Leon wrote:
On 7/31/2012 10:24 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:


Man - tha't an awful lot of asses around here...



Tha't is. you said Tha't. ;~) Welcome to my style of typing!

That's funny! See what happens when we don't proof read! And nobody has
ever accused me of that...

--

-Mike-

Dave wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 23:24:34 -0700, Larry Jaques
I see what you mean. Would a coat of paste wax over the poly make it
any easier to keep/wipe the muck off?

WHAT muck? What are you doing to your poor strop, clazy amellican?

He's probably talking about the swarf from sharpening. Don't know
about Bill, but I frequently wipe the swarf off the blades I'm
sharpening. By the time the strop comes along, there isn't any "black
muck" around.


Using the green Chrome Oxide honing compound, black muck is created
when honing. I'm not sure whether genuine swarf is created or not. It
probably is, but I'm not familiar enough with the term.

Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 8:19 PM, Bill wrote:

Do you think an application of Johnson's paste wax improve the
durability of the (satin) finish? Since it's going to be my custom
honing strop, I would like to be able to wipe the "black muck" off of
it.

Wax on bare wood will improve water resistance for a bit.

I mainly use wax as a lubricant. I use it to make drawers, with out
mechanical slides, slide easier. And that tends to last a long time. I
also use it to lube screws.

Thanks, I think I can put that information to use (I was thinking of
adding a drawer or two to my new woodbench). For now, I need to go play
with drywall compound--I seem to resist it, despite how much fun it is.
; )

Mike Marlow wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 06:59:16 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 7/31/2012 1:29 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:


Why do yo find it necessary to wipe down the nibs between coats??
Why don't you simply get them all after the final coat?

Again, I don't want to embed them in finish. It adds, what, mebbe
5-7 minutes (max) to a project?


I neeeeeeeeeeeever treat between coats.

True, but you slather stain and poly all over everything, too.
Ewwwwwwwwwwww!


Mike said you talk out your ass. He said ass. ;~)

So go stain and poly him. That'll fix his ass. I said Ass! ;~)

Man - tha't an awful lot of asses around here...

The group does tend toward anal

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 7/31/2012 10:41 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 7/31/2012 10:24 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:


Man - tha't an awful lot of asses around here...



Tha't is. you said Tha't. ;~) Welcome to my style of typing!

That's funny! See what happens when we don't proof read! And nobody has
ever accused me of that...


It does not matter if I proof read or not..... the spell checker still
spells it wrong. ;~)

On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 12:05:54 -0400, Bill wrote:

Dave wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 23:24:34 -0700, Larry Jaques
I see what you mean. Would a coat of paste wax over the poly make it
any easier to keep/wipe the muck off?

WHAT muck? What are you doing to your poor strop, clazy amellican?

He's probably talking about the swarf from sharpening. Don't know
about Bill, but I frequently wipe the swarf off the blades I'm
sharpening. By the time the strop comes along, there isn't any "black
muck" around.


Using the green Chrome Oxide honing compound, black muck is created
when honing. I'm not sure whether genuine swarf is created or not. It
probably is, but I'm not familiar enough with the term.

I usually take a dozen swipes at most when honing, and I haven't seen
any black muck form on my strop yet, in several years. You only strop
sharpened (and then cleaned/wiped) blades, oui?

--
When we are planning for posterity, we ought
to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh)

On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 12:19:02 -0400, Bill wrote:

Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 8:19 PM, Bill wrote:

Do you think an application of Johnson's paste wax improve the
durability of the (satin) finish? Since it's going to be my custom
honing strop, I would like to be able to wipe the "black muck" off of
it.

Wax on bare wood will improve water resistance for a bit.

I mainly use wax as a lubricant. I use it to make drawers, with out
mechanical slides, slide easier. And that tends to last a long time. I
also use it to lube screws.

Thanks, I think I can put that information to use (I was thinking of
adding a drawer or two to my new woodbench). For now, I need to go play
with drywall compound--I seem to resist it, despite how much fun it is.
; )

Got a wet shop vac and a P100 respirator? sigh Water really helps
trap the nasty, superfine dust.

--
When we are planning for posterity, we ought
to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh)

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 12:05:54 -0400, Bill wrote:

Dave wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 23:24:34 -0700, Larry Jaques
I see what you mean. Would a coat of paste wax over the poly make it
any easier to keep/wipe the muck off?

WHAT muck? What are you doing to your poor strop, clazy amellican?

He's probably talking about the swarf from sharpening. Don't know
about Bill, but I frequently wipe the swarf off the blades I'm
sharpening. By the time the strop comes along, there isn't any "black
muck" around.


Using the green Chrome Oxide honing compound, black muck is created
when honing. I'm not sure whether genuine swarf is created or not. It
probably is, but I'm not familiar enough with the term.

I usually take a dozen swipes at most when honing, and I haven't seen
any black muck form on my strop yet, in several years. You only strop
sharpened (and then cleaned/wiped) blades, oui?

The way I understand it, once woodcarving knives are sharpened, they
can go along time without being resharpening if they are stropped
regularly--say every 30 minutes. The same holds for woodcarving gouges.
I don't believe this holds for M&T gouges. Because of their "more
difficult life", I think they might more frequently need to visit a
stone (I'm not sure). Green (or other) honing compound is put on the
leather (thin leather is better than thick). The honing compound and the
swarf together create a chemical reaction which results in what I call
black muck. ; )

When asked why I didn't yet own a strop, I've said that I had to build a
workbench to make one on first. With that detail out of the way, my
custom strop is almost complete! It may seem a little silly to fuss
over the finish on such a tool, except I consider it good practice for
the furniture on the horizon, and I'll put a satin finish on it if I
want to. : ) I'm planning to make a small tool box from Yellow Poplar
to hold the strop along with my other woodcarving accessories. My SU
drawing of it includes a lift-out tray. The tool box should give me a
good change to practice cutting DT-joints. If you assemble the projects
I've mentioned in the right order, you may see my "graded exercises". I
also view my projects as a reflection of numerous conversations on the
Wreck and also my learning about the craft.

Cheers,
Bill

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 12:19:02 -0400, Bill wrote:

Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 8:19 PM, Bill wrote:

Do you think an application of Johnson's paste wax improve the
durability of the (satin) finish? Since it's going to be my custom
honing strop, I would like to be able to wipe the "black muck" off of
it.

Wax on bare wood will improve water resistance for a bit.

I mainly use wax as a lubricant. I use it to make drawers, with out
mechanical slides, slide easier. And that tends to last a long time. I
also use it to lube screws.

Thanks, I think I can put that information to use (I was thinking of
adding a drawer or two to my new woodbench). For now, I need to go play
with drywall compound--I seem to resist it, despite how much fun it is.
; )

Got a wet shop vac and a P100 respirator? sigh Water really helps
trap the nasty, superfine dust.

I'm glad I sprung for the *vacuum* drywall sander! I've had better luck
with shop vac "bags", than water, though I tried water first.

Based on reading another post, I am going to upgrade my shop vac filter
to one of the better/best green ones (~$30, at Sears) for this task. I
wear an N95 rated dust mask for this and many other tasks.

After doing some other yardwork today, I decided to postpone my drywall
work until the conditions are more humane--perhaps after dark.

Here is a related question I had: Is the shop vac filter only there to
filter the air it outputs for the sake of the user, or does it protect
the unit (in any way)? For instance, if I'm vacuuming wet leaves (the
eave troughs), is there any benefit to using a filter?

Bill



--
When we are planning for posterity, we ought
to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh)

On 7/31/2012 3:34 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 12:19:02 -0400, Bill wrote:

Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 8:19 PM, Bill wrote:

Do you think an application of Johnson's paste wax improve the
durability of the (satin) finish? Since it's going to be my custom
honing strop, I would like to be able to wipe the "black muck" off of
it.

Wax on bare wood will improve water resistance for a bit.

I mainly use wax as a lubricant. I use it to make drawers, with out
mechanical slides, slide easier. And that tends to last a long time. I
also use it to lube screws.

Thanks, I think I can put that information to use (I was thinking of
adding a drawer or two to my new woodbench). For now, I need to go play
with drywall compound--I seem to resist it, despite how much fun it is.
; )

Got a wet shop vac and a P100 respirator? sigh Water really helps
trap the nasty, superfine dust.

I'm glad I sprung for the *vacuum* drywall sander! I've had better luck
with shop vac "bags", than water, though I tried water first.

Based on reading another post, I am going to upgrade my shop vac filter
to one of the better/best green ones (~$30, at Sears) for this task. I
wear an N95 rated dust mask for this and many other tasks.

After doing some other yardwork today, I decided to postpone my drywall
work until the conditions are more humane--perhaps after dark.

Here is a related question I had: Is the shop vac filter only there to
filter the air it outputs for the sake of the user, or does it protect
the unit (in any way)? For instance, if I'm vacuuming wet leaves (the
eave troughs), is there any benefit to using a filter?

Generally if the filter gets dirty quickly the filter is there to
protect the motor and then you, somewhat. Better vacs will draw the
debris directly into a filter bag and will have a secondary filter that
typically stays very very clean. These type typically do not loose
suction until the filter bag is 98 % full and ready to be tossed. The
secondary filter will still be quite clean.

On 7/31/2012 3:34 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 12:19:02 -0400, Bill wrote:

Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 8:19 PM, Bill wrote:

Do you think an application of Johnson's paste wax improve the
durability of the (satin) finish? Since it's going to be my custom
honing strop, I would like to be able to wipe the "black muck" off of
it.

Wax on bare wood will improve water resistance for a bit.

I mainly use wax as a lubricant. I use it to make drawers, with out
mechanical slides, slide easier. And that tends to last a long time. I
also use it to lube screws.

Thanks, I think I can put that information to use (I was thinking of
adding a drawer or two to my new woodbench). For now, I need to go play
with drywall compound--I seem to resist it, despite how much fun it is.
; )

Got a wet shop vac and a P100 respirator? sigh Water really helps
trap the nasty, superfine dust.

I'm glad I sprung for the *vacuum* drywall sander! I've had better luck
with shop vac "bags", than water, though I tried water first.

Based on reading another post, I am going to upgrade my shop vac filter
to one of the better/best green ones (~$30, at Sears) for this task. I
wear an N95 rated dust mask for this and many other tasks.

After doing some other yardwork today, I decided to postpone my drywall
work until the conditions are more humane--perhaps after dark.

Here is a related question I had: Is the shop vac filter only there to
filter the air it outputs for the sake of the user, or does it protect
the unit (in any way)? For instance, if I'm vacuuming wet leaves (the
eave troughs), is there any benefit to using a filter?

Generally if the filter gets dirty quickly the filter is there to
protect the motor and then you, somewhat. Better vacs will draw the
debris directly into a filter bag and will have a secondary filter that
typically stays very very clean. These type typically do not loose
suction until the filter bag is 98 % full and ready to be tossed. The
secondary filter will still be quite clean.

On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 16:13:27 -0400, Bill wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 12:05:54 -0400, Bill wrote:

Dave wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 23:24:34 -0700, Larry Jaques
I see what you mean. Would a coat of paste wax over the poly make it
any easier to keep/wipe the muck off?

WHAT muck? What are you doing to your poor strop, clazy amellican?

He's probably talking about the swarf from sharpening. Don't know
about Bill, but I frequently wipe the swarf off the blades I'm
sharpening. By the time the strop comes along, there isn't any "black
muck" around.


Using the green Chrome Oxide honing compound, black muck is created
when honing. I'm not sure whether genuine swarf is created or not. It
probably is, but I'm not familiar enough with the term.

I usually take a dozen swipes at most when honing, and I haven't seen
any black muck form on my strop yet, in several years. You only strop
sharpened (and then cleaned/wiped) blades, oui?

The way I understand it, once woodcarving knives are sharpened, they
can go along time without being resharpening if they are stropped
regularly--say every 30 minutes. The same holds for woodcarving gouges.
I don't believe this holds for M&T gouges. Because of their "more
difficult life", I think they might more frequently need to visit a
stone (I'm not sure).

50/50.


Green (or other) honing compound is put on the
leather (thin leather is better than thick).

Right.


The honing compound and the swarf together create a chemical reaction
which results in what I call black muck. ; )

Pictures, please. The amount of metal coming off onto the thin coating
of green compound is micro-miniscule. I'd love to see what you're
referring to.


When asked why I didn't yet own a strop, I've said that I had to build a
workbench to make one on first. With that detail out of the way, my

snort


custom strop is almost complete! It may seem a little silly to fuss
over the finish on such a tool, except I consider it good practice for
the furniture on the horizon, and I'll put a satin finish on it if I
want to. : ) I'm planning to make a small tool box from Yellow Poplar
to hold the strop along with my other woodcarving accessories. My SU
drawing of it includes a lift-out tray. The tool box should give me a
good change to practice cutting DT-joints.

Dovies are fun, but -only- if you cut them by hand. (Frank Klausz
knows best, y'know.)

Make sure you make that box a big one. You'll be collecting many more
carving tools once you feel you have the sharpening thing down pat, I
bet.


If you assemble the projects
I've mentioned in the right order, you may see my "graded exercises". I
also view my projects as a reflection of numerous conversations on the
Wreck and also my learning about the craft.

Yeah, I look back on my 8th grade crescent moon lamp project in
woodshop and cringe. heh heh heh

--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

Leon wrote:
On 7/31/2012 3:34 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 12:19:02 -0400, Bill wrote:

Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 8:19 PM, Bill wrote:

Do you think an application of Johnson's paste wax improve the
durability of the (satin) finish? Since it's going to be my custom
honing strop, I would like to be able to wipe the "black muck" off of
it.

Wax on bare wood will improve water resistance for a bit.

I mainly use wax as a lubricant. I use it to make drawers, with out
mechanical slides, slide easier. And that tends to last a long
time. I
also use it to lube screws.

Thanks, I think I can put that information to use (I was thinking of
adding a drawer or two to my new woodbench). For now, I need to go
play
with drywall compound--I seem to resist it, despite how much fun it is.
; )

Got a wet shop vac and a P100 respirator? sigh Water really helps
trap the nasty, superfine dust.

I'm glad I sprung for the *vacuum* drywall sander! I've had better luck
with shop vac "bags", than water, though I tried water first.

Based on reading another post, I am going to upgrade my shop vac filter
to one of the better/best green ones (~$30, at Sears) for this task. I
wear an N95 rated dust mask for this and many other tasks.

After doing some other yardwork today, I decided to postpone my drywall
work until the conditions are more humane--perhaps after dark.

Here is a related question I had: Is the shop vac filter only there to
filter the air it outputs for the sake of the user, or does it protect
the unit (in any way)? For instance, if I'm vacuuming wet leaves (the
eave troughs), is there any benefit to using a filter?

Generally if the filter gets dirty quickly the filter is there to
protect the motor and then you, somewhat. Better vacs will draw the
debris directly into a filter bag and will have a secondary filter that
typically stays very very clean. These type typically do not loose
suction until the filter bag is 98 % full and ready to be tossed. The
secondary filter will still be quite clean.



Mine is a Craftsman.
http://c.shld.net/assets/own/00917066e.pdf

I just looked at the manual again, and it suggested removing the filter
when vacuuming large amounts of water (I never have). That doesn't
completely answer the question, but I think it is consistent with what
you wrote. I'll keep using the filters!

I'm sure it's not as quiet as a Festool, but if it broke I would replace
it with the same model. Maybe I'll try hooking it to a TS when I get
one! : )

Bill

On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 16:34:08 -0400, Bill wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 12:19:02 -0400, Bill wrote:

Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 8:19 PM, Bill wrote:

Do you think an application of Johnson's paste wax improve the
durability of the (satin) finish? Since it's going to be my custom
honing strop, I would like to be able to wipe the "black muck" off of
it.

Wax on bare wood will improve water resistance for a bit.

I mainly use wax as a lubricant. I use it to make drawers, with out
mechanical slides, slide easier. And that tends to last a long time. I
also use it to lube screws.

Thanks, I think I can put that information to use (I was thinking of
adding a drawer or two to my new woodbench). For now, I need to go play
with drywall compound--I seem to resist it, despite how much fun it is.
; )

Got a wet shop vac and a P100 respirator? sigh Water really helps
trap the nasty, superfine dust.

I'm glad I sprung for the *vacuum* drywall sander! I've had better luck
with shop vac "bags", than water, though I tried water first.

VDS, good show!


Based on reading another post, I am going to upgrade my shop vac filter
to one of the better/best green ones (~$30, at Sears) for this task. I
wear an N95 rated dust mask for this and many other tasks.

I bought a Cleanstream from an eBay vendor who had it stored in a
ghastly, stinking storeroom. It reeks every time I use it, but it
filters well.

I decided that since I was going to protect my lungs, I'd go the extra
dollar for the 100% filters. I reuse the hell out of 'em, anyway, so
I get my money's worth. My lungs thank me.



After doing some other yardwork today, I decided to postpone my drywall
work until the conditions are more humane--perhaps after dark.

Grok that.


Here is a related question I had: Is the shop vac filter only there to
filter the air it outputs for the sake of the user, or does it protect
the unit (in any way)? For instance, if I'm vacuuming wet leaves (the
eave troughs), is there any benefit to using a filter?

Yes, usually, the filter protects the motor a bit, too. Flow is often
through the hose, into the cannister, then out through the motor,
cooling it as it goes. Follow the mfgr's suggestions, though. Some
will eat (cheaper) filters if they get wet.

Well, I got my CNC router up and running today. After tracking down
some grounding problems, I got it up. Motion in all three axes. I
had to figure out how to reverse the A axis motor since it works
slaved to the X. The gantry started to move both ways at once the
first time. g Now I have to figure out how to configure the limit
switches and home switches, and then I'm up and running! Finally.
Next, I need to learn how to run Mach3, BobCAD, and BobART Pro.

--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

On 7/31/2012 7:11 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 7/31/2012 3:34 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 12:19:02 -0400, Bill wrote:

Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 8:19 PM, Bill wrote:

Do you think an application of Johnson's paste wax improve the
durability of the (satin) finish? Since it's going to be my custom
honing strop, I would like to be able to wipe the "black muck"
off of
it.

Wax on bare wood will improve water resistance for a bit.

I mainly use wax as a lubricant. I use it to make drawers, with out
mechanical slides, slide easier. And that tends to last a long
time. I
also use it to lube screws.

Thanks, I think I can put that information to use (I was thinking of
adding a drawer or two to my new woodbench). For now, I need to go
play
with drywall compound--I seem to resist it, despite how much fun it
is.
; )

Got a wet shop vac and a P100 respirator? sigh Water really helps
trap the nasty, superfine dust.

I'm glad I sprung for the *vacuum* drywall sander! I've had better luck
with shop vac "bags", than water, though I tried water first.

Based on reading another post, I am going to upgrade my shop vac filter
to one of the better/best green ones (~$30, at Sears) for this task. I
wear an N95 rated dust mask for this and many other tasks.

After doing some other yardwork today, I decided to postpone my drywall
work until the conditions are more humane--perhaps after dark.

Here is a related question I had: Is the shop vac filter only there to
filter the air it outputs for the sake of the user, or does it protect
the unit (in any way)? For instance, if I'm vacuuming wet leaves (the
eave troughs), is there any benefit to using a filter?

Generally if the filter gets dirty quickly the filter is there to
protect the motor and then you, somewhat. Better vacs will draw the
debris directly into a filter bag and will have a secondary filter that
typically stays very very clean. These type typically do not loose
suction until the filter bag is 98 % full and ready to be tossed. The
secondary filter will still be quite clean.



Mine is a Craftsman.
http://c.shld.net/assets/own/00917066e.pdf

I just looked at the manual again, and it suggested removing the filter
when vacuuming large amounts of water (I never have). That doesn't
completely answer the question, but I think it is consistent with what
you wrote. I'll keep using the filters!

Let me say another way, typically if the vac filter is directly exposed
to the debris it is intended to protect the motor first, you second.
The secondary filters in addition to the debris going straight into the
collection bag typically are designed to protect you.



I'm sure it's not as quiet as a Festool, but if it broke I would replace
it with the same model. Maybe I'll try hooking it to a TS when I get
one! : )

You probably will not be satisfied with a shop vac, any brand, connected
to a TS. You really need the volume that a DC offers. TS's have
numerous air paths which pretty much make a shop vac ineffective.

Leon wrote:
On 7/31/2012 7:11 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 7/31/2012 3:34 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 12:19:02 -0400, Bill wrote:

Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 8:19 PM, Bill wrote:

Do you think an application of Johnson's paste wax improve the
durability of the (satin) finish? Since it's going to be my custom
honing strop, I would like to be able to wipe the "black muck"
off of
it.

Wax on bare wood will improve water resistance for a bit.

I mainly use wax as a lubricant. I use it to make drawers, with out
mechanical slides, slide easier. And that tends to last a long
time. I
also use it to lube screws.

Thanks, I think I can put that information to use (I was thinking of
adding a drawer or two to my new woodbench). For now, I need to go
play
with drywall compound--I seem to resist it, despite how much fun it
is.
; )

Got a wet shop vac and a P100 respirator? sigh Water really helps
trap the nasty, superfine dust.

I'm glad I sprung for the *vacuum* drywall sander! I've had better luck
with shop vac "bags", than water, though I tried water first.

Based on reading another post, I am going to upgrade my shop vac filter
to one of the better/best green ones (~$30, at Sears) for this task. I
wear an N95 rated dust mask for this and many other tasks.

After doing some other yardwork today, I decided to postpone my drywall
work until the conditions are more humane--perhaps after dark.

Here is a related question I had: Is the shop vac filter only there to
filter the air it outputs for the sake of the user, or does it protect
the unit (in any way)? For instance, if I'm vacuuming wet leaves (the
eave troughs), is there any benefit to using a filter?

Generally if the filter gets dirty quickly the filter is there to
protect the motor and then you, somewhat. Better vacs will draw the
debris directly into a filter bag and will have a secondary filter that
typically stays very very clean. These type typically do not loose
suction until the filter bag is 98 % full and ready to be tossed. The
secondary filter will still be quite clean.



Mine is a Craftsman.
http://c.shld.net/assets/own/00917066e.pdf

I just looked at the manual again, and it suggested removing the filter
when vacuuming large amounts of water (I never have). That doesn't
completely answer the question, but I think it is consistent with what
you wrote. I'll keep using the filters!

Let me say another way, typically if the vac filter is directly exposed
to the debris it is intended to protect the motor first, you second. The
secondary filters in addition to the debris going straight into the
collection bag typically are designed to protect you.

No secondary filters here.





I'm sure it's not as quiet as a Festool, but if it broke I would replace
it with the same model. Maybe I'll try hooking it to a TS when I get
one! : )

You probably will not be satisfied with a shop vac, any brand, connected
to a TS. You really need the volume that a DC offers. TS's have
numerous air paths which pretty much make a shop vac ineffective.

Okay. Thank you for making me aware of that. I wasn't sure.

Bill wrote:

Using the green Chrome Oxide honing compound, black muck is created
when honing. I'm not sure whether genuine swarf is created or not. It
probably is, but I'm not familiar enough with the term.


FWIW, I've been using straight razors for 60 years. I've occasionally used
a compound - not chrome oxide - but with or without I've never had any muck
of any color. I wouldn't expect any...honing is more to straighten/lay the
edge than for removing material.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 7/31/2012 11:26 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:

Actually no Larry. I really do not care if you or CW plonk me. Your
opinions of yourselves are quite overrated when you believe that anyone
really cares about your plonking stuff. Do as you wish.

As my pool buddies would say, tap, tap.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 7/31/2012 11:35 AM, Leon wrote:
On 7/31/2012 10:24 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:

Mike said you talk out your ass. He said ass. ;~)

So go stain and poly him. That'll fix his ass. I said Ass! ;~)

Man - tha't an awful lot of asses around here...

Tha't is. you said Tha't. ;~) Welcome to my style of typing!

Tap! Tap!

Tha'ts 4 taps in 2 posts.

Thinks are looking up.
--

Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

dadiOH wrote:
Bill wrote:

Using the green Chrome Oxide honing compound, black muck is created
when honing. I'm not sure whether genuine swarf is created or not. It
probably is, but I'm not familiar enough with the term.


FWIW, I've been using straight razors for 60 years. I've occasionally used
a compound - not chrome oxide - but with or without I've never had any muck
of any color. I wouldn't expect any...honing is more to straighten/lay the
edge than for removing material.

Most of the woodcarvers I know are carving basswood, so a lot of metal
does not need to be removed from their knives. I have been assured that
the honing compound IS removing material. I don't claim any further
expertise on the matter.

Regards,
Bill

Bill wrote:
dadiOH wrote:
Bill wrote:

Using the green Chrome Oxide honing compound, black muck is created
when honing. I'm not sure whether genuine swarf is created or not. It
probably is, but I'm not familiar enough with the term.


FWIW, I've been using straight razors for 60 years. I've occasionally
used
a compound - not chrome oxide - but with or without I've never had any
muck
of any color. I wouldn't expect any...honing is more to
straighten/lay the
edge than for removing material.

You can see the black stuff I'm talking about at the beginning of this
video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPCpvD_dCAE

For honing carving knives, it evidentally comes with the territory.
The strop I made is prettier! : )

Bill



Most of the woodcarvers I know are carving basswood, so a lot of metal
does not need to be removed from their knives. I have been assured that
the honing compound IS removing material. I don't claim any further
expertise on the matter.

Regards,
Bill

"Bill" wrote in message ...

Bill wrote:
dadiOH wrote:
Bill wrote:

Using the green Chrome Oxide honing compound, black muck is created
when honing. I'm not sure whether genuine swarf is created or not. It
probably is, but I'm not familiar enough with the term.


FWIW, I've been using straight razors for 60 years. I've occasionally
used
a compound - not chrome oxide - but with or without I've never had any
muck
of any color. I wouldn't expect any...honing is more to
straighten/lay the
edge than for removing material.

You can see the black stuff I'm talking about at the beginning of this
video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPCpvD_dCAE

For honing carving knives, it evidentally comes with the territory.
The strop I made is prettier! : )

Bill



Most of the woodcarvers I know are carving basswood, so a lot of metal
does not need to be removed from their knives. I have been assured that
the honing compound IS removing material. I don't claim any further
expertise on the matter.

Regards,
Bill

On 7/31/2012 4:34 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 12:19:02 -0400, Bill wrote:

Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 8:19 PM, Bill wrote:

Do you think an application of Johnson's paste wax improve the
durability of the (satin) finish? Since it's going to be my custom
honing strop, I would like to be able to wipe the "black muck" off of
it.

Wax on bare wood will improve water resistance for a bit.

I mainly use wax as a lubricant. I use it to make drawers, with out
mechanical slides, slide easier. And that tends to last a long time. I
also use it to lube screws.

Thanks, I think I can put that information to use (I was thinking of
adding a drawer or two to my new woodbench). For now, I need to go play
with drywall compound--I seem to resist it, despite how much fun it is.
; )

Got a wet shop vac and a P100 respirator? sigh Water really helps
trap the nasty, superfine dust.

I'm glad I sprung for the *vacuum* drywall sander! I've had better luck
with shop vac "bags", than water, though I tried water first.

Based on reading another post, I am going to upgrade my shop vac filter
to one of the better/best green ones (~$30, at Sears) for this task. I
wear an N95 rated dust mask for this and many other tasks.

After doing some other yardwork today, I decided to postpone my drywall
work until the conditions are more humane--perhaps after dark.

Here is a related question I had: Is the shop vac filter only there to
filter the air it outputs for the sake of the user, or does it protect
the unit (in any way)? For instance, if I'm vacuuming wet leaves (the
eave troughs), is there any benefit to using a filter?

Bill



--
When we are planning for posterity, we ought
to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh)




You should have gotten the water unit. Its a bucket that the vac hooks
to. Then it goes to a sanding pad. The drywall drops to the bucket
(filled with water) and prevents the filter from clogging.

I have one and after listening to the wife really complain about the
dust, went out and got the better unit with a really long hose.

So glad I did. I have loaned it out about a dozen times and everyone has
the same reaction.... WOW!!!!

"Bill" wrote in message ...


You can see the black stuff I'm talking about at the beginning of this
video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPCpvD_dCAE

For honing carving knives, it evidentally comes with the territory.
The strop I made is prettier! : )
================================================== ====================
If you are using a good polishing compound on the strop, it will turn black.
If it doesn't, your compound is not cutting. Unlike a stone though, it does
not run off and become a mess. It sticks to the strop. My strop has compound
on one side and bare leather on the other. Contrary to popular belief, bare
leather does remove metal,although very very slowly.

tiredofspam wrote:
On 7/31/2012 4:34 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 12:19:02 -0400, Bill wrote:

Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 8:19 PM, Bill wrote:

Do you think an application of Johnson's paste wax improve the
durability of the (satin) finish? Since it's going to be my custom
honing strop, I would like to be able to wipe the "black muck" off of
it.

Wax on bare wood will improve water resistance for a bit.

I mainly use wax as a lubricant. I use it to make drawers, with out
mechanical slides, slide easier. And that tends to last a long
time. I
also use it to lube screws.

Thanks, I think I can put that information to use (I was thinking of
adding a drawer or two to my new woodbench). For now, I need to go
play
with drywall compound--I seem to resist it, despite how much fun it is.
; )

Got a wet shop vac and a P100 respirator? sigh Water really helps
trap the nasty, superfine dust.

I'm glad I sprung for the *vacuum* drywall sander! I've had better luck
with shop vac "bags", than water, though I tried water first.

Based on reading another post, I am going to upgrade my shop vac filter
to one of the better/best green ones (~$30, at Sears) for this task. I
wear an N95 rated dust mask for this and many other tasks.

After doing some other yardwork today, I decided to postpone my drywall
work until the conditions are more humane--perhaps after dark.

Here is a related question I had: Is the shop vac filter only there to
filter the air it outputs for the sake of the user, or does it protect
the unit (in any way)? For instance, if I'm vacuuming wet leaves (the
eave troughs), is there any benefit to using a filter?

Bill



--
When we are planning for posterity, we ought
to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh)




You should have gotten the water unit. Its a bucket that the vac hooks
to. Then it goes to a sanding pad. The drywall drops to the bucket
(filled with water) and prevents the filter from clogging.

Using a vacuum bag inside the shop vac, the filter doesn't clog at all.
The directions for the sander suggested, as an alternative to a vacuum
bag, to put a few inches of water inside the shop vac. I found that DID
result in a clogged filter.
My reaction to the way mine works is still the same as yours: WOW!

My only further comment is the cost is higher than the price of the
sander ($45), because I still had to buy a 1 1/4" hose ($15), adapter
($4), and bags (2 for $17). Yes, I keep track of my purchases on a
spreadsheet! You'd still be buying sanding screens whether doing
with a vacuum sander or not. I think it's still a good value, I'm just
providing information. In all fairness, this is the "bottom end" of such
sanders, it is getting the job done, and I am impressed with the
results--the connection of the hose to the sander not so much (but it's
nothing I can't maintain with duct tape).

Reminding me of the "Best bang for 10 bucks" thread, the profit margin
the sanding unit above must be darn impressive!

Bill




I have one and after listening to the wife really complain about the
dust, went out and got the better unit with a really long hose.

So glad I did. I have loaned it out about a dozen times and everyone has
the same reaction.... WOW!!!!

On Wed, 01 Aug 2012 11:14:41 -0400, Bill wrote:

dadiOH wrote:
Bill wrote:

Using the green Chrome Oxide honing compound, black muck is created
when honing. I'm not sure whether genuine swarf is created or not. It
probably is, but I'm not familiar enough with the term.


FWIW, I've been using straight razors for 60 years. I've occasionally used
a compound - not chrome oxide - but with or without I've never had any muck
of any color. I wouldn't expect any...honing is more to straighten/lay the
edge than for removing material.

Most of the woodcarvers I know are carving basswood, so a lot of metal
does not need to be removed from their knives. I have been assured that
the honing compound IS removing material. I don't claim any further
expertise on the matter.

Green compound is a _polishing_ compound more than anything, so it
removes very little metal. Got that pic yet?

--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

On Wed, 1 Aug 2012 09:46:46 -0700, "CW" wrote:



"Bill" wrote in message ...

Bill wrote:
dadiOH wrote:
Bill wrote:

Using the green Chrome Oxide honing compound, black muck is created
when honing. I'm not sure whether genuine swarf is created or not. It
probably is, but I'm not familiar enough with the term.


FWIW, I've been using straight razors for 60 years. I've occasionally
used
a compound - not chrome oxide - but with or without I've never had any
muck
of any color. I wouldn't expect any...honing is more to
straighten/lay the
edge than for removing material.

You can see the black stuff I'm talking about at the beginning of this
video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPCpvD_dCAE

Yeah, and that has at least a -decade- of metal, finger oils, dust,
rust, shop oils, etc. on it by the time that video was shot.

--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 01 Aug 2012 11:14:41 -0400, Bill wrote:

dadiOH wrote:
Bill wrote:

Using the green Chrome Oxide honing compound, black muck is created
when honing. I'm not sure whether genuine swarf is created or not. It
probably is, but I'm not familiar enough with the term.


FWIW, I've been using straight razors for 60 years. I've occasionally used
a compound - not chrome oxide - but with or without I've never had any muck
of any color. I wouldn't expect any...honing is more to straighten/lay the
edge than for removing material.

Most of the woodcarvers I know are carving basswood, so a lot of metal
does not need to be removed from their knives. I have been assured that
the honing compound IS removing material. I don't claim any further
expertise on the matter.

Green compound is a _polishing_ compound more than anything, so it
removes very little metal. Got that pic yet?

It removes enough to keep the knives sharp. What is your point?



--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

On Wed, 01 Aug 2012 23:13:34 -0400, Bill wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 01 Aug 2012 11:14:41 -0400, Bill wrote:

dadiOH wrote:
Bill wrote:

Using the green Chrome Oxide honing compound, black muck is created
when honing. I'm not sure whether genuine swarf is created or not. It
probably is, but I'm not familiar enough with the term.


FWIW, I've been using straight razors for 60 years. I've occasionally used
a compound - not chrome oxide - but with or without I've never had any muck
of any color. I wouldn't expect any...honing is more to straighten/lay the
edge than for removing material.

Most of the woodcarvers I know are carving basswood, so a lot of metal
does not need to be removed from their knives. I have been assured that
the honing compound IS removing material. I don't claim any further
expertise on the matter.

Green compound is a _polishing_ compound more than anything, so it
removes very little metal. Got that pic yet?

It removes enough to keep the knives sharp. What is your point?

I'm still trying to figure out what your source of "black muck" is.

--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

On 8/1/2012 1:33 PM, Bill wrote:
tiredofspam wrote:
On 7/31/2012 4:34 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jul 2012 12:19:02 -0400, Bill wrote:

Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 8:19 PM, Bill wrote:

Do you think an application of Johnson's paste wax improve the
durability of the (satin) finish? Since it's going to be my custom
honing strop, I would like to be able to wipe the "black muck"
off of
it.

Wax on bare wood will improve water resistance for a bit.

I mainly use wax as a lubricant. I use it to make drawers, with out
mechanical slides, slide easier. And that tends to last a long
time. I
also use it to lube screws.

Thanks, I think I can put that information to use (I was thinking of
adding a drawer or two to my new woodbench). For now, I need to go
play
with drywall compound--I seem to resist it, despite how much fun it
is.
; )

Got a wet shop vac and a P100 respirator? sigh Water really helps
trap the nasty, superfine dust.

I'm glad I sprung for the *vacuum* drywall sander! I've had better luck
with shop vac "bags", than water, though I tried water first.

Based on reading another post, I am going to upgrade my shop vac filter
to one of the better/best green ones (~$30, at Sears) for this task. I
wear an N95 rated dust mask for this and many other tasks.

After doing some other yardwork today, I decided to postpone my drywall
work until the conditions are more humane--perhaps after dark.

Here is a related question I had: Is the shop vac filter only there to
filter the air it outputs for the sake of the user, or does it protect
the unit (in any way)? For instance, if I'm vacuuming wet leaves (the
eave troughs), is there any benefit to using a filter?

Bill



--
When we are planning for posterity, we ought
to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
-- Thomas Paine

(comparing Paine to the current CONgress deep sigh)




You should have gotten the water unit. Its a bucket that the vac hooks
to. Then it goes to a sanding pad. The drywall drops to the bucket
(filled with water) and prevents the filter from clogging.

Using a vacuum bag inside the shop vac, the filter doesn't clog at all.
The directions for the sander suggested, as an alternative to a vacuum
bag, to put a few inches of water inside the shop vac. I found that DID
result in a clogged filter.
My reaction to the way mine works is still the same as yours: WOW!

My only further comment is the cost is higher than the price of the
sander ($45), because I still had to buy a 1 1/4" hose ($15), adapter
($4), and bags (2 for $17). Yes, I keep track of my purchases on a
spreadsheet! You'd still be buying sanding screens whether doing
with a vacuum sander or not. I think it's still a good value, I'm just
providing information. In all fairness, this is the "bottom end" of such
sanders, it is getting the job done, and I am impressed with the
results--the connection of the hose to the sander not so much (but it's
nothing I can't maintain with duct tape).

Reminding me of the "Best bang for 10 bucks" thread, the profit margin
the sanding unit above must be darn impressive!

Bill




I have one and after listening to the wife really complain about the
dust, went out and got the better unit with a really long hose.

So glad I did. I have loaned it out about a dozen times and everyone has
the same reaction.... WOW!!!!


Putting water in the vac is not the same as what I have.
Glad that the bag works well. I am surprised.

Just for info:

The unit that I have is the http://www.sandkleen.com/products.htm
MT800... excellent, one weakness is the sanding block. Don't drop it
from 7.5 feet. It will break the handle off, but that is easily glued
back with either C/A or epoxy with a little carbon fiber.

If you view the manual you can see how the hosing works inside the
bucket. so the dust is placed in the water, not in the air like your vac
... The 20 foot hose was great.. glad I went for the longer hose.

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 01 Aug 2012 23:13:34 -0400, Bill wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 01 Aug 2012 11:14:41 -0400, Bill wrote:

dadiOH wrote:
Bill wrote:

Using the green Chrome Oxide honing compound, black muck is created
when honing. I'm not sure whether genuine swarf is created or not. It
probably is, but I'm not familiar enough with the term.


FWIW, I've been using straight razors for 60 years. I've occasionally used
a compound - not chrome oxide - but with or without I've never had any muck
of any color. I wouldn't expect any...honing is more to straighten/lay the
edge than for removing material.

Most of the woodcarvers I know are carving basswood, so a lot of metal
does not need to be removed from their knives. I have been assured that
the honing compound IS removing material. I don't claim any further
expertise on the matter.

Green compound is a _polishing_ compound more than anything, so it
removes very little metal. Got that pic yet?

It removes enough to keep the knives sharp. What is your point?

I'm still trying to figure out what your source of "black muck" is.

It's pretty popular stuff so I suspect I could answer is in range. I'll
suspect Doug Miller could provide a good explanation if he might be
reading. I also suspect a little metal goes a long way in creating
black muck from the honing compound.


--
Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult,
whereas I am merely in disguise.
-- Margaret Atwood

Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 5:08 PM, Bill wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 02:14:51 -0400, Bill wrote:

I just tried poly (Minwax wipe-on) for the first time.



Don't worry about the "nibs" until you are finished. Then rub it all
down with a paper sack or printer paper.



I sanded very lightly with 600 grit following the 2nd coat (and several
days), and applied the 3rd coat. I noticed a blemish (1" by 1/4")
created either by the blue nitrile gloves or by the sand paper. It is
still visible following the 4th coat which I applied without sanding first.

My thinking is that I should give it 24 hours or more to set, and then
go back to the blemish with the 600 grit (I have up to 2000 grit). Is
this the right strategy, or is this likely to just make the blemish bigger?

Thanks,
Bill

On 8/3/2012 2:35 AM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 5:08 PM, Bill wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 02:14:51 -0400, Bill wrote:

I just tried poly (Minwax wipe-on) for the first time.



Don't worry about the "nibs" until you are finished. Then rub it all
down with a paper sack or printer paper.



I sanded very lightly with 600 grit following the 2nd coat (and several
days), and applied the 3rd coat. I noticed a blemish (1" by 1/4")
created either by the blue nitrile gloves or by the sand paper. It is
still visible following the 4th coat which I applied without sanding first.

My thinking is that I should give it 24 hours or more to set, and then
go back to the blemish with the 600 grit (I have up to 2000 grit). Is
this the right strategy, or is this likely to just make the blemish bigger?

Thanks,
Bill

Define blemish.

On 8/3/2012 3:35 AM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 5:08 PM, Bill wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 02:14:51 -0400, Bill wrote:

I just tried poly (Minwax wipe-on) for the first time.



Don't worry about the "nibs" until you are finished. Then rub it all
down with a paper sack or printer paper.



I sanded very lightly with 600 grit following the 2nd coat (and several
days), and applied the 3rd coat. I noticed a blemish (1" by 1/4")
created either by the blue nitrile gloves or by the sand paper. It is
still visible following the 4th coat which I applied without sanding first.

My thinking is that I should give it 24 hours or more to set, and then
go back to the blemish with the 600 grit (I have up to 2000 grit). Is
this the right strategy, or is this likely to just make the blemish bigger?

Thanks,
Bill

No..
600 is for wet sanding a final finish.

2000 is way overkill.. used for the glossiest of finishes (especially
when I was building model airplanes)... and great for tool edging.

If you have a blemish what kind?

if it is a fish eye or rough patch, sand with 220 or 320 to knock it
down and put a new layer on after cleaning. If it is deep, you will need
to use 180 to 220 to take it down a layer or 2.. then reapply your finish...

BTW you can reduce fish eyes with a fish eye killer. I got mine from an
auto paint shop years ago. Now we have no auto paint supply shops where
I live now. You can probably get some at a good paint store.

I think mine was Raja fish eye killer. I can't read the label anymore.
1 drop per pint - quart (already thinned) that's all thats required..
it'll last you a long time.

Leon wrote:
On 8/3/2012 2:35 AM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 7/30/2012 5:08 PM, Bill wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jul 2012 02:14:51 -0400, Bill wrote:

I just tried poly (Minwax wipe-on) for the first time.



Don't worry about the "nibs" until you are finished. Then rub it all
down with a paper sack or printer paper.



I sanded very lightly with 600 grit following the 2nd coat (and several
days), and applied the 3rd coat. I noticed a blemish (1" by 1/4")
created either by the blue nitrile gloves or by the sand paper. It is
still visible following the 4th coat which I applied without sanding
first.

My thinking is that I should give it 24 hours or more to set, and then
go back to the blemish with the 600 grit (I have up to 2000 grit). Is
this the right strategy, or is this likely to just make the blemish
bigger?

Thanks,
Bill

Define blemish.

I took 2 pictures to describe "blemish" and put them on my web page:
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

My guess is that they were caused by "sandpaper damage". I was pretty
gentle though, using 600-grit with water. Hmmm..I was thinking that
would be gentler than "dry", but now I'm not sure.

Can you suggest to me the best way to pretty-her back up?

Bill

Bill wrote:

I sanded very lightly with 600 grit following the 2nd coat (and
several days), and applied the 3rd coat. I noticed a blemish (1"
by 1/4") created either by the blue nitrile gloves or by the sand
paper. It is still visible following the 4th coat which I applied
without sanding first.

My thinking is that I should give it 24 hours or more to set, and
then go back to the blemish with the 600 grit (I have up to 2000
grit). Is this the right strategy, or is this likely to just make
the blemish bigger?

Thanks,
Bill

Define blemish.

I took 2 pictures to describe "blemish" and put them on my web page:
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

My guess is that they were caused by "sandpaper damage". I was pretty
gentle though, using 600-grit with water. Hmmm..I was thinking that
would be gentler than "dry", but now I'm not sure.

Can you suggest to me the best way to pretty-her back up?


Hard to tell for sure from the picture Bill, but it looks like a low spot to
me. If you it it lightly with 600, you will likely just go over the higher
surrounding spots and not even touch the low spot, resulting in what I think
I see. To minimize it, try taking some 600 and just roughing up that divot
(it that is what it is...). Then refinish. Or - if you want really flat,
take a paint stick and wrap your 600 around it. Then go over the area until
you level it out. That's what we do to get car panels dead level.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

I sanded very lightly with 600 grit following the 2nd coat (and
several days), and applied the 3rd coat. I noticed a blemish (1"
by 1/4") created either by the blue nitrile gloves or by the sand
paper. It is still visible following the 4th coat which I applied
without sanding first.

My thinking is that I should give it 24 hours or more to set, and
then go back to the blemish with the 600 grit (I have up to 2000
grit). Is this the right strategy, or is this likely to just make
the blemish bigger?

Thanks,
Bill

Define blemish.

I took 2 pictures to describe "blemish" and put them on my web page:
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

My guess is that they were caused by "sandpaper damage". I was pretty
gentle though, using 600-grit with water. Hmmm..I was thinking that
would be gentler than "dry", but now I'm not sure.

Can you suggest to me the best way to pretty-her back up?


Hard to tell for sure from the picture Bill, but it looks like a low spot to
me.

Yes, it's now a low spot, but it was not low until I passed sandpaper
over it after the 2nd coat. I think (what you're saying) is that I want
to sand the "edges" of the divot I created. Maybe steel wool?

I have to wait the "customary 24 hours", before I sand anyway, so I'll
see what others suggest too. It's not like there is a lot at stake
here, as I could sand all of the finish off in a few minutes (just
losing my "finishing time")--but I'd like to try to fix it as a matter
of principle. Time==Money, I doubt most pros would start over.

Thanks,
Bill






If you it it lightly with 600, you will likely just go over the higher
surrounding spots and not even touch the low spot, resulting in what I think
I see. To minimize it, try taking some 600 and just roughing up that divot
(it that is what it is...). Then refinish. Or - if you want really flat,
take a paint stick and wrap your 600 around it. Then go over the area until
you level it out. That's what we do to get car panels dead level.

On 8/3/2012 2:19 PM, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

I sanded very lightly with 600 grit following the 2nd coat (and
several days), and applied the 3rd coat. I noticed a blemish (1"
by 1/4") created either by the blue nitrile gloves or by the sand
paper. It is still visible following the 4th coat which I applied
without sanding first.

My thinking is that I should give it 24 hours or more to set, and
then go back to the blemish with the 600 grit (I have up to 2000
grit). Is this the right strategy, or is this likely to just make
the blemish bigger?

Thanks,
Bill

Define blemish.

I took 2 pictures to describe "blemish" and put them on my web page:
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

My guess is that they were caused by "sandpaper damage". I was pretty
gentle though, using 600-grit with water. Hmmm..I was thinking that
would be gentler than "dry", but now I'm not sure.

Can you suggest to me the best way to pretty-her back up?


Hard to tell for sure from the picture Bill, but it looks like a low
spot to
me.

Yes, it's now a low spot, but it was not low until I passed sandpaper
over it after the 2nd coat. I think (what you're saying) is that I want
to sand the "edges" of the divot I created. Maybe steel wool?

Uh huh, and exactly why I do not advocate sanding between coats unless
the product indicates light scuff.






I have to wait the "customary 24 hours", before I sand anyway, so I'll
see what others suggest too. It's not like there is a lot at stake
here, as I could sand all of the finish off in a few minutes (just
losing my "finishing time")--but I'd like to try to fix it as a matter
of principle. Time==Money, I doubt most pros would start over.

I would sand it all smooth and start over. Lesson learned.

As a matter of principal, don't wast any more time, start over with the
finish.

Bill wrote:


Yes, it's now a low spot, but it was not low until I passed sandpaper
over it after the 2nd coat. I think (what you're saying) is that I
want to sand the "edges" of the divot I created. Maybe steel wool?

No - do not use steel wool. Use more of the same sandpaper that you had
used, but be careful not to let your finger pressure create divots. Use the
pads of your fingers and light pressure. Let time at work be your friend,
and not pressure - until you get a handle on this stuff. Or - like I said,
use a paint stick or a sanding block to get it back to flat. Until you
learn the pressure in your fingers, you are best to use a block. Even after
you do learn this, you will want to use a block. I still use blocks and
sticks to level out a surface, and I have a lot of experience at this stuff.


I have to wait the "customary 24 hours", before I sand anyway, so I'll
see what others suggest too. It's not like there is a lot at stake
here, as I could sand all of the finish off in a few minutes (just
losing my "finishing time")--but I'd like to try to fix it as a matter
of principle. Time==Money, I doubt most pros would start over.

You could use steel wool or something else (scotch pads) to get down into
the divot, but you'll still have a divot, and that's why I suggest the
things I do above.


--

-Mike-
.

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:


Yes, it's now a low spot, but it was not low until I passed sandpaper
over it after the 2nd coat. I think (what you're saying) is that I
want to sand the "edges" of the divot I created. Maybe steel wool?

No - do not use steel wool. Use more of the same sandpaper that you had
used, but be careful not to let your finger pressure create divots. Use the
pads of your fingers and light pressure. Let time at work be your friend,
and not pressure - until you get a handle on this stuff. Or - like I said,
use a paint stick or a sanding block to get it back to flat. Until you
learn the pressure in your fingers, you are best to use a block. Even after
you do learn this, you will want to use a block. I still use blocks and
sticks to level out a surface, and I have a lot of experience at this stuff.


I have to wait the "customary 24 hours", before I sand anyway, so I'll
see what others suggest too. It's not like there is a lot at stake
here, as I could sand all of the finish off in a few minutes (just
losing my "finishing time")--but I'd like to try to fix it as a matter
of principle. Time==Money, I doubt most pros would start over.

You could use steel wool or something else (scotch pads) to get down into
the divot, but you'll still have a divot, and that's why I suggest the
things I do above.


Yes, I think I'll start over like Leon suggested. Now that I have a
grasp of the procedure I ought to be able to put on coats pretty fast.

In the meantime, I am going to play with drywall compound. I will share
a little secret which greatly improved my taping: Dunk the length of
paper tape in a bucket of water (I shake it off real well). While this
may add an unnecessary step for a pro, it permits amateurs to obtain
100% success--no bubbles or other defects, or at least a lot fewer of
them! Try it next time you have to retape a joint, or sooner!

Bill