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Metal Router Table Top
Has anyone ever tried a Steel or Aluminum top in their shop made
router table. I will probably go with MDF again, but I have a bunch of friend who are sell metal. I'm guessing you wouldn't need to thick of a guage to hang a router under there. 1/4" of steel plate or sheet would probably be overkill. Not sure how much a 2' x 2' piece would weigh though. Just a random thought. My double laminated, double layers MDF top sagged a bit and the rail and stiles on the doors I just make fit accordingly. My fault for never building a proper stand. Saw horses are good until you finish the cabinet, but not a long term solution. Chuck |
#2
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Metal Router Table Top
Like this ????
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...rency=1&S ID= WoodChuck34 wrote: Has anyone ever tried a Steel or Aluminum top in their shop made router table. I will probably go with MDF again, but I have a bunch of friend who are sell metal. I'm guessing you wouldn't need to thick of a guage to hang a router under there. 1/4" of steel plate or sheet would probably be overkill. Not sure how much a 2' x 2' piece would weigh though. |
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Metal Router Table Top
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#4
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Metal Router Table Top
Pat Barber wrote:
Like this ???? http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...rency=1&S ID= WoodChuck34 wrote: Has anyone ever tried a Steel or Aluminum top in their shop made router table. I will probably go with MDF again, but I have a bunch of friend who are sell metal. I'm guessing you wouldn't need to thick of a guage to hang a router under there. 1/4" of steel plate or sheet would probably be overkill. Not sure how much a 2' x 2' piece would weigh though. Steel would be find if you don't mind the weight, have the tools to work it, and bear in mind that dropping a carbide bit on a steel table is more likely to chip the carbide than dropping it on a wood or MDF table--since router bits are changed more frequently than saw blades this is a real issue. Just make sure you have it well grounded. -- --John Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#5
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Metal Router Table Top
Pat Barber wrote in message ...
Like this ???? http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...rency=1&S ID= Pat, Yes, almost exactly like that except I wouldn't pay $200 for a piece of steel I could probably get for $20. Chuck |
#6
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Metal Router Table Top
"J. Clarke" wrote in message ...
Pat Barber wrote: Like this ???? http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...rency=1&S ID= WoodChuck34 wrote: Has anyone ever tried a Steel or Aluminum top in their shop made router table. I will probably go with MDF again, but I have a bunch of friend who are sell metal. I'm guessing you wouldn't need to thick of a guage to hang a router under there. 1/4" of steel plate or sheet would probably be overkill. Not sure how much a 2' x 2' piece would weigh though. Steel would be find if you don't mind the weight, have the tools to work it, and bear in mind that dropping a carbide bit on a steel table is more likely to chip the carbide than dropping it on a wood or MDF table--since router bits are changed more frequently than saw blades this is a real issue. Just make sure you have it well grounded. Good point on grounding, I wouldn't have thought of that. The other idea I had is a steel plate with a single layer of MDF on top. I'm looking to eliminate sagging. chuck |
#7
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Metal Router Table Top
That's a better choice in my opinion. In fact
several folks in years past have mentioned using angle iron on the bottom. I suspect the angle would do just as well as a steel plate. Two pieces of 3/4" MDF will not start sagging "right away"... WoodChuck34 wrote: Good point on grounding, I wouldn't have thought of that. The other idea I had is a steel plate with a single layer of MDF on top. I'm looking to eliminate sagging. chuck |
#8
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Metal Router Table Top
On 29-Jul-2004, Pat Barber wrote:
I suspect the angle would do just as well as a steel plate. If you don't care about the weight, that's true. However, if you want to keep the weight down, almost any other combination will do better than a steel plate. A hardwood frame under the MDF will stiffen the MDF just as well as steel but with less weight. Pound for pound, if you get carried away and make hardwood-framed, MDF-skinned torsion box, it will be way stiffer than a steel plate or steel angle backed MDF sheet. It ain't the material, it's how you use it. Mike |
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Metal Router Table Top
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#10
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Metal Router Table Top
WoodChuck34 wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message ... Pat Barber wrote: Like this ???? http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...rency=1&S ID= WoodChuck34 wrote: Has anyone ever tried a Steel or Aluminum top in their shop made router table. I will probably go with MDF again, but I have a bunch of friend who are sell metal. I'm guessing you wouldn't need to thick of a guage to hang a router under there. 1/4" of steel plate or sheet would probably be overkill. Not sure how much a 2' x 2' piece would weigh though. Steel would be find if you don't mind the weight, have the tools to work it, and bear in mind that dropping a carbide bit on a steel table is more likely to chip the carbide than dropping it on a wood or MDF table--since router bits are changed more frequently than saw blades this is a real issue. Just make sure you have it well grounded. Good point on grounding, I wouldn't have thought of that. The other idea I had is a steel plate with a single layer of MDF on top. I'm looking to eliminate sagging. There's a design floating around for a top that has some steel bar stock in it for stiffening. chuck -- --John Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#11
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Metal Router Table Top
I started with the metal base from a Sears router table - threw away the
cast aluminum top and fence as useless. Put on two rails using heavy angle iron salvaged from an old bed frame. The top is commercial - 1"MDF with laminate on both sides. No sign of any sag using a large router in a router lift. Weight was not a consideration. I built drawers into the base and put the whole thing on a mobile base. John Pat Barber wrote: That's a better choice in my opinion. In fact several folks in years past have mentioned using angle iron on the bottom. I suspect the angle would do just as well as a steel plate. Two pieces of 3/4" MDF will not start sagging "right away"... WoodChuck34 wrote: Good point on grounding, I wouldn't have thought of that. The other idea I had is a steel plate with a single layer of MDF on top. I'm looking to eliminate sagging. chuck |
#12
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Metal Router Table Top
It's the router clamping system, the inserts, and coining you pay for, and,
given how well it all works, you're getting a bargain. Rob ----------------------------- "WoodChuck34" wrote ... Yes, almost exactly like that except I wouldn't pay $200 for a piece of steel I could probably get for $20. |
#13
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Metal Router Table Top
http://www.metalsdepot.com/index.phtml
I got a chunk of 3/8 aluminum one foot square and made my own table insert. The 6 inches or so from the bit seems to be enough flat area to allow nice raised panel work. Table deflection vs size. I looked up some engineering formulas. If a given weight deflects a beam .005" and you double the length of the beam, the deflection goes up a factor 8 to 0.04. I.E. it is important to supply support close to the weight as it is a 3rd power law. Greg |
#14
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Metal Router Table Top
Table deflection vs size. I looked up some engineering formulas. If a
given weight deflects a beam .005" and you double the length of the beam, the deflection goes up a factor 8 to 0.04. I.E. it is important to supply support close to the weight as it is a 3rd power law. Or you could just make it extra stiffy underneath. UA100, extra stiffy underneath... |
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