I strongly prefer a left tilt table saw as most do (except lefties I
suppose).I sometimes see right tilt saw for sale pretty cheap, like an
old unisaw for a few hun. What if you swaped the wires on the motor,
swaped the fence and ran the bitch from the other side? Could that be
done?

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
I strongly prefer a left tilt table saw as most do (except lefties I
suppose).I sometimes see right tilt saw for sale pretty cheap, like an
old unisaw for a few hun. What if you swaped the wires on the motor,
swaped the fence and ran the bitch from the other side? Could that be
done?

The main trouble is that almost every tool power or hand tool, is made for a
right handed user.
The "hold-on" button is always on the left hand side of the handle
Power saws have the motor on the left hand side
most axes are right handed, as are hammers, or is it only the handles which
are right handed?
You can buy a left handed shifting spanner, but you have to look hard to get
one and try them out before buying
It might be an English thing, their car steering wheel is on the right hand
side.
Or, it may be a religious thing,
when I went to a religious school,
the teachers used to crack kids on the knuckles with the edge of a 15" ruler
if they tried writing with their left hand.

In article , "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
I strongly prefer a left tilt table saw as most do (except lefties I
suppose).I sometimes see right tilt saw for sale pretty cheap, like an
old unisaw for a few hun. What if you swaped the wires on the motor,
swaped the fence and ran the bitch from the other side? Could that be
done?

Five problems, two easy, two not, one in between..

Easy, part 1: the extension table's on the wrong side. You'll want to move it.

Easy, part 2: simply swapping the wires leading to an AC induction motor won't
make it run backward, since that reverses the polarity of both the rotor *and*
the stator. You'll need to open it up and swap the *internal* wiring. Not a
big deal, just be aware that you need to do that.

In between: where will you mount a splitter and guard?

Not easy, part 1: the elevation crank will be on the opposite side of the saw
from where you're standing.

Not easy, part 2: you won't have very much room for infeed, working from the
wrong side of the table, only a few inches. And I think that's enough to rule
the idea out.

In article ,
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I strongly prefer a left tilt table saw as most do (except lefties I
suppose).I sometimes see right tilt saw for sale pretty cheap, like an
old unisaw for a few hun. What if you swaped the wires on the motor,
swaped the fence and ran the bitch from the other side? Could that be
done?

The saw blade would be right near the front of the table instead of at the
back. There would be very little support for the workpiece before it
reached the blade.


--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

All those problems and parts are too much trouble. Turn your back to
the saw and cut using a mirror.

Sonny

On Wed, 22 Sep 2010 15:40:42 -0700, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

I strongly prefer a left tilt table saw as most do (except lefties I
suppose).I sometimes see right tilt saw for sale pretty cheap, like an
old unisaw for a few hun. What if you swaped the wires on the motor,
swaped the fence and ran the bitch from the other side? Could that be
done?

I'm a lefty. I've used both. Just a matter of getting used to it. I
have been known to move the rip fence to the left side on a right tilt so
the blade tilts away from the fence.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Easy, part 2: simply swapping the wires leading to an AC induction motor won't
make it run backward, In between: where will you mount a splitter and guard?

I am most familiar with 3 phase which is easy to reverse.

In between: where will you mount a splitter and guard?
What are those? ;^)

Not easy, part 1: the elevation crank will be on the opposite side of the saw
from where you're standing.

****! I guess it's time to get tht trained monkey I've always wanted.
"Crank it up chippy and a 15 degree bevel"

Not easy, part 2: you won't have very much room for infeed,

Ehh could make a small infeed table

In article , "George W Frost" wrote:
most axes are right handed, as are hammers, or is it only the handles which
are right handed?

Axes and hammers??? Pray tell, how is either the head *or* the handle of an
axe or a hammer right-handed?

You can buy a left handed shifting spanner, but you have to look hard to get
one and try them out before buying

A what? I know that British "spanner" = American "wrench", but what is a
shifting spanner?

In article , "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
Easy, part 2: simply swapping the wires leading to an AC induction motor
won't
make it run backward, In between: where will you mount a splitter and
guard?

I am most familiar with 3 phase which is easy to reverse.

In between: where will you mount a splitter and guard?
What are those? ;^)

Not easy, part 1: the elevation crank will be on the opposite side of the saw
from where you're standing.

****! I guess it's time to get tht trained monkey I've always wanted.
"Crank it up chippy and a 15 degree bevel"

Not easy, part 2: you won't have very much room for infeed,

Ehh could make a small infeed table

More trouble than it's worth.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article , "George
W Frost" wrote:
most axes are right handed, as are hammers, or is it only the
handles which are right handed?

Axes and hammers??? Pray tell, how is either the head *or* the handle
of an
axe or a hammer right-handed?

You can buy a left handed shifting spanner, but you have to look
hard to get one and try them out before buying

A what? I know that British "spanner" = American "wrench", but what
is a
shifting spanner?

An adjustable wrench?

On Sep 22, 7:27*pm, Sonny wrote:
All those problems and parts are too much trouble. *Turn your back to
the saw and cut using a mirror.

Sonny

I like the cut of your jib, sir.

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
I strongly prefer a left tilt table saw as most do (except lefties I
suppose).I sometimes see right tilt saw for sale pretty cheap, like an
old unisaw for a few hun. What if you swaped the wires on the motor,
swaped the fence and ran the bitch from the other side? Could that be
done?

It would not be so bad with a cabinet saw, but a contractor saw has the
motor and belt hanging off the back. I can just imagine pushing the last
bit of the board and getting "things" caught in the pulley. Damn, that
would hurt.

On Wed, 22 Sep 2010 15:40:42 -0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote:

I strongly prefer a left tilt table saw as most do (except lefties I
suppose).I sometimes see right tilt saw for sale pretty cheap, like an
old unisaw for a few hun. What if you swaped the wires on the motor,
swaped the fence and ran the bitch from the other side? Could that be
done?

If the problem is ripping with the blade tilted, you could always get
long tubes for your fence and shift the tubes so you have much more
ripping width to the left of the blade. That's a pretty easy mod with
a Bies or similar fence system.

Mike O.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "George W
Frost" wrote:
most axes are right handed, as are hammers, or is it only the handles
which
are right handed?

Axes and hammers??? Pray tell, how is either the head *or* the handle of
an
axe or a hammer right-handed?

You can buy a left handed shifting spanner, but you have to look hard to
get
one and try them out before buying

A what? I know that British "spanner" = American "wrench", but what is a
shifting spanner?


You would have to be a self opiniated yank, who think the sun shines out of
your own ****-hole and everything that you say or pronounce, is right with
no exceptions
Firstly, if you have the brains to see, an axe or hammer handle, when you
look at the cut of the piece which slips into the hammer or axe head, you
will see that the cut is slightly off centre, thus favouring a right handed
person
I have worked with hammers, axes, and picks and have replaced many and
enough handles to know
But, I guess that you are too dumb to realise this, if you need a new
handle, you just go to Walmart and buy a new complete whatever..
Next, a shifting spanner is what it says it is,
it is a spanner whch you are able to shift the opening of the jaws, allowing
you to use the same spanner, shifting spanner, or differing sized bolts and
nuts.
Then again, for your inept and sasrcastic intelligence....intelligence?, now
that is a misnomer, you may call it an adjustable wrench

Thanx for the info. You got the personality right. Most just killfilter his
arogance.


"George W Frost" wrote in message
.com...

You would have to be a self opiniated yank, who think the sun shines out of
your own ****-hole and everything that you say or pronounce, is right with
no exceptions
Firstly, if you have the brains to see, an axe or hammer handle, when you
look at the cut of the piece which slips into the hammer or axe head, you
will see that the cut is slightly off centre, thus favouring a right handed
person
I have worked with hammers, axes, and picks and have replaced many and
enough handles to know
But, I guess that you are too dumb to realise this, if you need a new
handle, you just go to Walmart and buy a new complete whatever..
Next, a shifting spanner is what it says it is,
it is a spanner whch you are able to shift the opening of the jaws, allowing
you to use the same spanner, shifting spanner, or differing sized bolts and
nuts.
Then again, for your inept and sasrcastic intelligence....intelligence?, now
that is a misnomer, you may call it an adjustable wrench


"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "George W
Frost" wrote:
most axes are right handed, as are hammers, or is it only the handles
which
are right handed?

Axes and hammers??? Pray tell, how is either the head *or* the handle of
an
axe or a hammer right-handed?

You can buy a left handed shifting spanner, but you have to look hard to
get
one and try them out before buying

A what? I know that British "spanner" = American "wrench", but what is a
shifting spanner?

On 9/23/2010 12:14 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
HOWEVER. lack of a Unifence would be cause for a deep discount
in any offer I would make for a T/S.

If the saw is for somebodies production unit, then a Bies is
acceptable, otherwise it's gotta have a Unifence.

Just my $0.02.

Lew


Interesting, especially to someone in the T/S market. Could you explain
what you regard as the important difference (s)?

Bill

On 9/23/2010 9:41 AM, Bill wrote:
On 9/23/2010 12:14 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
HOWEVER. lack of a Unifence would be cause for a deep discount
in any offer I would make for a T/S.

If the saw is for somebodies production unit, then a Bies is
acceptable, otherwise it's gotta have a Unifence.

Just my $0.02.

Lew


Interesting, especially to someone in the T/S market. Could you explain what
you regard as the important difference (s)?

Bill

From what I've seen, Delta is no longer offering the Unifence as an option on
the new Unisaws. Kinda tells me they've decided to phase it out, which I think
is unfortunate because like Lew I prefer it to the Biesemeyer.

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Sep 23, 1:31*pm, Steve Turner

*From what I've seen, Delta is no longer offering the Unifence as an option on
the new Unisaws. *Kinda tells me they've decided to phase it out, which I think
is unfortunate because like Lew I prefer it to the Biesemeyer.

Instead of phasing it out, maybe they need to redesign the handle/
alignment/locking mechanism, on the latest model(s), better. I have 2
Unisaws, one with the old Unifence and one with the newest model
Unifence. The old model is much more convenient, slips on the rail
easy, and the handle locks in place easy.... all one motion. With the
newer one, you have to mess with the handle to get it to slide onto
the rail, mess with the handle for it to be positioned right to align
the locking mechanism inside the rail, before it will lock into place
properly. I haven't looked at the insides to see what differences are
there, but I've had the newer fence for over a year and it's still
aggrevating to align and lock the thing, all in one motion, as with
the old fence. Additionally, if you need to move the newer fence,
some tinkering with the handle is needed before everything is in place/
aligned, again, for locking it, again.

Possibly, my discomfort with it, is that, the handle part feels limp,
as if unattached (? you have to feel it to know). Once everything is
in place for locking, then it feels properly attached to its
framing.... and the handle doesn't engage (lock securely) until the
handle lever is pressed all the way down (90° to the table
surface).... this is an awkward position to have to push the handle
to. The older unit's handle angle, when locked, is 45° down from the
table surface.... that "feel" is much better.

When I'm working, I want to set the measure, lock and cut.... It's/
I'm that fast with the older unifence. With the newer fence, I'm
having to fondle it, before locking and cutting... by then, I find my
train of thought, for running the cut, interrupted a bit. That slight
hesitation is aggrevating, sometimes.

Newer is not always better.

I've never used a Biesemeyer. Not that I prefer a Unifence. I
started with a Unifence and just stayed with it. From what I have
read, seen... all but experience, I'm sure the Biesemeyer is just as
good.

I've gotten off the original topic. However, my new Unifence is set
for left of the blade and the old fence is set for right of the blade,
i.e., either one for using on each side of the blade on both my left
tilt or right tilt saws.

Sonny

On Wed, 22 Sep 2010 21:14:22 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

Personally whether the saw was a left or a right tilt doesn't mean
much; HOWEVER. lack of a Unifence would be cause for a deep discount
in any offer I would make for a T/S.

If the saw is for somebodies production unit, then a Bies is
acceptable, otherwise it's gotta have a Unifence.

I feel just the opposite.
I've used a Bies on the job for years and had a Uni at home. I always
found it a PITA to remove the fence from the arm and re-attach it to
the other side to cut left of the blade. I would find myself doing
anything to keep from cutting left of the blade. I finally sold it
and bought another Bies for home.
I do think they are both good fences though.

Mike O.

On Thu, 23 Sep 2010 13:31:26 -0500, Steve Turner
wrote:

On 9/23/2010 9:41 AM, Bill wrote:
On 9/23/2010 12:14 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
HOWEVER. lack of a Unifence would be cause for a deep discount
in any offer I would make for a T/S.

If the saw is for somebodies production unit, then a Bies is
acceptable, otherwise it's gotta have a Unifence.

Just my $0.02.

Lew


Interesting, especially to someone in the T/S market. Could you explain what
you regard as the important difference (s)?

Bill

From what I've seen, Delta is no longer offering the Unifence as an option on
the new Unisaws. Kinda tells me they've decided to phase it out, which I think
is unfortunate because like Lew I prefer it to the Biesemeyer.


Probably another cost cutting measure. My guess would be that the
design of Uni-fence makes it more expensive to manufacture than the
Bies.

Mike O.

Steve Turner wrote:

Interesting, especially to someone in the T/S market. Could you
explain what
you regard as the important difference (s)?

Bill

From what I've seen, Delta is no longer offering the Unifence as an
option on the new Unisaws. Kinda tells me they've decided to phase it
out, which I think is unfortunate because like Lew I prefer it to the
Biesemeyer.


I noticed Grizzly's G-690 T/S comes with their "Camlock T-fence"--which,
by its looks, doesn't make as good of an impression on me as either of
the above.

Bill

Mike O. wrote:
On Thu, 23 Sep 2010 13:31:26 -0500, Steve Turner
snip
Probably another cost cutting measure. My guess would be that the
design of Uni-fence makes it more expensive to manufacture than the
Bies.

Mike O.

From Delta's web site (note the post date):

"Fence systems

1/24/2003

Question:
Older episodes show norm using a biesmeyer fence while more current ones
show a unifence..i have used both it seems the biesmeyer holds a slight
advantage only because shop-built jigs are much easier to make....why
norm's change to the unifence?????

Answer:
Well, we've changed fences again... We now have gone back to the
Biesemeyer. It is easier to fit most appliances to although we will miss
the Unifence system in certain operations."

http://www.deltaportercable.com/Libr...0-ca48ec0faf82

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

"Mike O." wrote in message
...
On Wed, 22 Sep 2010 21:14:22 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

Personally whether the saw was a left or a right tilt doesn't mean
much; HOWEVER. lack of a Unifence would be cause for a deep discount
in any offer I would make for a T/S.

If the saw is for somebodies production unit, then a Bies is
acceptable, otherwise it's gotta have a Unifence.

I feel just the opposite.
I've used a Bies on the job for years and had a Uni at home. I always
found it a PITA to remove the fence from the arm and re-attach it to
the other side to cut left of the blade. I would find myself doing
anything to keep from cutting left of the blade. I finally sold it
and bought another Bies for home.
I do think they are both good fences though.

Mike O.

I worked in a shop in the late 80's that had a Beismeyer and I really wanted
one. At the time, $300 looked like a mountain, so I bought some rectangular
tube (2 x 4-1/4 wall) and did my own. I made the rail 10 ft. long. I was
blessed to have a welder and a friend in the same industrial complex who was
a machinist. It was a fairly simple thing to make the fence, though it took
some refinement to get it to work well.

I still use this same fence and haven't replaced it 'cuz it still works
well. I can cut on either side or slide it over to my makeshift "router
table" and use it to help cut grooves and stuff. I will have to say that I
don't really need this wide of a rail or table, but it does help alot of
time to have a place to stack stuff.

I cut on the right of the fence sometimes and the transition is easy. For
the most part, however, most of my cuts are just 90 degrees. My saw is a
right-tilt and I got used to it long ago; I have to agree that for angle
cuts, are better made with a left tilt saw.

An old pic of the saw: http://www.flickr.com/photos/53458712@N06/