"Swingman" wrote in message
While both can have their frustrating installation issues, my experience
is there is far less mechanical frustration down the road with a
traditional tambour installation ... although tambour may be just a bit
more involved upfront, it is the kind of involvement that requires common
woodworking skills (routing, ect), not mechanical skills.

I'm conflicted here. Tambour doors can look good, but he's dealing with a
large TV. Considering the TV size, tambour slats can warp, look uneven or
just appear overwhelming in appearance. If he can buy them premade then
possibly they might work out, but that's just a maybe. Cutting your own with
a TV this big is going to be a lot of work, a lot of sawdust and I suspect,
a lot of aggravation and swearing. I think tambour doors are not as stylish
now as they used to be.

Folding and pocket doors can look good in almost any size. Yes, they can be
a bitch to adjust, but much of that is dependent on the quality of the
hardware.

I'd suggest that down the road, both of these methods would be a waste
because the tendency would be to leave tambour or bifold doors open most of
the time because of the aggravation of opening and closing them several
times a day. These doors, however they're constructed will likely look good
when company is over, but that's the only benefit to them in my opinion. I
went through a very similar phase with 46" TV and my articulating wall mount
I bought from Lee Valley Tools. Within a few months, I got tired of pulling
the TV out and angling it for my preferred sitting location. Now it sits
inserted in its slot and I watch it as it is.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...01,60167,59991

"Upscale" wrote in
:


"Swingman" wrote in message
While both can have their frustrating installation issues, my
experience is there is far less mechanical frustration down the road
with a traditional tambour installation ... although tambour may be
just a bit more involved upfront, it is the kind of involvement that
requires common woodworking skills (routing, ect), not mechanical
skills.

I'm conflicted here. Tambour doors can look good, but he's dealing
with a large TV. Considering the TV size, tambour slats can warp, look
uneven or just appear overwhelming in appearance. If he can buy them
premade then possibly they might work out, but that's just a maybe.
Cutting your own with a TV this big is going to be a lot of work, a
lot of sawdust and I suspect, a lot of aggravation and swearing. I
think tambour doors are not as stylish now as they used to be.

Folding and pocket doors can look good in almost any size. Yes, they
can be a bitch to adjust, but much of that is dependent on the quality
of the hardware.

I'd suggest that down the road, both of these methods would be a waste
because the tendency would be to leave tambour or bifold doors open
most of the time because of the aggravation of opening and closing
them several times a day. These doors, however they're constructed
will likely look good when company is over, but that's the only
benefit to them in my opinion. I went through a very similar phase
with 46" TV and my articulating wall mount I bought from Lee Valley
Tools. Within a few months, I got tired of pulling the TV out and
angling it for my preferred sitting location. Now it sits inserted in
its slot and I watch it as it is.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...x?p=59991&cat=
3,43597,43601,60167,59991

I am not really rushing to a decision, and appreciate your comments.
Right now we are indeed leaning away from both a huge tambour and from
pocket doors.

I showed Afina a picture of an entertainment center with huge sliding
doors, and she is somewhat enamored of that approach. In fact, I am too.

Now how to make sliding doors with an oak veneer that are light and
sturdy and won't warp. 2 doors each 48" high and 22-24" wide ... Seems
to me that 3/4" plywood is too heavy and thinner plywood might too easily
warp or get damaged. Or ... ??

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"Han" wrote in message
I showed Afina a picture of an entertainment center with huge sliding
doors, and she is somewhat enamored of that approach. In fact, I am too.

Put up a link to this picture so we can make comments on it, or post it to
ABPW.

Now how to make sliding doors with an oak veneer that are light and
sturdy and won't warp. 2 doors each 48" high and 22-24" wide ... Seems
to me that 3/4" plywood is too heavy and thinner plywood might too easily
warp or get damaged. Or ... ??

Need more information. Such as, how big is this cabinet that the TV is going
to sit in or on? Will there be open spaces on either sides of the TV? Just
off hand, I'm thinking about folding doors that fold right around the
exterior sides of the cabinet. Hardware exists for just this purpose. I've
seen similar cabinets that use this method and they've looked fairly decent
and operated very smoothly. The downside to such a construction is that
you'll need that mostly dead space around those exterior sides and
eventually as I've suggested previouwsly, it might become inconvenient to
open and close them on a regular basis.

And a question about these sliding doors you're thinking about. If it
incorporates tracks at the bottom then they might look a little ugly in my
opinion if they're open to view. Consider how you might hide lower tracks.
If you just go with the doors hanging down from an upper sliding track,
(which is easy to hide) then it's usually advisable to use some sort of
guides at the bottom so the doors don't sway at all.

The best advise I can offer to you is to go window shopping for the exact
type of cabinet and doors you'd like to buy if you had an unlimited
imaginary budget. If you can't then figure out the best method for you to
build it yourself, post some pictures of it to ABPW and someone will tell
you how to construct it. On the off chance that you get some sales person
objecting to you taking pictures of their furniture, just explain that
you're going to show them to the rest of your family. Essentially, that will
be true since we're all part of your extended woodworking family. g

"Han" wrote in message
I showed Afina a picture of an entertainment center with huge sliding
doors, and she is somewhat enamored of that approach. In fact, I am too.

Now how to make sliding doors with an oak veneer that are light and
sturdy and won't warp. 2 doors each 48" high and 22-24" wide ... Seems
to me that 3/4" plywood is too heavy and thinner plywood might too easily
warp or get damaged. Or ... ??

A solution to the size and weight would be rail and stile door frames with
panel inserts. If you feel that +/- 48" high inserts are still likely to
warp, then break them up with additional rails. Another thing to consider
with doors that high is where are they going to roll to so the TV is fully
viewable? It occurs to me that they might roll in front of some inset side
cabinets. Done properly, open or closed, they can look very nice and
natural.

On Feb 4, 8:19*am, "Upscale" wrote:
"Han" wrote in message
I showed Afina a picture of an entertainment center with huge sliding
doors, and she is somewhat enamored of that approach. *In fact, I am too.
Now how to make sliding doors with an oak veneer that are light and
sturdy and won't warp. *2 doors each 48" high and 22-24" wide ... *Seems
to me that 3/4" plywood is too heavy and thinner plywood might too easily
warp or get damaged. *Or ... ??

A solution to the size and weight would be rail and stile door frames with
panel inserts. If you feel that +/- 48" high inserts are still likely to
warp, then break them up with additional rails. Another thing to consider
with doors that high is where are they going to roll to so the TV is fully
viewable? It occurs to me that they might roll in front of some inset side
cabinets. Done properly, open or closed, they can look very nice and
natural.

I just finished planing a bunch of cherry to build this thing for a
client.
The corner joints will be different as will the vertical sides. (A
slight taper towards the bottom.)
The back is hollow, built like a torsion box with raceways for cabling
and the whole thing comes apart for ease of shipment.
When installed, there will be no visible wiring.
I have orders for 6 of these once the prototype (this one is for a 60"
plasma) is approved.
I am now trying to find some decent grommets.

On Feb 4, 8:40*am, Robatoy wrote:
On Feb 4, 8:19*am, "Upscale" wrote:

"Han" wrote in message
I showed Afina a picture of an entertainment center with huge sliding
doors, and she is somewhat enamored of that approach. *In fact, I am too.
Now how to make sliding doors with an oak veneer that are light and
sturdy and won't warp. *2 doors each 48" high and 22-24" wide ... *Seems
to me that 3/4" plywood is too heavy and thinner plywood might too easily
warp or get damaged. *Or ... ??

A solution to the size and weight would be rail and stile door frames with
panel inserts. If you feel that +/- 48" high inserts are still likely to
warp, then break them up with additional rails. Another thing to consider
with doors that high is where are they going to roll to so the TV is fully
viewable? It occurs to me that they might roll in front of some inset side
cabinets. Done properly, open or closed, they can look very nice and
natural.

I just finished planing a bunch of cherry to build this thing for a
client.
The corner joints will be different as will the vertical sides. (A
slight taper towards the bottom.)
The back is hollow, built like a torsion box with raceways for cabling
and the whole thing comes apart for ease of shipment.
When installed, there will be no visible wiring.
I have orders for 6 of these once the prototype (this one is for a 60"
plasma) is approved.
I am now trying to find some decent grommets.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...y/TuToneAV.jpg

"Robatoy" wrote in message
When installed, there will be no visible wiring.
I am now trying to find some decent grommets.

I use a variety of these when I'm doing my leatherwork. Not sure how well
they'd work with cabling. You might need a heavier, commercial type grommet.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/s...yword=grommets

On 2/3/2011 10:13 PM, Upscale wrote:
wrote in message
While both can have their frustrating installation issues, my experience
is there is far less mechanical frustration down the road with a
traditional tambour installation ... although tambour may be just a bit
more involved upfront, it is the kind of involvement that requires common
woodworking skills (routing, ect), not mechanical skills.

I'm conflicted here. Tambour doors can look good, but he's dealing with a
large TV.Considering the TV size, tambour slats can warp, look
uneven or just appear overwhelming in appearance.

Tell that to my old 60" wide rolltop desk. As far as warping, if pigs
had wings ... large doors will warp sooner than pigs can fly, maybe.

As far as "can look good" ... beauty, as always, is in the eye of the
beholder.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Upscale" wrote in
:


"Robatoy" wrote in message
When installed, there will be no visible wiring.
I am now trying to find some decent grommets.

I use a variety of these when I'm doing my leatherwork. Not sure how
well they'd work with cabling. You might need a heavier, commercial
type grommet.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/s...ults.aspx?sect
ionpath=3&processor=content&p_keyword=grommets


Thanks, dadiOH, Rob and Upscale. (what are your real names, btw? Never
regstereed in my addled brain, sorry).

The picture I showed Afina is this, from Rockler:
http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?o...gs_id=2280&r=3

Mine would be similar ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"Swingman" wrote in message
Tell that to my old 60" wide rolltop desk. As far as warping, if pigs had
wings ... large doors will warp sooner than pigs can fly, maybe.

Yeah, but this is a desk and an old one as it appears. Tambour door were and
alway have been a natural for desks. That's why they call them rolltop
desks. Nothing ever since has been more appropriate for a raised back desk
with curved sides than a tambour door.

On Feb 4, 8:53*am, "Upscale" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message
When installed, there will be no visible wiring.
I am now trying to find some decent grommets.

I use a variety of these when I'm doing my leatherwork. Not sure how well
they'd work with cabling. You might need a heavier, commercial type grommet.http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/s...esults.aspx?se...

I was more thinking of these types. I know Lee Valley has some, Doug
Mockett has a lot of very nice cabling solutions, all of them
expensive.
Mockett is one of the more interesting companies.
http://tinyurl.com/6prftn

"Han" wrote in message
The picture I showed Afina is this, from Rockler:
http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?o...gs_id=2280&r=3
Mine would be similar ...

That makes it easy for you. Four rails on each door so they're unlikely to
warp at all. The doors appear to be hinged and when they're open, they're
covering the bookshelves exactly. The only concern you'd have in
construction is making the backside of those doors as finished as the front
if they're hinged doors. If you went with sliding doors, then fully
finishing the back of them is not nearly as important.

"Han" wrote in message
The picture I showed Afina is this, from Rockler:
http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?o...gs_id=2280&r=3

Sorry, missed it at first. They're sliding doors. But, you *could* go with
180 degree hinges and just make them so they swing to cover the bookshelves.
Just a thought to simplify things.

"Han" wrote

The picture I showed Afina is this, from Rockler:
http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?o...gs_id=2280&r=3

Mine would be similar ...

----------
There ya go. One set of doors for two different functions/positions. You
just have to make them as pretty from the back as the front.

You do realize, of course, that this would compromise your ability to read
and watch television at the same time.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
I was more thinking of these types. I know Lee Valley has some, Doug
Mockett has a lot of very nice cabling solutions, all of them
expensive.

Yeah, for some reason, I was thinking of grommets for running wire cable,
not data cable. ~ Not at all what you were talking about. BTW, thanks for
the Mockett link. He's got some very nice stuff.

"Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote in message
There ya go. One set of doors for two different functions/positions. You
just have to make them as pretty from the back as the front.

You're making the same mistake I made. They're sliding doors, not hinged
doors.

On Feb 4, 8:42*am, Robatoy wrote:
On Feb 4, 8:40*am, Robatoy wrote:



On Feb 4, 8:19*am, "Upscale" wrote:

"Han" wrote in message
I showed Afina a picture of an entertainment center with huge sliding
doors, and she is somewhat enamored of that approach. *In fact, I am too.
Now how to make sliding doors with an oak veneer that are light and
sturdy and won't warp. *2 doors each 48" high and 22-24" wide ... *Seems
to me that 3/4" plywood is too heavy and thinner plywood might too easily
warp or get damaged. *Or ... ??

A solution to the size and weight would be rail and stile door frames with
panel inserts. If you feel that +/- 48" high inserts are still likely to
warp, then break them up with additional rails. Another thing to consider
with doors that high is where are they going to roll to so the TV is fully
viewable? It occurs to me that they might roll in front of some inset side
cabinets. Done properly, open or closed, they can look very nice and
natural.

I just finished planing a bunch of cherry to build this thing for a
client.
The corner joints will be different as will the vertical sides. (A
slight taper towards the bottom.)
The back is hollow, built like a torsion box with raceways for cabling
and the whole thing comes apart for ease of shipment.
When installed, there will be no visible wiring.
I have orders for 6 of these once the prototype (this one is for a 60"
plasma) is approved.
I am now trying to find some decent grommets.

http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...y/TuToneAV.jpg

Nice. I like it. It's a nice backdrop, almost like a stage curtain.
I could see it in some QS and highly figured anigre, with an dark
amber honey stain. Or in your case, Sarnian Dark Amber 100% Maple
Syrup stain. Tasty, no?

R

On Feb 4, 8:53*am, "Upscale" wrote:


I use a variety of these when I'm doing my leatherwork. Not sure how well
they'd work with cabling. You might need a heavier, commercial type grommet. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/s...esults.aspx?se....

What sort of leatherwork do you do?

R

On Feb 4, 9:12*am, Han wrote:

The picture I showed Afina is this, from Rockler:http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?o...gs_id=2280&r=3

Mine would be similar ...

Check out some of the built-ins made for Murphy beds. They have some
similar sliding doors that have to have a similarly wide opening.
Maybe give you some more ideas.

R

"Upscale" wrote in
:


"Han" wrote in message
The picture I showed Afina is this, from Rockler:
http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?o...gs_id=2280&r=3

Sorry, missed it at first. They're sliding doors. But, you *could* go
with 180 degree hinges and just make them so they swing to cover the
bookshelves. Just a thought to simplify things.

Good thought, and ~22" of swing isn't too much into the room.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"RicodJour" wrote in message
I use a variety of these when I'm doing my leatherwork. Not sure how well
they'd work with cabling. You might need a heavier, commercial type
grommet.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/s...esults.aspx?se...

Mostly just personal stuff for friends and myself. I've got a few pictures
on a hard drive in another computer with a dead motherboard. When I
ressurrect them, I'll post them for you to see.

"dadiOH" wrote in message
Thanks, dadiOH, Rob and Upscale. (what are your real names, btw?

Richard

Dave

"Upscale" wrote in news:j213p.355920$ZM.189716@en-
nntp-02.dc1.easynews.com:


"dadiOH" wrote in message
Thanks, dadiOH, Rob and Upscale. (what are your real names, btw?

Richard

Dave

Thanks, Dave & Richard!!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid