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Here they are... what I was asking all the HVLP spraying questions about.
http://goo.gl/1exvw

Phone pics, so not great detail.
And silly me, I forgot to get a picture of the left side panel of
bookcase.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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On 2/14/2013 11:48 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Here they are... what I was asking all the HVLP spraying questions about.
http://goo.gl/1exvw

Phone pics, so not great detail.
And silly me, I forgot to get a picture of the left side panel of bookcase.




Looks great! No come to my house and so it again, on both sides of my
office window and over the window. Oh and I want that rolling ladder
too for the 42" above the window. ;~)
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-MIKE- wrote:
Here they are... what I was asking all the HVLP spraying questions
about. http://goo.gl/1exvw

Phone pics, so not great detail.
And silly me, I forgot to get a picture of the left side panel of
bookcase.


Nice work Mike.

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On Thursday, February 14, 2013 11:48:05 AM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
Here they are...


Looks great.

Sonny
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On 2/14/2013 12:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
Here they are... what I was asking all the HVLP spraying questions about.
http://goo.gl/1exvw

Phone pics, so not great detail.
And silly me, I forgot to get a picture of the left side panel of bookcase.


I like it. Looks like it is about full. Time to start another one.

--
 GW Ross 

 If wishes were horses, dogfood would 
 be a lot cheaper. 








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On 2/14/2013 11:48 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Here they are... what I was asking all the HVLP spraying questions about.
http://goo.gl/1exvw

Phone pics, so not great detail.
And silly me, I forgot to get a picture of the left side panel of bookcase.


Beautiful job, Mike ... AAMOF, as good as it gets, Bubba.

With work like that, you can do my built-ins anytime!!

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Phone pics, so not great detail.

And silly me, I forgot to get a picture of the left side panel of

bookcase.


Vurry noice

Perhaps consider continuing the baseboard that is along the wall around the front and side of the unit. This is the typical approach for built-ins to make them look more integrated.

You can see I did it here (kinda hard to see how it ties in.) http://www.sonomaproducts.com/images...ery/built1.jpg I didn't use a toe kick and I think it would look better had I done so as you did.
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On 2/14/13 2:21 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:


Phone pics, so not great detail.

And silly me, I forgot to get a picture of the left side panel of

bookcase.


Vurry noice

Perhaps consider continuing the baseboard that is along the wall
around the front and side of the unit. This is the typical approach
for built-ins to make them look more integrated.

You can see I did it here (kinda hard to see how it ties in.)
http://www.sonomaproducts.com/images...ery/built1.jpg
I didn't use a toe kick and I think it would look better had I done
so as you did.


First of all, excellent style and execution on yours!

Secondly, continuing the baseboard was in the plans-- already painted
and cut. But when I placed a piece down, against the base of the cases,
I liked the looks better without it.

So without influencing their opinion, I asked the clients which they
liked better and they like just shoe, too. After they made their
decision, we discussed how things like crown and baseboard were
traditionally extended, as you explained, but I was never one to stick
with tradition for tradition's sake. We all agreed we liked the crown,
but not the baseboard. Of course, I would've gone with their choice,
either way.

If I were to think about it another couple minutes, I might've done a
rectangular shoe around the case base.


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"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
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On 2/14/13 12:15 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/14/2013 11:48 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Here they are... what I was asking all the HVLP spraying questions about.
http://goo.gl/1exvw

Phone pics, so not great detail.
And silly me, I forgot to get a picture of the left side panel of
bookcase.




Looks great! No come to my house and so it again, on both sides of my
office window and over the window. Oh and I want that rolling ladder
too for the 42" above the window. ;~)


Thanks.... I always wanted to build one of those ladders. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

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On 2/14/13 12:16 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
Here they are... what I was asking all the HVLP spraying questions
about. http://goo.gl/1exvw

Phone pics, so not great detail.
And silly me, I forgot to get a picture of the left side panel of
bookcase.


Nice work Mike.


tanks a rot. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply



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On 2/14/13 12:35 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, February 14, 2013 11:48:05 AM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
Here they are...


Looks great.

Sonny


'preciate it. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

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On 2/14/13 12:42 PM, G.W.Ross wrote:
On 2/14/2013 12:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
Here they are... what I was asking all the HVLP spraying questions about.
http://goo.gl/1exvw

Phone pics, so not great detail.
And silly me, I forgot to get a picture of the left side panel of
bookcase.


I like it. Looks like it is about full. Time to start another one.


Just like a workshop, huh?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

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On 2/14/13 2:07 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/14/2013 11:48 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Here they are... what I was asking all the HVLP spraying questions about.
http://goo.gl/1exvw

Phone pics, so not great detail.
And silly me, I forgot to get a picture of the left side panel of
bookcase.


Beautiful job, Mike ... AAMOF, as good as it gets, Bubba.

With work like that, you can do my built-ins anytime!!


Thanks-- always carries weight coming from you.
Next time, I'll probably upgrade to the Earlex.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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The customer is always right and I am sure they are super happy with your fine work.

Thx for the compliment. I did punt on the shelves. Right now they are just cut from particle board covered with like shrink wrapped laminate of a whitewashed looking oak pattern. They had the stock at home depot or lowes in 8ft and my shop was in transition so it was a quick solution. I'll make real shelves at some point. The eliptical arch matches the arch I built into an opening through the wall to my kitchen and also added it to the fireplace surround in the same room.

Hmmm is there any other way I can hijack this thread to talk more about me?
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On 2/14/2013 2:21 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

You can see I did it here (kinda hard to see how it ties in.)http://www.sonomaproducts.com/images...ery/built1.jpg I didn't use a toe kick and I think it would look better had I done so as you did.


Well done, as usual.

Especially like the arch bumpout and the cabinet backs ... classy.

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On 2/14/13 5:58 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
The customer is always right and I am sure they are super happy with
your fine work.

Thx for the compliment. I did punt on the shelves. Right now they are
just cut from particle board covered with like shrink wrapped
laminate of a whitewashed looking oak pattern. They had the stock at
home depot or lowes in 8ft and my shop was in transition so it was a
quick solution. I'll make real shelves at some point.


If they aren't sagging, use them, they're already cut.
A couple coats of B-I-N and the same white you used on the best and
they'll be perfect.


The eliptical
arch matches the arch I built into an opening through the wall to my
kitchen and also added it to the fireplace surround in the same
room.

Hmmm is there any other way I can hijack this thread to talk more
about me?


Yeah, reeeeally! :-p


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

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On 2/14/13 6:09 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/14/2013 2:21 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

You can see I did it here (kinda hard to see how it ties
in.)http://www.sonomaproducts.com/images...ery/built1.jpg
I didn't use a toe kick and I think it would look better had I done so
as you did.


Well done, as usual.

Especially like the arch bumpout and the cabinet backs ... classy.


Yes, I love that beaded look.
Now I know what to use on the backs of the next ones I do. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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Very nice work, Mike. The designs look nice and clean as well as
the finishing. Your design?

What did you use to finish the arched cabinet?

Robert
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On Friday, February 15, 2013 12:42:27 AM UTC-8, wrote:
Very nice work, Mike. The designs look nice and clean as well as

the finishing. Your design?



What did you use to finish the arched cabinet?



Robert


Yes, my design. I did lots of web surfing to find design elements I wanted. It was my first major effort in Sketchup. I detailed out every piece so I could build them modular in the shop and be sure it would all piece together in the house. I had my buddy cut the arch piece on his CNC.

On the finish, I used BIN primer and sanded it out and did all the caulking.. Then I had a pro paint it because with my tests spraying laytex with my cheap HVLP were not up to the standards I wanted.

One key for me was I used the ply with MDF faces for all the boxes and mdf for the door flat panels and it really provides a nice super flat substrate for the painting.



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On 2/15/13 11:47 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Friday, February 15, 2013 12:42:27 AM UTC-8,
wrote:
Very nice work, Mike. The designs look nice and clean as well
as

the finishing. Your design?



What did you use to finish the arched cabinet?



Robert


Yes, my design. I did lots of web surfing to find design elements I
wanted. It was my first major effort in Sketchup. I detailed out
every piece so I could build them modular in the shop and be sure it
would all piece together in the house. I had my buddy cut the arch
piece on his CNC.

On the finish, I used BIN primer and sanded it out and did all the
caulking. Then I had a pro paint it because with my tests spraying
laytex with my cheap HVLP were not up to the standards I wanted.

One key for me was I used the ply with MDF faces for all the boxes
and mdf for the door flat panels and it really provides a nice super
flat substrate for the painting.


BIN and MDF is a match made in heaven.
A couple sanded coats of BIN on MDF edges can be buffed very smooth.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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BIN and MDF is a match made in heaven.

A couple sanded coats of BIN on MDF edges can be buffed very smooth.


Yes indeed. In my case (pun intended) the FF hides all edges of the boxes and for the deck I wrapped it with 2" of hard edge (poplar) but the BIN did fill\hide the seam and after painting you can't find it.
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-MIKE- wrote:

BIN and MDF is a match made in heaven.
A couple sanded coats of BIN on MDF edges can be buffed very smooth.


+1

What I use for all painted wainscoting. Profiles nicely, also.

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On 2/15/13 12:03 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:


BIN and MDF is a match made in heaven.

A couple sanded coats of BIN on MDF edges can be buffed very
smooth.


Yes indeed. In my case (pun intended) the FF hides all edges of the
boxes and for the deck I wrapped it with 2" of hard edge (poplar) but
the BIN did fill\hide the seam and after painting you can't find it.


I guess that might depend on the topcoat? Maybe not.
I find it's very hard to hide edge banding seems... after they've gone
through a seasonal change. I guess that also might depend on the area's
climate.

I suppose if the BIN is hard enough, it would crack with
expansion/contraction. Maybe a latex over top would stretch with the
wood? Just thinking out loud. Any answers?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

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I suppose if the BIN is hard enough, it would crack with

expansion/contraction. Maybe a latex over top would stretch with the

wood? Just thinking out loud. Any answers?



I've been through one full set of seasons in northern California since final paint. We don't get much change here so probably helps. No cracks for sure but not sure if it shows more or less at various humidities. Haven't looked to close though.


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On Feb 15, 11:23*am, -MIKE- wrote:

Ummm... I'm confused.
The pictures of the arched bookcase were from Sonoma dude, when he
hijacked my thread. *:-)


Well, that's what you get at 3 in the morning! Misfire!

Don't know how I got to the other project. Like this one, too. The
all white makes cabs/cases look very clean and modern.

But like Leon mentioned, how do you get to the top shelf?

Robert
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On Sat, 16 Feb 2013 15:58:03 -0600, -MIKE-
Speaking of which, on the left side, lower unit, just below the middle
shelf and just below the third from bottom shelf the back appears to be
lit up. Is there a opening at the back of the shelves to let light
shine through or is that just a reflection off the books that are laying
down?


Reflection. It was dusk and I had all kinds of lamps on to get some
light in there.


Speaking of lighting up cabinets and other things, Lee Valley Tools
has just started marketing a line of LED tape lighting.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Hardware...t=3,43629&ap=1
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On 2/16/2013 4:11 PM, Dave wrote:
On Sat, 16 Feb 2013 15:58:03 -0600, -MIKE-
Speaking of which, on the left side, lower unit, just below the middle
shelf and just below the third from bottom shelf the back appears to be
lit up. Is there a opening at the back of the shelves to let light
shine through or is that just a reflection off the books that are laying
down?


Reflection. It was dusk and I had all kinds of lamps on to get some
light in there.


Speaking of lighting up cabinets and other things, Lee Valley Tools
has just started marketing a line of LED tape lighting.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Hardware...t=3,43629&ap=1



Excellent! And finally affordable.


I have been looking at some under counter remote controlled LED units,
5 LED's per unit and battery operated. at Sam's Club. Inexpensive and
by GE but the price sounded too good to be true. Probably old
technology with poor performance.
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On Sat, 16 Feb 2013 16:25:12 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Hardware...t=3,43629&ap=1

Excellent! And finally affordable.


I guess that's open to interpretation. Between 12v power supply,
on/off switch, connectors, wire, optional dimmer and wireless remote,
I can see the price increasing dramatically. In fact, the LED lighting
is probably the cheapest part.

But, all the options are there for whatever application one has in
mind and I guess that's the important thing.
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On 2/16/2013 4:39 PM, Dave wrote:
On Sat, 16 Feb 2013 16:25:12 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Hardware...t=3,43629&ap=1

Excellent! And finally affordable.


I guess that's open to interpretation. Between 12v power supply,
on/off switch, connectors, wire, optional dimmer and wireless remote,
I can see the price increasing dramatically. In fact, the LED lighting
is probably the cheapest part.

But, all the options are there for whatever application one has in
mind and I guess that's the important thing.



Just a few years ago a remote switched run could have costed $5-6
hundred dollars. I think this is pretty reasonable. Any way thankss
for bringing this to my attention.
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"Leon" wrote:

Just a few years ago a remote switched run could have costed $5-6
hundred dollars. I think this is pretty reasonable. Any way
thankss for bringing this to my attention.

--------------------------------------------
SFWIW, recently saw a ceiling fan installation that used a remote to
start/stop the fan and in addition, turn on/off the ceiling light.

This was an installation in a condo that was in the midst of an
upgrade,
so assume the fan was not the latest/greatest, but I could see some
possibilities, especially as an add on where there was no existing
power in an existing ceiling.

Lew






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On Sat, 16 Feb 2013 16:24:00 -0800, "Lew Hodgett"
SFWIW, recently saw a ceiling fan installation that used a remote to
start/stop the fan and in addition, turn on/off the ceiling light.

This was an installation in a condo that was in the midst of an
upgrade,
so assume the fan was not the latest/greatest, but I could see some
possibilities, especially as an add on where there was no existing
power in an existing ceiling.


That technology has been around for quite awhile.

http://www.x10.com/home_automation/r...ht_switch.html
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"Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Leon" wrote:

Just a few years ago a remote switched run could have costed $5-6
hundred dollars. I think this is pretty reasonable. Any way
thankss for bringing this to my attention.

--------------------------------------------
SFWIW, recently saw a ceiling fan installation that used a remote to
start/stop the fan and in addition, turn on/off the ceiling light.

This was an installation in a condo that was in the midst of an
upgrade,
so assume the fan was not the latest/greatest, but I could see some
possibilities, especially as an add on where there was no existing
power in an existing ceiling.

Lew


I wanted one of those about 8 years ago when I replaced our original to the
house living room fan that I added a light and pull chain to 30 years ago.
The remote would have made operation much easier. My wife vetoed as we had
enough remotes. Apparently you can have too many and I was not aware of
this.

So if the fan was off and so too was the light and you wanted one on but
not the other it typically went like this.. Walk oner to turn on one or the
other. Nothing, walk over to the single control wall switch and turn it
on.. The fan or the light now comes on but not the one that you wanted on.
Walk back to the fan and pull two chains to turn the one you wanted on and
to turn the one you did not want on back off.

With the remote leave the wall switch on, don't get up to remotely turn on
or off what you want..

As for the LED lights and remote dimmer, we want to add under cabinet
lighting in our relatively new kitchen. I figure a total of 12' of
lighting in two areas. We don't want the wiring to show, and want all the
lights to come on with a single switch. I figure transformers and remote
receivers to on top of the cabinets behind the crown. The remote
transmitter goes anywhere, no wires. I figure between $150 ~$200..

Three years ago we added two dimable five LED manual lamp units to the
light bridge over our bed. Fantastic white to warm, not blue, reading
light. $172.00.

We should be able to get about 100 dimable LED under cabinet lights
remotely controlled for about the same amount.
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Leon wrote in
:


I wanted one of those about 8 years ago when I replaced our original
to the house living room fan that I added a light and pull chain to 30
years ago. The remote would have made operation much easier. My wife
vetoed as we had enough remotes. Apparently you can have too many and
I was not aware of this.

*snip*

That's where a good multifunction and learning remote comes in. Mine has
up to 10 functions, but if your remote only has two or three buttons
there's no reason you can't "teach" it codes from different devices.

When asked what that remote controls, I just say "everything". It's true,
but the looks I get on those rare occasions are neat.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
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On 2/17/2013 12:29 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Leon wrote in
:


I wanted one of those about 8 years ago when I replaced our original
to the house living room fan that I added a light and pull chain to 30
years ago. The remote would have made operation much easier. My wife
vetoed as we had enough remotes. Apparently you can have too many and
I was not aware of this.

*snip*

That's where a good multifunction and learning remote comes in. Mine has
up to 10 functions, but if your remote only has two or three buttons
there's no reason you can't "teach" it codes from different devices.

When asked what that remote controls, I just say "everything". It's true,
but the looks I get on those rare occasions are neat.

Puckdropper


Been there and done that, have an old Yamaha remote that does a lot, a
Universal Brand that does a lot but it seems that there is always a
single often used function that does not transfer well to the smart
remote. Like changing the sound field that uses 10 buttons on the
Yamaha remote or oddly enough the input for the TV that does not
transfer well. So I still have each of the standard remotes on hand as
back up.
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Lew Hodgett wrote:
--------------------------------------------
SFWIW, recently saw a ceiling fan installation that used a remote
to
start/stop the fan and in addition, turn on/off the ceiling light.

This was an installation in a condo that was in the midst of an
upgrade,
so assume the fan was not the latest/greatest, but I could see some
possibilities, especially as an add on where there was no existing
power in an existing ceiling.

Lew


-------------------------------------------------------
"Leon" wrote:

I wanted one of those about 8 years ago when I replaced our original
to the
house living room fan that I added a light and pull chain to 30
years ago.
The remote would have made operation much easier. My wife vetoed as
we had
enough remotes. Apparently you can have too many and I was not aware
of
this.

--------------------------------------------------------
The unit I was describing consisted of a remote and a holster to hold
it.

The holster gets mounted on a wall at switch level.

You operate it just like a hard wired switch, so there is really
NO remote function in the normal sense.

Lew



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