the original door closed bshind the brick arch. The
"reveal" of the arch (where the board is now) showed the top of the
square topped door - while the brick arch hid the square corners of
the door. The iron lintel is above the arched bricks, which are a
combination of self supporting and brick-tied to the main structure.

There are literally hundreds, and even thousands, of garage doors
built that way around here (Waterloo Region, Ontario) -could not be
done in the days of the one-piece overhead door, but very simple with
the segmented roll-up doors in common use today.


The only thing that makes me doubt your premise is the lintel below the
white board.
If it was put in after all that, then why a lintel?
I'd say it's not a lintel, but a simple "jam" for the garage door.
Looks to me like a door kit too low for the opening was installed
under the arch of the opening.


There is definitely a steel plate between the rotted wood piece and the
wood header.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 10/13/2017 1:33 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 10:05:23 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/13/17 9:53 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 09:14:44 -0400, "ScottWW"
wrote:

"-MIKE-" wrote in message news https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a screwdriver
or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated 2x12. (Client
wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the new
2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels. If this
was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by bisecting
the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch "flattens
out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to transfer the
exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even several
pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch" onto the new
board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


It appears as though the 'mason' used a springy board to scribe/cut the
field bricks, then again to support the arch bricks. This shortcut explains
the straight ends. The tightest curvature at the apex is the result of the
flexibility of the springy board and the amount of pressure applied from
below.

I think the best way to match the arch will be to scribe vertically with a
large compass as suggested by other contributors.
Scott in Dunedin


I'm still, drom looking at lots of houses in our area built with the
arch above the door, almost CERTAIN someone has modified the original
install, and the original door closed bshind the brick arch. The
"reveal" of the arch (where the board is now) showed the top of the
square topped door - while the brick arch hid the square corners of
the door. The iron lintel is above the arched bricks, which are a
combination of self supporting and brick-tied to the main structure.

There are literally hundreds, and even thousands, of garage doors
built that way around here (Waterloo Region, Ontario) -could not be
done in the days of the one-piece overhead door, but very simple with
the segmented roll-up doors in common use today.


The only thing that makes me doubt your premise is the lintel below the
white board.
If it was put in after all that, then why a lintel?
I'd say it's not a lintel, but a simple "jam" for the garage door.
Looks to me like a door kit too low for the opening was installed
under the arch of the opening.


The jam is typically under the steel angle iron that supports the brick
and or in this case the arched 2x12.

On 10/13/2017 1:30 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 09:47:10 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/12/17 10:23 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 12 Oct 2017 20:27:35 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/12/17 8:18 PM, dpb wrote:
On 12-Oct-17 8:03 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/12/17 6:51 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"-MIKE-"Â* wrote in message news
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12.Â* (Client wants cheapest option.)
...

Double- and triple-check -- the brick may be overlaid veneer in front of
the frieze board so you don't have to scribe it at all...


There bricks and board are on the same plane.
What's interesting is that the board in between the lintel and the bricks.
I'm not a mason, but I always thought the lintel was to support a course
of bricks above wood. Either way, the wood board is cut on that curve,
not behind the bricks.
Sure doesn't look like an original setup. Someones been fiddling
before. Origionally the door fit BEHIND the brick and was a higher
door.(possibly 5 panel, or larger panels) He or someone before him
"cheaped out" once before and now it's coming back to bite him.


The guy definitely "cheaped out" from the testimony of all the home
owners around here, but it is indeed original.
A lot of these houses have these arched facades over straight openings,
just to create the illusion.
Bur nit done the way that one is done. I'll bet most of the others
have the door reACHING TO THE TOP OF THE ARCH,


Perhaps but I have several doors done exactly like this back about 30
years ago. A poor design by the architect.

On 13-Oct-17 2:53 PM, Leon wrote:
....

The jam is typically under the steel angle iron that supports the brick
and or in this case the arched 2x12.

No wonder it rotted...all that sugar! (missing a 'b' here we are...
) Of course, the portion in question is the head; the jambs are the two
verticals. And, yes, slap me w/ the pedant noodle...

--

On 10/13/2017 4:11 PM, dpb wrote:
On 13-Oct-17 2:53 PM, Leon wrote:
...

The jam is typically under the steel angle iron that supports the brick
and or in this case the arched 2x12.

No wonder it rotted...all that sugar!Â* (missing a 'b' here we are...
)Â* Of course, the portion in question is the head; the jambs are the two
verticals.Â* And, yes, slap me w/ the pedant noodle...

--



LOL.... Darn Spell Checker. Made Jelly into Jam. l~)

On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 14:19:34 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/13/17 1:33 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 10:05:23 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/13/17 9:53 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 09:14:44 -0400, "ScottWW"
wrote:

"-MIKE-" wrote in message news https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a screwdriver
or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated 2x12. (Client
wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the new
2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels. If this
was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by bisecting
the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch "flattens
out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to transfer the
exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even several
pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch" onto the new
board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


It appears as though the 'mason' used a springy board to scribe/cut the
field bricks, then again to support the arch bricks. This shortcut explains
the straight ends. The tightest curvature at the apex is the result of the
flexibility of the springy board and the amount of pressure applied from
below.

I think the best way to match the arch will be to scribe vertically with a
large compass as suggested by other contributors.
Scott in Dunedin


I'm still, drom looking at lots of houses in our area built with the
arch above the door, almost CERTAIN someone has modified the original
install, and the original door closed bshind the brick arch. The
"reveal" of the arch (where the board is now) showed the top of the
square topped door - while the brick arch hid the square corners of
the door. The iron lintel is above the arched bricks, which are a
combination of self supporting and brick-tied to the main structure.

There are literally hundreds, and even thousands, of garage doors
built that way around here (Waterloo Region, Ontario) -could not be
done in the days of the one-piece overhead door, but very simple with
the segmented roll-up doors in common use today.


The only thing that makes me doubt your premise is the lintel below the
white board.
If it was put in after all that, then why a lintel?
I'd say it's not a lintel, but a simple "jam" for the garage door.
Looks to me like a door kit too low for the opening was installed
under the arch of the opening.


There is definitely a steel plate between the rotted wood piece and the
wood header.
Then someone was an idiot when they "designed" it.

On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 16:11:37 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 13-Oct-17 2:53 PM, Leon wrote:
...

The jam is typically under the steel angle iron that supports the brick
and or in this case the arched 2x12.

No wonder it rotted...all that sugar! (missing a 'b' here we are...
) Of course, the portion in question is the head; the jambs are the two
verticals. And, yes, slap me w/ the pedant noodle...
I guess the word I was looking for is "casing" or "Door-Frame"

On 10/13/17 5:18 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 14:19:34 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/13/17 1:33 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 10:05:23 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 10/13/17 9:53 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 09:14:44 -0400, "ScottWW"
wrote:

"-MIKE-" wrote in message news https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a screwdriver
or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated 2x12. (Client
wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the new
2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels. If this
was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by bisecting
the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch "flattens
out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to transfer the
exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even several
pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch" onto the new
board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


It appears as though the 'mason' used a springy board to scribe/cut the
field bricks, then again to support the arch bricks. This shortcut explains
the straight ends. The tightest curvature at the apex is the result of the
flexibility of the springy board and the amount of pressure applied from
below.

I think the best way to match the arch will be to scribe vertically with a
large compass as suggested by other contributors.
Scott in Dunedin


I'm still, drom looking at lots of houses in our area built with the
arch above the door, almost CERTAIN someone has modified the original
install, and the original door closed bshind the brick arch. The
"reveal" of the arch (where the board is now) showed the top of the
square topped door - while the brick arch hid the square corners of
the door. The iron lintel is above the arched bricks, which are a
combination of self supporting and brick-tied to the main structure.

There are literally hundreds, and even thousands, of garage doors
built that way around here (Waterloo Region, Ontario) -could not be
done in the days of the one-piece overhead door, but very simple with
the segmented roll-up doors in common use today.


The only thing that makes me doubt your premise is the lintel below the
white board.
If it was put in after all that, then why a lintel?
I'd say it's not a lintel, but a simple "jam" for the garage door.
Looks to me like a door kit too low for the opening was installed
under the arch of the opening.


There is definitely a steel plate between the rotted wood piece and the
wood header.
Then someone was an idiot when they "designed" it.


You won't find an argument from this guy.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

-MIKE- wrote:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the
new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels.
If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by
bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to
the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?

You're dealing with a kinda elliptical segmental arch.
http://www.sweethaven02.com/BldgCons...02/fig0748.jpg

Rather than trying to transfer the archline with large dividers, what
about cheap, narrow, double sided tape along the curved bottom face
of the soldiers?
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-1-2-...ape-45882.html

Since dimensions weren't given let's say the arch is 16' wide, and
the top of the soldiers are 20" at the peak (pinnacle?) of the arch.

From a 4X8 sheet of lauan (or cheap thin ply) rip 2 ea. 15" X 8' pieces.
Divide the task in half (left half & right half). Measure/mark the center of the keystone.

Right side - From that mark, lightly apply the double sided tape
directly to the brick all the way to the bottom of the arch.

Since you've got that piece of molding protruding outward, ruining
the length of the span under the arch, rest the factory edge of one
of the 15" X 8' pieces of ply on it and apply just enough pressure to
get the tape to stick to the smooth, CLEAN ply.
Carfully remove said ply ,aking sure the tape stays on and voila!

Using the other piece of ply, do the above for the left side as well.

* Hopefully the tape will not adhere to the dirty rough bricks as
strongly as it will to the CLEAN smooth ply but you'd prolly want to
test it first. If it does stick to brick too much, apply blue
painter's tape to the bricks 1st, then the double sided tape.

On Fri, 13 Oct 2017 23:49:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

-MIKE- wrote:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the
new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels.
If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by
bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to
the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?

You're dealing with a kinda elliptical segmental arch.
http://www.sweethaven02.com/BldgCons...02/fig0748.jpg

Rather than trying to transfer the archline with large dividers, what
about cheap, narrow, double sided tape along the curved bottom face
of the soldiers?
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-1-2-...ape-45882.html

Since dimensions weren't given let's say the arch is 16' wide, and
the top of the soldiers are 20" at the peak (pinnacle?) of the arch.

From a 4X8 sheet of lauan (or cheap thin ply) rip 2 ea. 15" X 8' pieces.
Divide the task in half (left half & right half). Measure/mark the center of the keystone.

Right side - From that mark, lightly apply the double sided tape
directly to the brick all the way to the bottom of the arch.

Since you've got that piece of molding protruding outward, ruining
the length of the span under the arch, rest the factory edge of one
of the 15" X 8' pieces of ply on it and apply just enough pressure to
get the tape to stick to the smooth, CLEAN ply.
Carfully remove said ply ,aking sure the tape stays on and voila!

Using the other piece of ply, do the above for the left side as well.

* Hopefully the tape will not adhere to the dirty rough bricks as
strongly as it will to the CLEAN smooth ply but you'd prolly want to
test it first. If it does stick to brick too much, apply blue
painter's tape to the bricks 1st, then the double sided tape.
Hustvlay the darn thing out with a tape measue and a square. From
the lintel, measure up at a right angle to the arch every 2 inches,
then "spline" it in on a full size pattern.

On 10/12/2017 5:59 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door. The 2x12 is
rotted out pretty bad. It will just fall out when poked with a
screwdriver or putty knife, so I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12.Â* (Client wants cheapest option.)

What I need help with is figuring out how to transfer that arch to the
new 2x12. This isn't an arch that was drawn with a radius or trammels.
If this was a perfectly cut arch, I could just determine the radius by
bisecting the chords and extending perpendicular lines to find the radius.

If you look closely, you will see that it's not even and the arch
"flattens out" near both ends. So I believe I'm left with trying to
transfer the exact line of the bottom of the soldier course of bricks to
the new 2x12.

Remember, the existing 2x12 will not come out in one piece or even
several pieces which could be reassembled to use to trace the "arch"
onto the new board. It's pretty much, mulch, held together with paint.

Any ideas?


Scribing a 2x12 to match is the easy part. Cut it with a couple degrees
of back bevel so it slides in easier, and any high spots can be easily
planed off.

Sealing it so it does not rot again will be the real problem.

On Thursday, October 12, 2017 at 2:59:44 PM UTC-7, -MIKE- wrote:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DqXrs5DI2roJTli22

I need to replace the white board above this garage door.
... I'm going to replace with a new, treated
2x12. (Client wants cheapest option.)

That's not a great plan; treated lumber (1) isn't straight, (2) isn't dry, (3)
doesn't take paint well. Could you put a bit of housewrap (or
even tarpaper) over it, as a kind of flashing, with a trim board overtop
that, and paint the trim? Hardieboard isn't expensive, and might come
prepainted.

Heck, even just cutting the treated board in the curve is going to be a tough job,
'cuz it'll be hard to see pencil marks.