I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original
door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
had begun to disintegrat over the years.

Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is
there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and paint?

I have something called Thompson's WaterSeal, but don't know if I
should use that before I prime with an Enamel Undercoater Primer/
Sealer (by BEHR) I have.

Any recommendations?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

"Searcher7" wrote in message
...
I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original
door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
had begun to disintegrat over the years.

Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is
there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and paint?

I have something called Thompson's WaterSeal, but don't know if I
should use that before I prime with an Enamel Undercoater Primer/
Sealer (by BEHR) I have.

Any recommendations?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Whatever you end up doing be sure to do the same thing to
both sides of the ply.
Art

On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 2:21:18 PM UTC-5, Artemus wrote:
"Searcher7" wrote in message

...

I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original

door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends

had begun to disintegrat over the years.



Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is

there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and paint?



I have something called Thompson's WaterSeal, but don't know if I

should use that before I prime with an Enamel Undercoater Primer/

Sealer (by BEHR) I have.



Any recommendations?



Thanks.



Darren Harris

Staten Island, New York.



Whatever you end up doing be sure to do the same thing to

both sides of the ply.

Art

Yes. Not to mention the edges.

I just don't like the idea of having to go out and buy something else when I already have a sealer and a primer/sealer.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

""Searcher7" wrote:

I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original
door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
had begun to disintegrat over the years.

Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is
there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and
paint?
-------------------------------------------------------
Swing already put this to bed.

Dewaxed shellac.

Lew

On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 3:36:58 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
""Searcher7" wrote:



I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original

door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends

had begun to disintegrat over the years.



Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is

there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and

paint?

-------------------------------------------------------

Swing already put this to bed.



Dewaxed shellac.

I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and painted black after I seal it.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

wrote:
On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 3:36:58 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
""Searcher7" wrote:



I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The
original

door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends

had begun to disintegrat over the years.



Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is

there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and

paint?

-------------------------------------------------------

Swing already put this to bed.



Dewaxed shellac.

I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and
painted black after I seal it.


Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.

--

-Mike-

On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 3:52:42 PM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:
wrote:

On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 3:36:58 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:

""Searcher7" wrote:







I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The

original



door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends



had begun to disintegrat over the years.







Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is



there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and



paint?



-------------------------------------------------------



Swing already put this to bed.







Dewaxed shellac.



I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and

painted black after I seal it.





Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.

Thanks a lot.

So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't be needed.

Now my biggest issue is how to get the barcode sticker off it so I can get started.

Thanks again.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

On 12/5/12 3:04 PM, wrote:
Dewaxed shellac.



I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and

painted black after I seal it.





Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.

Thanks a lot.

So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't be needed.


I may be wrong but I don't think that stuff was ever meant to be painted
over.
IIRC, it's some kind of penetrating oil that *doesn't* dissolve or
evaporate. *That's* how it keeps water out.
For your interior paint application, that is probably the worst thing
you could use.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 4:34:16 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 12/5/12 3:04 PM, wrote:

Dewaxed shellac.







I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and



painted black after I seal it.











Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.



Thanks a lot.



So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't be needed.





I may be wrong but I don't think that stuff was ever meant to be painted

over.

IIRC, it's some kind of penetrating oil that *doesn't* dissolve or

evaporate. *That's* how it keeps water out.

For your interior paint application, that is probably the worst thing

you could use.

Then I'll stick with just the primer/sealer. I just wish the glue in the Home Depot plywood was as strong as the glue used on the barcode sticker.

I'm trying not to break through the veneer taking it off with a chisel because I'm not sure that "Goof Off" will soak into the wood and effect the primer's performance when I apply it afterwards.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

"Searcher7" wrote:

I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The
original

door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends

had begun to disintegrat over the years.

Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp,
is

there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and

paint?
-------------------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

Swing already put this to bed.

Dewaxed shellac.
----------------------------------------------------
"Searcher7" wrote:

I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and
painted black after I seal it.
-------------------------------------------
Clear or painted surface has NOTHING to do with sealing the surface.

You wanted a sealer which is what dewaxed shellac does and it also
serves as a primer for the raw materials.

Lew

On 12/5/2012 2:34 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 12/5/12 3:04 PM, wrote:
Dewaxed shellac.



I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and

painted black after I seal it.





Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.

Thanks a lot.

So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't be
needed.


I may be wrong but I don't think that stuff was ever meant to be painted
over.
IIRC, it's some kind of penetrating oil that *doesn't* dissolve or
evaporate. *That's* how it keeps water out.
For your interior paint application, that is probably the worst thing
you could use.



the msds for thompson's waterseal is pretty short. mostly some light
hydrocarbons (which will evaporate pretty quickly) with a little wax
thrown in.

http://www.tompkins-co.org/msds/m2805.pdf

% by WT CAS No. INGREDIENT UNITS VAPOR PRESSURE
7 64742-88-7 Mineral Spirits
29 64742-48-9 Hydrotreated Heavy Petroleum Naphtha
29 64742-47-8 Light Aliphatic Hydrocarbon
16 8012-95-1 Paraffin Oil
2 25550-14-5 Ethyltoluene
0.1 91-20-3 Naphthalene

i don't think you want to paint over this.

On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 5:31:01 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Searcher7" wrote:



I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The

original



door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends



had begun to disintegrat over the years.



Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp,

is



there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and



paint?

-------------------------------------------------------

Lew Hodgett wrote:



Swing already put this to bed.



Dewaxed shellac.

----------------------------------------------------

"Searcher7" wrote:



I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and

painted black after I seal it.

-------------------------------------------

Clear or painted surface has NOTHING to do with sealing the surface.



You wanted a sealer which is what dewaxed shellac does and it also

serves as a primer for the raw materials.

I'm assuming you are saying that the sealer/primer I already have is not good enough, correct? And that Zinsser Bullseye® SealCoat™ can be painted over?

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

wrote:


Now my biggest issue is how to get the barcode sticker off it so I
can get started.


Scrape it off as best as you can with a fingernail and then use cigarette
lighter fluid to remove any remaining adheasive.

--

-Mike-

Lew Hodgett wrote:

You wanted a sealer which is what dewaxed shellac does and it also

serves as a primer for the raw materials.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Searcher7" wrote:

I'm assuming you are saying that the sealer/primer I already have is
not good enough, correct? And that Zinsser Bullseye® SealCoat™ can be
painted over?
----------------------------------------------------------
You asked for a sealer for the plywood recommendation.

That's what you got.

Never worked with the stuff you have so can't comment about
it's quality.

Zinsser Bullseye® SealCoat™is designed as a sealer
that you can paint over.

It is what I would use.

Have fun.

Lew

On 12/5/12 4:19 PM, wrote:
I just wish the glue in the Home Depot plywood was as strong as the glue used on the barcode sticker.


Yep. Pet peeve of mine, as well.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 12/5/12 4:36 PM, chaniarts wrote:
On 12/5/2012 2:34 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 12/5/12 3:04 PM, wrote:
Dewaxed shellac.



I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and

painted black after I seal it.





Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.

Thanks a lot.

So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't be
needed.


I may be wrong but I don't think that stuff was ever meant to be painted
over.
IIRC, it's some kind of penetrating oil that *doesn't* dissolve or
evaporate. *That's* how it keeps water out.
For your interior paint application, that is probably the worst thing
you could use.



the msds for thompson's waterseal is pretty short. mostly some light
hydrocarbons (which will evaporate pretty quickly) with a little wax
thrown in.

http://www.tompkins-co.org/msds/m2805.pdf

% by WT CAS No. INGREDIENT UNITS VAPOR PRESSURE
7 64742-88-7 Mineral Spirits
29 64742-48-9 Hydrotreated Heavy Petroleum Naphtha
29 64742-47-8 Light Aliphatic Hydrocarbon
16 8012-95-1 Paraffin Oil
2 25550-14-5 Ethyltoluene
0.1 91-20-3 Naphthalene



i don't think you want to paint over this.


which is my only point.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

wrote in message
...

Now my biggest issue is how to get the barcode sticker off it so I can get started.

Thanks again.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Heat it with a heat gun and it will easily peel off with a fingernail.
Scrape what adhesive you can and get the remaining off with
acetone or de-solv-it.
Art

Snip



I'm trying not to break through the veneer taking it off with a chisel
because I'm not sure that "Goof Off" will soak into the wood and effect the
primer's performance when I apply it afterwards.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
Warm it slightly with a hair dryer and it will peel off easy. Then clean the
remaining sticky off with lacquer thinner. WW

On Wed, 05 Dec 2012 15:36:46 -0700, chaniarts
wrote:

On 12/5/2012 2:34 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 12/5/12 3:04 PM, wrote:
Dewaxed shellac.



I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and

painted black after I seal it.





Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.

Thanks a lot.

So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't be
needed.


I may be wrong but I don't think that stuff was ever meant to be painted
over.
IIRC, it's some kind of penetrating oil that *doesn't* dissolve or
evaporate. *That's* how it keeps water out.
For your interior paint application, that is probably the worst thing
you could use.



the msds for thompson's waterseal is pretty short. mostly some light
hydrocarbons (which will evaporate pretty quickly) with a little wax
thrown in.

http://www.tompkins-co.org/msds/m2805.pdf

% by WT CAS No. INGREDIENT UNITS VAPOR PRESSURE
7 64742-88-7 Mineral Spirits
29 64742-48-9 Hydrotreated Heavy Petroleum Naphtha
29 64742-47-8 Light Aliphatic Hydrocarbon
16 8012-95-1 Paraffin Oil
2 25550-14-5 Ethyltoluene
0.1 91-20-3 Naphthalene

i don't think you want to paint over this.

I used it once and it was a waste of money. It might hold up in
Arizona but it's worthless in the NW.

Mike M

wrote:
On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 4:34:16 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 12/5/12 3:04 PM, wrote:

Dewaxed shellac.







I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and



painted black after I seal it.











Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.



Thanks a lot.



So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't
be needed.





I may be wrong but I don't think that stuff was ever meant to be
painted

over.

IIRC, it's some kind of penetrating oil that *doesn't* dissolve or

evaporate. *That's* how it keeps water out.

For your interior paint application, that is probably the worst thing

you could use.

Then I'll stick with just the primer/sealer. I just wish the glue in
the Home Depot plywood was as strong as the glue used on the barcode
sticker.

I'm trying not to break through the veneer taking it off with a
chisel because I'm not sure that "Goof Off" will soak into the wood
and effect the primer's performance when I apply it afterwards.


Try naptha (lighter fluid). If the paper on the sticker is slick, sand off
the slick then use naptha.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"Lew Hodgett" writes:

"Searcher7" wrote:

I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and
painted black after I seal it.
-------------------------------------------
Clear or painted surface has NOTHING to do with sealing the surface.

You wanted a sealer which is what dewaxed shellac does and it also
serves as a primer for the raw materials.


In fact, shellac is a component in KILZ primer.

scott

"Lew Hodgett" writes:

Lew Hodgett wrote:

You wanted a sealer which is what dewaxed shellac does and it also

serves as a primer for the raw materials.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Searcher7" wrote:

I'm assuming you are saying that the sealer/primer I already have is
not good enough, correct? And that Zinsser Bullseye® SealCoat™ can be
painted over?
----------------------------------------------------------
You asked for a sealer for the plywood recommendation.

That's what you got.

Never worked with the stuff you have so can't comment about
it's quality.

Zinsser Bullseye® SealCoat™is designed as a sealer
that you can paint over.

Zinsser Bullseye SealCoat is 100% was-free shellac in denatured alcohol.

http://rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=246

scott

On Dec 5, 5:36*pm, chaniarts wrote:
On 12/5/2012 2:34 PM, -MIKE- wrote:









On 12/5/12 3:04 PM, wrote:
Dewaxed shellac.

I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and

painted black after I seal it.

Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.

Thanks a lot.

So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't be
needed.

I may be wrong but I don't think that stuff was ever meant to be painted
over.
IIRC, it's some kind of penetrating oil that *doesn't* dissolve or
evaporate. **That's* how it keeps water out.
For your interior paint application, that is probably the worst thing
you could use.

the msds for thompson's waterseal is pretty short. mostly some light
hydrocarbons (which will evaporate pretty quickly) with a little wax
thrown in.

http://www.tompkins-co.org/msds/m2805.pdf

% by WT CAS No. INGREDIENT UNITS VAPOR PRESSURE
7 64742-88-7 Mineral Spirits
29 64742-48-9 Hydrotreated Heavy Petroleum Naphtha
29 64742-47-8 Light Aliphatic Hydrocarbon
16 8012-95-1 Paraffin Oil
2 25550-14-5 Ethyltoluene
0.1 91-20-3 Naphthalene

i don't think you want to paint over this.

Most are solvents that will dry off in short enough order.
The paraffin oil, though, is the same as mineral / baby
oil, which will prevent adhesion of any finish save shellac.

On Dec 5, 5:51*pm, wrote:
On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 5:31:01 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Searcher7" wrote:

* I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The

original

* door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends

had begun to disintegrat over the years.

* Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp,

is

there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and

paint?

-------------------------------------------------------

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Swing already put this to bed.

Dewaxed shellac.

----------------------------------------------------

"Searcher7" wrote:

I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and

painted black after I seal it.

-------------------------------------------

Clear or painted surface has NOTHING to do with sealing the surface.

You wanted a sealer which is what dewaxed shellac does and it also

serves as a primer for the raw materials.

I'm assuming you are saying that the sealer/primer I already have is not good enough, correct? And that Zinsser Bullseye® SealCoat™ can be painted over?

Dewaxed shellac is the best sealer made, can be painted over
with anything.

On Tue, 4 Dec 2012 15:58:20 -0800 (PST), Searcher7
wrote:

I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original
door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends
had begun to disintegrat over the years.

Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is
there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and paint?

I have something called Thompson's WaterSeal, but don't know if I
should use that before I prime with an Enamel Undercoater Primer/
Sealer (by BEHR) I have.

Any recommendations?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

To fill in some blanks in the discussion, I'll add that shellac makes
an excellent barrier to water vapor. In other words, it can slow but
not prevent warping due to humidity changes.

There are no guarantees on that no matter what you do. One thing that
helps is using better plywood but these days it can be hard to tell
just what you are getting. I am pretty sure the better plywood won't
be found at Home Depot or Lowes.

On Wed, 5 Dec 2012 13:04:26 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 3:52:42 PM UTC-5, Mike Marlow wrote:
wrote:

On Wednesday, December 5, 2012 3:36:58 PM UTC-5, Lew Hodgett wrote:

""Searcher7" wrote:







I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The

original



door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends



had begun to disintegrat over the years.







Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is



there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and



paint?



-------------------------------------------------------



Swing already put this to bed.







Dewaxed shellac.



I'm not going for a clear finish. The door has to be primed and

painted black after I seal it.





Your primer and paint will seal it Darren.

Thanks a lot.

So I'm assuming using the Thompson's WaterSeal beforehand wouldn't be needed.

Do *NOT* use Thompson's WaterSeal. It contains paraffin and could
easily prevent the paint from sticking. In fact, don't use Thompson's
on anything. It's a waste of time.


Now my biggest issue is how to get the barcode sticker off it so I can get started.

Naptha or one of the goo-gone sorts of products.

On Friday, December 7, 2012 12:29:26 PM UTC-5, Jim Weisgram wrote:
On Tue, 4 Dec 2012 15:58:20 -0800 (PST), Searcher7

wrote:



I just finished making a plywood door for a game cabinet The original

door had been made of particle board, but the 3/8" lip on both ends

had begun to disintegrat over the years.



Since the disadvantage in using plywood is that it tends to warp, is

there a good way to seal it to prevent this before I prime and paint?



I have something called Thompson's WaterSeal, but don't know if I

should use that before I prime with an Enamel Undercoater Primer/

Sealer (by BEHR) I have.



Any recommendations?



Thanks.



Darren Harris

Staten Island, New York.



To fill in some blanks in the discussion, I'll add that shellac makes

an excellent barrier to water vapor. In other words, it can slow but

not prevent warping due to humidity changes.



There are no guarantees on that no matter what you do. One thing that

helps is using better plywood but these days it can be hard to tell

just what you are getting. I am pretty sure the better plywood won't

be found at Home Depot or Lowes.

Ok, so let me get this straight.

Thompson's WaterSeal is a waste of money. Zinsser Bullseye SealCoat works well. And no one here has tried BEHR Enamel Undercoater Primer/Sealer #75.

Thanks for all the ideas on removing the bar-code sticker. I actually wet a cloth and laid it on the sticker for a couple minutes and it scratched off easily after that. :-)

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.