I wanted to find a good oil, cheap that can be used on bowls and other
food things. I saw walnut oil in a video. Have you tried coconut oil?
The things that are important are a stable oil that doesn't go rancid.
Doesn't smell bad, neutral's ok.

Have you tried cooking oils? Canola, grape seed, sunflower seed, etc.
It's okay if the oil has to be re-applied now and again.

Mineral oil's readily available and I see people using that but it
can get slightly gummy/sticky.

If you've tried an oil and like it that would be good to know about.

"Electric Comet" wrote in message

I wanted to find a good oil, cheap that can be used on bowls and other
food things. I saw walnut oil in a video. Have you tried coconut oil?
The things that are important are a stable oil that doesn't go rancid.
Doesn't smell bad, neutral's ok.

Have you tried cooking oils? Canola, grape seed, sunflower seed, etc.
It's okay if the oil has to be re-applied now and again.

Mineral oil's readily available and I see people using that but it
can get slightly gummy/sticky.

If you've tried an oil and like it that would be good to know about.

IIRC, coconut oil doesn't dry so I would skip it (ditto mineral oil).

I would think that any oil that dries and which is derived from something
edible would be fine. Personally, I use tung oil or boiled linseed oil,
both are easy to find. Yes, the BLO has dryers in it but once cured it is
fine.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"dadiOH" wrote in :

"Electric Comet" wrote in message

I wanted to find a good oil, cheap that can be used on bowls and
other food things. I saw walnut oil in a video. Have you tried
coconut oil? The things that are important are a stable oil that
doesn't go rancid. Doesn't smell bad, neutral's ok.

Have you tried cooking oils? Canola, grape seed, sunflower seed, etc.
It's okay if the oil has to be re-applied now and again.

Mineral oil's readily available and I see people using that but it
can get slightly gummy/sticky.

If you've tried an oil and like it that would be good to know about.

IIRC, coconut oil doesn't dry so I would skip it (ditto mineral oil).

I would think that any oil that dries and which is derived from
something edible would be fine. Personally, I use tung oil or boiled
linseed oil, both are easy to find. Yes, the BLO has dryers in it but
once cured it is fine.



*ALL* vegetable oils can go rancid. In fact the drying process involves
partial oxidisation, as does Oxidative rancidity.
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rancidification

Your only hope of avoiding a taint if left in contact with food
containing lipids is to use an inert mineral oil or wax, or to use a
coating that when fully cured is oil and solvent resistant.

I have a knife here that has an oak handle that was hot impregnated with
pure paraffin wax (by repeatedly melting the wax into the surface with a
hot air gun) when I made it some 20 years ago. It gets washed up
normally nearly every day, with the only care being to hand dry it after
use as it has a carbon steel blade. The handle will still take a good
sheen if buffed with a paper towel and there has been absolulely no
deterioration.

--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL

On 12/14/2014 1:18 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
I wanted to find a good oil, cheap that can be used on bowls and other
food things. I saw walnut oil in a video. Have you tried coconut oil?
The things that are important are a stable oil that doesn't go rancid.
Doesn't smell bad, neutral's ok.

Have you tried cooking oils? Canola, grape seed, sunflower seed, etc.
It's okay if the oil has to be re-applied now and again.

Many cooking oils will go rancid.

Mineral oil's readily available and I see people using that but it
can get slightly gummy/sticky.

Mineral oil shouldn't get gummy if you give it time to cure.

If you've tried an oil and like it that would be good to know about.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-t...-finishes.aspx
http://www.woodmagazine.com/material...ish-food-safe/
http://www.robin-wood.co.uk/wood-cra...treating-wood/
http://westbaywoodturners.com/tutori..._finishes.html

Linseed oil keeps popping up on all the sites for "food safe wood
finishing."

On Sun, 14 Dec 2014 12:18:40 -0800, Electric Comet
wrote:

I wanted to find a good oil, cheap that can be used on bowls and other
food things. I saw walnut oil in a video. Have you tried coconut oil?
The things that are important are a stable oil that doesn't go rancid.
Doesn't smell bad, neutral's ok.

Have you tried cooking oils? Canola, grape seed, sunflower seed, etc.
It's okay if the oil has to be re-applied now and again.

Mineral oil's readily available and I see people using that but it
can get slightly gummy/sticky.

If you've tried an oil and like it that would be good to know about.



Mineral oil is my choice. If it is getting gummy, too much is being
applied. I've used in many times and never had a problem. Put on a
few applications over time, not one big glop.

Cooking oil can go rancid.

On Sun, 14 Dec 2014 12:18:40 -0800, Electric Comet wrote:

I wanted to find a good oil, cheap that can be used on bowls and other
food things.

There's always these:

http://triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products.html

or forget the oil and use shellac - you eat it all the time.

Just Wondering wrote in news:548eaff4$0$11527$882e7ee2@usenet-
news.net:

Mineral oil shouldn't get gummy if you give it time to cure.

Mineral oil doesn't cure.

On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 05:55:09 -0500
Ed Pawlowski wrote:


Mineral oil is my choice. If it is getting gummy, too much is being
applied. I've used in many times and never had a problem. Put on a
few applications over time, not one big glop.

Maybe that's the problem I encountered. Will have to try a lighter
coat.


Cooking oil can go rancid.

I thought I heard that coconut oil wouldn't go rancid but will
have to do more research.

On Sun, 14 Dec 2014 16:20:58 -0500
"dadiOH" wrote:


IIRC, coconut oil doesn't dry so I would skip it (ditto mineral oil).

I am going to try on a test piece and leave it to see what happens.


I would think that any oil that dries and which is derived from
something edible would be fine. Personally, I use tung oil or boiled
linseed oil, both are easy to find. Yes, the BLO has dryers in it
but once cured it is fine.

Yeah, I've got those. There are a limited number of oils that
"dry", I found out walnut oil is one too.

On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 14:13:23 -0800, Electric Comet

Here, you can try any of these.

http://www.arbutusarts.com/food-safe-wood-finish.html

On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 09:32:31 +0000 (UTC)
Ian Malcolm wrote:


Your only hope of avoiding a taint if left in contact with food
containing lipids is to use an inert mineral oil or wax, or to use a
coating that when fully cured is oil and solvent resistant.

Yeah I may just go with beeswax. It's easy to communicate that to
a customer too. Unless they don't know what is a bee.

On 12/15/14, 4:39 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 09:32:31 +0000 (UTC) Ian Malcolm
wrote:


Your only hope of avoiding a taint if left in contact with food
containing lipids is to use an inert mineral oil or wax, or to use
a coating that when fully cured is oil and solvent resistant.

Yeah I may just go with beeswax. It's easy to communicate that to a
customer too. Unless they don't know what is a bee.


Carnuba wax is great if you have a buffing wheel to apply it.
I'm not talking about Carnuba with an asterisk that comes in a paste for
waxing cars. I'm talking about the solid blocks of 100% wax straight
from the palm leaves.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 15/12/2014 4:24 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 12/15/14, 4:39 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 09:32:31 +0000 (UTC) Ian Malcolm
wrote:


Your only hope of avoiding a taint if left in contact with food
containing lipids is to use an inert mineral oil or wax, or to use
a coating that when fully cured is oil and solvent resistant.

Yeah I may just go with beeswax. It's easy to communicate that to a
customer too. Unless they don't know what is a bee.


Carnuba wax is great if you have a buffing wheel to apply it.
I'm not talking about Carnuba with an asterisk that comes in a paste for
waxing cars. I'm talking about the solid blocks of 100% wax straight
from the palm leaves.


The trouble with that is water will leave the surface spotty. It's
impracticable as a salad bowl finish.
Graham

In article , Electric Comet
wrote:

I wanted to find a good oil, cheap that can be used on bowls and other
food things. I saw walnut oil in a video. Have you tried coconut oil?
The things that are important are a stable oil that doesn't go rancid.
Doesn't smell bad, neutral's ok.

Have you tried cooking oils? Canola, grape seed, sunflower seed, etc.
It's okay if the oil has to be re-applied now and again.

Mineral oil's readily available and I see people using that but it
can get slightly gummy/sticky.

If you've tried an oil and like it that would be good to know about.

One cup of mineral oil and 3 oz by weight of beeswax. Heat until the
beeswax melts. Safest way is a 250 oven for 30 minutes.

Walnut oil is good because it polymerizes. Be aware of nut allergies.

Mineral oil by itself is ok, and it does NOT go sticky in my experience.

Apply thin coats, always.

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

On Fri, 19 Dec 2014 21:03:43 -0600
Dave Balderstone wrote:

In article , Electric Comet
wrote:

I wanted to find a good oil, cheap that can be used on bowls and
other food things. I saw walnut oil in a video. Have you tried
coconut oil? The things that are important are a stable oil that
doesn't go rancid. Doesn't smell bad, neutral's ok.

Have you tried cooking oils? Canola, grape seed, sunflower seed,
etc. It's okay if the oil has to be re-applied now and again.

Mineral oil's readily available and I see people using that but it
can get slightly gummy/sticky.

If you've tried an oil and like it that would be good to know about.

One cup of mineral oil and 3 oz by weight of beeswax. Heat until the
beeswax melts. Safest way is a 250 oven for 30 minutes.

Which form does it take after this? Is it like a paste or hard like
a wax or liquid?


Walnut oil is good because it polymerizes.

Yes, as do a few others I've found out.


Mineral oil by itself is ok, and it does NOT go sticky in my
experience.

It has done so on metal surfaces.

On 12/20/2014 12:34 PM, Electric Comet wrote:


Mineral oil by itself is ok, and it does NOT go sticky in my
experience.

It has done so on metal surfaces.



It has no place to go on metal. Wood absorbs it and becomes sealed in
the process.

On 19/12/2014 8:03 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In article , Electric Comet
wrote:

I wanted to find a good oil, cheap that can be used on bowls and other
food things. I saw walnut oil in a video. Have you tried coconut oil?
The things that are important are a stable oil that doesn't go rancid.
Doesn't smell bad, neutral's ok.

Have you tried cooking oils? Canola, grape seed, sunflower seed, etc.
It's okay if the oil has to be re-applied now and again.

Mineral oil's readily available and I see people using that but it
can get slightly gummy/sticky.

If you've tried an oil and like it that would be good to know about.

One cup of mineral oil and 3 oz by weight of beeswax. Heat until the
beeswax melts. Safest way is a 250 oven for 30 minutes.

Which is pretty much like the products from Clapham:
http://www.claphams.com/
Graham

On Monday, December 15, 2014 1:55:03 AM UTC-8, Just Wondering wrote:
On 12/14/2014 1:18 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
I wanted to find a good oil, cheap that can be used on bowls and other
food things.

Linseed oil keeps popping up on all the sites for "food safe wood
finishing."

Note, however, that 'boiled linseed oil' is NOT considered food safe; the
'boiled' variant has additives. Find USP (pharmacology grade, in the US)
linseed oil if you want a food-safe product.

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 12:29:54 -0800 (PST)
whit3rd wrote:

Note, however, that 'boiled linseed oil' is NOT considered food safe;
the 'boiled' variant has additives. Find USP (pharmacology grade,
in the US) linseed oil if you want a food-safe product.

I noticed that yesterday at the paint store. They had plain linseed
oil. It wasn't cheap. They also had linseed oil soap but it didn't
list the ingredients. They had butcher-block oil but it was expensive.

In article ,
whit3rd wrote:

On Monday, December 15, 2014 1:55:03 AM UTC-8, Just Wondering wrote:
On 12/14/2014 1:18 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
I wanted to find a good oil, cheap that can be used on bowls and other
food things.

Linseed oil keeps popping up on all the sites for "food safe wood
finishing."

Note, however, that 'boiled linseed oil' is NOT considered food safe; the
'boiled' variant has additives. Find USP (pharmacology grade, in the US)
linseed oil if you want a food-safe product.

I thought raw linseed oil did not cure. Am I mistaken?

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 16:45:18 -0600, Dave Balderstone wrote:

Note, however, that 'boiled linseed oil' is NOT considered food safe;
the 'boiled' variant has additives. Find USP (pharmacology grade, in
the US)
linseed oil if you want a food-safe product.

Or flax oil, which is the same stuff but more expensive.


I thought raw linseed oil did not cure. Am I mistaken?

It does, but quite slowly.

There's other problems with linseed oil. As the old saying goes, apply
it "once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a
year, and once a year forever." Also it keeps getting darker over time.

On 12/20/2014 3:29 PM, whit3rd wrote:


Note, however, that 'boiled linseed oil' is NOT considered food safe; the
'boiled' variant has additives. Find USP (pharmacology grade, in the US)
linseed oil if you want a food-safe product.


Wrong. All commercial finishes today are food safe when dried and cured.
http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/...les_497a.shtml

On 12/20/2014 12:17 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 12/20/2014 12:34 PM, Electric Comet wrote:


Mineral oil by itself is ok, and it does NOT go sticky in my
experience.

It has done so on metal surfaces.



It has no place to go on metal. Wood absorbs it and becomes sealed in
the process.
Metal has voids and pits and all sorts. If it was 'flowed' with nickle
it might not. Steel / iron are there. Rust starts in these places.

Martin

On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 17:07:08 +0000 (UTC)
Larry Blanchard wrote:


or forget the oil and use shellac - you eat it all the time.

How do I eat it all the time? As far as I know I don't.

In article , Electric Comet
wrote:

On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 17:07:08 +0000 (UTC)
Larry Blanchard wrote:


or forget the oil and use shellac - you eat it all the time.

How do I eat it all the time? As far as I know I don't.



It's used on coffee beans, pharmaceutical tablets, chewing gum, apples,
lemons and other fruit...

And candy:
Jelly beans, Malted Milk Balls, Milk Duds, Raisinettes, Goobers, Junior
Mints, Sugar Babies, Godiva¹s Dark Chocolate Almond Bar; Dark Chocolate
Cherries; Milk Chocolate Cashews; White Chocolate Pearls; Milk
Chocolate Pearls, Halloween candy corn, most Easter candy...

If your food is shiny, it's probably because of shellac.

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

On 12/20/2014 9:17 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
On 12/20/2014 12:17 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 12/20/2014 12:34 PM, Electric Comet wrote:


Mineral oil by itself is ok, and it does NOT go sticky in my
experience.

It has done so on metal surfaces.



It has no place to go on metal. Wood absorbs it and becomes sealed in
the process.
Metal has voids and pits and all sorts. If it was 'flowed' with nickle
it might not. Steel / iron are there. Rust starts in these places.

Martin

You're comparing a sidewalk crack to the grand canyon.

On 12/14/2014 2:18 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
I wanted to find a good oil, cheap that can be used on bowls and other
food things. I saw walnut oil in a video. Have you tried coconut oil?
The things that are important are a stable oil that doesn't go rancid.
Doesn't smell bad, neutral's ok.

Have you tried cooking oils? Canola, grape seed, sunflower seed, etc.
It's okay if the oil has to be re-applied now and again.

Mineral oil's readily available and I see people using that but it
can get slightly gummy/sticky.

If you've tried an oil and like it that would be good to know about.

Just FWIW...

When I put in cutting board/butcher blocks like this for customers:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...45669404269410

I generally present them, as lagniappe, with both these John Boos'
products to maintain their new product, and all their cutting boards,
thus far with excellent results.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6kzH1G-0sU

I usually shy away from products that are applied to wood with
descriptions/terms like "creme", and "mystery", but these do the job
well, and the client's are always appreciative.

YMMV...

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 12/21/2014 10:50 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 12/14/2014 2:18 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
I wanted to find a good oil, cheap that can be used on bowls and other
food things. I saw walnut oil in a video. Have you tried coconut oil?
The things that are important are a stable oil that doesn't go rancid.
Doesn't smell bad, neutral's ok.

Have you tried cooking oils? Canola, grape seed, sunflower seed, etc.
It's okay if the oil has to be re-applied now and again.

Mineral oil's readily available and I see people using that but it
can get slightly gummy/sticky.

If you've tried an oil and like it that would be good to know about.

Just FWIW...

When I put in cutting board/butcher blocks like this for customers:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...45669404269410


I don't think I will ever forget us cutting that monster to size.





I generally present them, as lagniappe, with both these John Boos'
products to maintain their new product, and all their cutting boards,
thus far with excellent results.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6kzH1G-0sU

I usually shy away from products that are applied to wood with
descriptions/terms like "creme", and "mystery", but these do the job
well, and the client's are always appreciative.

YMMV...

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 21:00:34 -0600, Dave Balderstone wrote:

And candy:
Jelly beans, Malted Milk Balls, Milk Duds, Raisinettes, Goobers, Junior
Mints, Sugar Babies, Godiva¹s Dark Chocolate Almond Bar; Dark Chocolate
Cherries; Milk Chocolate Cashews; White Chocolate Pearls; Milk Chocolate
Pearls, Halloween candy corn, most Easter candy...

And M&Ms :-).

http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/...les_497a.shtml

I suggest everyone read the entire article - it's not quite as definitive
as Ed seems to think. it's mostly based on the absence of reported
illness or death from ingesting finishes. As the old saying goes,
"Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence."

The article states:

"No manufacturer providing finishes to the woodworking community puts
their finishes through these tests. Thus, no manufacturer can
legitimately claim they meet FDA regulations."

Well, maybe not a finish manufacturer, but I suspect the purveyors of
food grade linseed/flax oil have :-).

And Tried&True states:

"All Tried & True wood finishes comply with the product safety standards
established by the FDA: "safe for food contact surfaces" (FDA 21, Sec
175.300)."

BTW, I don't particularly like T&T finishes - they're difficult to apply
properly on large surfaces - too thick. But they work great applied with
a rag to a spinning item on a lathe.

In article , Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 21:00:34 -0600, Dave Balderstone wrote:

And candy:
Jelly beans, Malted Milk Balls, Milk Duds, Raisinettes, Goobers, Junior
Mints, Sugar Babies, Godiva1s Dark Chocolate Almond Bar; Dark Chocolate
Cherries; Milk Chocolate Cashews; White Chocolate Pearls; Milk Chocolate
Pearls, Halloween candy corn, most Easter candy...

And M&Ms :-).

You'd think so, but shellac is NOT used on M&Ms.

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

In article , Larry Blanchard
wrote:

BTW, I don't particularly like T&T finishes - they're difficult to apply
properly on large surfaces - too thick. But they work great applied with
a rag to a spinning item on a lathe.

+1

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

On 12/21/2014 11:50 AM, Swingman wrote:


I usually shy away from products that are applied to wood with
descriptions/terms like "creme", and "mystery", but these do the job
well, and the client's are always appreciative.

If you use cream when you have wood it prevents sores and calluses.

On Sun, 21 Dec 2014 13:05:48 -0600, Dave Balderstone wrote:

In article , Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 21:00:34 -0600, Dave Balderstone wrote:

And candy:
Jelly beans, Malted Milk Balls, Milk Duds, Raisinettes, Goobers,
Junior Mints, Sugar Babies, Godiva1s Dark Chocolate Almond Bar; Dark
Chocolate Cherries; Milk Chocolate Cashews; White Chocolate Pearls;
Milk Chocolate Pearls, Halloween candy corn, most Easter candy...

And M&Ms :-).

You'd think so, but shellac is NOT used on M&Ms.


By golly, I checked and you're right. There goes my usual example :-).
Guess I'll switch to jelly beans.

In article , Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Sun, 21 Dec 2014 13:05:48 -0600, Dave Balderstone wrote:

In article , Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 21:00:34 -0600, Dave Balderstone wrote:

And candy:
Jelly beans, Malted Milk Balls, Milk Duds, Raisinettes, Goobers,
Junior Mints, Sugar Babies, Godiva1s Dark Chocolate Almond Bar; Dark
Chocolate Cherries; Milk Chocolate Cashews; White Chocolate Pearls;
Milk Chocolate Pearls, Halloween candy corn, most Easter candy...

And M&Ms :-).

You'd think so, but shellac is NOT used on M&Ms.


By golly, I checked and you're right. There goes my usual example :-).
Guess I'll switch to jelly beans.

Guess what I had originally typed just before Jelly Beans...

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 21:00:34 -0600
Dave Balderstone wrote:


It's used on coffee beans, pharmaceutical tablets, chewing gum,
apples, lemons and other fruit...


Can't understand why they would use it on coffee beans, shellac's
not free. Maybe a preservative?

It's not a food-safe oil and it doesn't stand up well to the rigors
of the kitchen.

In article , Electric Comet
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 21:00:34 -0600
Dave Balderstone wrote:


It's used on coffee beans, pharmaceutical tablets, chewing gum,
apples, lemons and other fruit...


Can't understand why they would use it on coffee beans, shellac's
not free. Maybe a preservative?

People who buy whole beans like 'em shiny, is my guess, and the cost of
the shellac is justified by increased sales.

It's not a food-safe oil and it doesn't stand up well to the rigors
of the kitchen.

Yeah, it's not a finish for that sort of usage. I'll stick with my
mineral oil/beeswax mix. Cheap, easy, effective, and attractive.

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

On 12/22/14 7:16 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In article , Electric Comet
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 21:00:34 -0600 Dave Balderstone
wrote:


It's used on coffee beans, pharmaceutical tablets, chewing gum,
apples, lemons and other fruit...


Can't understand why they would use it on coffee beans, shellac's
not free. Maybe a preservative?

People who buy whole beans like 'em shiny, is my guess, and the cost
of the shellac is justified by increased sales.


Interesting. As someone who's a bit of a coffee snob and has roasted
pounds and pounds of my own beans, I suspect that might be to masquerade old
beans as fresh ones.
Fresh roasted beans have a very oily surface and look wet. I could be
wrong, but I don't think shellac would stick to the beans with this oil
on them. It takes quite a while for this oil to evaporate from the
surface of the beans. So long, in fact, the beans would be stale by the
time it took for them to be dry. Applying shellac to make them appear
oily(=fresh) is a shrewd trick indeed.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 12/20/2014 11:26 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 12/20/2014 9:17 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
On 12/20/2014 12:17 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 12/20/2014 12:34 PM, Electric Comet wrote:


Mineral oil by itself is ok, and it does NOT go sticky in my
experience.

It has done so on metal surfaces.



It has no place to go on metal. Wood absorbs it and becomes sealed in
the process.
Metal has voids and pits and all sorts. If it was 'flowed' with nickle
it might not. Steel / iron are there. Rust starts in these places.

Martin

You're comparing a sidewalk crack to the grand canyon.

Sidewalk cracks as you say will rust any metal to nothing.
Doesn't take grand canyon size cracks to have a surface variation.

Martin

In article , Electric Comet
wrote:

On Fri, 19 Dec 2014 21:03:43 -0600
Dave Balderstone wrote:

In article , Electric Comet
wrote:

I wanted to find a good oil, cheap that can be used on bowls and
other food things. I saw walnut oil in a video. Have you tried
coconut oil? The things that are important are a stable oil that
doesn't go rancid. Doesn't smell bad, neutral's ok.

Have you tried cooking oils? Canola, grape seed, sunflower seed,
etc. It's okay if the oil has to be re-applied now and again.

Mineral oil's readily available and I see people using that but it
can get slightly gummy/sticky.

If you've tried an oil and like it that would be good to know about.

One cup of mineral oil and 3 oz by weight of beeswax. Heat until the
beeswax melts. Safest way is a 250 oven for 30 minutes.

Which form does it take after this? Is it like a paste or hard like
a wax or liquid?

With 3 ounces of beeswax, it's more a soft paste, a little looser
consistency than creamed honey. Wipes on very easily.


Walnut oil is good because it polymerizes.

Yes, as do a few others I've found out.

Mostly the nut oils, which is why you need to be careful about
allergies.

Mineral oil by itself is ok, and it does NOT go sticky in my
experience.

It has done so on metal surfaces.

I've never used it on metal. but with any finish too thick a wet coat
is generally bad news.

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes