I went "shopping" in my Dad's garage again. I have a sticky door at
home and figured I could use a plane to shave it down a hair. The
plane hasn't been used in a long time and has a little surface rust. I
was thinking about scotch-brite, steel wool, maybe noxon. Any better
ideas?

On 7/28/2011 8:50 PM, wrote:
I went "shopping" in my Dad's garage again. I have a sticky door at
home and figured I could use a plane to shave it down a hair. The
plane hasn't been used in a long time and has a little surface rust. I
was thinking about scotch-brite, steel wool, maybe noxon. Any better
ideas?

Here is a trick that is out side the box. In an inconspicuous area put
a drop of Titebond glue on the rusted surface. Let it dry a few hours
and remove the glue. I quite often get drops of glue on the top of my
cast iron TS top and when I remove the glue the surface looks "brand new".

On Thu, 28 Jul 2011 18:50:46 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

I went "shopping" in my Dad's garage again. I have a sticky door at
home and figured I could use a plane to shave it down a hair. The
plane hasn't been used in a long time and has a little surface rust. I
was thinking about scotch-brite, steel wool, maybe noxon. Any better
ideas?

For light rust removal, I use a piece of green or grey scotch-brite with a dab
of oil or WD40, whichever is closest at hand. Paste wax to prevent rust
returning.

For light film rust like on handsaws or large planes I use a razor blade to
lightly scrape the flat areas. Blunt the corners on a stone so there is no
sharp edges. You can scrape an awful lot of the rust off. Be careful not to
gouge the metal. I use one of the razor blade holders Hyde used to make for
scraping paint off of windows back in the day there were wooden windows. With
the heft of it off, you can now sand it, dissolve it with vinegar (don't leave
too long or it will etch), citric acid (I haven't tried CA), Evaporust (good
stuff but $) or get fancy and take up the hobby of electrolysis.

All these are well covered in the Google archive of rec.woodworking, and a
regular google search will turn up a few hundred thousand hits. Here's a great
starting place. Should keep you busy reading for a few hours.

http://www.wkfinetools.com/index.asp


Regards,
Roy

On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 01:13:42 -0500, Roy
wrote:

On Thu, 28 Jul 2011 18:50:46 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

I went "shopping" in my Dad's garage again. I have a sticky door at
home and figured I could use a plane to shave it down a hair. The
plane hasn't been used in a long time and has a little surface rust. I
was thinking about scotch-brite, steel wool, maybe noxon. Any better
ideas?

For light rust removal, I use a piece of green or grey scotch-brite with a dab
of oil or WD40, whichever is closest at hand. Paste wax to prevent rust
returning.

For light film rust like on handsaws or large planes I use a razor blade to
lightly scrape the flat areas. Blunt the corners on a stone so there is no
sharp edges. You can scrape an awful lot of the rust off. Be careful not to
gouge the metal. I use one of the razor blade holders Hyde used to make for
scraping paint off of windows back in the day there were wooden windows. With
the heft of it off, you can now sand it, dissolve it with vinegar (don't leave
too long or it will etch), citric acid (I haven't tried CA), Evaporust (good
stuff but $) or get fancy and take up the hobby of electrolysis.

All these are well covered in the Google archive of rec.woodworking, and a
regular google search will turn up a few hundred thousand hits. Here's a great
starting place. Should keep you busy reading for a few hours.

http://www.wkfinetools.com/index.asp


Regards,
Roy
Black Strap molassas and water will work almost as well as evaporust.

On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:31:17 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 01:13:42 -0500, Roy
wrote:

On Thu, 28 Jul 2011 18:50:46 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

I went "shopping" in my Dad's garage again. I have a sticky door at
home and figured I could use a plane to shave it down a hair. The
plane hasn't been used in a long time and has a little surface rust. I
was thinking about scotch-brite, steel wool, maybe noxon. Any better
ideas?

For light rust removal, I use a piece of green or grey scotch-brite with a dab
of oil or WD40, whichever is closest at hand. Paste wax to prevent rust
returning.

For light film rust like on handsaws or large planes I use a razor blade to
lightly scrape the flat areas. Blunt the corners on a stone so there is no
sharp edges. You can scrape an awful lot of the rust off. Be careful not to
gouge the metal. I use one of the razor blade holders Hyde used to make for
scraping paint off of windows back in the day there were wooden windows. With
the heft of it off, you can now sand it, dissolve it with vinegar (don't leave
too long or it will etch), citric acid (I haven't tried CA), Evaporust (good
stuff but $) or get fancy and take up the hobby of electrolysis.

All these are well covered in the Google archive of rec.woodworking, and a
regular google search will turn up a few hundred thousand hits. Here's a great
starting place. Should keep you busy reading for a few hours.

http://www.wkfinetools.com/index.asp


Regards,
Roy
Black Strap molassas and water will work almost as well as evaporust.

What proportions do you recommend? I have not tried it, but IIRC the sulphur in
the molasses acts as a chealating agent. Here's an interesting link on it I
pulled from the Oldtools list. Never heard of dried molasses before.

http://www.massmopar.com/Files/340sa...os/photo1.html



Evaporust runs $20/gallon from Tractor Supply. I'm on my second gallon even
though it is reusable. I strongly suggest you keep it in a tightly sealed
container when in use, just so some clumsy oaf can't stumble over it causing a
sudden fall and of course spilling every drop of the elixir. Happened to a guy
who lives near me.

Regards,
Roy

On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:43:02 -0500, Roy
wrote:

On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:31:17 -0400, wrote:

On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 01:13:42 -0500, Roy
wrote:

On Thu, 28 Jul 2011 18:50:46 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

I went "shopping" in my Dad's garage again. I have a sticky door at
home and figured I could use a plane to shave it down a hair. The
plane hasn't been used in a long time and has a little surface rust. I
was thinking about scotch-brite, steel wool, maybe noxon. Any better
ideas?

For light rust removal, I use a piece of green or grey scotch-brite with a dab
of oil or WD40, whichever is closest at hand. Paste wax to prevent rust
returning.

For light film rust like on handsaws or large planes I use a razor blade to
lightly scrape the flat areas. Blunt the corners on a stone so there is no
sharp edges. You can scrape an awful lot of the rust off. Be careful not to
gouge the metal. I use one of the razor blade holders Hyde used to make for
scraping paint off of windows back in the day there were wooden windows. With
the heft of it off, you can now sand it, dissolve it with vinegar (don't leave
too long or it will etch), citric acid (I haven't tried CA), Evaporust (good
stuff but $) or get fancy and take up the hobby of electrolysis.

All these are well covered in the Google archive of rec.woodworking, and a
regular google search will turn up a few hundred thousand hits. Here's a great
starting place. Should keep you busy reading for a few hours.

http://www.wkfinetools.com/index.asp


Regards,
Roy
Black Strap molassas and water will work almost as well as evaporust.

What proportions do you recommend?

3.5 to 10 parts water to one part molasses.
It's a combination, apparently of the chelating action and the acetic
acid produced by the fermentation (which causes the "head" on the
mixture)

I have not tried it, but IIRC the sulphur in
the molasses acts as a chealating agent. Here's an interesting link on it I
pulled from the Oldtools list. Never heard of dried molasses before.

http://www.massmopar.com/Files/340sa...os/photo1.html



Evaporust runs $20/gallon from Tractor Supply. I'm on my second gallon even
though it is reusable. I strongly suggest you keep it in a tightly sealed
container when in use, just so some clumsy oaf can't stumble over it causing a
sudden fall and of course spilling every drop of the elixir. Happened to a guy
who lives near me.

Regards,
Roy

On Jul 28, 9:50*pm, " wrote:
I went "shopping" in my Dad's garage again. I have a sticky door at
home and figured I could use a plane to shave it down a hair. The
plane hasn't been used in a long time and has a little surface rust. I
was thinking about scotch-brite, steel wool, maybe noxon. Any better
ideas?

_Light_ surface rust can be removed by using the tool.

I went "shopping" in my Dad's garage again. I have a sticky door at
home and figured I could use a plane to shave it down a hair. The
plane hasn't been used in a long time and has a little surface rust. I
was thinking about scotch-brite, steel wool, maybe noxon. Any better
ideas?


Evaporust runs $20/gallon from Tractor Supply. I'm on my second gallon even
though it is reusable. I strongly suggest you keep it in a tightly sealed
container when in use, just so some clumsy oaf can't stumble over it causing a
sudden fall and of course spilling every drop of the elixir. Happened to a guy
who lives near me.
Regards,
Roy

I second the Evaporust. I used it on two Stanley planes and it worked
perfectly. Took only a few hours to clean everything and it evens
leaves a protective coating to prevent rust, although only a
short-term coating (6-8 weeks depending on handling).

I've used Evaporust on several old and new items and can't imagine
cleaning rust, especially heavy rust, any other way.

Good luck!

On Jul 28, 8:50*pm, " wrote:
I went "shopping" in my Dad's garage again. I have a sticky door at
home and figured I could use a plane to shave it down a hair. The
plane hasn't been used in a long time and has a little surface rust. I
was thinking about scotch-brite, steel wool, maybe noxon. Any better
ideas?

Nothing beats blasting with walnut shells or plastic pellets, glass
beads in more severe cases. Equipment is getting less $$ these days,
even home made outfits are a good shop tool.

Joe

On 7/30/2011 9:01 AM, Casper wrote:
I went "shopping" in my Dad's garage again. I have a sticky door at
home and figured I could use a plane to shave it down a hair. The
plane hasn't been used in a long time and has a little surface rust. I
was thinking about scotch-brite, steel wool, maybe noxon. Any better
ideas?

I've used Evaporust on several old and new items and can't imagine
cleaning rust, especially heavy rust, any other way.

I bought Evaporust on recommendations from people here. I can't imagine
anyone recommending the stuff. It takes forever to touch even light
rust. For light rust WD40 and steel wool should work For heavy rust,
I've found nothing that touches Naval Jelly. That stuff works fast and
removes all rust fast with no damage to the metal other than damage the
rust may have already done. I've seen people in here trash Naval Jelly,
fortunately, I'd used it too many times and know how well it works.

For light rust on a hand plane, I'd try WD40 or similar and steel wool,
clean when finished with lacquer thinner or similar, then spray with
some TopCote or similar. If that didn't work, I'd replace WD40 with
Naval Jelly, and lacquer thinner with water, and repeat.

--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

On Sat, 30 Jul 2011 11:34:51 -0400, Jack Stein wrote:

I bought Evaporust on recommendations from people here. I can't imagine
anyone recommending the stuff. It takes forever to touch even light
rust.
For light rust WD40 and steel wool should work For heavy rust, I've
found nothing that touches Naval Jelly. That stuff works fast and
removes all rust fast with no damage to the metal other than damage the
rust may have already done.

Another possibility. I've had pretty good luck with a solution of salt
in vinegar. Just keep adding salt till the vinegar won't absorb any
more. IIRC, you wind up with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid.

Just be sure to oil or wax the tool as soon as you remove it from its
soak and dry it off. Otherwise new rust will start forming almost
instantly.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 7/30/11 11:40 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 30 Jul 2011 11:34:51 -0400, Jack Stein wrote:

I bought Evaporust on recommendations from people here. I can't imagine
anyone recommending the stuff. It takes forever to touch even light
rust.
For light rust WD40 and steel wool should work For heavy rust, I've
found nothing that touches Naval Jelly. That stuff works fast and
removes all rust fast with no damage to the metal other than damage the
rust may have already done.

Another possibility. I've had pretty good luck with a solution of salt
in vinegar. Just keep adding salt till the vinegar won't absorb any
more. IIRC, you wind up with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid.

Just be sure to oil or wax the tool as soon as you remove it from its
soak and dry it off. Otherwise new rust will start forming almost
instantly.


Every time one of these "how to remove rust" threads comes up, it's the
same old run-around. I see everybody posting about WD-40 and a
scotchbrite pad and "a few hours later," or Evaporust "only takes a few
hours," and the same thing with naval jelly.

Then someone comes in and says, "why not just get Boeshield Rust Free
and be done in minutes instead of hours." But people, for whatever
reason, still seem to want to go the rub-n-scrub route, like the elbow
grease makes them feel better for letting the tools get rusty. A rust
penitence of sort. :-)

I'm guessing Naval Jelly is the one thing that comes close because it
also has Phosphoric Acid.

This is the last rust removal thread I'll post in.
You can lead a horse to water...


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Light oil, some steel wool. Mineral spirits afterwards to clean up the
mess. Lightly oil to keep it from happening again. I live on the DE
shore about 3 miles in from the Atlantic Ocean. Salt air is not your
friend here. I wipe down tools with an oiled rag about every six
months or so. Ditto with firearms, bright work on bicycles, etc.

/paul W3FIS

On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 22:35:21 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
wrote:

On Jul 28, 9:50*pm, " wrote:
I went "shopping" in my Dad's garage again. I have a sticky door at
home and figured I could use a plane to shave it down a hair. The
plane hasn't been used in a long time and has a little surface rust. I
was thinking about scotch-brite, steel wool, maybe noxon. Any better
ideas?

_Light_ surface rust can be removed by using the tool.


BINGBINGBINGBINGBING!!

We have a winner for best answer!

Roy wrote in
:

On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 22:35:21 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
wrote:

On Jul 28, 9:50*pm, " wrote:
I went "shopping" in my Dad's garage again. I have a sticky door at
home and figured I could use a plane to shave it down a hair. The
plane hasn't been used in a long time and has a little surface rust.
I was thinking about scotch-brite, steel wool, maybe noxon. Any
better ideas?

_Light_ surface rust can be removed by using the tool.


BINGBINGBINGBINGBING!!

We have a winner for best answer!


+1


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Roy wrote:
On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 22:35:21 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
wrote:

On Jul 28, 9:50 pm, " wrote:
I went "shopping" in my Dad's garage again. I have a sticky door at
home and figured I could use a plane to shave it down a hair. The
plane hasn't been used in a long time and has a little surface
rust. I was thinking about scotch-brite, steel wool, maybe noxon.
Any better ideas?

_Light_ surface rust can be removed by using the tool.


BINGBINGBINGBINGBING!!

We have a winner for best answer!

Nah... I liked the answer that suggested using a sandblaster. But then
again - I'm in favor of machine guns for woodchuck hunting...

--

-Mike-

"Stuart" wrote in message
...
In article ,
-MIKE- wrote:
Every time one of these "how to remove rust" threads comes up, it's the
same old run-around. I see everybody posting about WD-40 and a
scotchbrite pad and "a few hours later," or Evaporust "only takes a few
hours," and the same thing with naval jelly.

Then someone comes in and says, "why not just get Boeshield Rust Free
and be done in minutes instead of hours." But people, for whatever
reason, still seem to want to go the rub-n-scrub route, like the elbow
grease makes them feel better for letting the tools get rusty. A rust
penitence of sort. :-)

Yup but don't wally about, get stuck in with the powered wire brushes and
do the job properly.

I'm having a break at the moment and I've mentioned it before but I'm a
volunteer with:

http://www.twam.co.uk/

I spend a lot of time refurbishing old planes, I've up-loaded some pics
he

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...rtwinsor/Plane

For some reason photobucket has the pic I uploaded first, of the plane
when it arrived at number 8 and when I'd finished with it, at No 4

The set also shows some of the tools used. The angle grinder and wire cup
bush is used on all flat surfaces but do use proper PPE. Eye protection is
absolutely essential.

--
Stuart Winsor

Midland RISC OS show - Sat July 9th 2011

http://mug.riscos.org/show11/MUGshow.html



Nice, I've been restoring old tools, engines, farm equipment for a long
time. I rarely use naval jelly anymore, I have a 8 inch diameter course wire
brush in a bench motor running 1800 rpm and use that 99 percent of the time
on everything. Works perfectly.

On 7/31/2011 3:13 AM, bw wrote:

Nice, I've been restoring old tools, engines, farm equipment for a long
time. I rarely use naval jelly anymore, I have a 8 inch diameter course wire
brush in a bench motor running 1800 rpm and use that 99 percent of the time
on everything. Works perfectly.

Yes, I have exactly the same thing on an old 1800 rpm washing machine
motor. I use a fairly soft wire wheel and I use it on everything small
enough to hold to the wheel. On a hand plane with light rust, that is
what I would use.

Naval jelly is rarely needed but it seems to store forever. I've had
some on the shelf for around 15 years, and just the other day used it to
clean some heavy rust off the bottom plate of a hand truck that was
heavily rusted. Worked great and easily.

At any rate, Evaporust, imo, is next to worthless.

--
Jack
Got Change: Global Warming ====== Global Fraud!
http://jbstein.com

On 7/30/2011 1:08 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Every time one of these "how to remove rust" threads comes up, it's the
same old run-around. I see everybody posting about WD-40 and a
scotchbrite pad and "a few hours later," or Evaporust "only takes a few
hours," and the same thing with naval jelly.

Then someone comes in and says, "why not just get Boeshield Rust Free
and be done in minutes instead of hours." But people, for whatever
reason, still seem to want to go the rub-n-scrub route, like the elbow
grease makes them feel better for letting the tools get rusty. A rust
penitence of sort. :-)

I'm guessing Naval Jelly is the one thing that comes close because it
also has Phosphoric Acid.

I never used Boeshield but naval jelly has been around forever. It
works great, but I'm open to suggestions, so someday might try Boeshield
on your recommendation. If I do, I'll certainly let everyone know my
thoughts next time the subject comes up. I'd love to hear comparisons,
wouldn't you?

This is the last rust removal thread I'll post in.
You can lead a horse to water...

Thing is, there are new horses and new water holes all the time. People
are not born with infinite knowledge and you never know when you might
learn something. I learned Evaporust was worthless, I tried it, it
sucks the big one. I don't mind sharing what I've learned, or learning
what someone else learned. What amazes me is that someone would claim
Evaporust had value, unless his hand was in an Evaporust pocket?

If you think Boeshield is good, there is no reason to stop mentioning it
when the subject comes up. Myself, I think Evaporust is worthless
enough to mention it every time someone touts it.

--
Jack
Got Change: And the Change SUCKS!
http://jbstein.com

On Sat, 30 Jul 2011 12:08:34 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

On 7/30/11 11:40 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 30 Jul 2011 11:34:51 -0400, Jack Stein wrote:

I bought Evaporust on recommendations from people here. I can't imagine
anyone recommending the stuff. It takes forever to touch even light
rust.
For light rust WD40 and steel wool should work For heavy rust, I've
found nothing that touches Naval Jelly. That stuff works fast and
removes all rust fast with no damage to the metal other than damage the
rust may have already done.

Another possibility. I've had pretty good luck with a solution of salt
in vinegar. Just keep adding salt till the vinegar won't absorb any
more. IIRC, you wind up with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid.

Just be sure to oil or wax the tool as soon as you remove it from its
soak and dry it off. Otherwise new rust will start forming almost
instantly.


Every time one of these "how to remove rust" threads comes up, it's the
same old run-around. I see everybody posting about WD-40 and a
scotchbrite pad and "a few hours later," or Evaporust "only takes a few
hours," and the same thing with naval jelly.

Then someone comes in and says, "why not just get Boeshield Rust Free
and be done in minutes instead of hours." But people, for whatever
reason, still seem to want to go the rub-n-scrub route, like the elbow
grease makes them feel better for letting the tools get rusty. A rust
penitence of sort. :-)

I'm guessing Naval Jelly is the one thing that comes close because it
also has Phosphoric Acid.

This is the last rust removal thread I'll post in.
You can lead a horse to water...

I just noticed some surface rust on the business surfaces of my Biesemeyer TS
fence tube. I just sprayed them with a little Boeshield and it wiped right
off. I can still see where it was, I suppose because it pitted the surface a
little. I might do the table after it cools off a little this evening.

On 7/31/11 7:51 AM, Jack Stein wrote:
On 7/30/2011 1:08 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Every time one of these "how to remove rust" threads comes up, it's the
same old run-around. I see everybody posting about WD-40 and a
scotchbrite pad and "a few hours later," or Evaporust "only takes a few
hours," and the same thing with naval jelly.

Then someone comes in and says, "why not just get Boeshield Rust Free
and be done in minutes instead of hours." But people, for whatever
reason, still seem to want to go the rub-n-scrub route, like the elbow
grease makes them feel better for letting the tools get rusty. A rust
penitence of sort. :-)

I'm guessing Naval Jelly is the one thing that comes close because it
also has Phosphoric Acid.

I never used Boeshield but naval jelly has been around forever. It works
great, but I'm open to suggestions, so someday might try Boeshield on
your recommendation. If I do, I'll certainly let everyone know my
thoughts next time the subject comes up. I'd love to hear comparisons,
wouldn't you?

This is the last rust removal thread I'll post in.
You can lead a horse to water...

Thing is, there are new horses and new water holes all the time. People
are not born with infinite knowledge and you never know when you might
learn something. I learned Evaporust was worthless, I tried it, it sucks
the big one. I don't mind sharing what I've learned, or learning what
someone else learned. What amazes me is that someone would claim
Evaporust had value, unless his hand was in an Evaporust pocket?

If you think Boeshield is good, there is no reason to stop mentioning it
when the subject comes up. Myself, I think Evaporust is worthless enough
to mention it every time someone touts it.


Absolutely. I'm hesitant to criticize Naal Jelly because,
a. I haven't used it and
b. it has the same active ingredient.

Most post was mainly aimed at the guys who still use stuff like WD-40
and a scratch pad and 3hrs of elbow grease (I hope they know it's the
elbow grease and not the WD-40.... may as well be using cooking spray
or kerosene), or some other product that has to soak for 3hrs.

The whole waxing and buffing out a saw top is beyond me, too. I'd rather
be making stuff with my tools in those 3hrs than working on my tools for
3hrs.

I'm honestly not discounting, however, the therapeutic effect of
listening to the radio, doing a mindless tasks with ones hands for an
extended period of time.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sun, 31 Jul 2011 02:13:44 -0500, "bw" wrote:


"Stuart" wrote in message
...
In article ,
-MIKE- wrote:
Every time one of these "how to remove rust" threads comes up, it's the
same old run-around. I see everybody posting about WD-40 and a
scotchbrite pad and "a few hours later," or Evaporust "only takes a few
hours," and the same thing with naval jelly.

Then someone comes in and says, "why not just get Boeshield Rust Free
and be done in minutes instead of hours." But people, for whatever
reason, still seem to want to go the rub-n-scrub route, like the elbow
grease makes them feel better for letting the tools get rusty. A rust
penitence of sort. :-)

Yup but don't wally about, get stuck in with the powered wire brushes and
do the job properly.

I'm having a break at the moment and I've mentioned it before but I'm a
volunteer with:

http://www.twam.co.uk/

I spend a lot of time refurbishing old planes, I've up-loaded some pics
he

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...rtwinsor/Plane

For some reason photobucket has the pic I uploaded first, of the plane
when it arrived at number 8 and when I'd finished with it, at No 4

The set also shows some of the tools used. The angle grinder and wire cup
bush is used on all flat surfaces but do use proper PPE. Eye protection is
absolutely essential.

--
Stuart Winsor

Midland RISC OS show - Sat July 9th 2011

http://mug.riscos.org/show11/MUGshow.html



Nice, I've been restoring old tools, engines, farm equipment for a long
time. I rarely use naval jelly anymore, I have a 8 inch diameter course wire
brush in a bench motor running 1800 rpm and use that 99 percent of the time
on everything. Works perfectly.

One problem with wire brushing to remove rust - it CAN displace metal
over un-removed rust - basically trapping the rust in the surface -
where it WILL come back. Knocking off the loose scale, then using a
chemical remover, followed by a good brushing, is usually best for
cast iron and other rough/porous surfaces.

On Sunday, July 31, 2011 8:51:48 AM UTC-4, Jack Stein wrote:


Thing is, there are new horses and new water holes all the time. People
are not born with infinite knowledge and you never know when you might
learn something.

Exactly. I'm the original poster. I consider myself a pretty bright guy, but one of the most important components of that is knowing what you don't know, and not being afraid to ask about it.

The number of answers has certainly surprised me. I couldn't see them for a while because Google Groups is on the fritz. Thanks to all. Scotch Brite did the trick nicely. The plane was not that badly rusted.

Thanks to all.

Greg Guarino

On 8/3/2011 8:57 AM, wrote:
On Sunday, July 31, 2011 8:51:48 AM UTC-4, Jack Stein wrote:


Thing is, there are new horses and new water holes all the time. People
are not born with infinite knowledge and you never know when you might
learn something.

Exactly. I'm the original poster. I consider myself a pretty bright guy, but one of the most important components of that is knowing what you don't know, and not being afraid to ask about it.

The number of answers has certainly surprised me. I couldn't see them for a while because Google Groups is on the fritz. Thanks to all. Scotch Brite did the trick nicely. The plane was not that badly rusted.

Thanks to all.

You're welcome. You should look for an old motor and put an arbor with
a wire wheel on it. I clean 99.9% of all rust with just a soft wire
wheel on a motor. By soft I mean I take off 4-5 layers of skin when I
contact it. My motor is from an old washing machine I think, it turns
at 1800 rpm. It's one of my most used tools in the shop. Today's
washing machines/dryers have motors w/o a cover, so they don't cut it.
It would clean up your planes with no effort.

Also, once you get it cleaned up, spray some TopCote on it, you will be
happy.

--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

Jack Stein wrote in
:


You're welcome. You should look for an old motor and put an arbor
with a wire wheel on it. I clean 99.9% of all rust with just a soft
wire wheel on a motor. By soft I mean I take off 4-5 layers of skin
when I contact it. My motor is from an old washing machine I think,
it turns at 1800 rpm. It's one of my most used tools in the shop.
Today's washing machines/dryers have motors w/o a cover, so they don't
cut it. It would clean up your planes with no effort.

Also, once you get it cleaned up, spray some TopCote on it, you will
be happy.


Wire wheels are available for bench grinders, so if you've already got a
bench grinder adding the wire wheel is cheap and easy.

I've used the steel wheel attachment on the dremel many times for
cleaning ruts and gunk off of things. One thing I learned is that as
soon as the first bristle flies off, replace the wheel. Others will
follow soon.

Puckdropper

On 8/3/2011 10:03 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Jack Stein wrote:

You're welcome. You should look for an old motor and put an arbor
with a wire wheel on it. I clean 99.9% of all rust with just a soft
wire wheel on a motor. By soft I mean I take off 4-5 layers of skin
when I contact it. My motor is from an old washing machine I think,
it turns at 1800 rpm. It's one of my most used tools in the shop.
Today's washing machines/dryers have motors w/o a cover, so they don't
cut it. It would clean up your planes with no effort.

Also, once you get it cleaned up, spray some TopCote on it, you will
be happy.

Wire wheels are available for bench grinders, so if you've already got a
bench grinder adding the wire wheel is cheap and easy.

I'm too lazy to be changing out wheels on my bench grinder. Also, with
it on an arbor on a motor, the whole wheel is exposed making it easy to
get into nooks and crannies, and odd shapes. When my kid leaves the
horseshoes out half the summer, I can clean them up pretty good. To use
my bench grinder I'd have to take off the wheel, the wheel covers, the
tool rests and so on.

I've used the steel wheel attachment on the dremel many times for
cleaning ruts and gunk off of things. One thing I learned is that as
soon as the first bristle flies off, replace the wheel. Others will
follow soon.

I don't own a dremel, but, I own a body grinder and have been wanting to
by a wire wheel or cup for that for years.

--
Jack
We have enough youth. How about a fountain of "smart"?
http://jbstein.com