On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I turn it
off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been increasing
problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC stopped working
altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose".
It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever
been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with
the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
microswitches on the dustgates?

Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 8/25/2012 1:55 PM, Han wrote:
On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I turn it
off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been increasing
problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC stopped working
altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose".
It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever
been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with
the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
microswitches on the dustgates?

Absolutely not!



Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!



You might consider ordering a universal remote control for total control
and bypassing the switch on the DC altogether. Have the motor plug
directly into the remote.

On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han wrote:

On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I turn it
off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been increasing
problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC stopped working
altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose".
It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever
been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with
the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
microswitches on the dustgates?

Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical problem. More
likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an earlier death by *using* the
remote switch.

Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...

I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF stuff is, I
*really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my ass.

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!

When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have a Penn State
DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a half-dozen times. I use
one of their RF remotes, instead (with a couple of transmitters). The power
switch is left ON all the time.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 8/25/2012 1:55 PM, Han wrote:
On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I
turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been
increasing problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC
stopped working altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC
motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note
that the switch has hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off.
Would I have damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or
with my previous system with relay and microswitches on the
dustgates?

Absolutely not!

Thanks! I didn't think so either ...

Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this
...

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!

You might consider ordering a universal remote control for total
control and bypassing the switch on the DC altogether. Have the motor
plug directly into the remote.

The Shop Fox is I think pretty universal. It has an outlet that is
governed by it, so I could open the switch and bypass it altogether? I
like that idea.

Another question: There seems to be a large capacitor or so on the
motor. Do I run a risk opening the switch, even if I have had it
unplugged for a few hours?

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

" wrote in
:

On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han wrote:

On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I
turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been
increasing problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC
stopped working altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC
motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note
that the switch has hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off.
Would I have damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with
my previous system with relay and microswitches on the dustgates?

Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical problem.
More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an earlier death by
*using* the remote switch.

Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...

I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF stuff
is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my ass.

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!

When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have a
Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a
half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a
couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the time.

Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon suggested.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 25 Aug 2012 19:36:45 GMT, Han wrote:

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
m:

On 8/25/2012 1:55 PM, Han wrote:
On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I
turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been
increasing problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC
stopped working altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC
motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note
that the switch has hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off.
Would I have damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or
with my previous system with relay and microswitches on the
dustgates?

Absolutely not!

Thanks! I didn't think so either ...

Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this
...

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!

You might consider ordering a universal remote control for total
control and bypassing the switch on the DC altogether. Have the motor
plug directly into the remote.

The Shop Fox is I think pretty universal. It has an outlet that is
governed by it, so I could open the switch and bypass it altogether? I
like that idea.

You don't want to open the switch. You want to *short* it. ;-)

Another question: There seems to be a large capacitor or so on the
motor. Do I run a risk opening the switch, even if I have had it
unplugged for a few hours?

As long as you unplug the unit first, no. ;-) There is no energy stored (for
any time) in that capacitor. It's too small to do any damage, anyway.

" wrote in
:

On 25 Aug 2012 19:36:45 GMT, Han wrote:

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
om:

On 8/25/2012 1:55 PM, Han wrote:
On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with
Wynn canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can
precollector. I turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately
there have been increasing problems with turning the DC on and off,
and today, the DC stopped working altogether. One problem is that
the switch on the DC motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on and
off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever been used to
turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with the
Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
microswitches on the dustgates?

Absolutely not!

Thanks! I didn't think so either ...

Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix
this ...

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!

You might consider ordering a universal remote control for total
control and bypassing the switch on the DC altogether. Have the
motor plug directly into the remote.

The Shop Fox is I think pretty universal. It has an outlet that is
governed by it, so I could open the switch and bypass it altogether?
I like that idea.

You don't want to open the switch. You want to *short* it. ;-)

Another question: There seems to be a large capacitor or so on the
motor. Do I run a risk opening the switch, even if I have had it
unplugged for a few hours?

As long as you unplug the unit first, no. ;-) There is no energy
stored (for any time) in that capacitor. It's too small to do any
damage, anyway.

Thanks, more in another reply, pls, Keith

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han wrote in news:XnsA0BA9F81B73BEikkezelf@
8.17.249.100:

" wrote in
:

On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han wrote:

On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I
turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been
increasing problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC
stopped working altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC
motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note
that the switch has hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off.
Would I have damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with
my previous system with relay and microswitches on the dustgates?

Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical problem.
More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an earlier death by
*using* the remote switch.

Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...

I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF stuff
is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my ass.

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!

When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have a
Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a
half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a
couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the time.

Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon suggested.

I opened the switch. It's a double pole, single throw switch and one of
the contacts was corroded with a "pile" of stuff on it, so the switch
wouldn't stay closed. Must have been arcing every time it got power. My
electrician friend said to just wirenut the wires and cover the opening.
(I am using a remote switch gadget to turn the DC on and off)

More later ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 25 Aug 2012 20:51:12 GMT, Han wrote:

Han wrote in news:XnsA0BA9F81B73BEikkezelf@
8.17.249.100:

" wrote in
:

On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han wrote:

On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I
turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been
increasing problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC
stopped working altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC
motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note
that the switch has hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off.
Would I have damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with
my previous system with relay and microswitches on the dustgates?

Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical problem.
More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an earlier death by
*using* the remote switch.

Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...

I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF stuff
is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my ass.

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!

When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have a
Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a
half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a
couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the time.

Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon suggested.

I opened the switch. It's a double pole, single throw switch and one of
the contacts was corroded with a "pile" of stuff on it, so the switch
wouldn't stay closed. Must have been arcing every time it got power. My
electrician friend said to just wirenut the wires and cover the opening.
(I am using a remote switch gadget to turn the DC on and off)

Sounds like a plan. You might want to put a switch in the line (e.g. wall
switch) in case a mouse gets in the system when you're not there. I never
bothered but the DC is currently in my garage.

More later ...

Please.

Han wrote:
On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I turn it
off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been increasing
problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC stopped working
altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose".
It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever
been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with
the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
microswitches on the dustgates?

Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!

Did you test the Shop Fox? Mine died. Within the first week one of
the remotes died. I had to return the whole shebang to get a
replacement. Then After a few months the outlet plug on the Shop-Fox
melted! I got a better one from Grainger and wired it in. Worked
fine for a few months, then last week it just gave up the ghost.

Running a 1 hp delta dust collector.

--
G.W. Ross

Any problem can be solved with enough
dynamite! -Slappy Squirrel.

" wrote in
:

On 25 Aug 2012 20:51:12 GMT, Han wrote:

Han wrote in news:XnsA0BA9F81B73BEikkezelf@
8.17.249.100:

" wrote in
:

On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han wrote:

On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with
Wynn canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can
precollector. I turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately
there have been increasing problems with turning the DC on and off,
and today, the DC stopped working altogether. One problem is that
the switch on the DC motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on
and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever been used to
turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with the
Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
microswitches on the dustgates?

Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical
problem. More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an earlier
death by *using* the remote switch.

Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix
this ...

I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF
stuff is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my
ass.

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!

When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have a
Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a
half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a
couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the time.

Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon
suggested.

I opened the switch. It's a double pole, single throw switch and one
of the contacts was corroded with a "pile" of stuff on it, so the
switch wouldn't stay closed. Must have been arcing every time it got
power. My electrician friend said to just wirenut the wires and cover
the opening. (I am using a remote switch gadget to turn the DC on and
off)

Sounds like a plan. You might want to put a switch in the line (e.g.
wall switch) in case a mouse gets in the system when you're not there.
I never bothered but the DC is currently in my garage.

More later ...

Please.

OK. All done. Everything works. I took some pictures and will post
them later. I hear you about the switch. Will take a hard look at that,
especially since the DC is in the basement, right under the first floor
powderroom, whose toilettank once cracked ... New toilet is in place ...

I'm with GW Ross too. I had the Long Range "remote switch" with wires
and microswitches, but didn't like the continuing fiddling with the
dustgate and the microswitches. So I went with the Shop Fox RF (?)
remote system, but it isn't very well made and sometimes you have to keep
pressing the on or off switch. Since I still haven't finalized the shop
setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you guys what
kind of remote you use (if any).
Now I have to make dinner.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han wrote in
:

" wrote in
:

On 25 Aug 2012 20:51:12 GMT, Han wrote:

Han wrote in news:XnsA0BA9F81B73BEikkezelf@
8.17.249.100:

" wrote in
:

On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han wrote:

On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with
Wynn canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can
precollector. I turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote.
Lately there have been increasing problems with turning the DC on
and off, and today, the DC stopped working altogether. One
problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose". It
doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has
hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have
damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my
previous system with relay and microswitches on the dustgates?

Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical
problem. More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an earlier
death by *using* the remote switch.

Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix
this ...

I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF
stuff is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my
ass.

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!

When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have a
Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a
half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a
couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the
time.

Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon
suggested.

I opened the switch. It's a double pole, single throw switch and one
of the contacts was corroded with a "pile" of stuff on it, so the
switch wouldn't stay closed. Must have been arcing every time it got
power. My electrician friend said to just wirenut the wires and
cover the opening. (I am using a remote switch gadget to turn the DC
on and off)

Sounds like a plan. You might want to put a switch in the line (e.g.
wall switch) in case a mouse gets in the system when you're not
there.
I never bothered but the DC is currently in my garage.

More later ...

Please.

OK. All done. Everything works. I took some pictures and will post
them later. I hear you about the switch. Will take a hard look at
that, especially since the DC is in the basement, right under the
first floor powderroom, whose toilettank once cracked ... New toilet
is in place ...

I'm with GW Ross too. I had the Long Range "remote switch" with wires
and microswitches, but didn't like the continuing fiddling with the
dustgate and the microswitches. So I went with the Shop Fox RF (?)
remote system, but it isn't very well made and sometimes you have to
keep pressing the on or off switch. Since I still haven't finalized
the shop setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you
guys what kind of remote you use (if any).
Now I have to make dinner.

Pictures turned out bad, sorry.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

" wrote in
:
*snip*

I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF stuff
is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my ass.


*snip*

I think all the UL certification means is that their test unit did what the
package said it would and when it failed it didn't fail too dangerously.

Testing things until failure is a fun job, that's why so many of us do it
for free. *g*

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 8/25/2012 5:44 PM, Han wrote:

OK. All done. Everything works. I took some pictures and will post
them later. I hear you about the switch. Will take a hard look at that,
especially since the DC is in the basement, right under the first floor
powderroom, whose toilettank once cracked ... New toilet is in place ...

I'm with GW Ross too. I had the Long Range "remote switch" with wires
and microswitches, but didn't like the continuing fiddling with the
dustgate and the microswitches. So I went with the Shop Fox RF (?)
I have a vac with a Phil Thein type separator.. I plumbed all my small
tools. I prefer the wired system to blast gates. I kept finding myself
forgetting to open a gate and turning it on. Or forgetting to turn it on
after opening the gate. Now I just pull the gate open and it turns on.
I made my own switches.. using brass wipers and aluminum tape... works well.

I stopped using both my wireless remote control, and old style pull cord
in cieling after building the wired system.


remote system, but it isn't very well made and sometimes you have to keep
pressing the on or off switch. Since I still haven't finalized the shop
setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you guys what
kind of remote you use (if any).
Now I have to make dinner.

On 25 Aug 2012 21:44:04 GMT, Han wrote:

" wrote in
:

On 25 Aug 2012 20:51:12 GMT, Han wrote:

Han wrote in news:XnsA0BA9F81B73BEikkezelf@
8.17.249.100:

" wrote in
:

On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han wrote:

On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with
Wynn canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can
precollector. I turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately
there have been increasing problems with turning the DC on and off,
and today, the DC stopped working altogether. One problem is that
the switch on the DC motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on
and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever been used to
turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with the
Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
microswitches on the dustgates?

Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical
problem. More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an earlier
death by *using* the remote switch.

Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix
this ...

I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF
stuff is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my
ass.

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!

When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have a
Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a
half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a
couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the time.

Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon
suggested.

I opened the switch. It's a double pole, single throw switch and one
of the contacts was corroded with a "pile" of stuff on it, so the
switch wouldn't stay closed. Must have been arcing every time it got
power. My electrician friend said to just wirenut the wires and cover
the opening. (I am using a remote switch gadget to turn the DC on and
off)

Sounds like a plan. You might want to put a switch in the line (e.g.
wall switch) in case a mouse gets in the system when you're not there.
I never bothered but the DC is currently in my garage.

More later ...

Please.

OK. All done. Everything works. I took some pictures and will post
them later. I hear you about the switch. Will take a hard look at that,
especially since the DC is in the basement, right under the first floor
powderroom, whose toilettank once cracked ... New toilet is in place ...

I'm with GW Ross too. I had the Long Range "remote switch" with wires
and microswitches, but didn't like the continuing fiddling with the
dustgate and the microswitches. So I went with the Shop Fox RF (?)
remote system, but it isn't very well made and sometimes you have to keep
pressing the on or off switch. Since I still haven't finalized the shop
setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you guys what
kind of remote you use (if any).

I use the LongRanger, I think it is. Yep:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LR220-3.html

To go with the PSI 2HP DC w/1 um bags:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/DC2000B.html

and an iSwitch:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...1&site=ROCKLER

on my mini HF DC, that I've been using for my SCMS:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-mi...tor-94029.html


Now I have to make dinner.

On 26 Aug 2012 02:16:02 GMT, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

" wrote in
:
*snip*

I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF stuff
is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my ass.


*snip*

I think all the UL certification means is that their test unit did what the
package said it would and when it failed it didn't fail too dangerously.

I don't think it's tested at all.

Testing things until failure is a fun job, that's why so many of us do it
for free. *g*

I find designing things so they don't fail to be more rewarding. ;-) I don't
know if you've ever dealt with UL but they are a RPITA.

" wrote in
:

On 25 Aug 2012 21:44:04 GMT, Han wrote:

" wrote in
m:

On 25 Aug 2012 20:51:12 GMT, Han wrote:

Han wrote in news:XnsA0BA9F81B73BEikkezelf@
8.17.249.100:

" wrote in
:

On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han wrote:

On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with
Wynn canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can
precollector. I turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote.
Lately there have been increasing problems with turning the DC on
and off, and today, the DC stopped working altogether. One
problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose". It
doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has
hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have
damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my
previous system with relay and microswitches on the dustgates?

Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical
problem. More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an
earlier death by *using* the remote switch.

Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix
this ...

I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF
stuff is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my
ass.

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!

When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have
a Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a
half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a
couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the
time.

Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon
suggested.

I opened the switch. It's a double pole, single throw switch and
one of the contacts was corroded with a "pile" of stuff on it, so
the switch wouldn't stay closed. Must have been arcing every time
it got power. My electrician friend said to just wirenut the wires
and cover the opening. (I am using a remote switch gadget to turn
the DC on and off)

Sounds like a plan. You might want to put a switch in the line (e.g.
wall switch) in case a mouse gets in the system when you're not
there.
I never bothered but the DC is currently in my garage.

More later ...

Please.

OK. All done. Everything works. I took some pictures and will post
them later. I hear you about the switch. Will take a hard look at
that, especially since the DC is in the basement, right under the
first floor powderroom, whose toilettank once cracked ... New toilet
is in place ...

I'm with GW Ross too. I had the Long Range "remote switch" with wires
and microswitches, but didn't like the continuing fiddling with the
dustgate and the microswitches. So I went with the Shop Fox RF (?)
remote system, but it isn't very well made and sometimes you have to
keep pressing the on or off switch. Since I still haven't finalized
the shop setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you
guys what kind of remote you use (if any).

I use the LongRanger, I think it is. Yep:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LR220-3.html

To go with the PSI 2HP DC w/1 um bags:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/DC2000B.html

and an iSwitch:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...1&site=ROCKLER

on my mini HF DC, that I've been using for my SCMS:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-mi...tor-94029.html


Now I have to make dinner.

Pls see answer to "tiredofspam"

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote in
:

I prefer the wired system to blast gates. I kept finding myself
forgetting to open a gate and turning it on. Or forgetting to turn it
on after opening the gate. Now I just pull the gate open and it turns
on.

That is the ideal situation. I should go back to that, but at the moment
(semi)stationary tools are still not in their real final places. That
makes wiring a bit tough. I still have the wired Long Ranger (110V
version) to go back to.

I made my own switches.. using brass wipers and aluminum tape...
works well.

That is very interesting. How did you do that? If someone with limited
electrical experience can do it too, I might try. WOuld you care to
explain more, please?

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Sat, 25 Aug 2012 15:44:04 -0600, Han wrote
(in article ):

Since I still haven't finalized the shop
setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you guys what
kind of remote you use (if any).
Now I have to make dinner.


I've only ever used the 220V Long Ranger on my 2HP cyclone. Never any
problems except 'pocket dialing' on occasion when I have it clipped to my
pocket and bump into something.

-Bruce

On 8/25/2012 4:44 PM, Han wrote:
....

I'm with GW Ross too. I had the Long Range "remote switch" with wires
and microswitches, but didn't like the continuing fiddling with the
dustgate and the microswitches. So I went with the Shop Fox RF (?)
remote system, but it isn't very well made and sometimes you have to keep
pressing the on or off switch. Since I still haven't finalized the shop
setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you guys what
kind of remote you use (if any).
....

I just finished swapping out the initial hard switch on the DC for a
motor starter for the primary express purpose of adding an umbilical
cord w/ a remote control station can just carry around.

In doing so, I had enough room in the starter box to move the motor
start capacitor out of the little switch box on the machine and so still
have just a single box there w/ local start/stop plus the remote that
goes where ever I want it at the time...

The beauty of the magnetic starter is you can add an unlimited number of
remote control stations simply w/ the cost of a much cheaper low-current
wire run than any of the remotes and it's rock-solid reliable. Add a
time delay relay in the off side at the controller and you can have the
delayed-off as well.

Once I get the final location on the fixed equipment I'll add the DC and
their control stations as a unit operation. Here's link to a handy set
of logic diagrams to allow you to set up controls as desired...

http://www.eaton.com/ecm/idcplg?IdcService=GET_FILE&dID=223191

You can use either a 2-wire or run 3-wire control for the remote
station--see Fig 1 and 2 at the attached; I had an old start control on
hand so went 3-wire here.

The setup is shown in Fig 10 (p 9) for a single-phase starter; the
various remote options are shown in following pages using three-phase
but for single phase just toss out L3. (All the starters I have are
actually 3-phase because I found a whole passel of used Rockwell
starters cheap taken from a bunch of old Rockwell-Delta planers at an
auction so I bought a dozen of 'em for $20.)

The diagram for the setup here is Fig 14 (p 11) altho it'll look more
like Fig 18 (p 13) eventually when go to the multiple start from single
station(s)...

NB that the key to all this is the logic diagram -- "Start" are in
parallel; "Stop" in series.

--

Han wrote:

Pictures turned out bad, sorry.

Digital? One of the very nice things about digital is that one knows
immediately if they are unsatisfactory; if so, one can immediately do
whatever is necessary to retake them in a satisfactory manner.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 26 Aug 2012 13:24:13 GMT, Han wrote:

" wrote in
:

On 25 Aug 2012 21:44:04 GMT, Han wrote:

" wrote in
:

On 25 Aug 2012 20:51:12 GMT, Han wrote:

Han wrote in news:XnsA0BA9F81B73BEikkezelf@
8.17.249.100:

" wrote in
:

On 25 Aug 2012 18:55:25 GMT, Han wrote:

On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with
Wynn canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can
precollector. I turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote.
Lately there have been increasing problems with turning the DC on
and off, and today, the DC stopped working altogether. One
problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose". It
doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has
hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have
damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my
previous system with relay and microswitches on the dustgates?

Not likely. Since it's physically loose, it's a mechanical
problem. More likely it's HF junk and you saved it from an
earlier death by *using* the remote switch.

Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix
this ...

I'd order a replacement but from somewhere else. As bad as HF
stuff is, I *really* don't trust their electrical stuff. UL, my
ass.

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!

When you do replace the switch, don't use it again. ;-) I have
a Penn State DC. I don't think I've used the switch more than a
half-dozen times. I use one of their RF remotes, instead (with a
couple of transmitters). The power switch is left ON all the
time.

Thanks, Keith! I may just try bypassing the switch as Leon
suggested.

I opened the switch. It's a double pole, single throw switch and
one of the contacts was corroded with a "pile" of stuff on it, so
the switch wouldn't stay closed. Must have been arcing every time
it got power. My electrician friend said to just wirenut the wires
and cover the opening. (I am using a remote switch gadget to turn
the DC on and off)

Sounds like a plan. You might want to put a switch in the line (e.g.
wall switch) in case a mouse gets in the system when you're not
there.
I never bothered but the DC is currently in my garage.

More later ...

Please.

OK. All done. Everything works. I took some pictures and will post
them later. I hear you about the switch. Will take a hard look at
that, especially since the DC is in the basement, right under the
first floor powderroom, whose toilettank once cracked ... New toilet
is in place ...

I'm with GW Ross too. I had the Long Range "remote switch" with wires
and microswitches, but didn't like the continuing fiddling with the
dustgate and the microswitches. So I went with the Shop Fox RF (?)
remote system, but it isn't very well made and sometimes you have to
keep pressing the on or off switch. Since I still haven't finalized
the shop setup and the DC collection tubes, I'd like to hear from you
guys what kind of remote you use (if any).

I use the LongRanger, I think it is. Yep:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LR220-3.html

To go with the PSI 2HP DC w/1 um bags:
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/DC2000B.html

and an iSwitch:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...1&site=ROCKLER

on my mini HF DC, that I've been using for my SCMS:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-mi...tor-94029.html


Now I have to make dinner.

Pls see answer to "tiredofspam"

To keep noise to a minimum, I prefer the switch right where I'm working. I
glued magnets to the remotes and "stick" them to the cast iron on the tools
I'm currently working at. I don't have to go around and bend down to open the
blast gate every time I turn them on. I guess one could put both systems in
series.

The iSwitch works quite well for the SCMS (though the dust collection on the
SCMS only sorta sucks) because it comes on with the SCMS switch. Each are on
opposite 120V legs, so startup surge isn't a problem.

On 8/25/2012 2:58 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On 25 Aug 2012 19:36:45 GMT, Han wrote:

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 8/25/2012 1:55 PM, Han wrote:
On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I
turn it off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been
increasing problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC
stopped working altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC
motor is now "loose". It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note
that the switch has hardly ever been used to turn the DC on or off.
Would I have damaged the switch with the Shop Fox D3038 remote or
with my previous system with relay and microswitches on the
dustgates?

Absolutely not!

Thanks! I didn't think so either ...

Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a
replacement switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this
...

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!

You might consider ordering a universal remote control for total
control and bypassing the switch on the DC altogether. Have the motor
plug directly into the remote.

The Shop Fox is I think pretty universal. It has an outlet that is
governed by it, so I could open the switch and bypass it altogether? I
like that idea.

You don't want to open the switch. You want to *short* it. ;-)

Correct! "Cut" it on, LOL






Another question: There seems to be a large capacitor or so on the
motor. Do I run a risk opening the switch, even if I have had it
unplugged for a few hours?

As long as you unplug the unit first, no. ;-) There is no energy stored (for
any time) in that capacitor. It's too small to do any damage, anyway.


But to be on the safe side, take a picture of "yourself" before making
changes, another picture of yourself after making changes, post on line
for us to valuate. You may not be using good judgement after the
modification!. :~O

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:zq-
:

But to be on the safe side, take a picture of "yourself" before making
changes, another picture of yourself after making changes, post on line
for us to valuate. You may not be using good judgement after the
modification!. :~O

Too late for that. I have the pictures of what I did, though they are of
terrible quality. With regard to myself, I am finally, finally getting
noticeably better from my whooping cough. Still need cough medicine every
4 hrs, almost 4 weeks after antibiotics.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"dadiOH" wrote in :

Han wrote:

Pictures turned out bad, sorry.

Digital? One of the very nice things about digital is that one knows
immediately if they are unsatisfactory; if so, one can immediately do
whatever is necessary to retake them in a satisfactory manner.

Working in a cramped space. Some looked acceptable when I took them,
others I couldn't get better. Description of what I found and did:

The switch on the DC (Harbor freight 2 HP model 45378) looks very sturdy
from the outside. I unplugged the machine for a few hours before
proceeding, just in case the capacitor would ring my bell (deemed very
unlikely by Keith here).

2 screws hold the plate with the switch in place. Unscrewed them.

Lifted the plate and used the end of a screwdriver to release the clips
holding the switch. There were 4 wires to the switch, 2 black, 2 white.
I removed the wires from the switch. Don't know what the push-on
connectors are called.

I opened the switch, and looked at the contacts (it just fell apart when
you open it). One of the contacts had at least 1 mm of "crud" on it,
presumable from sparking when the switch closed, or power was applied (I
had the switch always on "on" and used a remote to apply power).

I threw the bad parts of the switch out. Then I wirenutted the black
wires together, as well as the white (to "bypass" the switch). I put the
defunct switch into the cover plate to fill the hole in the cover plate,
and screwed it back in place on top of the switch "box". Covered it with
duct tape to remind myself of the proceedings and prevent any flood
waters from getting in (lot of good that'll do in a real flood).

Everything works fine.
Thanks for you guys' advice and interest!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

" wrote in
:

To keep noise to a minimum, I prefer the switch right where I'm
working. I glued magnets to the remotes and "stick" them to the cast
iron on the tools I'm currently working at. I don't have to go around
and bend down to open the blast gate every time I turn them on. I
guess one could put both systems in series.

Great suggestion of magnets!! Will do soonest.

The iSwitch works quite well for the SCMS (though the dust collection
on the SCMS only sorta sucks) because it comes on with the SCMS
switch. Each are on opposite 120V legs, so startup surge isn't a
problem.

That was a problem with the toolswitch thingy from Sears I had, tripping.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 8/26/2012 9:27 AM, Han wrote:
tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote in
:

I prefer the wired system to blast gates. I kept finding myself
forgetting to open a gate and turning it on. Or forgetting to turn it
on after opening the gate. Now I just pull the gate open and it turns
on.

That is the ideal situation. I should go back to that, but at the moment
(semi)stationary tools are still not in their real final places. That
makes wiring a bit tough. I still have the wired Long Ranger (110V
version) to go back to.

I made my own switches.. using brass wipers and aluminum tape...
works well.

That is very interesting. How did you do that? If someone with limited
electrical experience can do it too, I might try. WOuld you care to
explain more, please?

I'll take a picture.. piece of cake.

On 8/26/2012 11:25 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On 26 Aug 2012 13:24:13 GMT, Han wrote:

To keep noise to a minimum, I prefer the switch right where I'm working. I
glued magnets to the remotes and "stick" them to the cast iron on the tools
I'm currently working at. I don't have to go around and bend down to open the
blast gate every time I turn them on.

I put all my blast gates at workbench height. That way I don't have to
lean down. There's no point to having to lean down all the time... just
sucks.


I guess one could put both systems in
series.

The iSwitch works quite well for the SCMS (though the dust collection on the
SCMS only sorta sucks) because it comes on with the SCMS switch. Each are on
opposite 120V legs, so startup surge isn't a problem.

On 26 Aug 2012 18:11:52 GMT, Han wrote:

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:zq-
:

But to be on the safe side, take a picture of "yourself" before making
changes, another picture of yourself after making changes, post on line
for us to valuate. You may not be using good judgement after the
modification!. :~O

Too late for that. I have the pictures of what I did, though they are of
terrible quality. With regard to myself, I am finally, finally getting
noticeably better from my whooping cough. Still need cough medicine every
4 hrs, almost 4 weeks after antibiotics.

Wow, bummer. It may be an indication of the extent of damage the
coughing has caused to your lungs. REST, Han!

(From http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0002528/ )

"Cough mixtures, expectorants, and suppressants are usually not
helpful and should NOT be used."

--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman

On Sun, 26 Aug 2012 14:33:57 -0400, tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote:

On 8/26/2012 11:25 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On 26 Aug 2012 13:24:13 GMT, Han wrote:

To keep noise to a minimum, I prefer the switch right where I'm working. I
glued magnets to the remotes and "stick" them to the cast iron on the tools
I'm currently working at. I don't have to go around and bend down to open the
blast gate every time I turn them on.

I put all my blast gates at workbench height. That way I don't have to
lean down. There's no point to having to lean down all the time... just
sucks.

I have them as close to the tools as possible, though I guess with my new shop
I can change that. I'm planning on keeping the DC in a central location to
minimize hose length to the tools, though.


I guess one could put both systems in
series.

The iSwitch works quite well for the SCMS (though the dust collection on the
SCMS only sorta sucks) because it comes on with the SCMS switch. Each are on
opposite 120V legs, so startup surge isn't a problem.

Thinking about it, the above isn't true (there is only one cord). They just
come on at different times.

On 8/26/2012 9:27 AM, Han wrote:
tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote in
:

I prefer the wired system to blast gates. I kept finding myself
forgetting to open a gate and turning it on. Or forgetting to turn it
on after opening the gate. Now I just pull the gate open and it turns
on.

That is the ideal situation. I should go back to that, but at the moment
(semi)stationary tools are still not in their real final places. That
makes wiring a bit tough. I still have the wired Long Ranger (110V
version) to go back to.

I made my own switches.. using brass wipers and aluminum tape...
works well.

That is very interesting. How did you do that? If someone with limited
electrical experience can do it too, I might try. WOuld you care to
explain more, please?

Han see my images at http://imgur.com/a/wLzRs#0

All the brass is, is sheet brass cut with a scissor and soldered to
wire. The brass can be had at Ace Hardware or a hobby shop.

The aluminum tape is basically tape for sealing HVAC ducts.
The rest should be self explanatory.

This wires into a relay so the wires are all low voltage.
The relay is what trips the 120VAC..

My gates are self cleaning, it works, occasionaly I have to touch the
brass to bend it out.. but I didn't spend a lot and I didn't want dust
to mess with the micro switches. This works as well or better.

Sounds like moisture got the low value switch and the parts /spring
broke by corrosion.

Martin

On 8/25/2012 2:16 PM, Leon wrote:
On 8/25/2012 1:55 PM, Han wrote:
On topic!
I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn
canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I
turn it
off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been increasing
problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC stopped
working
altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now
"loose".
It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly
ever
been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with
the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and
microswitches on the dustgates?

Absolutely not!



Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement
switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...

All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!



You might consider ordering a universal remote control for total control
and bypassing the switch on the DC altogether. Have the motor plug
directly into the remote.

No I don't think those things could affect the on/off switch of the DC. You could bypass the switch entirely and use the remote control to turn it on off?

al

On Saturday, August 25, 2012 2:55:25 PM UTC-4, Han wrote:
On topic!

I've had a Dust Collector from HF for a long time, complete with Wynn

canister filter and homemade "cyclone" garbage can precollector. I turn it

off with a Shop Fox, D3038 remote. Lately there have been increasing

problems with turning the DC on and off, and today, the DC stopped working

altogether. One problem is that the switch on the DC motor is now "loose".

It doesn't toggle on and off anymore. Note that the switch has hardly ever

been used to turn the DC on or off. Would I have damaged the switch with

the Shop Fox D3038 remote or with my previous system with relay and

microswitches on the dustgates?



Has anyone had any similar problem? I am going to order a replacement

switch from HF, and hope that I will be able to fix this ...



All comments on this problem will be appreciated!!



--

Best regards

Han

email address is invalid

Larry Jaques wrote in
news
On 26 Aug 2012 18:11:52 GMT, Han wrote:

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:zq-
:

But to be on the safe side, take a picture of "yourself" before
making changes, another picture of yourself after making changes,
post on line for us to valuate. You may not be using good judgement
after the modification!. :~O

Too late for that. I have the pictures of what I did, though they are
of terrible quality. With regard to myself, I am finally, finally
getting noticeably better from my whooping cough. Still need cough
medicine every 4 hrs, almost 4 weeks after antibiotics.

Wow, bummer. It may be an indication of the extent of damage the
coughing has caused to your lungs. REST, Han!

(From http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0002528/ )

"Cough mixtures, expectorants, and suppressants are usually not
helpful and should NOT be used."

Well, at the advice of my doctor, I do use cough medicine -
expectorent/cough suppressant guanefesin/dextromethorphan, as well as
menthol cough drops. They help because my lungs are/were full of slime
that made me get "paroxysmal" coughing fits. The expectorant especially
helps get the stuff loose. But I'm going to see a pulmonologist next
week to get a better opinion.

One thing the link points out is that everyone should get a "The Tdap
vaccine should be given around age 11 or 12, and every 10 years
thereafter." http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0004586/
It says it is for adults 19 to 64. I've had tetanus shots at least every
10 years, but apparently not Tdap. As soon as I am really healthy I'm
going to get it. NOTE: There are many different strains of pertussis.
The "normal" immunity one gets is against a surface antigen on the
bacterium that mutates like flu. The vaccine is against an intracellular
componenet that is essential for all pertussis. But it wears off after
10 yearsa.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Martin Eastburn wrote in news:BLA_r.636922
:

Sounds like moisture got the low value switch and the parts /spring
broke by corrosion.

My basement is fairly dry. I think the switch was low quality, and arcing
killed it, but of course my basement in NJ isn't the same as the Arizona
desert.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote in
:

On 8/26/2012 9:27 AM, Han wrote:
tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote in
:

I prefer the wired system to blast gates. I kept finding myself
forgetting to open a gate and turning it on. Or forgetting to turn
it on after opening the gate. Now I just pull the gate open and it
turns on.

That is the ideal situation. I should go back to that, but at the
moment (semi)stationary tools are still not in their real final
places. That makes wiring a bit tough. I still have the wired Long
Ranger (110V version) to go back to.

I made my own switches.. using brass wipers and aluminum tape...
works well.

That is very interesting. How did you do that? If someone with
limited electrical experience can do it too, I might try. WOuld you
care to explain more, please?

Han see my images at http://imgur.com/a/wLzRs#0

All the brass is, is sheet brass cut with a scissor and soldered to
wire. The brass can be had at Ace Hardware or a hobby shop.

The aluminum tape is basically tape for sealing HVAC ducts.
The rest should be self explanatory.

This wires into a relay so the wires are all low voltage.
The relay is what trips the 120VAC..

My gates are self cleaning, it works, occasionaly I have to touch the
brass to bend it out.. but I didn't spend a lot and I didn't want dust
to mess with the micro switches. This works as well or better.

Thanks! link is bookmarked, but I may not even need it anymore. Indeed
simple.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Ribbit wrote in
:

No I don't think those things could affect the on/off switch of the
DC. You could bypass the switch entirely and use the remote control
to turn it on off?


Thanks, Ribbit. It's done like you said, Took the switch out and
wirenutted the wires. All is functioning at $0.00. I used the nuts I had
grin.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 27 Aug 2012 03:44:21 GMT, Han wrote:

Ribbit wrote in
:

No I don't think those things could affect the on/off switch of the
DC. You could bypass the switch entirely and use the remote control
to turn it on off?


Thanks, Ribbit. It's done like you said, Took the switch out and
wirenutted the wires. All is functioning at $0.00. I used the nuts I had
grin.

Didn't that hurt?

On 27 Aug 2012 03:30:40 GMT, Han wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote in
news
On 26 Aug 2012 18:11:52 GMT, Han wrote:

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:zq-
:

But to be on the safe side, take a picture of "yourself" before
making changes, another picture of yourself after making changes,
post on line for us to valuate. You may not be using good judgement
after the modification!. :~O

Too late for that. I have the pictures of what I did, though they are
of terrible quality. With regard to myself, I am finally, finally
getting noticeably better from my whooping cough. Still need cough
medicine every 4 hrs, almost 4 weeks after antibiotics.

Wow, bummer. It may be an indication of the extent of damage the
coughing has caused to your lungs. REST, Han!

(From http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0002528/ )

"Cough mixtures, expectorants, and suppressants are usually not
helpful and should NOT be used."

Well, at the advice of my doctor, I do use cough medicine -
expectorent/cough suppressant guanefesin/dextromethorphan, as well as
menthol cough drops. They help because my lungs are/were full of slime
that made me get "paroxysmal" coughing fits. The expectorant especially
helps get the stuff loose. But I'm going to see a pulmonologist next
week to get a better opinion.

Good idea.


One thing the link points out is that everyone should get a "The Tdap
vaccine should be given around age 11 or 12, and every 10 years
thereafter." http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0004586/
It says it is for adults 19 to 64. I've had tetanus shots at least every
10 years, but apparently not Tdap. As soon as I am really healthy I'm
going to get it. NOTE: There are many different strains of pertussis.
The "normal" immunity one gets is against a surface antigen on the
bacterium that mutates like flu. The vaccine is against an intracellular
componenet that is essential for all pertussis. But it wears off after
10 yearsa.

Jeeze, I haven't had any innoculations in at least 30 years, I don't
think. I had the full set(s) as a kid, but none since my teen years
that I can remember.

I got a flu shot once and got a bad case of the flu from it, so I
don't do that any more. sigh

--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman

On 27 Aug 2012 03:32:20 GMT, Han wrote:

Martin Eastburn wrote in news:BLA_r.636922
:

Sounds like moisture got the low value switch and the parts /spring
broke by corrosion.

My basement is fairly dry. I think the switch was low quality, and arcing
killed it, but of course my basement in NJ isn't the same as the Arizona
desert.

Just a wild guess, but could you have installed the relay way back
when _because_ the on/off switch felt funny? I've done things like
that before, then forgotten why.

--
The human brain is unique in that it is the only container of which
it can be said that the more you put into it, the more it will hold.
-- Glenn Doman