sounds like the quick release bar clamps and the aluminum bar clamps are the
only ones worth it

the quick release ratcheting clamps with the pistol grip are no good and have
no power

but i have a tiny set of the pistol-grip ratcheting clamps and i find uses for
them for small stuff

i was hand planing and went off the edge and caused a splinter
the splinter did not come free so i put a dab a glue and a small clamp
and it was just right

On Sat, 31 Oct 2015 10:39:32 -0700, Electric Comet
wrote:


sounds like the quick release bar clamps and the aluminum bar clamps are the
only ones worth it

I have a pile of the HF aluminum bar clamps that you can have. They're
junk.

the quick release ratcheting clamps with the pistol grip are no good and have
no power

Agreed. Fortunately I didn't have much invested in them before I
figured it out.

but i have a tiny set of the pistol-grip ratcheting clamps and i find uses for
them for small stuff

i was hand planing and went off the edge and caused a splinter
the splinter did not come free so i put a dab a glue and a small clamp
and it was just right

On 10/31/2015 1:39 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

sounds like the quick release bar clamps and the aluminum bar clamps are the
only ones worth it

The quick release "SAME AS BESSEY" C clamps are ok too.
I have an older set of alum bar clamps. They are nice and thick compared
to Jet and some others. Not sure about the current crop.

the quick release ratcheting clamps with the pistol grip are no good and have
no power

but i have a tiny set of the pistol-grip ratcheting clamps and i find uses for
them for small stuff

i was hand planing and went off the edge and caused a splinter
the splinter did not come free so i put a dab a glue and a small clamp
and it was just right


--
Jeff

On 10/31/2015 12:39 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

sounds like the quick release bar clamps and the aluminum bar clamps are the
only ones worth it

FWIW even high quality aluminum bar clamps are not very useful. They
all bend very easily under light pressure. I have 6 and only use them
as a last resort.



the quick release ratcheting clamps with the pistol grip are no good and have
no power

but i have a tiny set of the pistol-grip ratcheting clamps and i find uses for
them for small stuff

i was hand planing and went off the edge and caused a splinter
the splinter did not come free so i put a dab a glue and a small clamp
and it was just right

You seem to have condemned Jet for using a cheaply made fastening part,
you are not going to like HF products.

On 11/02/2015 8:06 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/31/2015 12:39 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

sounds like the quick release bar clamps and the aluminum bar clamps
are the
only ones worth it

FWIW even high quality aluminum bar clamps are not very useful. They all
bend very easily under light pressure. I have 6 and only use them as a
last resort.
....

Try those from Dubuque Clamp Works...

http://www.thonline.com/news/business/article_4c1b143a-bff2-5dd4-869c-47c8a63cff52.html

There are several resellers; as the above article notes they've
deliberately chosen to not go direct...


https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/CDC/item/MS-ABAR.XX

I've some of unknown manufacturer that are t-bar rails like the best old
cabinet clamps with a very hard/stiff Al (I presume aircraft) alloy.
But afaict there's nobody currently manufacturing such any longer.
These were obtained from the shop of the old codger in Lynchburg of whom
I've spoken previously when he was beginning to slow down and starting
to limit the size and quantity of work he was doing. They're all 48"...

--

On 11/2/2015 8:44 AM, dpb wrote:
On 11/02/2015 8:06 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/31/2015 12:39 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

sounds like the quick release bar clamps and the aluminum bar clamps
are the
only ones worth it

FWIW even high quality aluminum bar clamps are not very useful. They all
bend very easily under light pressure. I have 6 and only use them as a
last resort.
...

Try those from Dubuque Clamp Works...

http://www.thonline.com/news/business/article_4c1b143a-bff2-5dd4-869c-47c8a63cff52.html


There are several resellers; as the above article notes they've
deliberately chosen to not go direct...


https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/CDC/item/MS-ABAR.XX

I've some of unknown manufacturer that are t-bar rails like the best old
cabinet clamps with a very hard/stiff Al (I presume aircraft) alloy. But
afaict there's nobody currently manufacturing such any longer. These
were obtained from the shop of the old codger in Lynchburg of whom I've
spoken previously when he was beginning to slow down and starting to
limit the size and quantity of work he was doing. They're all 48"...

--
Those are exactly the ones I am talking about, and I paid more, ;~(,
that that 25+ years ago.

If you click on the B&W inset photo and enlarge you can make out
Universal Clamp Company on the side of the screw end of the clamp.
Those are mine exactly. They are OK but have small clamping heads and
the bars bend easily. I have the 48 and 72 inch varieties.

On 11/02/2015 9:15 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/2/2015 8:44 AM, dpb wrote:
On 11/02/2015 8:06 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/31/2015 12:39 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

sounds like the quick release bar clamps and the aluminum bar clamps
are the
only ones worth it

FWIW even high quality aluminum bar clamps are not very useful. They all
bend very easily under light pressure. I have 6 and only use them as a
last resort.
...

Try those from Dubuque Clamp Works...

http://www.thonline.com/news/business/article_4c1b143a-bff2-5dd4-869c-47c8a63cff52.html



There are several resellers; as the above article notes they've
deliberately chosen to not go direct...


https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/CDC/item/MS-ABAR.XX

I've some of unknown manufacturer that are t-bar rails like the best old
cabinet clamps with a very hard/stiff Al (I presume aircraft) alloy. But
afaict there's nobody currently manufacturing such any longer. These
were obtained from the shop of the old codger in Lynchburg of whom I've
spoken previously when he was beginning to slow down and starting to
limit the size and quantity of work he was doing. They're all 48"...

--
Those are exactly the ones I am talking about, and I paid more, ;~(,
that that 25+ years ago.

If you click on the B&W inset photo and enlarge you can make out
Universal Clamp Company on the side of the screw end of the clamp. Those
are mine exactly. They are OK but have small clamping heads and the bars
bend easily. I have the 48 and 72 inch varieties.

You must have a _much_ higher res monitor than I to be able to make
anything whatever out of what the casting actually says...

I've not used the Dubuque's simply know they've been rated pretty highly
and that Lee Valley says they're quite stiff and ime that's generally
pretty reliable assessment...

I'm certain they're not as stiff as an old t-bar cabinet clamp and that
if you're trying to squeeze the be-jxxx out of a heavy panel glue they
can be caused to flex but I'd think them likely to be more than adequate
for most work.

Anyway, they're surely bound to be far better than the HF or local Ace
Chinese variety or even the Jorgy's...

--

On 11/2/2015 9:33 AM, dpb wrote:
On 11/02/2015 9:15 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/2/2015 8:44 AM, dpb wrote:
On 11/02/2015 8:06 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/31/2015 12:39 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

sounds like the quick release bar clamps and the aluminum bar clamps
are the
only ones worth it

FWIW even high quality aluminum bar clamps are not very useful. They
all
bend very easily under light pressure. I have 6 and only use them as a
last resort.
...

Try those from Dubuque Clamp Works...

http://www.thonline.com/news/business/article_4c1b143a-bff2-5dd4-869c-47c8a63cff52.html




There are several resellers; as the above article notes they've
deliberately chosen to not go direct...


https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/CDC/item/MS-ABAR.XX

I've some of unknown manufacturer that are t-bar rails like the best old
cabinet clamps with a very hard/stiff Al (I presume aircraft) alloy. But
afaict there's nobody currently manufacturing such any longer. These
were obtained from the shop of the old codger in Lynchburg of whom I've
spoken previously when he was beginning to slow down and starting to
limit the size and quantity of work he was doing. They're all 48"...

--
Those are exactly the ones I am talking about, and I paid more, ;~(,
that that 25+ years ago.

If you click on the B&W inset photo and enlarge you can make out
Universal Clamp Company on the side of the screw end of the clamp. Those
are mine exactly. They are OK but have small clamping heads and the bars
bend easily. I have the 48 and 72 inch varieties.

You must have a _much_ higher res monitor than I to be able to make
anything whatever out of what the casting actually says...

27". And while not perfectly in focus, zoomed in you can see the
individual letters and the L on the end of Universal.



I've not used the Dubuque's simply know they've been rated pretty highly
and that Lee Valley says they're quite stiff and ime that's generally
pretty reliable assessment...

They are not bad clamps for light duty work and probably better in
shorter sizes but you have to clamp them down to the work on longer
pieces so that they do not bow. This is especially true with thin panel
glue ups.

And they are certainly light weight. One thing I especially do not care
for is the ratchet end. I moves in increments of approximately 1/2 the
screw travel. I found myself having to walk from one end to the other a
time or two to get the moveable end in a location that did not reach the
limit of the screw end in either direction. If you are in a hurry to
set the clamps in a complicated glue up this is a bit nerve racking.
;~) Just food for thought. I pretty much quit them altogether when I
started collecting the K-body style clamps.



I'm certain they're not as stiff as an old t-bar cabinet clamp and that
if you're trying to squeeze the be-jxxx out of a heavy panel glue they
can be caused to flex but I'd think them likely to be more than adequate
for most work.

Anyway, they're surely bound to be far better than the HF or local Ace
Chinese variety or even the Jorgy's...
Probably so but you can only expect light to moderate pressure out of
them before they begin to bend.

On 11/2/2015 10:15 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/2/2015 8:44 AM, dpb wrote:
On 11/02/2015 8:06 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/31/2015 12:39 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

sounds like the quick release bar clamps and the aluminum bar clamps
are the
only ones worth it

FWIW even high quality aluminum bar clamps are not very useful. They all
bend very easily under light pressure. I have 6 and only use them as a
last resort.
...

Try those from Dubuque Clamp Works...

http://www.thonline.com/news/business/article_4c1b143a-bff2-5dd4-869c-47c8a63cff52.html



There are several resellers; as the above article notes they've
deliberately chosen to not go direct...


https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/CDC/item/MS-ABAR.XX

I've some of unknown manufacturer that are t-bar rails like the best old
cabinet clamps with a very hard/stiff Al (I presume aircraft) alloy. But
afaict there's nobody currently manufacturing such any longer. These
were obtained from the shop of the old codger in Lynchburg of whom I've
spoken previously when he was beginning to slow down and starting to
limit the size and quantity of work he was doing. They're all 48"...

--
Those are exactly the ones I am talking about, and I paid more, ;~(,
that that 25+ years ago.

If you click on the B&W inset photo and enlarge you can make out
Universal Clamp Company on the side of the screw end of the clamp. Those
are mine exactly. They are OK but have small clamping heads and the
bars bend easily. I have the 48 and 72 inch varieties.
Leon, we have already established you're a gorilla when it comes to
clamping. (broken Cabinet masters).

I clamp tight, but not ridiculously tight.

I do find that I use my aluminum clamps when weight is a problem. Or if
I just want to. I don't find them to be so bad.

--
Jeff

On 10/31/2015 1:39 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

sounds like the quick release bar clamps and the aluminum bar clamps are the
only ones worth it

My only experience with the HF aluminum bar clamps is in the store. They
seemed very flimsy.

Greg Guarino wrote:
On 10/31/2015 1:39 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

sounds like the quick release bar clamps and the aluminum bar clamps
are the only ones worth it

My only experience with the HF aluminum bar clamps is in the store.
They seemed very flimsy.

I haven't bought any or even looked at any in the store in several years,
but the ones I own are as substantial as one could expect from a clamp of
this style. They have never failed me nor shown any signs of weakness or
poor design.

--

-Mike-

On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 12:09:52 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Greg Guarino wrote:
On 10/31/2015 1:39 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

sounds like the quick release bar clamps and the aluminum bar clamps
are the only ones worth it

My only experience with the HF aluminum bar clamps is in the store.
They seemed very flimsy.

I haven't bought any or even looked at any in the store in several years,
but the ones I own are as substantial as one could expect from a clamp of
this style. They have never failed me nor shown any signs of weakness or
poor design.

A good number of the ones I bought about seven or eight years ago
broke. The ends are cast and *very* brittle. It's a PITA to have the
clamp break when the glue is wet (and it always is when the clamp
breaks).

On Tuesday, November 3, 2015 at 1:34:04 PM UTC-5, krw wrote:
On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 12:09:52 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Greg Guarino wrote:
On 10/31/2015 1:39 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

sounds like the quick release bar clamps and the aluminum bar clamps
are the only ones worth it

My only experience with the HF aluminum bar clamps is in the store.
They seemed very flimsy.

I haven't bought any or even looked at any in the store in several years,
but the ones I own are as substantial as one could expect from a clamp of
this style. They have never failed me nor shown any signs of weakness or
poor design.

A good number of the ones I bought about seven or eight years ago
broke. The ends are cast and *very* brittle. It's a PITA to have the
clamp break when the glue is wet (and it always is when the clamp
breaks).

And that surprises you?

Odds are that they won't break while being removed or while hanging on a hook.

On 11/3/2015 12:09 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote:
On 10/31/2015 1:39 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

sounds like the quick release bar clamps and the aluminum bar clamps
are the only ones worth it

My only experience with the HF aluminum bar clamps is in the store.
They seemed very flimsy.

I haven't bought any or even looked at any in the store in several years,
but the ones I own are as substantial as one could expect from a clamp of
this style. They have never failed me nor shown any signs of weakness or
poor design.

People here say that HF's products change from time to time. I haven't
been in there often enough to know. I am however confident that what I
saw there as recently as a couple of months ago was junk. I'm not
particularly a snob about using cheap stuff that works, but these really
didn't look or feel good.

On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 10:51:31 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, November 3, 2015 at 1:34:04 PM UTC-5, krw wrote:
On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 12:09:52 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Greg Guarino wrote:
On 10/31/2015 1:39 PM, Electric Comet wrote:

sounds like the quick release bar clamps and the aluminum bar clamps
are the only ones worth it

My only experience with the HF aluminum bar clamps is in the store.
They seemed very flimsy.

I haven't bought any or even looked at any in the store in several years,
but the ones I own are as substantial as one could expect from a clamp of
this style. They have never failed me nor shown any signs of weakness or
poor design.

A good number of the ones I bought about seven or eight years ago
broke. The ends are cast and *very* brittle. It's a PITA to have the
clamp break when the glue is wet (and it always is when the clamp
breaks).

And that surprises you?

When clamps break? Yes it certainly does.

Odds are that they won't break while being removed or while hanging on a hook.

It doesn't happen when dry-fitting or when you're adding clamps. It
has to be at the worst possible time.

On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 10:06:13 -0500
Greg Guarino wrote:

My only experience with the HF aluminum bar clamps is in the store.
They seemed very flimsy.

i really need to see them in person but maybe i will buy one and see how
it is

one concern i have is getting glue into the track
maybe i should just stick with good old bar clamps
they are hard to beat

Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 10:06:13 -0500
Greg Guarino wrote:

My only experience with the HF aluminum bar clamps is in the store.
They seemed very flimsy.

i really need to see them in person but maybe i will buy one and see
how it is

one concern i have is getting glue into the track
maybe i should just stick with good old bar clamps
they are hard to beat

No need to worry about getting glue on your tracks.

--

-Mike-

On Mon, 2 Nov 2015 08:06:08 -0600
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

FWIW even high quality aluminum bar clamps are not very useful. They
all bend very easily under light pressure. I have 6 and only use
them as a last resort.

i have not used any of the aluminum ones yet
now i am concerned that glue will get into the track

You seem to have condemned Jet for using a cheaply made fastening
part, you are not going to like HF products.

i may just stick with good old fashioned bar clamps
they are almost indesctructible and it is easy to scrape off the glue

On Mon, 02 Nov 2015 08:44:56 -0600
dpb wrote:

Try those from Dubuque Clamp Works...

had never heard of these
i read a review on one of their odd clamps with the novel grip mechanism

the reviewer complained that the face of the clamp left a mark on his
piece

i guess he never heard of scrap
maybe they have the guy at the store cut everything to final fit

On 11/4/2015 9:47 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 10:06:13 -0500
Greg Guarino wrote:

My only experience with the HF aluminum bar clamps is in the store.
They seemed very flimsy.

i really need to see them in person but maybe i will buy one and see how
it is

1, One, Uno clamp????? Can you do anything with ONE clamp? LOL




one concern i have is getting glue into the track
maybe i should just stick with good old bar clamps
they are hard to beat


There is enough slop in the fit that getting a little glue in the
indentations was never a problem for me. AND the glue can be peeled off
of aluminum pretty easily.

Electric Comet writes:
On Mon, 02 Nov 2015 08:44:56 -0600
dpb wrote:

Try those from Dubuque Clamp Works...

had never heard of these
i read a review on one of their odd clamps with the novel grip mechanism

the reviewer complained that the face of the clamp left a mark on his
piece

Or more likely, the reviewer expected them to be similar
to the Bessy K-Body clamps, where it is unnecessary to
protect the work from the clamp face.

Aside from Dubuque being a very pretty place (particularly
arriving from US 61 N), those clamps are quite nice and
affordable. The small clamp face does require clamping
pads to avoid marring the work.

If you consider Iowa to be flat, you've never been to Dubuque.

On 11/4/2015 10:09 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Mon, 02 Nov 2015 08:44:56 -0600
dpb wrote:

Try those from Dubuque Clamp Works...

had never heard of these
i read a review on one of their odd clamps with the novel grip mechanism

the reviewer complained that the face of the clamp left a mark on his
piece

i guess he never heard of scrap
maybe they have the guy at the store cut everything to final fit

To tell you the truth not having to use scrap anything between the wood
and the clamp surface is well worth going for Bessey Kbody or Jorgensen
Cabinet Master clamps. Especially if you are going to be using them
often or in multiples. Be wary of Jet KBody style clamps however, they
too will leave dents.

On 11/4/2015 10:31 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Electric Comet writes:
On Mon, 02 Nov 2015 08:44:56 -0600
dpb wrote:

Try those from Dubuque Clamp Works...

had never heard of these
i read a review on one of their odd clamps with the novel grip mechanism

the reviewer complained that the face of the clamp left a mark on his
piece

Or more likely, the reviewer expected them to be similar
to the Bessy K-Body clamps, where it is unnecessary to
protect the work from the clamp face.

TRUE! Same style Jet clamp, Not so true. If Jet would fix this their
clamps would be great with more features than Bessey and the Cabinet
Masters combined.



Aside from Dubuque being a very pretty place (particularly
arriving from US 61 N), those clamps are quite nice and
affordable. The small clamp face does require clamping
pads to avoid marring the work.

I used the exact same aluminum clamps for years and oddly I don't ever
recall the clamps faces marring the work and I did not use scraps. In
fact the only clamps that I have used that do mar the wood are the Jet
clones and the old style pipe clamps.



If you consider Iowa to be flat, you've never been to Dubuque.

On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 11:39:17 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/4/2015 10:31 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Electric Comet writes:
On Mon, 02 Nov 2015 08:44:56 -0600
dpb wrote:

Try those from Dubuque Clamp Works...

had never heard of these
i read a review on one of their odd clamps with the novel grip mechanism

the reviewer complained that the face of the clamp left a mark on his
piece

Or more likely, the reviewer expected them to be similar
to the Bessy K-Body clamps, where it is unnecessary to
protect the work from the clamp face.

TRUE! Same style Jet clamp, Not so true. If Jet would fix this their
clamps would be great with more features than Bessey and the Cabinet
Masters combined.



Having not used any of the 3 aforementioned clamps, this question comes
from a deep, deep state of ignorance...

How hard would it be to fashion a "false front" for the Jet clamps to
eliminate the marring?

I'm thinking about some clamps pads that I have that fall off if they are
not held on when clamping (almost the same as using scraps) vs. some clamps
that have fitted pads semi-permanently attached. (Look Ma, no hands!)

Couldn't something be done with the Jet clamps to turn them into the
superior clamps that you want them to be?

On 11/4/2015 2:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 11:39:17 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/4/2015 10:31 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Electric Comet writes:
On Mon, 02 Nov 2015 08:44:56 -0600
dpb wrote:

Try those from Dubuque Clamp Works...

had never heard of these
i read a review on one of their odd clamps with the novel grip mechanism

the reviewer complained that the face of the clamp left a mark on his
piece

Or more likely, the reviewer expected them to be similar
to the Bessy K-Body clamps, where it is unnecessary to
protect the work from the clamp face.

TRUE! Same style Jet clamp, Not so true. If Jet would fix this their
clamps would be great with more features than Bessey and the Cabinet
Masters combined.



Having not used any of the 3 aforementioned clamps, this question comes
from a deep, deep state of ignorance...

How hard would it be to fashion a "false front" for the Jet clamps to
eliminate the marring?

Probably not too hard but certainly harder than simply buying the same
priced Jorgensen Cabinet Master clamps. The only advantage that the Jet
has IHMO in this comparison is that it has a release trigger that holds
the moveable end in place. And that is not that is not that big of a
deal. If the Jet's came with the non mar surface they would get the nod.




I'm thinking about some clamps pads that I have that fall off if they are
not held on when clamping (almost the same as using scraps) vs. some clamps
that have fitted pads semi-permanently attached. (Look Ma, no hands!)

Double stick carpet tape.


Couldn't something be done with the Jet clamps to turn them into the
superior clamps that you want them to be?

On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 4:45:48 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
..
I'm thinking about some clamps pads that I have that fall off if they are
not held on when clamping (almost the same as using scraps) vs. some clamps
that have fitted pads semi-permanently attached. (Look Ma, no hands!)

Double stick carpet tape.

Before we had all the nice clamp options that we enjoy now, first by necessity and second by need, we used to drill tiny holes in the metal faces of our Pony clamps, bar clamps, etc, and screw pieces of white pine on them (from the back)to make softer, wider jaws. Worked like a champ, and got the additional clamping power of making a jaw as wide as you wanted. Since we used a lot of 1x2 cedar when I was framing houses (think shingle molding and vent trims) we simply cut off six inch pieces as needed and screwed them on the faces when we were doing cabinet work. They did great as they spread the compressed load across a surface more evenly, and even added to the utility of the clamp by its increased jaw size.

With today's plastic jaws with larger faces, I am sure double stick tape would do the trick.

Robert

On 11/5/2015 2:04 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 4:45:48 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
.
I'm thinking about some clamps pads that I have that fall off if they are
not held on when clamping (almost the same as using scraps) vs. some clamps
that have fitted pads semi-permanently attached. (Look Ma, no hands!)

Double stick carpet tape.

Before we had all the nice clamp options that we enjoy now, first by necessity and second by need, we used to drill tiny holes in the metal faces of our Pony clamps, bar clamps, etc, and screw pieces of white pine on them (from the back)to make softer, wider jaws. Worked like a champ, and got the additional clamping power of making a jaw as wide as you wanted. Since we used a lot of 1x2 cedar when I was framing houses (think shingle molding and vent trims) we simply cut off six inch pieces as needed and screwed them on the faces when we were doing cabinet work. They did great as they spread the compressed load across a surface more evenly, and even added to the utility of the clamp by its increased jaw size.

With today's plastic jaws with larger faces, I am sure double stick tape would do the trick.

Robert

Maybe even a wooden pad with rare earth magnets embedded in the back
side. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I'll have to see of a magnet will stick to
the Jet clamp surface.

On 11/05/2015 7:41 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 2:04 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 4:45:48 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
.
I'm thinking about some clamps pads that I have that fall off if
they are
not held on when clamping (almost the same as using scraps) vs. some
clamps
that have fitted pads semi-permanently attached. (Look Ma, no hands!)

Double stick carpet tape.

Before we had all the nice clamp options that we enjoy now, first by
necessity and second by need, we used to drill tiny holes in the metal
faces of our Pony clamps, bar clamps, etc, and screw pieces of white
pine on them (from the back)to make softer, wider jaws. Worked like a
champ, and got the additional clamping power of making a jaw as wide
as you wanted. Since we used a lot of 1x2 cedar when I was framing
houses (think shingle molding and vent trims) we simply cut off six
inch pieces as needed and screwed them on the faces when we were doing
cabinet work. They did great as they spread the compressed load across
a surface more evenly, and even added to the utility of the clamp by
its increased jaw size.

With today's plastic jaws with larger faces, I am sure double stick
tape would do the trick.

Robert

Maybe even a wooden pad with rare earth magnets embedded in the back
side. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I'll have to see of a magnet will stick to the
Jet clamp surface.

I just got accustomed to using a full-length caul resting on the clamp
bodies so never worried about the individual pads...it's still so
ingrown a practice I don't even think of pads...guess everybody grows up
different.

--

On 11/5/2015 7:41 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 2:04 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 4:45:48 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
.
I'm thinking about some clamps pads that I have that fall off if
they are
not held on when clamping (almost the same as using scraps) vs. some
clamps
that have fitted pads semi-permanently attached. (Look Ma, no hands!)

Double stick carpet tape.

Before we had all the nice clamp options that we enjoy now, first by
necessity and second by need, we used to drill tiny holes in the metal
faces of our Pony clamps, bar clamps, etc, and screw pieces of white
pine on them (from the back)to make softer, wider jaws. Worked like a
champ, and got the additional clamping power of making a jaw as wide
as you wanted. Since we used a lot of 1x2 cedar when I was framing
houses (think shingle molding and vent trims) we simply cut off six
inch pieces as needed and screwed them on the faces when we were doing
cabinet work. They did great as they spread the compressed load
across a surface more evenly, and even added to the utility of the
clamp by its increased jaw size.

With today's plastic jaws with larger faces, I am sure double stick
tape would do the trick.

Robert

Maybe even a wooden pad with rare earth magnets embedded in the back
side. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I'll have to see of a magnet will stick to
the Jet clamp surface.


OK!
The rare earth magnets do stick to the faces of the Jet K-body style
clamps rather well. I'll put that in line to be done.

Thanks for the suggestion Derby!

I still think that would be a deal killer for future Jet clamps but a
solution for the pair that I do have.

On 11/5/2015 7:41 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 2:04 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 4:45:48 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
.

[snip]

With today's plastic jaws with larger faces, I am sure double stick
tape would do the trick.

Robert

Maybe even a wooden pad with rare earth magnets embedded in the back
side. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I'll have to see of a magnet will stick to
the Jet clamp surface.

If you can find some of that magnetic rubber tape or the magnetic
business card stock (think refrigerator magnets, sort of)

Back in the day I made up some 2" squares of ¼" ply, glued a 3/4" piece
of that stock to the back and it worked fine. All you really need is
"that extra hand" to hold the wood pad in place until you can tighten
down the clamp. Wasn't ideal but it worked when I needed it.

On Thursday, November 5, 2015 at 9:29:26 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 7:41 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 2:04 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 4:45:48 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
.
I'm thinking about some clamps pads that I have that fall off if
they are
not held on when clamping (almost the same as using scraps) vs. some
clamps
that have fitted pads semi-permanently attached. (Look Ma, no hands!)

Double stick carpet tape.

Before we had all the nice clamp options that we enjoy now, first by
necessity and second by need, we used to drill tiny holes in the metal
faces of our Pony clamps, bar clamps, etc, and screw pieces of white
pine on them (from the back)to make softer, wider jaws. Worked like a
champ, and got the additional clamping power of making a jaw as wide
as you wanted. Since we used a lot of 1x2 cedar when I was framing
houses (think shingle molding and vent trims) we simply cut off six
inch pieces as needed and screwed them on the faces when we were doing
cabinet work. They did great as they spread the compressed load
across a surface more evenly, and even added to the utility of the
clamp by its increased jaw size.

With today's plastic jaws with larger faces, I am sure double stick
tape would do the trick.

Robert

Maybe even a wooden pad with rare earth magnets embedded in the back
side. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I'll have to see of a magnet will stick to
the Jet clamp surface.


OK!
The rare earth magnets do stick to the faces of the Jet K-body style
clamps rather well. I'll put that in line to be done.

Thanks for the suggestion Derby!

It's nice to be able to give back. ;-)

Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 2:04 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 4:45:48 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
.
I'm thinking about some clamps pads that I have that fall off if
they are not held on when clamping (almost the same as using
scraps) vs. some clamps that have fitted pads semi-permanently
attached. (Look Ma, no hands!)

Double stick carpet tape.

Before we had all the nice clamp options that we enjoy now, first by
necessity and second by need, we used to drill tiny holes in the
metal faces of our Pony clamps, bar clamps, etc, and screw pieces of
white pine on them (from the back)to make softer, wider jaws. Worked like
a champ, and got the additional clamping power of making
a jaw as wide as you wanted. Since we used a lot of 1x2 cedar when I
was framing houses (think shingle molding and vent trims) we simply
cut off six inch pieces as needed and screwed them on the faces when
we were doing cabinet work. They did great as they spread the
compressed load across a surface more evenly, and even added to the
utility of the clamp by its increased jaw size. With today's
plastic jaws with larger faces, I am sure double stick
tape would do the trick. Robert

Maybe even a wooden pad with rare earth magnets embedded in the back
side. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I'll have to see of a magnet will stick to
the Jet clamp surface.

Not a doubt in my mind this would work, but then again my simplistic mind
goes to wondering why bother going to such an extent? Culls, two sided tape
(as mentioned earlier), etc. seem to make such a much easier, and stratight
forward approach. Sometimes this groujp can go so damned far to find a
solution to a simple problem.

--

-Mike-

On 11/5/2015 8:04 AM, dpb wrote:
On 11/05/2015 7:41 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 2:04 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 4:45:48 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
.
I'm thinking about some clamps pads that I have that fall off if
they are
not held on when clamping (almost the same as using scraps) vs. some
clamps
that have fitted pads semi-permanently attached. (Look Ma, no hands!)

Double stick carpet tape.

Before we had all the nice clamp options that we enjoy now, first by
necessity and second by need, we used to drill tiny holes in the metal
faces of our Pony clamps, bar clamps, etc, and screw pieces of white
pine on them (from the back)to make softer, wider jaws. Worked like a
champ, and got the additional clamping power of making a jaw as wide
as you wanted. Since we used a lot of 1x2 cedar when I was framing
houses (think shingle molding and vent trims) we simply cut off six
inch pieces as needed and screwed them on the faces when we were doing
cabinet work. They did great as they spread the compressed load across
a surface more evenly, and even added to the utility of the clamp by
its increased jaw size.

With today's plastic jaws with larger faces, I am sure double stick
tape would do the trick.

Robert

Maybe even a wooden pad with rare earth magnets embedded in the back
side. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I'll have to see of a magnet will stick to the
Jet clamp surface.

I just got accustomed to using a full-length caul resting on the clamp
bodies so never worried about the individual pads...it's still so
ingrown a practice I don't even think of pads...guess everybody grows up
different.

--
Yeah! I don't want to have anything other than the clamp and the
project. BUT I do use a couple of pieces of plywood for helping to
insure that rails fit properly at the ends of stiles on cabinet doors.
And that uses 8 clamps initially and then just 2 once everything is
squared up.

On 11/5/2015 10:54 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 5, 2015 at 9:29:26 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 7:41 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 2:04 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 4:45:48 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
.
I'm thinking about some clamps pads that I have that fall off if
they are
not held on when clamping (almost the same as using scraps) vs. some
clamps
that have fitted pads semi-permanently attached. (Look Ma, no hands!)

Double stick carpet tape.

Before we had all the nice clamp options that we enjoy now, first by
necessity and second by need, we used to drill tiny holes in the metal
faces of our Pony clamps, bar clamps, etc, and screw pieces of white
pine on them (from the back)to make softer, wider jaws. Worked like a
champ, and got the additional clamping power of making a jaw as wide
as you wanted. Since we used a lot of 1x2 cedar when I was framing
houses (think shingle molding and vent trims) we simply cut off six
inch pieces as needed and screwed them on the faces when we were doing
cabinet work. They did great as they spread the compressed load
across a surface more evenly, and even added to the utility of the
clamp by its increased jaw size.

With today's plastic jaws with larger faces, I am sure double stick
tape would do the trick.

Robert

Maybe even a wooden pad with rare earth magnets embedded in the back
side. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I'll have to see of a magnet will stick to
the Jet clamp surface.


OK!
The rare earth magnets do stick to the faces of the Jet K-body style
clamps rather well. I'll put that in line to be done.

Thanks for the suggestion Derby!

It's nice to be able to give back. ;-)

Old dogs can learn new tricks. ;~) I have know about doing what you
suggested but never put 2+2 2gether. ;~)

On 11/5/2015 9:20 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 11/5/2015 7:41 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 2:04 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 4:45:48 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
.

[snip]

With today's plastic jaws with larger faces, I am sure double stick
tape would do the trick.

Robert

Maybe even a wooden pad with rare earth magnets embedded in the back
side. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I'll have to see of a magnet will stick to
the Jet clamp surface.

If you can find some of that magnetic rubber tape or the magnetic
business card stock (think refrigerator magnets, sort of)

Back in the day I made up some 2" squares of ¼" ply, glued a 3/4" piece
of that stock to the back and it worked fine. All you really need is
"that extra hand" to hold the wood pad in place until you can tighten
down the clamp. Wasn't ideal but it worked when I needed it.




I wonder if that would be strong enough to go through the plastic on the
clamp and hold the wood pad.

On 11/5/2015 11:25 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 2:04 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 4:45:48 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
.
I'm thinking about some clamps pads that I have that fall off if
they are not held on when clamping (almost the same as using
scraps) vs. some clamps that have fitted pads semi-permanently
attached. (Look Ma, no hands!)

Double stick carpet tape.

Before we had all the nice clamp options that we enjoy now, first by
necessity and second by need, we used to drill tiny holes in the
metal faces of our Pony clamps, bar clamps, etc, and screw pieces of
white pine on them (from the back)to make softer, wider jaws. Worked like
a champ, and got the additional clamping power of making
a jaw as wide as you wanted. Since we used a lot of 1x2 cedar when I
was framing houses (think shingle molding and vent trims) we simply
cut off six inch pieces as needed and screwed them on the faces when
we were doing cabinet work. They did great as they spread the
compressed load across a surface more evenly, and even added to the
utility of the clamp by its increased jaw size. With today's
plastic jaws with larger faces, I am sure double stick
tape would do the trick. Robert

Maybe even a wooden pad with rare earth magnets embedded in the back
side. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I'll have to see of a magnet will stick to
the Jet clamp surface.

Not a doubt in my mind this would work, but then again my simplistic mind
goes to wondering why bother going to such an extent? Culls, two sided tape
(as mentioned earlier), etc. seem to make such a much easier, and stratight
forward approach. Sometimes this groujp can go so damned far to find a
solution to a simple problem.

Yeah! The simplest solution I have been using so far is using that Jet
pair of clamps LAST. LOL The tape would would be the easiest and a
starting point, magnets later if the tape became a hassle and not holding.

On 11/5/2015 12:28 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 9:20 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 11/5/2015 7:41 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 2:04 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 4:45:48 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
.

[snip]

With today's plastic jaws with larger faces, I am sure double stick
tape would do the trick.

Robert

Maybe even a wooden pad with rare earth magnets embedded in the back
side. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I'll have to see of a magnet will stick to
the Jet clamp surface.

If you can find some of that magnetic rubber tape or the magnetic
business card stock (think refrigerator magnets, sort of)

Back in the day I made up some 2" squares of ¼" ply, glued a 3/4" piece
of that stock to the back and it worked fine. All you really need is
"that extra hand" to hold the wood pad in place until you can tighten
down the clamp. Wasn't ideal but it worked when I needed it.




I wonder if that would be strong enough to go through the plastic on the
clamp and hold the wood pad.

I seriously doubt it. Not enough drawing power. As I said it wasn't
ideal but it worked for me. Think: just enough to hold the square of
plywood in place while tightening the clamp. It was very easy to knock
loose but for my purposes it was entirely adequate.

If I understand where you're going with my tip, I would think that a
rare earth magnet, properly inlet/recessed to the pad and held by a
touch of silicone would probably do the trick, "penetrating" the plastic
and attracting to the metal behind it.

Those rare earth magnets are kinda neat. They have a helluva lot of
pulling power for their small size. Seen some innovative gun mounts
made of them after being coated with rubber. A couple strategically
placed have no problem holding a 21oz to 35oz pistol horizontally or
vertically to a metal surface.

On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 08:29:17 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 11/5/2015 7:41 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 2:04 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 4:45:48 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
.
I'm thinking about some clamps pads that I have that fall off if
they are
not held on when clamping (almost the same as using scraps) vs. some
clamps
that have fitted pads semi-permanently attached. (Look Ma, no hands!)

Double stick carpet tape.

Before we had all the nice clamp options that we enjoy now, first by
necessity and second by need, we used to drill tiny holes in the metal
faces of our Pony clamps, bar clamps, etc, and screw pieces of white
pine on them (from the back)to make softer, wider jaws. Worked like a
champ, and got the additional clamping power of making a jaw as wide
as you wanted. Since we used a lot of 1x2 cedar when I was framing
houses (think shingle molding and vent trims) we simply cut off six
inch pieces as needed and screwed them on the faces when we were doing
cabinet work. They did great as they spread the compressed load
across a surface more evenly, and even added to the utility of the
clamp by its increased jaw size.

With today's plastic jaws with larger faces, I am sure double stick
tape would do the trick.

Robert

Maybe even a wooden pad with rare earth magnets embedded in the back
side. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I'll have to see of a magnet will stick to
the Jet clamp surface.


OK!
The rare earth magnets do stick to the faces of the Jet K-body style
clamps rather well. I'll put that in line to be done.

Thanks for the suggestion Derby!

I still think that would be a deal killer for future Jet clamps but a
solution for the pair that I do have.

Sounds like another business for you. ;-)

On 11/5/2015 7:28 PM, krw wrote:
On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 08:29:17 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 11/5/2015 7:41 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 2:04 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 4:45:48 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
.
I'm thinking about some clamps pads that I have that fall off if
they are
not held on when clamping (almost the same as using scraps) vs. some
clamps
that have fitted pads semi-permanently attached. (Look Ma, no hands!)

Double stick carpet tape.

Before we had all the nice clamp options that we enjoy now, first by
necessity and second by need, we used to drill tiny holes in the metal
faces of our Pony clamps, bar clamps, etc, and screw pieces of white
pine on them (from the back)to make softer, wider jaws. Worked like a
champ, and got the additional clamping power of making a jaw as wide
as you wanted. Since we used a lot of 1x2 cedar when I was framing
houses (think shingle molding and vent trims) we simply cut off six
inch pieces as needed and screwed them on the faces when we were doing
cabinet work. They did great as they spread the compressed load
across a surface more evenly, and even added to the utility of the
clamp by its increased jaw size.

With today's plastic jaws with larger faces, I am sure double stick
tape would do the trick.

Robert

Maybe even a wooden pad with rare earth magnets embedded in the back
side. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I'll have to see of a magnet will stick to
the Jet clamp surface.


OK!
The rare earth magnets do stick to the faces of the Jet K-body style
clamps rather well. I'll put that in line to be done.

Thanks for the suggestion Derby!

I still think that would be a deal killer for future Jet clamps but a
solution for the pair that I do have.

Sounds like another business for you. ;-)

Maybe soooo. LOL Oddly most every one that I talk to, that also have
Jets, have not noticed the problem. Then again I do test the load
ratings of my clamps.

On 11/5/2015 1:22 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 11/5/2015 12:28 PM, Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 9:20 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 11/5/2015 7:41 AM, Leon wrote:
On 11/5/2015 2:04 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, November 4, 2015 at 4:45:48 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
.

[snip]

With today's plastic jaws with larger faces, I am sure double stick
tape would do the trick.

Robert

Maybe even a wooden pad with rare earth magnets embedded in the back
side. Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I'll have to see of a magnet will stick to
the Jet clamp surface.

If you can find some of that magnetic rubber tape or the magnetic
business card stock (think refrigerator magnets, sort of)

Back in the day I made up some 2" squares of ¼" ply, glued a 3/4" piece
of that stock to the back and it worked fine. All you really need is
"that extra hand" to hold the wood pad in place until you can tighten
down the clamp. Wasn't ideal but it worked when I needed it.




I wonder if that would be strong enough to go through the plastic on the
clamp and hold the wood pad.

I seriously doubt it. Not enough drawing power. As I said it wasn't
ideal but it worked for me. Think: just enough to hold the square of
plywood in place while tightening the clamp. It was very easy to knock
loose but for my purposes it was entirely adequate.

If I understand where you're going with my tip, I would think that a
rare earth magnet, properly inlet/recessed to the pad and held by a
touch of silicone would probably do the trick, "penetrating" the plastic
and attracting to the metal behind it.

That would be the plan.


Those rare earth magnets are kinda neat. They have a helluva lot of
pulling power for their small size. Seen some innovative gun mounts
made of them after being coated with rubber. A couple strategically
placed have no problem holding a 21oz to 35oz pistol horizontally or
vertically to a metal surface.

My first introduction to those magnets were when I was still in the
automotive business, 20 plus years ago. I was working for an AC/Delco
wholesale distributor. There was a particular part that came in a small
box about 1.5 x1.5 x1.5 inches. You could not pick the small box up off
of the steel bin with out the box opening and coming apart. You had to
slide the box to the edge of the shelf to overcome the pull of the
magnet. The part was a small wiper motor part. IIRC it had 4, 3/8"
long by 2mm diameter magnets evenly spaced around a round piece. The
magnets looked like wooden pencil leads. There could have been a dozen
of those parts in the tiny box.