Hello,
I want to adhere, face to face, two pieces of mdf. Both have been
primed with Zinsser shellac based, white pigmented primer. Which
adhesive would be appropriate for this job? Thanks.
TB

On Aug 2, 5:58*pm, wrote:
Hello,
I want to adhere, face to face, two pieces of mdf. Both have been
primed with Zinsser shellac based, white pigmented primer. Which
adhesive would be appropriate for this job? Thanks.
TB

The shellac has pretty much ruled out any adhesive which needs an
absorptive surface, I'd suggest either epoxy, or if strength isn't
crucial, silicone.

wrote in message
...
Hello,
I want to adhere, face to face, two pieces of mdf. Both have been
primed with Zinsser shellac based, white pigmented primer. Which
adhesive would be appropriate for this job? Thanks.
TB

Screws.

Elmer's white glue is as good as any for what you are doing. In reality,
you are adhering primer to primer.

On Aug 2, 5:58*pm, wrote:
Hello,
I want to adhere, face to face, two pieces of mdf. Both have been
primed with Zinsser shellac based, white pigmented primer. Which
adhesive would be appropriate for this job? Thanks.

What's the application, what sort of environment will it be in, and
what sort of loading will the bond experience?

R

Polyurethane glues such as PL400 that come in tubes (NOT Gorilla glue)
and are solvent based will penetrate the shellac if properly applied.

Robert

On Aug 3, 12:14*am, "
wrote:
Polyurethane glues such as PL400 that come in tubes (NOT Gorilla glue)
and are solvent based will penetrate the shellac if properly applied.

Robert

Yup. Although pretty drastic, that will work. PL 600 is a candidate
too. I was trying to be gentle, not knowing what was going on here.

On Aug 3, 12:14*am, "
wrote:
Polyurethane glues such as PL400 that come in tubes (NOT Gorilla glue)
and are solvent based will penetrate the shellac if properly applied.

Robert

Wait..... don't Polyurethane glues need moisture?

On Aug 2, 5:58*pm, wrote:
Hello,
I want to adhere, face to face, two pieces of mdf. Both have been
primed with Zinsser shellac based, white pigmented primer. Which
adhesive would be appropriate for this job? Thanks.

What's the application, what sort of environment will it be in, and
what sort of loading will the bond experience?

R

On Aug 2, 10:35*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:

Elmer's white glue is as good as any for what you are doing. *In reality,
you are adhering primer to primer.

Right. The primer could always be sanded off at the contact area.
Then any glue would do.

R

On Aug 2, 11:31*pm, Robatoy wrote:

Wait..... don't Polyurethane glues need moisture?

Not for the _tube_ stuff. While it has polyurethane resins in it, it
isn't using the same carriers or solvents as the Gorilla stuff.

The poly will dry (as you know) to a super hard, dense plastic with no
air or water. It kicks off when it leaves the tube due to its
exposure to air.

Woe be to the one that follows me to remove the tempered white
finished masonite beadboard wainscot that is popular now. I glue it
with tube poly and hide the brads in the bead grooves. It penetrates
the hard masonite easily, and goes right through many coats of paint
to adhere.

Several years after completing a kitchen remodel, I was called for
cabinet repairs due to water leaks. I had to cut out the pieces I
glued with that stuff as it destroyed everything that I glued with
it. (Excellent!)

I like the stuff as it is impervious to just about everything that
affects other glues.

Robert

On 8/3/10 9:09 AM, RicodJour wrote:
On Aug 2, 10:35 pm, "Ed wrote:

Elmer's white glue is as good as any for what you are doing. In reality,
you are adhering primer to primer.

Right. The primer could always be sanded off at the contact area.
Then any glue would do.

R

My thoughts.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Mon, 2 Aug 2010 21:40:01 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
wrote:

What's the application, what sort of environment will it be in, and
what sort of loading will the bond experience?
R

It's a kids dollhouse. I need to glue milled clapboard pieces made of
mdf to the sides of the house, also made of mdf.

On Aug 3, 1:13*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 2 Aug 2010 21:40:01 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour

wrote:
What's the application, what sort of environment will it be in, and
what sort of loading will the bond experience?
R

It's a kids dollhouse. I need to glue milled clapboard pieces made of
mdf to the sides of the house, also made of mdf.

sillicon

Robatoy wrote:
On Aug 3, 1:13 pm, wrote:
On Mon, 2 Aug 2010 21:40:01 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour

wrote:
What's the application, what sort of environment will it be in, and
what sort of loading will the bond experience?
R

It's a kids dollhouse. I need to glue milled clapboard pieces made of
mdf to the sides of the house, also made of mdf.

sillicon

silicone might be easier.

On Aug 3, 1:13*pm, wrote:
RicodJour wrote:

What's the application, what sort of environment will it be in, and
what sort of loading will the bond experience?

It's a kids dollhouse. I need to glue milled clapboard pieces made of
mdf to the sides of the house, also made of mdf.

Sigh. In future, please give complete information so we're not
wasting people's time guessing what you're trying to do, okay?

You can use anything for that application. Literally - any adhesive
would work.

Latex caulk is probably the easiest all the way around.
Silicone caulk is more expensive and presents problems if you're
trying to paint over it.

R

On 8/3/2010 10:41 AM, wrote:
On Aug 2, 11:31 pm, wrote:

Wait..... don't Polyurethane glues need moisture?

Not for the _tube_ stuff. While it has polyurethane resins in it, it
isn't using the same carriers or solvents as the Gorilla stuff.

The poly will dry (as you know) to a super hard, dense plastic with no
air or water. It kicks off when it leaves the tube due to its
exposure to air.

Woe be to the one that follows me to remove the tempered white
finished masonite beadboard wainscot that is popular now. I glue it
with tube poly and hide the brads in the bead grooves. It penetrates
the hard masonite easily, and goes right through many coats of paint
to adhere.

Several years after completing a kitchen remodel, I was called for
cabinet repairs due to water leaks. I had to cut out the pieces I
glued with that stuff as it destroyed everything that I glued with
it. (Excellent!)

I like the stuff as it is impervious to just about everything that
affects other glues.

Almost every PE I know begins onsite conversations with "PL..."

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Aug 3, 1:52*pm, "chaniarts" wrote:
Robatoy wrote:
On Aug 3, 1:13 pm, wrote:
On Mon, 2 Aug 2010 21:40:01 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour

wrote:
What's the application, what sort of environment will it be in, and
what sort of loading will the bond experience?
R

It's a kids dollhouse. I need to glue milled clapboard pieces made of
mdf to the sides of the house, also made of mdf.

sillicon

silicone might be easier.

Silicone is for those who don't dare to venture into the realms of
sillicon, silliputty or sillisybin.

On Aug 3, 4:18*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Aug 3, 1:52*pm, "chaniarts" wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

sillicon

silicone might be easier.

Silicone is for those who don't dare to venture into the realms of
sillicon, silliputty or sillisybin.

Or those physicists with their Silly String Theory.

R

On Aug 3, 4:21*pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Aug 3, 4:18*pm, Robatoy wrote:

On Aug 3, 1:52*pm, "chaniarts" wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

sillicon

silicone might be easier.

Silicone is for those who don't dare to venture into the realms of
sillicon, silliputty or sillisybin.

Or those physicists with their Silly String Theory.

R

That resonates enough with me to give me a hadron.

On Aug 3, 5:42*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Aug 3, 4:21*pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Aug 3, 4:18*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Aug 3, 1:52*pm, "chaniarts" wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

sillicon

silicone might be easier.

Silicone is for those who don't dare to venture into the realms of
sillicon, silliputty or sillisybin.

Or those physicists with their Silly String Theory.


That resonates enough with me to give me a hadron.

Well, then, you might be interested to know that Cuba lead the way in
investigating sub-atomic particles. They were so far ahead of
everyone else that it became trivial to them, and they wrote popular
songs about the physics involved. Here's proof - a Russian study
group trying to glean some of the Cuban's knowledge by emulating them:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFGs-f5iwRs
Russian studies are very informal.

R

wrote in :

Hello,
I want to adhere, face to face, two pieces of mdf. Both have been
primed with Zinsser shellac based, white pigmented primer. Which
adhesive would be appropriate for this job? Thanks.
TB

How about applying an additional top coat on each surface and sticking them
together wet? I'm not sure it would work, but it seems sometimes the
finish-to-finish joints are some of the toughest to get apart.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

On Aug 3, 9:39*pm, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

How about applying an additional top coat on each surface and sticking them
together wet? *I'm not sure it would work, but it seems sometimes the
finish-to-finish joints are some of the toughest to get apart.

Interesting idea. I think that there'd be a problem with working
time, but the shellac primer would certainly act as an adhesive. If
the clapboard pieces lay flat on the sheathing of the house, it'd
work, but if they're like regular clapboard, with only a little bit
overlapping the course below, and a little bit touching the sheathing,
I don't think there'd be much surface area and the bond would be
pretty weak. That's why I suggested latex caulk - it'd fill gaps.

R

On Aug 3, 3:13*pm, Swingman wrote:

Almost every PE I know begins onsite conversations with "PL..."

Heh heh.... you betcha!

Robert

In article ,
Robatoy wrote:
On Aug 3, 4:21*pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Aug 3, 4:18*pm, Robatoy wrote:

On Aug 3, 1:52*pm, "chaniarts" wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

sillicon

silicone might be easier.

Silicone is for those who don't dare to venture into the realms of
sillicon, silliputty or sillisybin.

Or those physicists with their Silly String Theory.

R

That resonates enough with me to give me a hadron.

Ah so, it was *you* that led the research team that was endeavoring to
isolate, in =un-bound= form, the 4h quark[1].

I should have known, when, despite the fact that the project had a fancy
academic name, it was almost always referred to as "the search for the
naked 'bottom'".


--
[1] for those who's particle physics knowledge is deficient, there are
6 'flavor's of quarks "up','down","top", "bottom", "strange", and
"charmed". I'm _not_ going going to get into how they come in assorted
'colors', or how a thing _far_ smaller than the wavelength of visible light
can have color at all.

On Wed, 04 Aug 2010 06:23:16 -0400, salty wrote:

It's siding on a doll house for cry-eye. He could use a hot glue gun or
even library paste. Elmers Glue-all or Titebond would be fine. Ther is
no need to make this complicated.

One of the glues I've found handy for modeling is Alenes Extra Tacky.
That should work great for a dollhouse, especially the smaller pieces.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Liquid nails ?

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Originator & Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/

On 8/3/2010 12:13 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 2 Aug 2010 21:40:01 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
wrote:

What's the application, what sort of environment will it be in, and
what sort of loading will the bond experience?
R

It's a kids dollhouse. I need to glue milled clapboard pieces made of
mdf to the sides of the house, also made of mdf.