I have never used a drawer lock router bit, but I want to use lock joints
on some drawers I'm making for a couple of projects and I need to pick up
an appropriate bit.. But I'm confused by some of the bit specifications.
Shank diameter, at least, is obvious. But what are the implications for
cutting diameter and cutting height? I'm using plain vanilla 3/4" pine
stock. What should I be looking for in a bit?

TIA...

On 9/14/2017 3:52 PM, Alan Holbrook wrote:
I have never used a drawer lock router bit, but I want to use lock joints
on some drawers I'm making for a couple of projects and I need to pick up
an appropriate bit.. But I'm confused by some of the bit specifications.
Shank diameter, at least, is obvious. But what are the implications for
cutting diameter and cutting height? I'm using plain vanilla 3/4" pine
stock. What should I be looking for in a bit?

TIA...


I have been woodworking sing I was about 10. 52 years later, I still
don't own nor have I ever used one of those bits. No need actually.

But if you are determined, this might help.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...rawer-lock-bit

On 9/14/2017 4:52 PM, Alan Holbrook wrote:
I have never used a drawer lock router bit, but I want to use lock joints
on some drawers I'm making for a couple of projects and I need to pick up
an appropriate bit.. But I'm confused by some of the bit specifications.
Shank diameter, at least, is obvious. But what are the implications for
cutting diameter and cutting height? I'm using plain vanilla 3/4" pine
stock. What should I be looking for in a bit?

TIA...


Professional and my woodworking is an oxymoron, but I have made some
nice drawers/boxes using this bit

https://woodworker.com/drawer-lock-b...searchmode= 2

The trick is to have two jigs. One basically a miter gauge for your
router table to cut on side of the joint and the other a "Miter gauge"
so you can cut the other half with the board upright. You have to look
at the bits profile to understand what I mean.

Once I got the initial set up and the jigs it goes quite easy.


--
2017: The year we learn to play the great game of Euchre

On Thursday, September 14, 2017 at 3:52:50 PM UTC-5, Alan Holbrook wrote:
I have never used a drawer lock router bit, but I want to use lock joints
on some drawers I'm making for a couple of projects and I need to pick up
an appropriate bit.. But I'm confused by some of the bit specifications.
Shank diameter, at least, is obvious. But what are the implications for
cutting diameter and cutting height? I'm using plain vanilla 3/4" pine
stock. What should I be looking for in a bit?

TIA...

Why don't you just use your table saw? Is a whole lot easier and cheaper. I got this from a wood working mag years ago and have no idea which or what issue. However, here is the process:

Set your dado stack to 1/4" and raise it to 3/4", with your rip fence 1/4" from the blade. With your OUTSIDE front toward the rip fence, rip your dado.. Lower your blade to 3/8" and again with your INSIDE down cut the mating dados in the side pieces. Lower you blade to 1/4" run your front with the INSIDE down and the blade at 1/4". You now have a lock joint and all you need to do is set the fence once and lower the blade twice.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 9/14/2017 3:52 PM, Alan Holbrook wrote:
I have been woodworking sing I was about 10. 52 years later, I still
don't own nor have I ever used one of those bits. No need actually.

But if you are determined, this might help.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...rawer-lock-bit

Thanks for the reply, but the magazine article doesn't address my question.
How do you choose a cutting diameter? One inch? 1 1/2 inches? Two
inches? What's the difference? How do you choose a cutting height? Half
inch? Three quarter inch? What's the difference?

I'm also always interested in learning from people who've been there. You
say there's no need for a lock bit. How do you make lock joints?

Keith Nuttle wrote in
news
On 9/14/2017 4:52 PM, Alan Holbrook wrote:


Professional and my woodworking is an oxymoron, but I have made some
nice drawers/boxes using this bit

https://woodworker.com/drawer-lock-b...516.asp?search
=router%20bits%20joinery&searchmode=2


Thanks, but again, I'm trying to understand the implications of different
cutting diameters and different cutting heights.

"Dr. Deb" wrote in
:

On Thursday, September 14, 2017 at 3:52:50 PM UTC-5, Alan Holbrook
wrote:
I have never used a drawer lock router bit, but I want to use lock
joints

on some drawers I'm making for a couple of projects and I need to
pick up
Why don't you just use your table saw? Is a whole lot easier and
cheaper. I got this from a wood working mag years ago and have no
idea which or what issue. However, here is the process:


As always, lots of nice articles and videos on line showing this technique.
I'll give that a try. Thanks.

MLCS has a catalog...don't know if it is online....that shows various lock bits and the stock thickness you would be using. Example-#7849 is a lock miter for stock thickness of 1/2 thru 3/4. The chart beside their lock miter bits shows the largest diameter and shank size of the bit. They sell setup blocks as others have recommended...usually made from MDF or maybe HDMW. They also sell a joint maker kit with a glue joint, drawer lock, and lock miter (set up blocks available). There is only one size for the drawer lock and it would be raised or lowered as required by stock thickness. Having said this, I bought a Freud set years ago in a woodworking show useless purchase (one of many) and only used it once to see how to make the joints.

On 9/15/2017 3:06 AM, Alan Holbrook wrote:
Keith Nuttle wrote in
news
On 9/14/2017 4:52 PM, Alan Holbrook wrote:


Professional and my woodworking is an oxymoron, but I have made some
nice drawers/boxes using this bit

https://woodworker.com/drawer-lock-b...516.asp?search
=router%20bits%20joinery&searchmode=2


Thanks, but again, I'm trying to understand the implications of different
cutting diameters and different cutting heights.


I don't understand what you are looking for.

With a bit like this, the diameter is defined by the bits available and
you router. The depth is defined by the bit its self. If the depth is
wrong the interlocking joint will not work. This would be true for this
bit and any other similar bit.

If you are talking about the width of the wood in the joint, there are
many articles on determining these width. As I remember the rule is
about is thirds, the grove of the joint should be about a third of the
width of the piece of wood on one piece and the tongue should be a
corresponding third of the other piece

If you have several different routers the larger shaft is better from a
safety point of view.





--
2017: The year we learn to play the great game of Euchre

On 9/15/2017 2:02 AM, Alan Holbrook wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 9/14/2017 3:52 PM, Alan Holbrook wrote:
I have been woodworking sing I was about 10. 52 years later, I still
don't own nor have I ever used one of those bits. No need actually.

But if you are determined, this might help.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...rawer-lock-bit

Thanks for the reply, but the magazine article doesn't address my question.
How do you choose a cutting diameter? One inch? 1 1/2 inches? Two
inches? What's the difference? How do you choose a cutting height? Half
inch? Three quarter inch? What's the difference?

I'm also always interested in learning from people who've been there. You
say there's no need for a lock bit. How do you make lock joints?


The larger the diameter, the deeper it will cut.
Settings, you will need to experiment for the sweet spot once you buy
the bit.
Also the larger bits will tend to cut more smoothly, more mass, BUT you
will need to slow down the router speed with larger diameter bits.

I use either Dovetail joints,
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

Box joints,
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/


or Rabbet joints reinforced with Domino floating tenons.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...57630857421932

On 9/15/2017 9:31 AM, Leon wrote:



or Rabbet joints reinforced with Domino floating tenons.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...7630857421932/

"Alan Holbrook" wrote in message
. 4.130...
I have never used a drawer lock router bit, but I want to use lock joints
on some drawers I'm making for a couple of projects and I need to pick up
an appropriate bit.. But I'm confused by some of the bit specifications.
Shank diameter, at least, is obvious. But what are the implications for
cutting diameter and cutting height? I'm using plain vanilla 3/4" pine
stock. What should I be looking for in a bit?

You want a bit with a cutting height that will let you cut less than stock
thickness of the front. The bit diameter is immaterial, larger lets you
overlap the side with the front to a greater extent.

I'm with Leon on this though, been fiddling with wood for 74 years and have
yet to use a drawer lock bit, too may simple ways to join them; sliding
dovetails are super easy for overlapping fronts, sides butted into a rabbet
for flush ones (for worriers, pin with dowels).

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news

"Alan Holbrook" wrote in message
. 4.130...
I have never used a drawer lock router bit, but I want to use lock joints
on some drawers I'm making for a couple of projects and I need to pick up
an appropriate bit.. But I'm confused by some of the bit specifications.
Shank diameter, at least, is obvious. But what are the implications for
cutting diameter and cutting height? I'm using plain vanilla 3/4" pine
stock. What should I be looking for in a bit?

You want a bit with a cutting height that will let you cut less than stock
thickness of the front.

The bit diameter is immaterial, larger lets you overlap the side with the
front to a greater extent.

I should have said it is imaterial as long as it will let you cut at least
as deep as the sides are thick.