http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E7300

I noticed this stuff at my local Home Depot the other day, and it looks like
it's probably Elmer's answer to Titebond III. I love Titebond III, but I don't
love the price, and the Elmer's product is a good dollar or more cheaper for a
pint bottle. Has anybody used this product, and if so how do you like it?

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In article , Steve Turner
wrote:

I noticed this stuff at my local Home Depot the other day, and it looks like
it's probably Elmer's answer to Titebond III. I love Titebond III, but I
don't
love the price, and the Elmer's product is a good dollar or more cheaper for
a
pint bottle. Has anybody used this product, and if so how do you like it?

I've used it and had no problems, even under load.

--
Woodworking and more at http://www.woodenwabbits.com

I've used it and had no problems, even under load.

Same here. I used it to glue up a jewelry box after 2-3 fat ones and a
pint of fine Scotch. I did get a DUI later but the box came out OK.

i have used a lot of it. When they first started carrying it, the
price difference was even larger, so I used it on some glue lam beams
that were site built. (LOTS of glue, LOTS of mess, 100 clamps...)

It saved me a bunch of money when the price difference on a gallon was
something like $15. Locally, (YMMV) a gallon is still about that much
different when comparing the two. Since it has been out a while, the
price has closed, especially on the smaller bottles. A look this
afternoon revealed $2 a bottle difference in the 16 oz package.
Honestly, I can't tell any difference between performance.

I cannot believe I found this (it's so old it has mold on it!):

http://www.diyprojects.info/bb/ftopic70.html

See how many names you recognize after you read the posts. (Leon....
is that you?)

Check out post #18 here... since you do fine woodwork, if it is true,
it may be of some value:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...s-Elmers/page2

I have used Elmers for about 3 or 4 years now (they don't always have
it in stock) since my big beam, and for all manner of repairs big and
small. Never had a hitch. My tightfisted squarehead upbringing won't
let me buy Titebond anymore... especially since it is as much as $2 a
pint difference here.

As a side benefit, there are some videos somewhere on the internet
that compare stainability of TBIII and Elmer's max. I can tell you
personally Elmer's is more stainable than TB and stains more evenly,
but still, it is just stained glue. You won't mistake it for wood
grain.

Robert

On 1/10/2012 1:38 AM, wrote:
i have used a lot of it. When they first started carrying it, the
price difference was even larger, so I used it on some glue lam beams
that were site built. (LOTS of glue, LOTS of mess, 100 clamps...)

It saved me a bunch of money when the price difference on a gallon was
something like $15. Locally, (YMMV) a gallon is still about that much
different when comparing the two. Since it has been out a while, the
price has closed, especially on the smaller bottles. A look this
afternoon revealed $2 a bottle difference in the 16 oz package.
Honestly, I can't tell any difference between performance.

Thanks Robert; it's always good to hear your perspective! :-)

I don't take on very many projects and I'm a pretty slow and methodical worker,
so I don't buy glue in very large quantities. I bought a gallon of TBII once,
but it went bad before I could get it all used up, and these days I usually buy
quarts. I've been using Titebond III for most everything I do, not because
it's waterproof (I really couldn't care less about that), but because I like
the texture, the color, and the slightly longer open time, and in my experience
it seems as strong or stronger than Titebond II. However, I don't like the
fact that (compared to TBII) it seems to have solids that separate and settle
to the bottom of the container over time. You need to keep the stuff agitated
or it turns into a gloppy mess. Titebond II never did that for me. Wondering
how the Elmer's product will fare in this regard.

I started off with a fresh quart of Titebond III on my current rocking chair
project
(http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...833292&type=3),
and this thing has gobbled up a LOT of glue because both the rockers and the
back braces are laminated, so I'm just about out of this batch. I have another
chair waiting in the wings, and on this one I want to try the Elmer's Wood Glue
Max. It's good to hear you've had such positive results with it; I look
forward to trying it out.

--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Jan 10, 8:32*am, Steve Turner
wrote:

I don't take on very many projects and I'm a pretty slow and methodical worker,
so I don't buy glue in very large quantities.

I RARELY buy a gallon of glue. Thinking here as I am typing, almost
never. But buying two gallons of it gave me *plenty* left over to put
in old dish detergent bottles to keep in the truck for miscellaneous
use. Otherwise, I would probably have had the opportunity to use it
on so many things.

I bought a gallon of TBII once,
but it went bad before I could get it all used up, and these days I usually buy
quarts. *I've been using Titebond III for most everything I do, not because
it's waterproof (I really couldn't care less about that), but because I like
the texture, the color, and the slightly longer open time, and in my experience
it seems as strong or stronger than Titebond II.

Check out that link above. It seems that TB3 is not as strong as
TB2. I have read that in other venues, and even seen other tests that
seem to suggest that. I can't remember how long ago that was, and it
is entirely possible that the Titebond family has changed formulas.
That being said, I have never had a Titebond adhesive joint fail
regardless of the numeric designation.

However, I don't like the
fact that (compared to TBII) it seems to have solids that separate and settle
to the bottom of the container over time. *You need to keep the stuff agitated
or it turns into a gloppy mess. *Titebond II never did that for me. *Wondering
how the Elmer's product will fare in this regard.

Yeah... what is that stuff in the TB3? One of my amigos (a suspicious
fellow, really...) told me that it was some kind of solids to provide
better joint filling, hence less resin, resulting in a less strong
joint than with TB2. Take that for what it is worth. But personally,
I don't to make sure my glue is properly mixed up before I use it.

You need to keep the stuff agitated
or it turns into a gloppy mess. Titebond II never did that for me. Wondering
how the Elmer's product will fare in this regard.

After a couple of months in the tool box of my truck in South Texas
sunshine TB2 will get almost gel like. The first time, I threw the
bottle away and bought another. But the second time that happened, I
called the 800 # on the bottle and actually talked to a guy in
support. He told me that as long as it had no hard lumps or pieces in
it, I could use it with no problem. I did and there were no
problems. However, when it turns to gel there is a dramatically
shorter window for work time. Adding a tiny bit of water will get it
back to its original viscosity, but the work time is still much
shorter than fresh.

So far, no problem with the Elmer's. This was a pretty long, brutal
summer, but the Elmers hung on. It *seems* a bit thicker, but spreads
fine.

I started off with a fresh quart of Titebond III on my current rocking chair
project
(http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...71101.740....),
and this thing has gobbled up a LOT of glue because both the rockers and the
back braces are laminated, so I'm just about out of this batch.

Hey... not good! I love looking at your chairs and the link doesn't
work. ; (

I haven't seen any of your work in a while. All I am doing these days
is repair work, so I live vicariously through you, Karl, Leon, and a
couple of others.

(As a sidebar, I got to see Leon's new pantry/buffet over the
Christmas holidays. WOW.... the man is an artist. Literally,
gorgeous work. Didn't see anything new from Karl as he had already
installed the giant desk he built earlier in the month. Saw the
pictures, though. Most impressive. And then when you see the shop he
built it in... he had to go out one shop door and walk around the
building to get to the other side of the desk!)

It's good to hear you've had such positive results with it; I look
forward to trying it out.

Post up some rocker pictures!

Let me know what you think of the Elmer's.

Robert

On 1/10/2012 1:38 AM, wrote:
i have used a lot of it. When they first started carrying it, the
price difference was even larger, so I used it on some glue lam beams
that were site built. (LOTS of glue, LOTS of mess, 100 clamps...)

It saved me a bunch of money when the price difference on a gallon was
something like $15. Locally, (YMMV) a gallon is still about that much
different when comparing the two. Since it has been out a while, the
price has closed, especially on the smaller bottles. A look this
afternoon revealed $2 a bottle difference in the 16 oz package.
Honestly, I can't tell any difference between performance.

I cannot believe I found this (it's so old it has mold on it!):

http://www.diyprojects.info/bb/ftopic70.html

See how many names you recognize after you read the posts. (Leon....
is that you?)


YES! LOL

On 1/8/2012 9:09 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E7300

I noticed this stuff at my local Home Depot the other day, and it looks
like it's probably Elmer's answer to Titebond III. I love Titebond III,
but I don't love the price, and the Elmer's product is a good dollar or
more cheaper for a pint bottle. Has anybody used this product, and if so
how do you like it?

Looks like; haven't seen it locally yet.

There's really no reason to use Type III unless you really need either
a) The extra waterproof (+) feature, or
b) The lower chalk temperature.

Otherwise, you're just paying the premium for no reason over Type II or
even the old original Type I.

When was using a _lot_, I was buying the "Ol' Yeller" altho I notice the
price differential isn't what it used to be for it, either.

http://woodworker.com/olyeller-wood-glue-mssu-909-293.asp

(+) Don't be confused by the "waterproof" designation. It means it
passes the ANSI Type I Standard, but that may not be what you think it
means. I'll not quote the Standard here, you can look it up, but
basically it means it'll stand occasional wet but isn't waterproof in
the sense that most think of in common English definitions. If you need
that, _then_ is when you need another adhesive; polyurethane,
resorcinal, epoxy, whatever....

--

On 1/10/2012 1:01 PM, dpb wrote:
On 1/8/2012 9:09 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E7300

I noticed this stuff at my local Home Depot the other day, and it looks
like it's probably Elmer's answer to Titebond III. I love Titebond III,
but I don't love the price, and the Elmer's product is a good dollar or
more cheaper for a pint bottle. Has anybody used this product, and if so
how do you like it?

Looks like; haven't seen it locally yet.

There's really no reason to use Type III unless you really need either
a) The extra waterproof (+) feature, or
b) The lower chalk temperature.

Otherwise, you're just paying the premium for no reason over Type II or
even the old original Type I.

When was using a _lot_, I was buying the "Ol' Yeller" altho I notice the
price differential isn't what it used to be for it, either.

http://woodworker.com/olyeller-wood-glue-mssu-909-293.asp

(+) Don't be confused by the "waterproof" designation. It means it
passes the ANSI Type I Standard, but that may not be what you think it
means. I'll not quote the Standard here, you can look it up, but
basically it means it'll stand occasional wet but isn't waterproof in
the sense that most think of in common English definitions. If you need
that, _then_ is when you need another adhesive; polyurethane,
resorcinal, epoxy, whatever....

Precisely concerning the so called "water proof" TBIII. It is good glue
but several years ago Wood magazine did a test of many types of glues.
TBII out performed TBIII in the water tests. I questioned Franklin
about that and they simply regurgitated the "special" conditions that
let a glue company get away with claiming water proof.
IIRC it has a slightly longer open time compared to TBII.

I only use TBIII when I am using darker colored wood, oak and darker. I
use Gorilla White glue on light colored woods like maple.

On 1/11/2012 7:29 AM, Leon wrote:
....

Precisely concerning the so called "water proof" TBIII. It is good glue
but several years ago Wood magazine did a test of many types of glues.
TBII out performed TBIII in the water tests. I questioned Franklin about
that and they simply regurgitated the "special" conditions that let a
glue company get away with claiming water proof.
....

Well, they claim it passes the ANSI Standard and that Type II doesn't.
There are a defined set of procedures in the Standards. Elmer's makes
the same claim(s) on their new "MAX" wood glue.

If TBII "outperformed" TBIII on some other test protocol, that means
only that the particular test regimen was more suited to the former and
not the latter; not that there's anything wrong w/ the product or the
claim.

The Standards are what they are and were developed for specific reasons.
It's probably (undoubtedly?) true that the manufacturers have perverted
those reasons some for marketing purposes, granted.

--

On 1/11/2012 8:05 AM, dpb wrote:
On 1/11/2012 7:29 AM, Leon wrote:
...

Precisely concerning the so called "water proof" TBIII. It is good glue
but several years ago Wood magazine did a test of many types of glues.
TBII out performed TBIII in the water tests. I questioned Franklin about
that and they simply regurgitated the "special" conditions that let a
glue company get away with claiming water proof.
...

Well, they claim it passes the ANSI Standard and that Type II doesn't.
There are a defined set of procedures in the Standards. Elmer's makes
the same claim(s) on their new "MAX" wood glue.

If TBII "outperformed" TBIII on some other test protocol, that means
only that the particular test regimen was more suited to the former and
not the latter; not that there's anything wrong w/ the product or the
claim.

The Standards are what they are and were developed for specific reasons.
It's probably (undoubtedly?) true that the manufacturers have perverted
those reasons some for marketing purposes, granted.

--

I would not have a problem with the tests if they described degrees of
water resistance and not actually call the product water proof.

On 1/11/2012 8:09 AM, Leon wrote:
....

I would not have a problem with the tests if they described degrees of
water resistance and not actually call the product water proof.

Well, I don't know what "degrees of water resistance" is, either. I can
go read the ANSI Standard test protocols.

--