I have started on a project that will require some curved cuts. I have
neither a band saw nor a drum sander. I plan to cut near the curve with
a jigsaw and finish up with a template (maybe plexi) and a template bit
on a router table.

I've seen videos where people affix the template to the work with
double-stick tape. Would this work in my application? What kind of tape,
exactly? How much of it?

As another option, I was thinking I could leave the piece a little long
on one of the non-curved sides and screw the template into the wood in
the "waste" area; cutting it off later. This seems less convenient, but
perhaps more certain to work.

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In article , Greg Guarino
wrote:

I've seen videos where people affix the template to the work with
double-stick tape. Would this work in my application? What kind of tape,
exactly? How much of it?

I use this stuff:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=49224&cat=1,110,43466

I generally run the 1" with about a 2" gap between. The template
shouldn't see much lateral pressure.

hth,

djb

--
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sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

"Greg Guarino" wrote in message

I have started on a project that will require some curved
cuts. I have neither a band saw nor a drum sander. I plan to cut near
the curve with a jigsaw and finish up with a template (maybe plexi) and
a template bit on a router table.

I've seen videos where people affix the template to the
work with double-stick tape. Would this work in my application?
What kind of tape, exactly? How much of it?

I use carpet tape, usually from HD. There are two kinds I am aware of...one
is a thin foam, avoid it, no good; the other is a thin, white film about 2"
wide. It works very well as long as both surfaces are smooth. If less than
smooth, whack the stuck together pieces with a hammer, may still work.

How much? Well, it rather depends upon the size of the template. If it
was, say, a foot square I'd probably use five pieces, each about 1"
square...one in the center, four near the corners. Takes considerable
effort to separate the template & work once you do the routing.



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Greg Guarino wrote:
I have started on a project that will require some curved cuts. I have
neither a band saw nor a drum sander. I plan to cut near the curve
with a jigsaw and finish up with a template (maybe plexi) and a template
bit on a router table.

Just be very careful Greg. Run some test cuts. You'll probably find that
your jig saw blade bends in the curved cut and does not cut a perpendicular
cut. If so - you'll have to allow for that.


I've seen videos where people affix the template to the work with
double-stick tape. Would this work in my application? What kind of
tape, exactly? How much of it?

Carpet tape works, but first run the test cuts. I'm serious - you are going
to find that your jig saw will not cut true - depending on the tightness of
the curve you are cutting, and/or whether it's an inside or outside curve.


As another option, I was thinking I could leave the piece a little
long on one of the non-curved sides and screw the template into the wood
in
the "waste" area; cutting it off later. This seems less convenient,
but perhaps more certain to work.

Waste is good when using a jig saw.


--

-Mike-

Dave Balderstone writes:
I use this stuff:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=49224&cat=1,110,43466

I also use this stuff. It makes regular double-sided tape seem like a
kid's toy in comparison.

On 2/24/2014 1:44 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote:
I have started on a project that will require some curved cuts. I have
neither a band saw nor a drum sander. I plan to cut near the curve
with a jigsaw and finish up with a template (maybe plexi) and a template
bit on a router table.

Just be very careful Greg. Run some test cuts. You'll probably find that
your jig saw blade bends in the curved cut and does not cut a perpendicular
cut. If so - you'll have to allow for that.

Basic advice is the kind I generally need and is always welcome, but I
did think of that.

I've seen videos where people affix the template to the work with
double-stick tape. Would this work in my application? What kind of
tape, exactly? How much of it?

Carpet tape works, but first run the test cuts. I'm serious - you are going
to find that your jig saw will not cut true - depending on the tightness of
the curve you are cutting, and/or whether it's an inside or outside curve.

Outside (convex). And have no fear, I have a general distrust for jigsaws.

As another option, I was thinking I could leave the piece a little
long on one of the non-curved sides and screw the template into the wood
in
the "waste" area; cutting it off later. This seems less convenient,
but perhaps more certain to work.

Waste is good when using a jig saw.




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On 2/24/2014 1:41 PM, dadiOH wrote:
Takes considerable
effort to separate the template & work once you do the routing.

I was wondering about that. Am I likely to to break the template if it's
1/4" plexi?

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"Greg Guarino" wrote in message

On 2/24/2014 1:41 PM, dadiOH wrote:
Takes considerable
effort to separate the template & work once you do the
routing.

I was wondering about that. Am I likely to to break the
template if it's 1/4" plexi?

No. Not unless you use LOTS of tape.


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On 2/24/2014 1:07 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I have started on a project that will require some curved cuts. I have
neither a band saw nor a drum sander. I plan to cut near the curve with
a jigsaw and finish up with a template (maybe plexi) and a template bit
on a router table.

I've seen videos where people affix the template to the work with
double-stick tape. Would this work in my application? What kind of tape,
exactly? How much of it?

As another option, I was thinking I could leave the piece a little long
on one of the non-curved sides and screw the template into the wood in
the "waste" area; cutting it off later. This seems less convenient, but
perhaps more certain to work.

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Tempered hardboard (masonite brand name), 1/4 " you can cut it then
easily sand it. Get the stuff that's smooth on both sides if you can, it
makes it easier to flip it.

Carpet tape is what I use, it's double sided, sticks tenaciously, so I
cut smaller strips, just enough to do the job. Get a trim flush bit, and
a pattern bit, because you may need to change which side you are routing
from if it starts to tear out.. piece of cake.

BTW you can do scalloped cuts if it starts tearing out and you can't
route it, then smooth them out, I found it works great.



--
Jeff

In article , Greg Guarino
wrote:

On 2/24/2014 1:41 PM, dadiOH wrote:
Takes considerable
effort to separate the template & work once you do the routing.

I was wondering about that. Am I likely to to break the template if it's
1/4" plexi?

Doubt it. When I get something that seems to be stuck, I use my heat
gun to gently warm the template and slightly soften the adhesive.

--
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sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

On 2/24/2014 1:07 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I have started on a project that will require some curved cuts. I have
neither a band saw nor a drum sander. I plan to cut near the curve with a
jigsaw and finish up with a template (maybe plexi) and a template bit on a
router table.

I've seen videos where people affix the template to the work with
double-stick tape. Would this work in my application? What kind of tape,
exactly? How much of it?

As another option, I was thinking I could leave the piece a little long on
one of the non-curved sides and screw the template into the wood in the
"waste" area; cutting it off later. This seems less convenient, but perhaps
more certain to work.

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I've always used the 'make it longer' option or simply clamped the
workpiece to the template where size permitted. I guess that double stick
works (enough people swear by it) but it always seemed to be chancy to me:
either it wouldn't stick well enough and result in damage or it would stick
too well which might lead to finishing bother down the road.

"dadiOH" wrote in :

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"Dave Balderstone" wrote:
Doubt it. When I get something that seems to be stuck, I use my heat
gun to gently warm the template and slightly soften the adhesive.
--------------------------------------------
A 1,500 watt heat gun helps you recover from a multitude of sins.

Like your AMEX card, don't leave home without it.

Lew

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:48:05 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Dave Balderstone" wrote:
Doubt it. When I get something that seems to be stuck, I use my heat
gun to gently warm the template and slightly soften the adhesive.
--------------------------------------------
A 1,500 watt heat gun helps you recover from a multitude of sins.

Like your AMEX card, don't leave home without it.

A 1500W heat gun may not help you recover from sins with your AMEX
card but it will stop you from sinning again.

On 2/24/2014 3:33 PM, dadiOH wrote:
"Greg Guarino" wrote in message

On 2/24/2014 1:41 PM, dadiOH wrote:
Takes considerable
effort to separate the template & work once you do the
routing.

I was wondering about that. Am I likely to to break the
template if it's 1/4" plexi?

No. Not unless you use LOTS of tape.

Good advice and Greg, think about it for a moment. You really aren't
applying all that much force to the template or the workpiece for that
matter. Think about those rubber routing /sanding mats. They hold
still pretty well, don't they.

Just try a practice piece with as little tape as you think that you can
get away with and see. Just make sure the tape that you DO use, bonds
well. That white, filmy double-stick carpet tape should hold on all but
rough sawn wood like white on rice.

On 2/24/2014 6:40 PM, Tyrone Tiews wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in :

This email is free from viruses and malware because
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It would be really nice if you got rid of this spam. You can turn it
off on avast. AFATG, you don't need to even have avast scan email or
news posts.

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____________________________

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LOL! Pot... Kettle... Black or absence of lightg

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:530be845$0$17073
:

A 1,500 watt heat gun helps you recover from a multitude of sins.

Like your AMEX card, don't leave home without it.

Lew

They can both also get you into all kinds of trouble. ;-)

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 2/24/2014 6:27 PM, BenignBodger wrote:

On 2/24/2014 1:07 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

I've seen videos where people affix the template to the work with
double-stick tape. Would this work in my application? What kind of tape,
exactly? How much of it?

As another option, I was thinking I could leave the piece a little
long on
one of the non-curved sides and screw the template into the wood in the
"waste" area; cutting it off later. This seems less convenient, but
perhaps
more certain to work.

I've always used the 'make it longer' option or simply clamped the
workpiece to the template where size permitted. I guess that double
stick works (enough people swear by it) but it always seemed to be
chancy to me: either it wouldn't stick well enough and result in damage
or it would stick too well which might lead to finishing bother down the
road.

Agree totally.

I rarely use double sided tape on a routing template.

Learned long ago that if you do enough pattern routing, using a template
and pattern bit, there will be the occasional incident due to grain
direction/wood imperfections where a workpiece is subject to being
grabbed, resulting in a ruined work piece and often a ruined template,
and double sided tape is not enough of a defense when this happen as far
as safety goes.

It pays to keep in mind that Murphy is always lurking when routing, and
if safety is not reason enough over design engineer a pattern jig,
saving that last piece of expensive stock from harm is enough reason by
itself.

I do a lot of pattern routing, and always make my routing templates as a
"jig", whereby I can secure the work piece with clamps (see below) on at
least two sides, and preferably three, both for security purposes, and
for at least one side acting as a reference edge for accuracy. I also
like to have a handhold that I can grasp securely for obvious reasons.

I also make the routing "template jigs" out of MDF and/or plywood due to
the softness of the material should the worst happen and it comes into
contact with the router bit.

With curved parts, I much prefer MDF, as it is much easier to fair a
curve in that material. I will also often "edge band" the curve if I
want longevity of the curved pattern for multiple parts.

Just a couple of examples:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...6 54165813634

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...0 61482723378


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On 2/25/2014 8:59 AM, Swingman wrote:

With curved parts, I much prefer MDF, as it is much easier to fair a
curve in that material.

That raises the issue of how accurately I can make the curve in the
template, especially keeping the curved edge square to the face. I'm
pretty sure I can buy a plexiglas circle of the right radius at a local
plastics store, which would take care of that.

Seeing your jigs, I have some other ideas. The "curve" would be an arc
of a circle, so I could conceivably make a jig that pivots about a
center point and holds the work on the moving part. If I wanted to be
forward-thinking, I might even be able to make it adjustable for
different radii.

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On 2/25/2014 9:36 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 2/25/2014 8:59 AM, Swingman wrote:

With curved parts, I much prefer MDF, as it is much easier to fair a
curve in that material.

That raises the issue of how accurately I can make the curve in the
template, especially keeping the curved edge square to the face. I'm
pretty sure I can buy a plexiglas circle of the right radius at a local
plastics store, which would take care of that.

Seeing your jigs, I have some other ideas. The "curve" would be an arc
of a circle, so I could conceivably make a jig that pivots about a
center point and holds the work on the moving part. If I wanted to be
forward-thinking, I might even be able to make it adjustable for
different radii.

Than use a trammel. I have made dozens of them down through the years,
easy enough to make:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...0 93235360754

.... I was as gifted this one a few years back:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...1 49638224194

Some more template router jig ideas that I use quite frequently:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...2 25887409474

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...2 34429149106

The one for corbels here is a method I use for a lot of curves,
including curved shelves that are arcs of a circle for use in kitchens

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...5 94717579266

I used a similar one designed around the trammel to to make these:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...7 19502051410


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On 2/25/2014 9:36 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I'm pretty sure I can buy a plexiglas circle of the right radius at a
local plastics store, which would take care of that.

Personally, I would shy away from using plexiglass as material for a
router based template for pattern routing.

Just me.

YMMV ...


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"Swingman" wrote

Personally, I would shy away from using plexiglass as material for a
router based template for pattern routing.

Just me.

Yep. Bearing gets hot and melts into the pattern. Not good. Plexi is
nasty to cut and clogs sandpaper.
--
Jim in NC


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"Swingman" wrote in message

On 2/25/2014 9:36 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I'm pretty sure I can buy a plexiglas circle of the
right radius at a local plastics store, which would
take care of that.

Personally, I would shy away from using plexiglass as
material for a router based template for pattern routing.

Just me.

And me.


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On 2/25/2014 12:30 PM, Swingman wrote:
Then use a trammel.

Is that a jig designed by a committee?

I don't believe I have heard that name before, but I have seen the
device. One potential problem: the radius I intend to use would put the
center "pin" inside the piece to be cut. I wouldn't want to put a hole
in the piece, so I'd have to affix some sacrificial piece to the work.

The jig idea I had was something like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12778985114/

But I saw at least two problems upon looking at the drawing. All of the
layers (the router table, the two-layer jig and the work itself) mean
that the router bit would not be long enough. I've been planning to
build a router table (although not right away) and could then do away
with one layer; drilling a pivot hole into the table itself. But there's
also the issue of stopping the cut at the right point. I suppose I could
figure that out as well, but it is starting to seem more complex than I
would like.

I'm now thinking it might be simpler to use a trammel to cut a template
and the template (screwed into a still-oversize workpiece) to rout the
arcs.

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On 2/25/2014 3:03 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

I'm now thinking it might be simpler to use a trammel to cut a template
and the template (screwed into a still-oversize workpiece) to rout the
arcs.

There you go, Bubba ... "thinking" is the operative word, and you are
now thinking like a problem solving woodworker.

Two main reasons for coming up with a jig design to use in the situation
you outlined in your original post:

Accurate Repeatability and Safety (both yours, and the work piece's).

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"Greg Guarino" wrote in message

On 2/25/2014 12:30 PM, Swingman wrote:
Then use a trammel.

Is that a jig designed by a committee?

I don't believe I have heard that name before, but I have
seen the device. One potential problem: the radius I intend to use
would put the center "pin" inside the piece to be cut. I wouldn't want
to put a hole in the piece, so I'd have to affix some sacrificial piece
to the work.
The jig idea I had was something like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12778985114/

But I saw at least two problems upon looking at the
drawing. All of the layers (the router table, the two-layer jig and the
work
itself) mean that the router bit would not be long enough. I've been
planning to build a router table (although not right away) and could
then do away with one layer; drilling a pivot hole into the table
itself. But there's also the issue of stopping the cut at the right point.
I
suppose I could figure that out as well, but it is starting to seem more
complex than I would like.

I'm now thinking it might be simpler to use a trammel to
cut a template and the template (screwed into a still-oversize
workpiece) to rout the arcs.

I seem to recall that you wanted an arc from a circle. If so, why not just
make a circle cutting base for your router? Make one, cut virtually any arc
you want. The 1/4" acrylic would work fine for that.

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On 2/26/2014 7:50 AM, dadiOH wrote:
I seem to recall that you wanted an arc from a circle. If so, why not just
make a circle cutting base for your router? Make one, cut virtually any arc
you want. The 1/4" acrylic would work fine for that.

As I mentioned, the center of the arc would be (slightly) inside the
workpiece itself, which complicates things a little as I wouldn't want a
hole in the finished piece. I have thought of a few ways around that,
but I'm still sifting them in my brain.

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On 2/25/2014 5:01 PM, Swingman wrote:
you are now thinking like a problem solving woodworker.

With my limited experience and the gaps in my tool arsenal,
problem-solving is a nearly continuous activity.

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On 2/24/2014 10:07 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I have started on a project that will require some curved cuts. I have
neither a band saw nor a drum sander. I plan to cut near the curve with
a jigsaw and finish up with a template (maybe plexi) and a template bit
on a router table.

It works quite well as long as you have the following.

1. double sided tape
2. a smoothly sanded template
3. the correct router bit.

(1) Cheap carpet tape from Lowes or Home Depot.
Use just a small amount, using too much will
make taking the template almost impossible.

2. Make the template as smooth as possible because
any lumps,bumps or imperfections will be shown in
the finished piece.

3. You will end up needing a bottom or top bearing
bit. In some cases, both types of bits are needed.

You can also buy a bit that has both a top and bottom
bearing which can be fairly handy.

Browse through this list of bits to see some options.

http://www.freudtools.com/index.php/...im_Bits&page=1

"Greg Guarino" wrote in message

On 2/26/2014 7:50 AM, dadiOH wrote:
I seem to recall that you wanted an arc from a circle. If so, why not
just make a circle cutting base for your
router? Make one, cut virtually any arc you want. The
1/4" acrylic would work fine for that.

As I mentioned, the center of the arc would be (slightly)
inside the workpiece itself, which complicates things a little as I
wouldn't want a hole in the finished piece. I have thought of a few ways
around that, but I'm still sifting them in my brain.


I'm assuming that both sides will show so you can't put a hole where it
won't show? In that case, do as the turners do...glue a piece of wood to
the piece with paper inbetween; make your hole in it, rout, knock off the
wooden tab, scrape off paper.



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On 2/26/2014 2:53 PM, dadiOH wrote:
I'm assuming that both sides will show so you can't put a hole where it
won't show? In that case, do as the turners do...glue a piece of wood to
the piece with paper inbetween; make your hole in it, rout, knock off the
wooden tab, scrape off paper.

And, add shims, of the same thickness as the "wooden tab", to the bottom
of the router end of the trammel to keep the trammel parallel to the
workpiece, otherwise the edge of the routed arc will not be
perpendicular to the face.

Now, that's where that double sided tape will come in handy.

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On 2/26/2014 3:53 PM, dadiOH wrote:
I'm assuming that both sides will show so you can't put a hole where it
won't show?

Yes.

In that case, do as the turners do...glue a piece of wood to
the piece with paper inbetween; make your hole in it, rout, knock off the
wooden tab, scrape off paper.

Paper? What kind of glue? I haven't heard of this method.

I was thinking of clamping a piece of wood (with the pilot hole) to the
workpiece.


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On 2/26/2014 4:07 PM, Swingman wrote:
And, add shims, of the same thickness as the "wooden tab", to the bottom
of the router end of the trammel to keep the trammel parallel to the
workpiece, otherwise the edge of the routed arc will not be
perpendicular to the face.

Thanks. That bit I would have thought of myself. My mental, theoretical,
"ideal" sense of geometry is good. I've always been adept at turning an
object around in my head. It's the translation from the ideal to the
material that I need some work on.

I'm still thinking it may be easier in the long run to make a template
(that I CAN drill a hole in), then use the template to rout the workpieces.

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"Greg Guarino" wrote in message

On 2/26/2014 3:53 PM, dadiOH wrote:
I'm assuming that both sides will show so you can't put
a hole where it won't show?

Yes.

In that case, do as the turners do...glue a piece of wood
to
the piece with paper inbetween; make your hole in it,
rout, knock off the wooden tab, scrape off paper.

Paper? What kind of glue? I haven't heard of this method.

Most any paper...wrapping paper, butcher paper, newspaper, notebook paper,
etc.

Glue...white glue, hot melt, mucilage, airplane glue...anything that isn't
super strong and can be removed with relative ease, preferably with water.
Super glue wouldn't be good, wheat paste might, don't know, have never used
it (for that purpose).


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"Swingman" wrote in message

On 2/26/2014 2:53 PM, dadiOH wrote:
I'm assuming that both sides will show so you can't put
a hole where it won't show? In that case, do as the
turners do...glue a piece of wood to the piece with
paper inbetween; make your hole in it, rout, knock off
the wooden tab, scrape off paper.

And, add shims, of the same thickness as the "wooden
tab", to the bottom of the router end of the trammel to
keep the trammel parallel to the workpiece, otherwise the
edge of the routed arc will not be perpendicular to the
face.

Makes a nice bevel though

Actually, I have on occasion afixed a block on one side of a router base for
that purpose; works fine as long as you keep the router oriented the same
way throughout the cut (a straight edge on the base helps).

Now, that's where that double sided tape will come in
handy.



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dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
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On 2/27/14, 9:48 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"Greg Guarino" wrote in message

On 2/26/2014 3:53 PM, dadiOH wrote:
I'm assuming that both sides will show so you can't put
a hole where it won't show?

Yes.

In that case, do as the turners do...glue a piece of wood
to
the piece with paper inbetween; make your hole in it,
rout, knock off the wooden tab, scrape off paper.

Paper? What kind of glue? I haven't heard of this method.

Most any paper...wrapping paper, butcher paper, newspaper, notebook paper,
etc.

Glue...white glue, hot melt, mucilage, airplane glue...anything that isn't
super strong and can be removed with relative ease, preferably with water.
Super glue wouldn't be good, wheat paste might, don't know, have never used
it (for that purpose).


I've done this to turn drum shells and it works great... almost too great.
I used paper grocery bags, which I always keep handy for sanding between
finish coats.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Thu, 27 Feb 2014 10:48:40 -0500, dadiOH wrote:

Paper? What kind of glue? I haven't heard of this method.

Most any paper...wrapping paper, butcher paper, newspaper, notebook
paper, etc.

Brown paper grocery bags are used the most. They are strong enough to
hold but can be separated into layers without having to soften the glue.
Just hit with a mallet or pry with a chisel.

--
Where have all the flowers gone? Pete Seeger 1919-2014

On 2/25/14 8:36 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 2/25/2014 8:59 AM, Swingman wrote:

With curved parts, I much prefer MDF, as it is much easier to fair a
curve in that material.

That raises the issue of how accurately I can make the curve in the
template, especially keeping the curved edge square to the face. I'm
pretty sure I can buy a plexiglas circle of the right radius at a local
plastics store, which would take care of that.

Seeing your jigs, I have some other ideas. The "curve" would be an arc
of a circle, so I could conceivably make a jig that pivots about a
center point and holds the work on the moving part. If I wanted to be
forward-thinking, I might even be able to make it adjustable for
different radii.

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I do a bunch of template routing and have always used masonite and the
thin carpet tape (from HD). For the curved edges of a cutting board
sized object (10"x16"), I find 4x 2" square pieces to be plenty. Cut as
close a practical to minimize router work (I use a bandsaw) and use a
spiral fluted template bit. The straight flute bits tend to grab and
throw a bit too much for my liking.
I also make a *lot* of circular frames for my wife's glass art. For
these I use a template cut from masonite with a 1/2" hole in the center.
I mount the template to the workpiece (with carpet tape) and use a
bandsaw jig to get a rough circle that is about 1/8" larger in diameter
than the finished size. For routing, I have a circle jig with a 1/2"
post clamped to the router table. This is set up to provide the final
diameter by measuring from the post to the edge of the bit. I then lower
the bit (a spiral up-cut), place the workpiece over the post, then raise
the bit for the first of a series of cuts. As the bit cuts, I rotate the
workpiece, raise the bit, rotate, etc. until the outer diameter is
finished. For the inside I just move the jig in towards the bit for my
desired opening size and repeat the operation as before. The only
difference is I keep track of the bit height so I don't cut through the
template (you can't see the bit while doing this). The tape holds
everything in place while doing this.
The result is a doughnut shaped frame with all the necessary rabbets,
perfectly round, and only requiring minimal sanding.

Back to the templates and template router bit: I often find that after
tracing my pattern onto the masonite and cutting it out, the process of
hand shaping and sanding will leave the surface with a slightly beveled
and/or rounded edge. I usually take this template and attach it to
another piece of masonite (with carpet tape) and cut out a matching
'production' template, this time with perfectly square edges and a
smoother surface.

For me, the key points are to use spiral fluted bits. If grain direction
becomes an issue, swapping between top and bottom bearing template bits
solves the problem.

-Bruce

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On 3/1/2014 10:54 AM, Brewster wrote:
Back to the templates and template router bit: I often find that after
tracing my pattern onto the masonite and cutting it out, the process of
hand shaping and sanding will leave the surface with a slightly beveled
and/or rounded edge. I usually take this template and attach it to
another piece of masonite (with carpet tape) and cut out a matching
'production' template, this time with perfectly square edges and a
smoother surface.

For me, the key points are to use spiral fluted bits. If grain direction
becomes an issue, swapping between top and bottom bearing template bits
solves the problem.

Firstly, thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed response.
And thanks to everyone else as well.

I've been thinking about the "beveling" problem, especially now that I
have decided to really get myself in trouble and go for a more complex
curve. I may indeed need to follow your advice.

The spiral fluted bit makes perfect sense, but I don't have one today,
one of the rare days when I have a stretch of free time. So I intend
experiment a bit and see what I can accomplish.

I've printed a paper template from Sketchup which I intend to affix to
some mdf with spray adhesive. Than I'll try to cut, file, sand and
possibly dremel the mdf to the proper shape.

Assuming I still have some time (and hair) left, I will try to make my
pieces out of plywood. If they don't look too bad after edge-banding, I
may even use them. If not, at least I won't have made my first attempts
at pattern routing on expensive stock.

Here's the latest (revision number 1,000,000):

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12861854444/

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I don't know why my previous post took several hours to succeed, but
here's the "after" report.

I printed a paper template of the curved shelf support I intended to
make. I couldn't figure why Sketchup insisted on printing it on 3 sheets
of paper when it could easily have fit on 2. I did a little cutting,
aligned the sheets and taped them together.

Taking advantage of 2 factory edges, I used spray adhesive to mount the
paper template on a piece of 3/16 MDF. (I would have used rubber cement,
but there was none to be had)

I jigsawed the piece to rough shape - rougher than necessary as it
turned out. I hardly ever use a saber saw and was pleasantly surprised
at how smooth and square the cut was. I could have saved myself some
filing.

I filed the MDF down to the line as best I could. Inspecting the piece
afterward, I noted that I had indeed made the edge less than perfectly
square. It wasn't too bad though, and my plan was to work through the
process to the end, even if just for practice.

I laid out the shape of the finished piece on a piece of oak ply and cut
that roughly to shape. I put a template bit in the router table with the
roller on the bottom. Thus the template was beneath the work piece. I
decided to just fasten the template to the work with spring clamps to
see how that would work out.

I can't overemphasize how pleased (and surprised) I was at the ease of
the process. In a very sort time I had a piece exactly the same shape as
the template, which is of course what is supposed to happen, but I have
come to expect complications.

The spring clamps worked out pretty well, too, although I will probably
try to use a different method in the future.

The process, including making the template, was so easy in fact, that I
found myself thinking I could do it a little better. The curve on my
test piece was made from three arcs. It looked goo on the computer
screen, but something about it didn't quite "flow" when I saw it in the
flesh.

Back to Sketchup. As an aside, I find that one effect of Sketchup is
that a perfectly innocent project can acquire complications.
I wanted the curve to "flow" into a straight edge at the bottom.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/12861854444/ (the original curve)

But a single arc could not be tangent to that edge AND intersect the
front of the upper shelf. Some other shape was needed. I figured
(correctly) that someone must have created a plug-in for Bezier curves
and I downloaded one.

Here are the two templates, to compare the curves:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...n/photostream/

It turns out that Sketchup defaults to printing the shape of the
viewing window (geez - is there a setting to fix this?). I narrowed the
window on the computer and was then able to print the template on 2
sheets of paper.

This time I jigsawed the MDF a little closer to the line. I got to
thinking about how I could keep the template edge square. I laid the mdf
on a piece of scrap and turned the file edge-down on the (sacrificial)
work surface, hoping that would keep the file face plumb.

After a few seconds of that I took out a block plane instead(feel free
to tell me this was crazy). I raised the template MDF a little above the
work surface with a scrap of the same MDF. Then I laid the plane on its
side on the work surface and started removing the waste down to the
line. Although using a straight plane to shave down a curved surface
(convex, of course) seemed a little odd (and MDF at that), it worked
pretty well.

To further smooth the edge, I wrapped a piece of sandpaper around a
small block and laid THAT face down on the work surface, using its edge
to sand the curve. Again, the edge removing the material was kept plumb.

As ass-backward as this may sound, the edge of the template was a marked
improvement over my first attempt. It had no obvious waviness to it.

I proceeded to make the four pieces. It was remarkably quick and I like
the results. Fun too. I can already see ways that I might have improved
the process. I will definitely be doing more of this sort of thing in
the future.

Thanks to all for the advice.

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