Sealing the lids on paint tins
Someone I know puts a couple of very thin plastic sheets (cut up vegetable
bags from the supermarket)under the tin lids of tins of varnishes, paints and glues that come stored in tins. It makes the lids come on and off very easily and he claims they act like a 'washer' and hence give a more *airtight* seal. But since air passes through plastic bags (why long life bread is packaged in 'silvered' plastic bags) albeit slowly, would this be worth doing? |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
In article ,
john brook wrote: Someone I know puts a couple of very thin plastic sheets (cut up vegetable bags from the supermarket)under the tin lids of tins of varnishes, paints and glues that come stored in tins. It makes the lids come on and off very easily and he claims they act like a 'washer' and hence give a more *airtight* seal. But since air passes through plastic bags (why long life bread is packaged in 'silvered' plastic bags) albeit slowly, would this be worth doing? The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large quantity of new air when you replace the lid. -- *Rehab is for quitters Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , john brook wrote: Someone I know puts a couple of very thin plastic sheets (cut up vegetable bags from the supermarket)under the tin lids of tins of varnishes, paints and glues that come stored in tins. It makes the lids come on and off very easily and he claims they act like a 'washer' and hence give a more airtight seal. But since air passes through plastic bags (why long life bread is packaged in 'silvered' plastic bags) albeit slowly, would this be worth doing? The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large quantity of new air when you replace the lid. Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
In article ,
steve robinson wrote: The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large quantity of new air when you replace the lid. Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom Or fill the space with some inert gas? -- *Strip mining prevents forest fires. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
Huge wrote:
On 2011-07-05, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In article , steve robinson wrote: The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large quantity of new air when you replace the lid. Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom Or fill the space with some inert gas? Store the tins upside down. Makes no difference once the tin is opened and new air introduced. |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
On 05/07/2011 11:36, steve robinson wrote:
Huge wrote: On 2011-07-05, Dave Plowman wrote: In , steve wrote: The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large quantity of new air when you replace the lid. Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom Or fill the space with some inert gas? Store the tins upside down. Makes no difference once the tin is opened and new air introduced. With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not on top, when you come to use it. Colin Bignell |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
On 7/5/2011 11:26 AM, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In , steve wrote: The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large quantity of new air when you replace the lid. Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom Or fill the space with some inert gas? I transfer leftover paints to nice clean glass jars. Takes up less space, and makes it easy to see the colour. |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
Nightjar wrote:
On 05/07/2011 11:36, steve robinson wrote: Huge wrote: On 2011-07-05, Dave Plowman wrote: In , steve wrote: The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large quantity of new air when you replace the lid. Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom Or fill the space with some inert gas? Store the tins upside down. Makes no difference once the tin is opened and new air introduced. With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not on top, when you come to use it. Colin Bignell The reason for rotating tins was to help keep the oils and pigments mixed, otherwise they eventually seperate |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 11:45:44 +0100, "Nightjar wrote:
With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not on top, when you come to use it. But how do you then stir the paint to get the oil back in without breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint? As for the plastic bag under lid can't see a reason for it provided the lid and rim are in good condition. I always wipe around the lid and rim to remove excess paint put the lid on firmly with a few taps from a small hammer. Don't have a problem with stuff going off and if there is a skin it is easy to remove in tact. -- Cheers Dave. |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 11:45:44 +0100, "Nightjar wrote: With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not on top, when you come to use it. But how do you then stir the paint to get the oil back in without breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint? As for the plastic bag under lid can't see a reason for it provided the lid and rim are in good condition. I always wipe around the lid and rim to remove excess paint put the lid on firmly with a few taps from a small hammer. Don't have a problem with stuff going off and if there is a skin it is easy to remove in tact. so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin that can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ? or an inner cup that could be screwed inside the can and would then effectively raise the bottom surface of the can. |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
john brook wrote:
Someone I know puts a couple of very thin plastic sheets (cut up vegetable bags from the supermarket)under the tin lids of tins of varnishes, paints and glues that come stored in tins. It makes the lids come on and off very easily and he claims they act like a 'washer' and hence give a more *airtight* seal. But since air passes through plastic bags (why long life bread is packaged in 'silvered' plastic bags) albeit slowly, would this be worth doing? Oxygen is the enemy of unused paint. Here are some tips: * Don't paint out of the can. Pour paint into another container and re-seal the can. * When finished painting, return the unused paint to the can, then - pay attention here - EXHALE three times into the can. This replaces most of the oxygen with carbon dioxide. * Use a plastic bag as your friend suggested. It acts like a gasket around the edges. * Store the can upside down. Any remaining oxygen will cause a thin film to form on what will be the bottom of the paint next time you open the can. * Make sure the lid is on tightly. Else some paint will leak out, firmly attaching the lid to the shelf such that when you grab the can, the lid stays on the shelf, the remaining paint plops to the floor, and you have an empty can in your hand. |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
Nightjar "cpb"@ insertmysurnamehere wrote:
On 05/07/2011 11:36, steve robinson wrote: Huge wrote: Store the tins upside down. Makes no difference once the tin is opened and new air introduced. With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not on top, when you come to use it. Only if there's more than 1/2 a tin left when you put it away! |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
Owain wrote:
On Jul 5, 12:19 pm, "Mrcheerful" wrote: so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin that can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ? Something like a wine box? Owain problem is that paint separates, so it needs to be something with a solid bottom and room to get a stirrer in. What about a tough plastic bag inside a tin?, you could then seal the bag in close proximity to the surface of the paint and undo it for stirring and use. |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
* When finished painting, return the unused paint to the can, then -
pay attention here - EXHALE three times into the can. This replaces most of the oxygen with carbon dioxide. Only if you are an alien? Typical human exhalations have only 4%~5% carbon dioxide in place about the same amount of oxygen leaving ~15% oxygen (plus added water vapour). -- Robin PM may be sent to rbw0{at}hotmail{dot}com |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , steve robinson wrote: The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large quantity of new air when you replace the lid. Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom Or fill the space with some inert gas? Or use an inflated plastic bag to fill the void. (I started off writing "blow up a plastic bag...", but I suspect this is one problem that wouldn't be best solved with explosives :) -- Andrew |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
Robin wrote:
* When finished painting, return the unused paint to the can, then - pay attention here - EXHALE three times into the can. This replaces most of the oxygen with carbon dioxide. Only if you are an alien? Typical human exhalations have only 4%~5% carbon dioxide in place about the same amount of oxygen leaving ~15% oxygen (plus added water vapour). OR: put a thin plastic bag into the can and tuck it in so that it contacts the paint and leaves the open end outside the can, putting the lid on inside the open end of the bag would mean that air could not get to the paint surface. A bit like the old idea of a greaseproof paper round on top of jam. |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
On 7/5/2011 4:15 AM, john brook wrote:
Someone I know puts a couple of very thin plastic sheets (cut up vegetable bags from the supermarket)under the tin lids of tins of varnishes, paints and glues that come stored in tins. It makes the lids come on and off very easily and he claims they act like a 'washer' and hence give a more *airtight* seal. But since air passes through plastic bags (why long life bread is packaged in 'silvered' plastic bags) albeit slowly, would this be worth doing? If you keep paint out of the sealing area between the lid and can you get the same effect. Store the can upside down to keep the air on bottom. |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
On 7/5/2011 5:36 AM, steve robinson wrote:
Huge wrote: On 2011-07-05, Dave Plowman wrote: In , steve wrote: The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large quantity of new air when you replace the lid. Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom Or fill the space with some inert gas? Store the tins upside down. Makes no difference once the tin is opened and new air introduced. New air or not the paint will skim over, better on bottom than on top. |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
On 7/5/2011 6:03 AM, steve robinson wrote:
Nightjar wrote: On 05/07/2011 11:36, steve robinson wrote: Huge wrote: On 2011-07-05, Dave Plowman wrote: In , steve wrote: The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large quantity of new air when you replace the lid. Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom Or fill the space with some inert gas? Store the tins upside down. Makes no difference once the tin is opened and new air introduced. With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not on top, when you come to use it. Colin Bignell The reason for rotating tins was to help keep the oils and pigments mixed, otherwise they eventually seperate Now that is a load, that will not keep the contents mixed. |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
In message o.uk
"Dave Liquorice" wrote: On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 11:45:44 +0100, "Nightjar wrote: With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not on top, when you come to use it. But how do you then stir the paint to get the oil back in without breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint? With sufficient air space in the tin the oil paint will skin over anyway, this will protect the remaining paint and depending on the type of paint you are supposed to either cut off and remove the skin then thoroughly stir or stir in the skin and then strain through a nylon stocking or purpose made paint strainer. -- http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk From the Wirral Peninsular. Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes "Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
On 7/5/2011 7:27 AM, Robin wrote:
* When finished painting, return the unused paint to the can, then - pay attention here - EXHALE three times into the can. This replaces most of the oxygen with carbon dioxide. Only if you are an alien? Typical human exhalations have only 4%~5% carbon dioxide in place about the same amount of oxygen leaving ~15% oxygen (plus added water vapour). He left out holding your breath. Have you ever heard of holding your breath before blowing out a candle? |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
In message o.uk, Dave
Liquorice writes On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 11:45:44 +0100, "Nightjar wrote: With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not on top, when you come to use it. But how do you then stir the paint to get the oil back in without breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint? Without stirring it (or maybe after first stirring very carefully, without breaking the skin), you decant most of the paint off into another container. You then scrape off the sludge from the inside of the lid, add it to the paint you have decanted, and stir it in well. After you have used the paint, if there's still some left, you can pour it back unto the original tin until the next time you need it. Once opened, I suspect that a re-sealed tin often allows small amounts of air to get in. Storing it upside down probably helps the lid to be absolutely air-tight - just make sure it doesn't leak! -- Ian |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
On 7/5/2011 6:19 AM, Mrcheerful wrote:
Dave Liquorice wrote: On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 11:45:44 +0100, "Nightjar wrote: With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not on top, when you come to use it. But how do you then stir the paint to get the oil back in without breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint? As for the plastic bag under lid can't see a reason for it provided the lid and rim are in good condition. I always wipe around the lid and rim to remove excess paint put the lid on firmly with a few taps from a small hammer. Don't have a problem with stuff going off and if there is a skin it is easy to remove in tact. so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin that can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ? or an inner cup that could be screwed inside the can and would then effectively raise the bottom surface of the can. Like these? http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...190,44133&ap=1 -- Free bad advice available here. To reply, eat the taco. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/ |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
I remember many many years ago seeing on TV a system of lids for glass
jars with a self sealing valve on top and a sort of hand operated vacuum pump. The idea being you removed any air after putting back on the lid. Rather like canning works, but without the heat. It was short term storage of edible products - and may well have been before most had 'fridges. But like many such things on TV, never saw it again. -- *Toilet stolen from police station. Cops have nothing to go on. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
I remember many many years ago seeing on TV a system of lids for glass
jars with a self sealing valve on top and a sort of hand operated vacuum pump. The idea being you removed any air after putting back on the lid. Rather like canning works, but without the heat. I still have one. Uses the same pump and same design of valve as vac-u-vin. It was short term storage of edible products - and may well have been before most had 'fridges. But like many such things on TV, never saw it again. Some still available. Just pop "vacuvin storage" into the search engine of your choice. Bit pricey for paint though and possibly not suitable for oil based paints 'cos of the effects of "the vapours". -- Robin PM may be sent to rbw0{at}hotmail{dot}com |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
Steve Turner wrote:
On 7/5/2011 6:19 AM, Mrcheerful wrote: Dave Liquorice wrote: On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 11:45:44 +0100, "Nightjar wrote: With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not on top, when you come to use it. But how do you then stir the paint to get the oil back in without breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint? As for the plastic bag under lid can't see a reason for it provided the lid and rim are in good condition. I always wipe around the lid and rim to remove excess paint put the lid on firmly with a few taps from a small hammer. Don't have a problem with stuff going off and if there is a skin it is easy to remove in tact. so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin that can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ? or an inner cup that could be screwed inside the can and would then effectively raise the bottom surface of the can. Like these? http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...190,44133&ap=1 dang, I was too late. |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
In article , lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says... On 7/5/2011 7:27 AM, Robin wrote: * When finished painting, return the unused paint to the can, then - pay attention here - EXHALE three times into the can. This replaces most of the oxygen with carbon dioxide. Only if you are an alien? Typical human exhalations have only 4%~5% carbon dioxide in place about the same amount of oxygen leaving ~15% oxygen (plus added water vapour). He left out holding your breath. Have you ever heard of holding your breath before blowing out a candle? Nope. Neither has the wind. |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
On 05/07/2011 13:35, Mrcheerful wrote:
Robin wrote: * When finished painting, return the unused paint to the can, then - pay attention here - EXHALE three times into the can. This replaces most of the oxygen with carbon dioxide. Only if you are an alien? Typical human exhalations have only 4%~5% carbon dioxide in place about the same amount of oxygen leaving ~15% oxygen (plus added water vapour). OR: put a thin plastic bag into the can and tuck it in so that it contacts the paint and leaves the open end outside the can, putting the lid on inside the open end of the bag would mean that air could not get to the paint surface. A bit like the old idea of a greaseproof paper round on top of jam. I simply pour gently, a small amount of turps on the paint, this in my experience stops it skimming and is easily stirred in before the next use. Another thing I have found useful is if I use a paint brush then need to continue the job the next day wiping any excess paint off then firmly wrapping the paint brush in cling film, keeps the brush usable until the morrow. -- Residing on low ground in North Staffordshire |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
On Jul 5, 10:15*am, "john brook" wrote:
Someone I know puts a couple of very thin plastic sheets (cut up vegetable bags from the supermarket)under the tin lids of tins of varnishes, paints and glues that come stored in tins. Surely the place to put the plastic sheet is lying on top of the paint. this separates it from the air. Robert |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
john brook laid this down on his screen :
Someone I know puts a couple of very thin plastic sheets (cut up vegetable bags from the supermarket)under the tin lids of tins of varnishes, paints and glues that come stored in tins. It makes the lids come on and off very easily and he claims they act like a 'washer' and hence give a more *airtight* seal. But since air passes through plastic bags (why long life bread is packaged in 'silvered' plastic bags) albeit slowly, would this be worth doing? Once the lid is firmly back on, just turn it upside down. The what ever it is inside will seal the gaps in the lid and prevent any more air entering. -- Regards, Harry (M1BYT) (L) http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
I use the wine box for all my finishes.
It's great. I can mix the paint by just slapping the membrane on a bench. It elongates the storage of all my finishes. The way my wife and brother in law go through these boxes I have an endless supply. I use soda bottles with the top cut off to fill them (makes a one time funnel) squeeze the air out, then store. The best method of storing I have used. No rusted lids, no stuck lids. If I can't get the stuff to remix, I pour it all out in a can and mix, then pour it back. Rarely needed, but occasionally does happen. One more advantage is the small storage size. On 7/5/2011 7:28 AM, Owain wrote: On Jul 5, 12:19 pm, "Mrcheerful" wrote: so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin that can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ? Something like a wine box? Owain |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
In message , Mrcheerful
writes so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin that can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ? I've got a few concertina bottles in my darkroom for storing film developer. http://www.silverprint.co.uk/media/stock/000009EC.JPG They will collapse from 1 litre down to about 1/2 litre. Works fine with fluid but I'm not sure about gloss paint. Can you imagine trying to whack the lid on an concertining paint container ;-) -- Paul Giverin My Photos:- www.pbase.com/vendee |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
Paul Giverin wrote:
In message , Mrcheerful writes so what is actually needed (dragon's den here I come) is a paint tin that can be made shorter, perhaps collapsible corrugations ? I've got a few concertina bottles in my darkroom for storing film developer. http://www.silverprint.co.uk/media/stock/000009EC.JPG They will collapse from 1 litre down to about 1/2 litre. Works fine with fluid but I'm not sure about gloss paint. Can you imagine trying to whack the lid on an concertining paint container ;-) That would be a job to be passed to 'the boy' |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
On 7/5/2011 9:13 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
In , lcb11211 @swbelldotnet says... On 7/5/2011 7:27 AM, Robin wrote: * When finished painting, return the unused paint to the can, then - pay attention here - EXHALE three times into the can. This replaces most of the oxygen with carbon dioxide. Only if you are an alien? Typical human exhalations have only 4%~5% carbon dioxide in place about the same amount of oxygen leaving ~15% oxygen (plus added water vapour). He left out holding your breath. Have you ever heard of holding your breath before blowing out a candle? Nope. Neither has the wind. When you hold your breath you emit less oxygen in you wind and you blow "slowly". The point of holding your breath is to smother the flame and the glowing wick so that it does not continue to smoke after the fire is out. |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
On 05/07/2011 12:11, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 11:45:44 +0100, "Nightjar wrote: With oil based paints, it ensures that the skin is under the paint, not on top, when you come to use it. But how do you then stir the paint to get the oil back in without breaking the skin and get loads of bits in the paint? Carefully. Although, if I keep a paint long enough for it to skin, the skin is usually so thick that the propblem is how to break it. Colin Bignell |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
|
Sealing the lids on paint tins
On 05/07/2011 13:31, Andrew Morton wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote: In , steve wrote: The reason paint goes off after being opened and used is the large quantity of new air when you replace the lid. Your better dropping a peace of plastic in the bottom Or fill the space with some inert gas? Or use an inflated plastic bag to fill the void. (I started off writing "blow up a plastic bag...", but I suspect this is one problem that wouldn't be best solved with explosives :) Cue the "Mr Bean does decorating" clip from Youtube... David |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
On 05/07/2011 15:30, Moonraker wrote:
Another thing I have found useful is if I use a paint brush then need to continue the job the next day wiping any excess paint off then firmly wrapping the paint brush in cling film, keeps the brush usable until the morrow. I find a couple of layers of Tesco bags does the trick equally well actually - at least it's a use for the bloody things. Embarrassing confession - I employed a pro decorator a few months ago for the first time in my life. I was very intrigued that he had a new Special Box which he stored all his used brushes in; only it wasn't one of those where the bristles sit in turps, ISTR there was some form of chemical vapour in there which prevented the brushes from drying out indefinitely. He said it was the mutt's nuts and he'd pretty well given up on turps and brush cleaner. Can't remember what the stuff was though... David |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
On 05/07/2011 11:33, Huge wrote:
Store the tins upside down. You don't need to store them upside down (which as others have pointed out means any skin is under the paint and hard to deal with) simply inverting them once so paint seals the edge of the lid seems to make a difference to me. Andy |
Sealing the lids on paint tins
Lobster wrote:
On 05/07/2011 15:30, Moonraker wrote: firmly wrapping the paint brush in cling film, keeps the brush usable until the morrow. I find a couple of layers of Tesco bags does the trick equally well actually - at least it's a use for the bloody things. Tesco bags are probably the worst choice for that, especially if they're more than a few weeks old, their bags bio/photo/oxi-degrade very quickly ... I employed a pro decorator a few months ago for the first time in my life. I was very intrigued that he had a new Special Box which he stored all his used brushes in; Been mentioned before, I think. http://www.brushmate.co.uk/ |
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