Bill wrote:


Yes, I think I'll start over like Leon suggested. Now that I have a
grasp of the procedure I ought to be able to put on coats pretty fast.

You can - it's not bad advice. But... it's good to learn how to get past
the problems we create. without starting over. It's just a low spot, and it
can be fixed. Either way, you're going to have to get it out or else you
will just have it show up again when you start over. Low spots don't just
do away, you have to sand them away.


In the meantime, I am going to play with drywall compound.

You sir, are a glutton for punishment...

I will
share a little secret which greatly improved my taping: Dunk the
length of paper tape in a bucket of water (I shake it off real well).

Yup - no secret though... that's the way you're supposed to put it on.


--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:


Yes, I think I'll start over like Leon suggested. Now that I have a
grasp of the procedure I ought to be able to put on coats pretty fast.

You can - it's not bad advice. But... it's good to learn how to get past
the problems we create. without starting over. It's just a low spot, and it
can be fixed. Either way, you're going to have to get it out or else you
will just have it show up again when you start over. Low spots don't just
do away, you have to sand them away.

When I look at it, I think it's worth a try too. I'll let you know how
it goes.





In the meantime, I am going to play with drywall compound.

You sir, are a glutton for punishment...

I will
share a little secret which greatly improved my taping: Dunk the
length of paper tape in a bucket of water (I shake it off real well).

Yup - no secret though... that's the way you're supposed to put it on.

I believe you, but the "secret" is usually not mentioned where it ought
to be.

Bill

Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 8/3/2012 2:35 AM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 5:08 PM, Bill wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 02:14:51 -0400, Bill wrote:

I just tried poly (Minwax wipe-on) for the first time.



Don't worry about the "nibs" until you are finished. Then rub it
all down with a paper sack or printer paper.



I sanded very lightly with 600 grit following the 2nd coat (and
several days), and applied the 3rd coat. I noticed a blemish (1"
by 1/4") created either by the blue nitrile gloves or by the sand
paper. It is still visible following the 4th coat which I applied
without sanding first.

My thinking is that I should give it 24 hours or more to set, and
then go back to the blemish with the 600 grit (I have up to 2000
grit). Is this the right strategy, or is this likely to just make
the blemish bigger?

Thanks,
Bill

Define blemish.

I took 2 pictures to describe "blemish" and put them on my web page:
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

My guess is that they were caused by "sandpaper damage". I was pretty
gentle though, using 600-grit with water. Hmmm..I was thinking that
would be gentler than "dry", but now I'm not sure.

Can you suggest to me the best way to pretty-her back up?

1. Sand the "blemish" and surrounding area so that it isn't sunken

2. Apply more finish

Note: this concludes today's rocket science lesson.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

In the meantime, I am going to play with drywall compound.

You sir, are a glutton for punishment...

I will
share a little secret which greatly improved my taping: Dunk the
length of paper tape in a bucket of water (I shake it off real
well).

Yup - no secret though... that's the way you're supposed to put it
on.

I believe you, but the "secret" is usually not mentioned where it
ought to be.


Yeah - probably because it seems most people have gotten away from paper
tape these days and have gone to fiberglass mesh tape. That stuff has a
sticky on it, so you just press it on the wall and start mudding.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

In the meantime, I am going to play with drywall compound.

You sir, are a glutton for punishment...

I will
share a little secret which greatly improved my taping: Dunk the
length of paper tape in a bucket of water (I shake it off real
well).

Yup - no secret though... that's the way you're supposed to put it
on.

I believe you, but the "secret" is usually not mentioned where it
ought to be.


Yeah - probably because it seems most people have gotten away from paper
tape these days and have gone to fiberglass mesh tape. That stuff has a
sticky on it, so you just press it on the wall and start mudding.

I don't think that's the reason. Have you ever seen anyone use a tape
reel and water at the same time? Most, but not all, of the drywall
instruction I have seen do not mention wetting the paper tape.
Having done it both ways, taking the time to wet it is a very smart
investment. Evidentally, you were taught the same way.

I think the paper tape can deliver thinner joints, especially where
non-tapered edges almost meet. I have not tried the fiberglass mesh
tape. I am sure it has it's advantages. I'd be lying if I said I didn't
get some satisfaction from making a "well-taped joint"--I haven't
possessed the skill that long! I am getting even more satisfaction
since I started dunking the tape in water! : )

Bill

On Sat, 04 Aug 2012 13:25:13 -0400, Bill wrote:

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

In the meantime, I am going to play with drywall compound.

You sir, are a glutton for punishment...

I will
share a little secret which greatly improved my taping: Dunk the
length of paper tape in a bucket of water (I shake it off real
well).

Yup - no secret though... that's the way you're supposed to put it
on.

I believe you, but the "secret" is usually not mentioned where it
ought to be.


Yeah - probably because it seems most people have gotten away from paper
tape these days and have gone to fiberglass mesh tape. That stuff has a
sticky on it, so you just press it on the wall and start mudding.

I don't think that's the reason. Have you ever seen anyone use a tape
reel and water at the same time? Most, but not all, of the drywall
instruction I have seen do not mention wetting the paper tape.
Having done it both ways, taking the time to wet it is a very smart
investment. Evidentally, you were taught the same way.

I think the paper tape can deliver thinner joints, especially where
non-tapered edges almost meet. I have not tried the fiberglass mesh
tape. I am sure it has it's advantages. I'd be lying if I said I didn't
get some satisfaction from making a "well-taped joint"--I haven't
possessed the skill that long! I am getting even more satisfaction
since I started dunking the tape in water! : )

Don't taping banjos have a sponge or something to wet the tape. I just use
the nylon mesh stuff. I *hate* taping and I have a lot of it coming up over
the next few years.

dadiOH wrote:
Bill wrote:

Can you suggest to me the best way to pretty-her back up?

1. Sand the "blemish" and surrounding area so that it isn't sunken

2. Apply more finish

Note: this concludes today's rocket science lesson.

I was definitely impressed with how a mere few seconds with 1200-grit
removed the small "crater". More finish has been applied! : )

Bill

Bill wrote:

Most, but not all, of the drywall
instruction I have seen do not mention wetting the paper tape.
Having done it both ways, taking the time to wet it is a very smart
investment. Evidentally, you were taught the same way.

Correct.


I think the paper tape can deliver thinner joints, especially where
non-tapered edges almost meet. I have not tried the fiberglass mesh
tape. I am sure it has it's advantages. I'd be lying if I said I
didn't get some satisfaction from making a "well-taped joint"--I
haven't possessed the skill that long! I am getting even more
satisfaction since I started dunking the tape in water! : )


I still prefer paper tape myself. In part because it is thinner and easier
to get a nice blend with, and in part because it's what I grew up with.
I've used plenty of fiberglass mesh tape, but if the two are side by side, I
generally prefer to use the paper stuff.

--

-Mike-

Bill wrote:
dadiOH wrote:
Bill wrote:

Can you suggest to me the best way to pretty-her back up?

1. Sand the "blemish" and surrounding area so that it isn't sunken

2. Apply more finish

Note: this concludes today's rocket science lesson.

I was definitely impressed with how a mere few seconds with 1200-grit
removed the small "crater". More finish has been applied! : )


Yup - typically the divot is not really all that deep, but the finish really
makes it look deep. A little bit of work and it's gone.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
dadiOH wrote:
Bill wrote:

Can you suggest to me the best way to pretty-her back up?

1. Sand the "blemish" and surrounding area so that it isn't sunken

2. Apply more finish

Note: this concludes today's rocket science lesson.

I was definitely impressed with how a mere few seconds with 1200-grit
removed the small "crater". More finish has been applied! : )


Yup - typically the divot is not really all that deep, but the finish really
makes it look deep. A little bit of work and it's gone.


Making a "$100 honing strop" was mostly about getting a lesson--and I
was a benefactor of several excellent ones besides what I learned
myself! My favorite part was using my Nicholson rasp for the first time.
I'll post a pic after I glue on the leather this week in case anyone
would care to see the result. Thank you for your help!

Bill

tiredofspam wrote:
BTW you can reduce fish eyes with a fish eye killer. I got mine from an
auto paint shop years ago. Now we have no auto paint supply shops where
I live now. You can probably get some at a good paint store.

I think mine was Raja fish eye killer. I can't read the label anymore.
1 drop per pint - quart (already thinned) that's all thats required..
it'll last you a long time.


That would be silicon oil.

On Fri, 03 Aug 2012 03:35:59 -0400, Bill wrote:

Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 5:08 PM, Bill wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 02:14:51 -0400, Bill wrote:

I just tried poly (Minwax wipe-on) for the first time.



Don't worry about the "nibs" until you are finished. Then rub it all
down with a paper sack or printer paper.



I sanded very lightly with 600 grit following the 2nd coat (and several
days), and applied the 3rd coat. I noticed a blemish (1" by 1/4")
created either by the blue nitrile gloves or by the sand paper. It is
still visible following the 4th coat which I applied without sanding first.

My thinking is that I should give it 24 hours or more to set, and then
go back to the blemish with the 600 grit (I have up to 2000 grit). Is
this the right strategy, or is this likely to just make the blemish bigger?

Yes, probably.


--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

On Sat, 4 Aug 2012 07:22:41 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 8/3/2012 2:35 AM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 5:08 PM, Bill wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 02:14:51 -0400, Bill wrote:

I just tried poly (Minwax wipe-on) for the first time.



Don't worry about the "nibs" until you are finished. Then rub it
all down with a paper sack or printer paper.



I sanded very lightly with 600 grit following the 2nd coat (and
several days), and applied the 3rd coat. I noticed a blemish (1"
by 1/4") created either by the blue nitrile gloves or by the sand
paper. It is still visible following the 4th coat which I applied
without sanding first.

My thinking is that I should give it 24 hours or more to set, and
then go back to the blemish with the 600 grit (I have up to 2000
grit). Is this the right strategy, or is this likely to just make
the blemish bigger?

Thanks,
Bill

Define blemish.

I took 2 pictures to describe "blemish" and put them on my web page:
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

My guess is that they were caused by "sandpaper damage". I was pretty
gentle though, using 600-grit with water. Hmmm..I was thinking that
would be gentler than "dry", but now I'm not sure.

Can you suggest to me the best way to pretty-her back up?

1. Sand the "blemish" and surrounding area so that it isn't sunken

Possibly oversanded or merely wiped off with rubber glove.


2. Apply more finish

Right, no big.


Note: this concludes today's rocket science lesson.

Precisely. Another wipe-on coat should have hidden it immediately. If
not, he might have a contaminant in the finish IF it wasn't there
before (and after) the -first- coat.

--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

Larry Jaques wrote:

Note: this concludes today's rocket science lesson.

Precisely. Another wipe-on coat should have hidden it immediately. If
not, he might have a contaminant in the finish IF it wasn't there
before (and after) the -first- coat.


No, I tried two further coats (which didn't hide the small "crater").
Very minimal sanding with 1200-grit sanded the blemish perfectly smoothe.

I'm sure I will find the technique" very helpful again.

Jeff Jewitt's book, "Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing"
is on my list of books to watch for.

Bill







--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

On Tue, 07 Aug 2012 01:20:55 -0400, Bill wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Note: this concludes today's rocket science lesson.

Precisely. Another wipe-on coat should have hidden it immediately. If
not, he might have a contaminant in the finish IF it wasn't there
before (and after) the -first- coat.


No, I tried two further coats (which didn't hide the small "crater").
Very minimal sanding with 1200-grit sanded the blemish perfectly smoothe.

I'm sure I will find the technique" very helpful again.

Jeff Jewitt's book, "Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing"
is on my list of books to watch for.

His _Hand Applied Finishes_ is my bible.

--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

On Aug 1, 11:13*pm, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 01 Aug 2012 11:14:41 -0400, Bill wrote:

dadiOH wrote:
Bill wrote:

Using the green Chrome Oxide honing compound, black muck is created
when honing. I'm not sure whether genuine swarf is created or not. It
probably is, but I'm not familiar enough with the term.

FWIW, I've been using straight razors for 60 years. *I've occasionally used
a compound - not chrome oxide - but with or without I've never had any muck
of any color. *I wouldn't expect any...honing is more to straighten/lay the
edge than for removing material.

Most of the woodcarvers I know are carving basswood, so a lot of metal
does not need to be removed from their knives. I have been assured that
the honing compound IS removing material. *I don't claim any further
expertise on the matter.

Green compound is a _polishing_ compound more than anything, so it
removes very little metal. *Got that pic yet?

It removes enough to keep the knives sharp. *What is your point?

Cuts tool steel about 3x faster than red rouge.

Bill wrote:

Making a "$100 honing strop" was mostly about getting a lesson--and I
was a benefactor of several excellent ones besides what I learned
myself! My favorite part was using my Nicholson rasp for the first time.
I'll post a pic after I glue on the leather this week in case anyone
would care to see the result. Thank you for your help!

Bill



I posted 3 pics of my honing strong on my website in case anyone would
like to see it before I start mucking it up! ; ) One of them includes
a picture of a tool roll I started last spring.

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

Bill

Bill wrote:


I posted 3 pics of my honing strong on my website in case anyone would
like to see it before I start mucking it up! ; ) One of them
includes a picture of a tool roll I started last spring.


Very nice Bill!

--

-Mike-

On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 01:39:20 -0400, Bill wrote:

Bill wrote:

Making a "$100 honing strop" was mostly about getting a lesson--and I
was a benefactor of several excellent ones besides what I learned
myself! My favorite part was using my Nicholson rasp for the first time.

Good rasps are a far cry from the deep-toothed cousins from Asia,
aren't they? They're a joy to use instead of an onerous task.

I'll post a pic after I glue on the leather this week in case anyone
would care to see the result. Thank you for your help!

Bill



I posted 3 pics of my honing strong on my website in case anyone would

Other than it being too short by half (black muck will quickly cover
it), it's shore purty. Is that a decal you glued to one side of the
leather?!


like to see it before I start mucking it up! ; ) One of them includes
a picture of a tool roll I started last spring.

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

Hey, no need to deepen your voice at the fabric store. Real Men Sew.

--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

Hey, no need to deepen your voice at the fabric store. Real Men Sew.

My sewing is only so-so...

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 01:39:20 -0400, Bill wrote:

Bill wrote:

Making a "$100 honing strop" was mostly about getting a lesson--and I
was a benefactor of several excellent ones besides what I learned
myself! My favorite part was using my Nicholson rasp for the first time.

Good rasps are a far cry from the deep-toothed cousins from Asia,
aren't they? They're a joy to use instead of an onerous task.

Yes, I feel like I've barely tapped the rasp's potential to express.
This is good because I have a challenging task, an 1830's-circa
minstrel-style banjo, in mind for it. Some of the shaping involved is
not so much different than, say, that of a honing strop. : ) And hey, I
just realized, I have almost 7 feet of Hard Maple left over from my
honing strop project! Hmmm...



Other than it being too short by half (black muck will quickly cover
it), it's shore purty. Is that a decal you glued to one side of the
leather?!

The leather is just on one side, but I can always put some on the other
side.

I just included the woodcarving club patch in the photo for artisic
purposes and because it seemed like the right thing to do. I sent a
link to my web page to three of the club members.

My 2 woodcarving knives didn't fit the picture, and my gouges aren't
pretty enough--at least not yet. I could have included my old Stanley
#45 combination plane in the picture, but then no one would have noticed
my strop!
I'm a beginning photo-taker, but I think I have more artistic sense than
my neighbor's dog. I'm sure my photography skills will improve with
more practice. I been practicing my web site building skills using
Macromedia Dreamweaver so you may have a better experience when you
visit my web site in the future. I learned how to put a couple of
buttons at the top of the page. I'm not sure if it will create "tabs"...

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/



--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

BTW, I can sort of identify with your quote above. Does that reveal
anything about me? Denial??? : )

Bill