I have been using Elmers Ultimate glue on a project and I have found it expands and
leaves nasty glue marks on the outside of the finish project that I have been sanding off.

In very tight corners it is most nearly impossible to sand, especially across the grain.

With the old Elmers wood glue or white glue. I used to wipe it down with water and that would
remove most, if not all of the glue so sanding would not be a problem and the wood would take
a nice stain.

Is there a way one can prevent or easily remove the extra residue of Ultimate glue or gorilla glue
before it dries so I don't have the problems of sanding in tight corners?

Does anyone have any special tricks up their proverbial sleeves?

Thanks,

Larry

Happiness is wrote:

Is there a way one can prevent or easily remove the extra residue of
Ultimate glue or gorilla glue before it dries so I don't have the
problems of sanding in tight corners?

Masking tape?

Waxilit?

Chris

blue tape. saves a ton of time and better yet, saves you from some
nearly impossible-to-remove glue squeeze out mess.

Dave

Happiness is wrote:
I have been using Elmers Ultimate glue on a project and I have found it expands and
leaves nasty glue marks on the outside of the finish project that I have been sanding off.

In very tight corners it is most nearly impossible to sand, especially across the grain.

With the old Elmers wood glue or white glue. I used to wipe it down with water and that would
remove most, if not all of the glue so sanding would not be a problem and the wood would take
a nice stain.

Is there a way one can prevent or easily remove the extra residue of Ultimate glue or gorilla glue
before it dries so I don't have the problems of sanding in tight corners?

Does anyone have any special tricks up their proverbial sleeves?

Throw the cr^h^h stuff out.

For what specific purpose/need are you using a urethane glue, anyway?
It's only real advantage is if you _must_ have a fully waterproof (not
water-resistant) glue, otherwise yellow glues are as strong as or
stronger than the wood itself (as is demonstrated that edge joints will
hold and the material break rather than the joint itself). Besides the
foaming and difficult cleanup, the open and clamping time for these is
much longer than for yellow glues which slows down progress. So,
unless there's a real purpose not otherwise served, I recomend going
back to a regular wood glue. If you need the water resistance, look
into Type II or Type III water solubles.

"Happiness is" Happiness wrote in message
...
I have been using Elmers Ultimate glue on a project and I have found it
expands and
leaves nasty glue marks on the outside of the finish project that I have
been sanding off.

In very tight corners it is most nearly impossible to sand, especially
across the grain.

With the old Elmers wood glue or white glue. I used to wipe it down with
water and that would
remove most, if not all of the glue so sanding would not be a problem and
the wood would take
a nice stain.

Is there a way one can prevent or easily remove the extra residue of
Ultimate glue or gorilla glue
before it dries so I don't have the problems of sanding in tight corners?

Does anyone have any special tricks up their proverbial sleeves?

Thanks,

Larry


Acetone cuts through Gorilla glue when it is still sticky.

"Happiness is" Happiness wrote in message
...
I have been using Elmers Ultimate glue on a project and I have found it
expands and
leaves nasty glue marks on the outside of the finish project that I have
been sanding off.

In very tight corners it is most nearly impossible to sand, especially
across the grain.

With the old Elmers wood glue or white glue. I used to wipe it down with
water and that would
remove most, if not all of the glue so sanding would not be a problem and
the wood would take
a nice stain.

Is there a way one can prevent or easily remove the extra residue of
Ultimate glue or gorilla glue
before it dries so I don't have the problems of sanding in tight corners?

Does anyone have any special tricks up their proverbial sleeves?

Expansion and foaming are characteristics of polyurethane adhesives. If you
don't specifically need their properties then stay with one of the PVA
glues.

Best bet, as others have suggested, is to mask.

"Happiness is" Happiness wrote in message
...
I have been using Elmers Ultimate glue on a project and I have found it
expands and
leaves nasty glue marks on the outside of the finish project that I have
been sanding off.

In very tight corners it is most nearly impossible to sand, especially
across the grain.

With the old Elmers wood glue or white glue. I used to wipe it down with
water and that would
remove most, if not all of the glue so sanding would not be a problem and
the wood would take
a nice stain.

Is there a way one can prevent or easily remove the extra residue of
Ultimate glue or gorilla glue
before it dries so I don't have the problems of sanding in tight corners?

Does anyone have any special tricks up their proverbial sleeves?

Thanks,

Larry

Don't use too much, use blue tape to collect the squeeze out. Polyurethane
is a very good glue and has its uses. Do not assume it's expansion
characteristics will fill a poorly made joint, it will fill it, but it has
virtually no strength when used this way. I use it on projects that will be
exposed to weather or dampness and if I need the added open/working time
polyurethane glue provides.

Dave



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Happiness is wrote:

I have been using Elmers Ultimate glue on a project and I have found it
expands and leaves nasty glue marks on the outside of the finish project
that I have been sanding off.

In very tight corners it is most nearly impossible to sand, especially
across the grain.

With the old Elmers wood glue or white glue. I used to wipe it down with
water and that would remove most, if not all of the glue so sanding would
not be a problem and the wood would take a nice stain.

Is there a way one can prevent or easily remove the extra residue of
Ultimate glue or gorilla glue before it dries so I don't have the problems
of sanding in tight corners?

Does anyone have any special tricks up their proverbial sleeves?

Thanks,

Larry


As for polyurethane glue - tried it (naive enough to believe the ads).
Found it seriously wanting, especially in outdoor usages. For

For my money, its TiteBond III for external usages and plastic resin glue
for things that need a long open time. (Saw David Marks use a lot of
plastic resin glue, now I know why)

To date, I have not been disappointed in either. Also, both are much easier
to clean up.

What I use to remove excess glue from corners is just a scraper
designed to get into corners (They are usually are available in sets
at most hardware and paint stores) being metal they are easy to clean
off. If you have any excess that squeezed between the scraper and
wood, try wrapping a solvent dampened rag around the scrapper and
scrub a little.

Hope this helps




On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 09:21:30 -0500, "Dr. Deb"
wrote:

Happiness is wrote:

I have been using Elmers Ultimate glue on a project and I have found it
expands and leaves nasty glue marks on the outside of the finish project
that I have been sanding off.

In very tight corners it is most nearly impossible to sand, especially
across the grain.

With the old Elmers wood glue or white glue. I used to wipe it down with
water and that would remove most, if not all of the glue so sanding would
not be a problem and the wood would take a nice stain.

Is there a way one can prevent or easily remove the extra residue of
Ultimate glue or gorilla glue before it dries so I don't have the problems
of sanding in tight corners?

Does anyone have any special tricks up their proverbial sleeves?

Thanks,

Larry


As for polyurethane glue - tried it (naive enough to believe the ads).
Found it seriously wanting, especially in outdoor usages. For

For my money, its TiteBond III for external usages and plastic resin glue
for things that need a long open time. (Saw David Marks use a lot of
plastic resin glue, now I know why)

To date, I have not been disappointed in either. Also, both are much easier
to clean up.