At a garage sale recently, I ran across a "complimentary" issue of
Woodsmith (no issue number) which contained a plan for a "classic
bookcase" which could be built singly or in multiples. Looked like just
what I had been planning.

One question arose. At the very end of the article it mentions
installing four levelers and gives a diagram using Rockler part number
31210.

Looking at the plan, I see no way to get to the levelers after
installation. Yes, I can drill some holes through the bottom shelf to
access the leveler screws, but there's no mention of that in the
article. Is there some esoteric method of accessing the levelers that
I'm unaware of or is this just an oversight in the article?

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This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.

Larry Blanchard wrote:
At a garage sale recently, I ran across a "complimentary" issue of
Woodsmith (no issue number) which contained a plan for a "classic
bookcase" which could be built singly or in multiples. Looked like just
what I had been planning.

One question arose. At the very end of the article it mentions
installing four levelers and gives a diagram using Rockler part number
31210.

Looking at the plan, I see no way to get to the levelers after
installation. Yes, I can drill some holes through the bottom shelf to
access the leveler screws, but there's no mention of that in the
article. Is there some esoteric method of accessing the levelers that
I'm unaware of or is this just an oversight in the article?

Some "levelers" I looked at recently could be adjusted with a hex wrench
from directly underneath the bottom of the "foot". Maybe (possibly)
yours are like that?

Bill

"Larry Blanchard" wrote:

One question arose. At the very end of the article it mentions
installing four levelers and gives a diagram using Rockler part
number
31210.
-------------------------------------
I've used this technique to install several levelers as follows:

Drill blind hole and install triangular Tee-Nut.

Thread a jam nut onto threaded leveler, then thread into tee-nut.

Use an open end wrench to adjust then tighten jam nut to lock into
place.

Ya, you probably have to get on your belly.

It's messy, but it works.

Have fun.

BTW, this assumes you have sufficient stock to drill hole,
otherwise glue a block in corner and drill that.



Lew

One question arose. At the very end of the article it mentions

installing four levelers and gives a diagram using Rockler part number

31210.



Looking at the plan, I see no way to get to the levelers after

installation. Yes, I can drill some holes through the bottom shelf to

access the leveler screws, but there's no mention of that in the

article. Is there some esoteric method of accessing the levelers that

I'm unaware of or is this just an oversight in the article?


From Rockler product page for 31210
These ready to install, pre-drilled blocks make leveling cabinets and bookcases a snap. The threaded nylon tipped glide is adjustable to a height of 2'' either from the top, through a hole in the cabinet floor, or from below using an open end wrench. Leveling blocks are easy to install with glue and the included screws, and are rated to support up to 150 lbs each."

On Fri, 4 Oct 2013 16:02:56 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote:



One question arose. At the very end of the article it mentions

installing four levelers and gives a diagram using Rockler part number

31210.



Looking at the plan, I see no way to get to the levelers after

installation. Yes, I can drill some holes through the bottom shelf to

access the leveler screws, but there's no mention of that in the

article. Is there some esoteric method of accessing the levelers that

I'm unaware of or is this just an oversight in the article?


From Rockler product page for 31210
These ready to install, pre-drilled blocks make leveling cabinets and bookcases a snap. The threaded nylon tipped glide is adjustable to a height of 2'' either from the top, through a hole in the cabinet floor, or from below using an open end wrench. Leveling blocks are easy to install with glue and the included screws, and are rated to support up to 150 lbs each."
Sometimes you just need to tip the shelf unit and turn the leveler,
put it back in place, check and repeat as required.

Larry Blanchard wrote:
At a garage sale recently, I ran across a "complimentary" issue of
Woodsmith (no issue number) which contained a plan for a "classic
bookcase" which could be built singly or in multiples. Looked like just
what I had been planning.

One question arose. At the very end of the article it mentions
installing four levelers and gives a diagram using Rockler part number
31210.

Looking at the plan, I see no way to get to the levelers after
installation. Yes, I can drill some holes through the bottom shelf to
access the leveler screws, but there's no mention of that in the
article. Is there some esoteric method of accessing the levelers that
I'm unaware of or is this just an oversight in the article?

Sounds like an oversight. These are from Rockler, and how I mounted them:

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yS...-57-01_918.jpg


--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On Sat, 05 Oct 2013 07:53:32 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Sounds like an oversight. These are from Rockler, and how I mounted
them:

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yS...I/AAAAAAAAKAY/
mzLKc3kS1tU/s2048-no/2012-01-30_13-57-01_918.jpg

I'm going with the oversight reason :-). Your method looks nice. I've
done them like that before and will this time.

For those who mentioned adjusting from below, the bookcase is flush to
the floor. And tilting it back would require moving it out from the wall
(after disconnecting it from a wall anchor), adjusting, and moving it
back.

Holes through the bottom shelf is easily the best solution.

I recently re-read a thread on the decline in publishing quality that I
participated in in another group some time back. It was on model
railroads, but the same principle applies.

Management doesn't seem to realize that proofreaders did a lot more than
correct spelling errors. Or they say they can't afford that level of
accuracy due to the decline in readership, ignoring the fact that the
error level contributes to that decline.

I drove past a large reader board yesterday where "too" was spelled
"to". I realize there are a lot of people who have problems with
spelling and/or using the right word, but most don't display their errors
in letters 12" high :-).

--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.

On Sat, 05 Oct 2013 07:53:32 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Sounds like an oversight. These are from Rockler, and how I mounted
them:

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yS...I/AAAAAAAAKAY/
mzLKc3kS1tU/s2048-no/2012-01-30_13-57-01_918.jpg

I'm going with the oversight reason :-). Your method looks nice. I've
done them like that before and will this time.

For those who mentioned adjusting from below, the bookcase is flush to
the floor. And tilting it back would require moving it out from the wall
(after disconnecting it from a wall anchor), adjusting, and moving it
back.

Holes through the bottom shelf is easily the best solution.

I recently re-read a thread on the decline in publishing quality that I
participated in in another group some time back. It was on model
railroads, but the same principle applies.

Management doesn't seem to realize that proofreaders did a lot more than
correct spelling errors. Or they say they can't afford that level of
accuracy due to the decline in readership, ignoring the fact that the
error level contributes to that decline.

I drove past a large reader board yesterday where "too" was spelled
"to". I realize there are a lot of people who have problems with
spelling and/or using the right word, but most don't display their errors
in letters 12" high :-).

--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.

On Sat, 05 Oct 2013 07:53:32 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Sounds like an oversight. These are from Rockler, and how I mounted
them:

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yS...I/AAAAAAAAKAY/
mzLKc3kS1tU/s2048-no/2012-01-30_13-57-01_918.jpg

I'm going with the oversight reason :-). Your method looks nice. I've
done them like that before and will this time.

For those who mentioned adjusting from below, the bookcase is flush to
the floor. And tilting it back would require moving it out from the wall
(after disconnecting it from a wall anchor), adjusting, and moving it
back.

Holes through the bottom shelf is easily the best solution.

I recently re-read a thread on the decline in publishing quality that I
participated in in another group some time back. It was on model
railroads, but the same principle applies.

Management doesn't seem to realize that proofreaders did a lot more than
correct spelling errors. Or they say they can't afford that level of
accuracy due to the decline in readership, ignoring the fact that the
error level contributes to that decline.

I drove past a large reader board yesterday where "too" was spelled
"to". I realize there are a lot of people who have problems with
spelling and/or using the right word, but most don't display their errors
in letters 12" high :-).

--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.

On Sat, 05 Oct 2013 16:51:28 +0000, Larry Blanchard wrote:

And wrote, and wrote, and wrote - sorry guys, my server was stuttering.

--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.

On Sat, 05 Oct 2013 16:51:28 +0000, Larry Blanchard wrote:

And wrote, and wrote, and wrote - sorry guys, my server was stuttering.

--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.

On Sat, 05 Oct 2013 16:51:28 +0000, Larry Blanchard wrote:

And wrote, and wrote, and wrote - sorry guys, my server was stuttering.

--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.

On Sat, 05 Oct 2013 16:51:28 +0000, Larry Blanchard wrote:

And wrote, and wrote, and wrote - sorry guys, my server is stuttering.

--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.

Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 05 Oct 2013 07:53:32 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Sounds like an oversight. These are from Rockler, and how I mounted
them:

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yS...I/AAAAAAAAKAY/
mzLKc3kS1tU/s2048-no/2012-01-30_13-57-01_918.jpg

I'm going with the oversight reason :-). Your method looks nice. I've
done them like that before and will this time.

For those who mentioned adjusting from below, the bookcase is flush to
the floor. And tilting it back would require moving it out from the wall
(after disconnecting it from a wall anchor), adjusting, and moving it
back.

Holes through the bottom shelf is easily the best solution.

I recently re-read a thread on the decline in publishing quality that I
participated in in another group some time back. It was on model
railroads, but the same principle applies.

Management doesn't seem to realize that proofreaders did a lot more than
correct spelling errors. Or they say they can't afford that level of
accuracy due to the decline in readership, ignoring the fact that the
error level contributes to that decline.

I drove past a large reader board yesterday where "too" was spelled
"to". I realize there are a lot of people who have problems with
spelling and/or using the right word, but most don't display their errors
in letters 12" high :-).


FWIW, McMaster Carr sells the same leveling feet that Swingman pointed out
for under $15 for a set of 4. IIRC the Rockler set is considerably more
expensive.