Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 23:30:02 -0400, wrote:

A painter I know said "if you clean and re-use your brushes you don't
value your time highly enough" Every job gets a new brush.

I use the cling film trick when a job needs to go from one day to the
next. Also a couple of supermarket bags one from each end and tucked
down over paint trays and rollers.

Cleaning non-water soluable paints etc is a PITA. I'd go for the new
brush everytime if I could find a source of decent brushes at a
sensible price that aren't part of a various sized set.

Try this technique:

1. Swish brush in 100% mineral spirits ten times. Remove excess (I use a
brush spinner).
2. Swish brush in 50-50 mix of mineral spirits and alcohol ten times. Remove
excess.
3. Swish brush in 100% alcohol ten times. Remove excess.

Done.

For latex or water-based paints, add fabric softener to the water in which
you swish the brush.

On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 22:59:26 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 7/5/2011 10:43 PM, wrote:

Rotating is an action, so I assumed it was more than just turning it
over - which would be "inverting" it.

Go up a few posts, the one that states, "store the tins upside down".
Then rotating was mentioned as to the reason to store upside down.

Now throw into the mix that new paint in cases is stored upside down.
Open a case that is right side up and you find upside down paint cans.

*Ach du meine gute!

That could be -catastrophic- to drones in a paint store!



*When translated into English, and spoken with a NYC accent, it reads
"Oh my gawwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwd!"

--
Fear not those who argue but those who dodge.
-- Marie Ebner von Eschenbach

On 6/07/2011 8:42 PM, John Williamson wrote:
Rob wrote:
On 6/07/2011 3:35 PM, John Williamson wrote:
Rob wrote:
On 6/07/2011 1:58 AM, Paul Giverin wrote:
In message , Mrcheerful
writes

so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin
that
can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ?

I've got a few concertina bottles in my darkroom for storing film
developer.
http://www.silverprint.co.uk/media/stock/000009EC.JPG

They will collapse from 1 litre down to about 1/2 litre. Works fine
with
fluid but I'm not sure about gloss paint. Can you imagine trying to
whack the lid on an concertining paint container ;-)


Darkroom - that's on the desktop nowdays.

Ah, now, I'm hoping to move within the next few weeks. The place I
intend moving to has a large, windowless area just the right size for an
enlarger and the associated bits, and I do enjoy messing about with
proper B&W film. Much more satisfying than manipulating bits, IMO.


But will it take a 8"x10" enlarger?

Possibly not, but I don't use bigger than 120 rollfilm, anyway.

I changed in 2003 (shot my last film), my enlargers(2) are still in
the darkroom with a wet bench, colour processor and film processor.

I haven't looked back, better for my health not breathing or touching
chemicals.

I can digitize old film formats, manipulate to any film texture and
print to 24" wide on the Epson printer.

But I'm thinking of resurrecting my 120 panoramic cameras and the E6
processor. i don't like the feel of digital images.

Another excellent reason. Which reminds me...
Takes down Cibachrome print of a windmill in silhouette, and carefully
packs it away for the move later today

I know for a fact that the detail inside the silhouette couldn't
possibly be reproduce on *any* digital printout. Black on darker black,
it is, and *very* subtle.



Well yes they can now - my printer has 4 blacks, three are used at
anyone time, which enable you to reproduce a very good grey scale.(Epson
7900 11 inks) unlike the others that mix colours to imitate black. I
think that the blacks would show better detail than the Ciba, which I
found too contrasty.

r

In message
wrote:

On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 19:45:51 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Been mentioned before, I think.

http://www.brushmate.co.uk/

A painter I know said "if you clean and re-use your brushes you
don't value your time highly enough"
Every job gets a new brush.

He must be made of money unless he uses cheap brushes and by using
cheap throw away brushes how does he produce a decent finish.
This painter can't value his work very much.

Stephen.


--
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
From the Wirral Peninsular.
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce

wrote:

In message
wrote:

On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 19:45:51 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Been mentioned before, I think.

http://www.brushmate.co.uk/

A painter I know said "if you clean and re-use your brushes you
don't value your time highly enough"
Every job gets a new brush.

He must be made of money unless he uses cheap brushes and by using
cheap throw away brushes how does he produce a decent finish.
This painter can't value his work very much.

Stephen.


I buy semi expensive brushes. Can't imagine throwing them away after every
job. It does not take long to clean a brush specially if you use a paint
cleaning comb.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Man. 2010.1 Spring
KDE4.4
2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb

On 7/7/2011 12:21 AM, HeyBub wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 23:30:02 -0400, wrote:

A painter I know said "if you clean and re-use your brushes you don't
value your time highly enough" Every job gets a new brush.

I use the cling film trick when a job needs to go from one day to the
next. Also a couple of supermarket bags one from each end and tucked
down over paint trays and rollers.

Cleaning non-water soluable paints etc is a PITA. I'd go for the new
brush everytime if I could find a source of decent brushes at a
sensible price that aren't part of a various sized set.

Try this technique:

1. Swish brush in 100% mineral spirits ten times. Remove excess (I use a
brush spinner).
2. Swish brush in 50-50 mix of mineral spirits and alcohol ten times. Remove
excess.
3. Swish brush in 100% alcohol ten times. Remove excess.

Don't forget to exhale ten times.

On 7/6/2011 5:28 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/5/11 9:39 AM, RobertL wrote:

Surely the place to put the plastic sheet is lying on top of the
paint. this separates it from the air.

Robert


This is the only good advice you've gotten. The air inside the can is
enough to skin over the paint. Kitchen plastic wrap pushed down into the
can, touching the entire surface of the paint will keep air away from
the paint... then cap the can with the lid.

Works great on ice cream, too, to keep it from crystallizing or getting
freezer burn on the surface.



The only disadvantage (as I pointed out upthread) is that this creates a
bit of a mess when it has to be removed.

Mrcheerful wrote:


so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin
that can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ? or an
inner cup that could be screwed inside the can and would then
effectively raise the bottom surface of the can.

Back in the days before digital cameras, we used to use collapsable plastic
jars for chemicals used to process film and prints. Same reasons - keep the
volume of air contained inside to a minimum.

--

-Mike-

On 7/6/11 5:40 PM, Gib Bogle wrote:
On 7/6/2011 5:28 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/5/11 9:39 AM, RobertL wrote:

Surely the place to put the plastic sheet is lying on top of the
paint. this separates it from the air.

Robert


This is the only good advice you've gotten. The air inside the can is
enough to skin over the paint. Kitchen plastic wrap pushed down into the
can, touching the entire surface of the paint will keep air away from
the paint... then cap the can with the lid.

Works great on ice cream, too, to keep it from crystallizing or getting
freezer burn on the surface.



The only disadvantage (as I pointed out upthread) is that this creates a
bit of a mess when it has to be removed.

Less of a mess than the skin? :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Wed, 6 Jul 2011 08:10:40 +0100, Paul Giverin
wrote:

In message , Rob
writes
On 6/07/2011 1:58 AM, Paul Giverin wrote:
In message , Mrcheerful
writes

so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin that
can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ?

I've got a few concertina bottles in my darkroom for storing film
developer.
http://www.silverprint.co.uk/media/stock/000009EC.JPG

They will collapse from 1 litre down to about 1/2 litre. Works fine with
fluid but I'm not sure about gloss paint. Can you imagine trying to
whack the lid on an concertining paint container ;-)


Darkroom - that's on the desktop nowdays.

Yebbut you can't escape to your desktop and lock the door for the
afternoon.
Sure you can. Put your computer desk in the darkroom.

On Wed, 06 Jul 2011 06:34:37 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 7/6/2011 2:02 AM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 5 Jul 2011 10:36:34 +0000 (UTC), "steve robinson"
wrote:

Huge wrote:

On 2011-07-05, Dave Plowman wrote:
In ,
steve wrote:
The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the
large quantity of new air when you replace the lid.

Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom

Or fill the space with some inert gas?

Store the tins upside down.

Makes no difference once the tin is opened and new air introduced.

Just make sure you use a paint strainer after opening a can the second
time.


This reminds of a question I did not quickly locate the answer to on the
web. I have never bought bought paint in greater than 1 gallon units.
They are easy to shake and pour into paint trays, etc. What is the usual
process for using a *5 gallon* container of paint? I assume it has to be
mixed really well (practical to do by hand?) and that a "paint ladle" of
some sort would be handy.

Bill



The 5 gallons get mixed if you pick a non stock color, but we get them
shook regardless. You pour out of them just as you would a 1 gallon
container, you just have to be more careful and have a paint brush handy
to clean up the drips down the sides. The biggest problem with the 5
gallon buckets is getting the lid off. A 5 in 1 comes in handy for
that. also consider switching from a roller tray to a roller bucket.
With the waste basket style paint buckets for rollers you can easily
dump a gallon of paint into them and not waste time refilling all day
long. We typically refill our roller paint buckets a couple times a day
maybe three times on a long day. Plus they are much easier to carry around.


ALL of the 5 gallon paint pails I've ever bought/used had pour spout
like a 5 gallon pail of oil - so decanting is VERY simple, and
relatively clean. Just a swipe with the paint brush as you stop
pouting, and a quick wipe with a damp (thinners or spirits for oil
paint) rag before replacing the cap.

On Wed, 06 Jul 2011 09:49:07 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 23:30:02 -0400, wrote:

A painter I know said "if you clean and re-use your brushes you don't
value your time highly enough" Every job gets a new brush.

I use the cling film trick when a job needs to go from one day to the
next. Also a couple of supermarket bags one from each end and tucked
down over paint trays and rollers.

Cleaning non-water soluable paints etc is a PITA. I'd go for the new
brush everytime if I could find a source of decent brushes at a
sensible price that aren't part of a various sized set.

What's half an hour of time worth? For a DIY job you can mabee forget
about it - but commercially that buys a pretty decent brush.

For day to day, the cling wrap in the refrigerator works well. And the
same painter, when doing apartments etc - all the same colour - DOES
stretch a brush - uncleaned - that way.

He buys his brushes in bulk from a brush distributor - and his roller
sleeves.

Subject

That's why propane torches and dead weight hammers exist.

Haven't had a can of paint skin over in years.

Lew

On Jul 6, 11:37*pm, Gib Bogle wrote:
On 7/7/2011 12:21 AM, HeyBub wrote:









Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 23:30:02 -0400, wrote:

A painter I know said "if you clean and re-use your brushes you don't
value your time highly enough" Every job gets a new brush.

I use the cling film trick when a job needs to go from one day to the
next. Also a couple of supermarket bags one from each end and tucked
down over paint trays and rollers.

Cleaning non-water soluable paints etc is a PITA. I'd go for the new
brush everytime if I could find a source of decent brushes at a
sensible price that aren't part of a various sized set.

Try this technique:

1. Swish brush in 100% mineral spirits ten times. Remove excess (I use a
brush spinner).
2. Swish brush in 50-50 mix of mineral spirits and alcohol ten times. Remove
excess.
3. Swish brush in 100% alcohol ten times. Remove excess.

Don't forget to exhale ten times.

And spin around three times whilst scratching your ear.

On 7/6/2011 8:21 AM, HeyBub wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote:

Cleaning non-water soluable paints etc is a PITA. I'd go for the new
brush everytime if I could find a source of decent brushes at a
sensible price that aren't part of a various sized set.

For cleaning brushes, a spinner is mandatory. Something like this:

http://tinyurl.com/3dq464p

My method is to use a jar/can just big enough for the brush. Put in a
small amount of solvent and clean out the brush, then spin the brush in
a cardboard box. Dump the small amount of dirty solvent in a different
jar or can. Repeat several times.

Save the old dirty thinner, and next time, all the heavy pigments settle
to the bottom and the old thinner is now clean.. Use the old thinner to
clean next time, only using a bit of new thinner for the last couple of
cleans. This is really easy, uses almost no thinner and really keeps
your brushes nice.

You need 3 cans/jars to do this, one for storing old thinner, one to
clean the brush, and an intermediate one to store the newly dirty
thinner. When done, pour the dirty thinner into the old thinner storage
can. You can use lacquer thinner but lacquer suspends the pigments
forever, while turps or mineral spirits lets the pigments drop to the
bottom, leaving clean thinner.

Don't use your good oil brushes for water based paints (hide them from
your wife). Clean the cheaper plastic water brushes with just water and
the spinner, or throw them away after your wife paints (and never ever
cleans a brush)...

--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

Try this technique:

1. Swish brush in 100% mineral spirits ten times. Remove excess (I use a
brush spinner).
2. Swish brush in 50-50 mix of mineral spirits and alcohol ten times. Remove
excess.
3. Swish brush in 100% alcohol ten times. Remove excess.

Done.

For latex or water-based paints, add fabric softener to the water in which
you swish the brush.




--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

In message
Jack Stein wrote:

On 7/6/2011 8:21 AM, HeyBub wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote:

Cleaning non-water soluable paints etc is a PITA. I'd go for the new
brush everytime if I could find a source of decent brushes at a
sensible price that aren't part of a various sized set.

For cleaning brushes, a spinner is mandatory. Something like this:

http://tinyurl.com/3dq464p

My method is to use a jar/can just big enough for the brush. Put in a
small amount of solvent and clean out the brush, then spin the brush in
a cardboard box. Dump the small amount of dirty solvent in a different
jar or can. Repeat several times.

That works.

Save the old dirty thinner, and next time, all the heavy pigments settle
to the bottom and the old thinner is now clean.. Use the old thinner to
clean next time, only using a bit of new thinner for the last couple of
cleans. This is really easy, uses almost no thinner and really keeps
your brushes nice.

I also save dirty thinners and allow the pigments to settle.

You need 3 cans/jars to do this, one for storing old thinner, one to
clean the brush, and an intermediate one to store the newly dirty
thinner. When done, pour the dirty thinner into the old thinner storage
can. You can use lacquer thinner but lacquer suspends the pigments
forever, while turps or mineral spirits lets the pigments drop to the
bottom, leaving clean thinner.

By Lacquer thinners do you mean Cellulose thinner?
However using Cellulose/Lacquer type thinners will destroy the
natural spring in the brush resulting in a useless floppy brush.

You have described the above method the wrong way round though,
Turps will coagulate the paint whereas Cellulose or as you call it
lacquer thinner will draw the paint completely out of the bristle
stock, as does mineral Naphtha but Naphtha will not destroy the
spring in a natural bristle brush.

Don't use your good oil brushes for water based paints (hide them
from your wife). Clean the cheaper plastic water brushes with
just water and the spinner, or throw them away after your wife
paints (and never ever cleans a brush)...


Stephen.

--
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
From the Wirral Peninsular.
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce

On 7/7/2011 11:51 AM, Jack Stein wrote:
Don't use your good oil brushes for water based paints (hide them from your
wife). Clean the cheaper plastic water brushes with just water and the spinner,
or throw them away after your wife paints (and never ever cleans a brush)...

I heard THAT. I've had more than one $20 Purdy brush ruined by the wife...

--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

In article m,
Lew Hodgett wrote:
Subject

That's why propane torches and dead weight hammers exist.

Haven't had a can of paint skin over in years.

Lew



Dead blow hammers?
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

"Larry W" wrote:

Dead blow hammers?

Plastic non marking hammer with a shot filled head.

Available in bright colors at a low price.

Lew

In article m,
Lew Hodgett wrote:

"Larry W" wrote:

Dead blow hammers?

Plastic non marking hammer with a shot filled head.

Available in bright colors at a low price.

Lew



Never heard the term "dead weight hammer" used to describe a "dead blow
hammer" before, just wanted to make sure I knew what you meant.


--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

I have just been away for a few days so missed the beginning of this tread.

For several years I have been adding gas from my blowtorch to the open can
before firmly replacing the lid. Excluding the air in this way means my part
tins of paint are always usable with no more than a thorough stir. Wiping as
much paint of the rims of both the lid and the tin also helps.

Last weekend I used some very old lead based matt black from a gallon tin I
had not opened for at least 7 years. It took a fair bit of stirring but had
no skin and gave a perfect result. I originally bought the tin of paint from
an MOD surplus dealer for a fiver after the RAF had scrapped it for being
out of date, the use by date on the tin was 1990!!!

Mike

On Jul 5, 9:42*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
wrote:
Air passes through plastic sheet generally less than 4mm thick, but
as a gasket I don't think this applies.

I solve the "air in paint can" problem by filling the can up with
glass marbles to take up the space. I used to do this in my darkroom
for my photo chemicals, but thats long gone! *Glass of course doesn't
react with the paint, and they stay on the bottom. A bonus is as you
shake the can, they stir the paint! (Hold the lid on...)

The only problem at the beginning was raiding enough toy stores to
get a gallon of marbles! *The dollar store was a good find!

You don't need to visit toy stores. Search the web for "marbles wholesale"

Here's one place that sells about 500 5/8" marbles for $28 (500=half-gallon)
(smaller assortments available).

http://www.landofmarbles.com/marble-...sortments.html

Apparently the marble business is highly competitive...

People keep losing them.

On 7/7/2011 2:21 PM, wrote:
In
Jack wrote:

By Lacquer thinners do you mean Cellulose thinner?

I don't know, by lacquer thinner I mean the stuff I used to paint cars
with when I was a kid, and now buy at Home Depot in a can that says
"lacquer thinner" on it.

However using Cellulose/Lacquer type thinners will destroy the
natural spring in the brush resulting in a useless floppy brush.

I believe you but I've used it often. I use lacquer thinner a lot for
all sorts of cleaning things. I just know that when I use mineral
spirits or paint thinner, the pigments settle out, but when I use
lacquer thinner, they seem to remain suspended indefinitely.

You have described the above method the wrong way round though,
Turps will coagulate the paint whereas Cellulose or as you call it
lacquer thinner will draw the paint completely out of the bristle
stock, as does mineral Naphtha but Naphtha will not destroy the
spring in a natural bristle brush.

I guess you are saying to use lacquer for the initial heavy cleaning and
finish up with paint thinner? That would work but Paint thinner works
fine and I can reuse the thinner after the pigments all settle out. I
don't like using used lacquer thinner as it doesn't settle clear, even
after long periods, so I'm throwing out lots of thinner.

I haven't seen or used "turps" since I was a kid. I use paint thinner or
mineral spirits, because that's what I see on the shelves at a
reasonable cost. I don't even know what "Naphtha" is. I've seen the
word used a lot around here, and have looked it up a few times. I still
don't know what it is, and I ain't looking it up again, cause I know
I'll forget anyway. I think Naphtha was some kind of yellow soap when I
was a young?

--
Jack
You can't Tax your way into Prosperity!
http://jbstein.com

On 7/8/2011 7:14 AM, Robatoy wrote:
On Jul 5, 9:42 pm, wrote:
wrote:
Air passes through plastic sheet generally less than 4mm thick, but
as a gasket I don't think this applies.

I solve the "air in paint can" problem by filling the can up with
glass marbles to take up the space. I used to do this in my darkroom
for my photo chemicals, but thats long gone! Glass of course doesn't
react with the paint, and they stay on the bottom. A bonus is as you
shake the can, they stir the paint! (Hold the lid on...)

The only problem at the beginning was raiding enough toy stores to
get a gallon of marbles! The dollar store was a good find!

You don't need to visit toy stores. Search the web for "marbles wholesale"

Here's one place that sells about 500 5/8" marbles for $28 (500=half-gallon)
(smaller assortments available).

http://www.landofmarbles.com/marble-...sortments.html

Apparently the marble business is highly competitive...

People keep losing them.

rimshot

--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On 7/8/2011 8:14 AM, Robatoy wrote:
On Jul 5, 9:42 pm, wrote:

Apparently the marble business is highly competitive...

People keep losing them.

2 points, maybe more...
--
Jack
You're not yourself today, I noticed the improvement immediately!
http://jbstein.com

In message
Jack Stein wrote:

On 7/7/2011 2:21 PM, wrote:
In
Jack wrote:

By Lacquer thinners do you mean Cellulose thinner?

I don't know, by lacquer thinner I mean the stuff I used to paint cars
with when I was a kid, and now buy at Home Depot in a can that says
"lacquer thinner" on it.

You must be from the USA.

Your lacquer thinner will be the same as what we in the UK call
Cellulose thinner which is indeed used in vehicle painting or
spraying.

However using Cellulose/Lacquer type thinners will destroy the
natural spring in the brush resulting in a useless floppy brush.

I believe you but I've used it often. I use lacquer thinner a
lot for all sorts of cleaning things. I just know that when I
use mineral spirits or paint thinner, the pigments settle out,
but when I use lacquer thinner, they seem to remain suspended
indefinitely.

The lacquer/cellulose thinner is a very powerful solvent and has
many uses, I have a five gallon tub of this in my garage.

Mineral spirit is the same as Turps, but in the UK we call it
Turpentine, Turps for short or turps substitute.

You have described the above method the wrong way round though,
Turps will coagulate the paint whereas Cellulose or as you call it
lacquer thinner will draw the paint completely out of the bristle
stock, as does mineral Naphtha but Naphtha will not destroy the
spring in a natural bristle brush.

I guess you are saying to use lacquer for the initial heavy
cleaning and finish up with paint thinner? That would work but
Paint thinner works fine and I can reuse the thinner after the
pigments all settle out. I don't like using used lacquer thinner
as it doesn't settle clear, even after long periods, so I'm
throwing out lots of thinner.

You can use either for the initial cleaning but I find the
cellulose or naphtha more effective at removing the paint from a
brush than turps.

The thinner acts the same way as Naphtha both being very volatile,
the mineral spirit however does not clean a paint brush on its own
by simply standing the brush in the solvent, only after thorough
cleaning the brush is it better served being suspended in mineral
spirit which is almost exactly the same as white spirit that I
believe you would call a Stoddard solvent in the USA.

I haven't seen or used "turps" since I was a kid. I use paint
thinner or mineral spirits, because that's what I see on the
shelves at a reasonable cost. I don't even know what "Naphtha"
is. I've seen the word used a lot around here, and have looked
it up a few times. I still don't know what it is, and I ain't
looking it up again, cause I know I'll forget anyway. I think
Naphtha was some kind of yellow soap when I was a young?

As a reminder from the www,

Naphtha is a term usually restricted to a class of colourless,
volatile, flammable liquid hydrocarbon mixtures. Obtained as one
of the more volatile fractions in the fractional distillation of
petroleum (when it is known as petroleum naphtha), in the
fractional distillation of coal tar (coal-tar naphtha), and in a
similar distillation of wood (wood naphtha), it is used widely as
a solvent for various organic substances, such as fats and rubber,
and in the making of varnish. Because of its dissolving property
it is important as a cleaning fluid; it is also incorporated in
certain laundry soaps. Coal-tar (aromatic) naphthas have greater
solvent power than petroleum (aliphatic) naphthas.
Originally the term naphtha designated a colourless flammable
liquid obtained from the ground in Persia. Later it came to be
applied to a number of other natural liquid substances having
similar properties. Technically, gasoline and kerosene are
considered naphthas.

Stephen.

--
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
From the Wirral Peninsula.
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce

On 7/8/2011 2:43 PM, wrote:
In
Jack wrote:

On 7/7/2011 2:21 PM, wrote:
In
Jack wrote:

By Lacquer thinners do you mean Cellulose thinner?

I don't know, by lacquer thinner I mean the stuff I used to paint cars
with when I was a kid, and now buy at Home Depot in a can that says
"lacquer thinner" on it.

You must be from the USA.

Yes.

Your lacquer thinner will be the same as what we in the UK call
Cellulose thinner which is indeed used in vehicle painting or
spraying.

The US has a bunch of names for lacquer types too, I don't understand
any of them.

The lacquer/cellulose thinner is a very powerful solvent and has
many uses, I have a five gallon tub of this in my garage.

When I was a kid painting cars and such, I always had a 5 gallon can of
the cheap stuff, for cleaning, primer coats and such. A gallon can of
the good, high gloss stuff. I don't have a clue what I get at Home
Depot, I don't paint cars any more.

Mineral spirit is the same as Turps, but in the UK we call it
Turpentine, Turps for short or turps substitute.

I think there are technical differences in the US as well, although most
people use the terms interchangeably. I threw in Terps just to be wordy:-)

The thinner acts the same way as Naphtha both being very volatile,
the mineral spirit however does not clean a paint brush on its own
by simply standing the brush in the solvent,

I spin the hell out of it with a spinner. Usually comes pretty clean
first time, nice and clean the second, and really clean the third.

only after thorough
cleaning the brush is it better served being suspended in mineral
spirit which is almost exactly the same as white spirit that I
believe you would call a Stoddard solvent in the USA.

Don't know about Stoddard solvent. After I clean a (good) brush I wrap
it in a cardboard wrapper that came with the brush, or one I made.

I don't even know what "Naphtha"
is. I've seen the word used a lot around here, and have looked
it up a few times. I still don't know what it is, and I ain't
looking it up again, cause I know I'll forget anyway. I think
Naphtha was some kind of yellow soap when I was a young?

As a reminder from the www,

The following reminder is the reason I quit looking it up. Whole lot of
words that makes it clear as mud to me. Naphtha sounds pretty much like
lacquer thinner to the untrained eye:-) I was right about the soap
however, and it was Fels Naphtha bar soap my mother used to have in the
laundry tubs. I replaced it with GoJo and Lava when I was into cars.

Naphtha is a term usually restricted to a class of colourless,
volatile, flammable liquid hydrocarbon mixtures. Obtained as one
of the more volatile fractions in the fractional distillation of
petroleum (when it is known as petroleum naphtha), in the
fractional distillation of coal tar (coal-tar naphtha), and in a
similar distillation of wood (wood naphtha), it is used widely as
a solvent for various organic substances, such as fats and rubber,
and in the making of varnish. Because of its dissolving property
it is important as a cleaning fluid; it is also incorporated in
certain laundry soaps. Coal-tar (aromatic) naphthas have greater
solvent power than petroleum (aliphatic) naphthas.
Originally the term naphtha designated a colourless flammable
liquid obtained from the ground in Persia. Later it came to be
applied to a number of other natural liquid substances having
similar properties. Technically, gasoline and kerosene are
considered naphthas.

Stephen.



--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

On Sat, 9 Jul 2011 21:31:31 +0100, "Zapp Brannigan"
wrote:

Mrcheerful wrote:
Owain wrote:
On Jul 5, 12:19 pm, "Mrcheerful" wrote:
so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin
that can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ?

Something like a wine box?

Owain

problem is that paint separates, so it needs to be something with a solid
bottom and room to get a stirrer in. What about a tough plastic bag
inside
a tin?, you could then seal the bag in close proximity to the surface of
the
paint and undo it for stirring and use.

What about paint in a bag, without a tin? Tough blood-bag style pouch
that could be kneaded to mix, and a strong plastic screw-top like a coke
bottle.

That's far, far too efficient, Z. There'll be none of that!

--
One word frees us of all the weight and pain of life: That word is love.
-- Sophocles

On Jul 9, 5:44*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Sat, 9 Jul 2011 21:31:31 +0100, "Zapp Brannigan"
wrote:





Mrcheerful wrote:
Owain wrote:
On Jul 5, 12:19 pm, "Mrcheerful" *wrote:
so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin
that can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ?

Something like a wine box?

Owain

problem is that paint separates, so it needs to be something with a solid
bottom and room to get a stirrer in. *What about a tough plastic bag
inside
a tin?, you could then seal the bag in close proximity to the surface of
the
paint and undo it for stirring and use.

What about paint in a bag, without a tin? * *Tough blood-bag style pouch
that could be kneaded to mix, and a strong plastic screw-top like a coke
bottle.

That's far, far too efficient, Z. *There'll be none of that!



Correct. One needs specialty marbles and membranes and dead-blow
hammers and inverted shelving and perimeter-verifiable-impact-lid-
adjustment tables and temperature gauges, not to mention hazmat
pants....I said NOT to mention hazmat pants!

On 09/07/2011 21:31, Zapp Brannigan wrote:

What about paint in a bag, without a tin? Tough blood-bag style pouch
that could be kneaded to mix, and a strong plastic screw-top like a coke
bottle.



Wine box anyone?

Andy