On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 22:05:21 -0700, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Yes I have used Forests. Mostly loved them. I get pretty much the same
results from full kerf Freuds but I do recall some fricking glass like
smooth cross cuts with a Woodworker cross cut (maybe 60 tooth) blade.

I've never owned a Forrest blade but a year or two back I bought Freud's
then new "Fusion" blade. I don't see how any other blade could cut any
smoother. Can't yet testify to longevity - as a hobby woodworker it
takes me a while to dull a blade.

My only quibble is that it's ATB and not ATBR.

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:
I'm just a hobbyist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very much
budget constrained.

For 10+ years I've been running with:

Freud 10" Carbide Finishing 40 Tooth
Advanced Anti-Kickback Design

and haven't done too badly.

Rockler currently has:
Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut ... $40 #47943

How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades make?
Speculation is encouraged.


About the same difference as the difference between an occasionally-used
10-year old razor blade and a new one.

On 10/12/2012 11:28 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 22:05:21 -0700, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

Yes I have used Forests. Mostly loved them. I get pretty much the same
results from full kerf Freuds but I do recall some fricking glass like
smooth cross cuts with a Woodworker cross cut (maybe 60 tooth) blade.

I've never owned a Forrest blade but a year or two back I bought Freud's
then new "Fusion" blade. I don't see how any other blade could cut any
smoother. Can't yet testify to longevity - as a hobby woodworker it
takes me a while to dull a blade.

I have heard similar comments about HF blades. The Forrest is good for
tens of thousands of cuts with the same quality of cut.


My only quibble is that it's ATB and not ATBR.


I had 2 WWII blades, got another about 2 years ago and had one of the
older ones ground to cut flat bottom groves. Perhaps you could have it
reground.

On 10/12/2012 12:42 AM, Dave wrote:

Given (reasonable) aspirations for a workshop, I'd want a shop big
enough to house several machines the size of a decent Felder table
saw. It would have to be capable of handing entire 8' sheets of ply
and completely outfitted with a power feeder.

Punch a couple of numbers into a computer screen and then watch it
happen.

This one would do.
http://www.format-4.ca/products_feat...0&region=ca-us



While attending the Atlanta IWF a few years back, I got to feel one of
those saws. The slider moves with one finger and very little pressure.

I also got to touch a big ass Felder(similar saw)
http://www.felderusa.com/us-us/products/table-saws.html
and of course these big boys:
http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com/tablesaws/4saw.htm

On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 23:54:40 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 10/11/2012 11:41 PM, Mike M wrote:
On Thu, 11 Oct 2012 13:53:11 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote:

On Thursday, October 11, 2012 12:51:21 PM UTC-7, Leon wrote:
On 10/11/2012 1:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote: On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood. To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own. The trick to not changing blades is to use a combination or general purpose blade. I would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut blade. Now if you ha
ve
2 table saw, that might change considerations.

IMNSHO combo blades are only approriate for basic cabinet work or other similar (good enough is OK) jobs and not the typical furniture pieces I am usually building. And even then only because the cabinet guys usually oversize their face frame rips and clean up the edges in bundles ganged up in the planer.

I have one I throw on when making plywood boxes, etc. for around the shop or sets and stage furniture for my daughters school, etc.

Out of curiousity have you ever tried a WWII Blade. Just curious if
you've felt you were doing better with the other blades.

Mike M



IIRC he mentioned using a Forrest blade and IIRC Forrest does not make a
rip blade. So my "guess" is that he has used a Forrest General cut
blade, maybe not. If he was not happy with the results of a WWII
"something" was not right.

I found Deb's recent results interesting. (No defined increase in
quality of cuts over a cheaper blade, at least initially. But we all
know that cheaper blades don't last as long.)

--
Energy and persistence alter all things.
--Benjamin Franklin

Sounds like a good deal, provided they have the tooth geometry for the
material you plan to work with. You can always find out by visiting their
web site. They have a host of information to guide you to the right blade
for the job. I love Freud blades. I've never had one that didn't do exactly
what it was designed for, and provide better than expected results.

On 10/13/2012 8:02 AM, wrote:
Sounds like a good deal, provided they have the tooth geometry for the
material you plan to work with. You can always find out by visiting their
web site. They have a host of information to guide you to the right blade
for the job. I love Freud blades. I've never had one that didn't do exactly
what it was designed for, and provide better than expected results.

I have a Freud 10" dado set I hate. Partly because it is 10" and not 7"
like my old set. It's way harder to set up than my old set, and doesn't
cut any better. Only thing I like about it is it's carbide.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On Sat, 13 Oct 2012 09:04:16 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 10/13/2012 8:02 AM, wrote:
Sounds like a good deal, provided they have the tooth geometry for the
material you plan to work with. You can always find out by visiting their
web site. They have a host of information to guide you to the right blade
for the job. I love Freud blades. I've never had one that didn't do exactly
what it was designed for, and provide better than expected results.

I have a Freud 10" dado set I hate. Partly because it is 10" and not 7"
like my old set. It's way harder to set up than my old set, and doesn't
cut any better. Only thing I like about it is it's carbide.

I splurged and got there adjustable set, so far very happy with it.

Mike M

On 10/13/2012 12:57 PM, Mike M wrote:
On Sat, 13 Oct 2012 09:04:16 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 10/13/2012 8:02 AM, wrote:
Sounds like a good deal, provided they have the tooth geometry for the
material you plan to work with. You can always find out by visiting their
web site. They have a host of information to guide you to the right blade
for the job. I love Freud blades. I've never had one that didn't do exactly
what it was designed for, and provide better than expected results.

I have a Freud 10" dado set I hate. Partly because it is 10" and not 7"
like my old set. It's way harder to set up than my old set, and doesn't
cut any better. Only thing I like about it is it's carbide.

I splurged and got there adjustable set, so far very happy with it.

I've been using the dial-a-width 8" Freud set for a few years, and
literally thousands of linear feet of dadoes, and could not be happier
with the set. My beloved Amana dado stack and shims were put away and
have not seen the light of day since.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop