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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Refinishing furniture
We have an old piece of furniture that my wife wants to refinish white
for my daughter's room. The piece is a maple piece varnished with a gloss finish (but finishes are my weak point so I can't tell if it's an oil based varnish or not...). I'm assuming I need to sand, but do I need to sand the finish right off, or just score it so the paint stays? There are a lot of intricate edges on the piece, and sanding by hand might be difficult. Would I be able to use my sandblaster for the those areas? Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend? Thanks John |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Refinishing furniture
"John" wrote in message ... We have an old piece of furniture that my wife wants to refinish white for my daughter's room. The piece is a maple piece varnished with a gloss finish (but finishes are my weak point so I can't tell if it's an oil based varnish or not...). Strip the finish, sand, put a light stain if desired, then refinish with multiple coats of polyurethane, cure four weeks, wet sand, rottenstone, pumice, wax. It will be a lovely piece of furniture rather than a cheap looking white piece. I'm assuming I need to sand, but do I need to sand the finish right off, or just score it so the paint stays? You can go over sanded finish. Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend? Never painted good wood so I don't know for sure. Probably a gloss latex, but the paint store can advise better. Oil enamels are pretty much gone these days. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Refinishing furniture
"John" wrote in message ... We have an old piece of furniture that my wife wants to refinish white for my daughter's room. The piece is a maple piece varnished with a gloss finish (but finishes are my weak point so I can't tell if it's an oil based varnish or not...). I'm assuming I need to sand, but do I need to sand the finish right off, or just score it so the paint stays? There are a lot of intricate edges on the piece, and sanding by hand might be difficult. Would I be able to use my sandblaster for the those areas? Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend? Thanks John If I understant you correctly, you want paint to be the new finished surface. May I suggest you first use a "liquid sand paper" this typically will temperarily prepare the surface to accept paint. Because it is temperary you need to do a section at a time and paint if the piece is intricate. The liquid sand paper is will slightly soften the surface and you can find it at most any paint store or home center. Test in an inconspicious area and see how the results come out. I would also strongly advise using a quality primer followed by an Alkid oil based paint. |
#4
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Refinishing furniture
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message ... Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend? Never painted good wood so I don't know for sure. Probably a gloss latex, but the paint store can advise better. Oil enamels are pretty much gone these days. That is going to be a location thing as oil enamels are still readily available in Texas. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Refinishing furniture
"John" wrote in message
... We have an old piece of furniture that my wife wants to refinish white for my daughter's room. The piece is a maple piece varnished with a gloss finish (but finishes are my weak point so I can't tell if it's an oil based varnish or not...). I'm assuming I need to sand, but do I need to sand the finish right off, or just score it so the paint stays? There are a lot of intricate edges on the piece, and sanding by hand might be difficult. Would I be able to use my sandblaster for the those areas? Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend? Is this a troll? |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Refinishing furniture
I had a piece that sound just like yours. I used a stripper on it (citrus
based)a brass brush and putty knifes to remove the finish. then used the neutralizer (wipe on and off) lightly sanded the entire piece. and just used amber shellac as a finish(I purchased this at a yard sale for 2 bucks it was painted with several colors). but if you want white paint use a good primer and a quality oil based paint )with an paint additive to help smooth it out) Enjoy it really is not hard at all Leonard |
#7
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Refinishing furniture
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend? Never painted good wood so I don't know for sure. Probably a gloss latex, but the paint store can advise better. Oil enamels are pretty much gone these days. Never I mean never paint furniture with a Latex. Unless you never want to sand it again. Ever try to sand latex, it turns to little rubber balls. It does not sand.... Use an Enamel or alkid oil paint. |
#8
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Refinishing furniture
On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 16:49:29 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
wrote the following: "John" wrote in message ... We have an old piece of furniture that my wife wants to refinish white for my daughter's room. The piece is a maple piece varnished with a gloss finish (but finishes are my weak point so I can't tell if it's an oil based varnish or not...). I can't tell from here, either, John. I'm assuming I need to sand, but do I need to sand the finish right off, or just score it so the paint stays? There are a lot of intricate edges on the piece, and sanding by hand might be difficult. Would I be able to use my sandblaster for the those areas? Sure, for +-1/4" surface level tolerances. Go for it! Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend? White, John. Is this a troll? Need you ask? -- Exercise ferments the humors, casts them into their proper channels, throws off redundancies, and helps nature in those secret distributions, without which the body cannot subsist in its vigor, nor the soul act with cheerfulness. -- Joseph Addison, The Spectator, July 12, 1711 |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Refinishing furniture
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
... On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 16:49:29 -0700, "Lobby Dosser" wrote the following: "John" wrote in message ... We have an old piece of furniture that my wife wants to refinish white for my daughter's room. The piece is a maple piece varnished with a gloss finish (but finishes are my weak point so I can't tell if it's an oil based varnish or not...). I can't tell from here, either, John. I'm assuming I need to sand, but do I need to sand the finish right off, or just score it so the paint stays? There are a lot of intricate edges on the piece, and sanding by hand might be difficult. Would I be able to use my sandblaster for the those areas? Sure, for +-1/4" surface level tolerances. Go for it! Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend? White, John. Is this a troll? Need you ask? I thought there might be a one in a thousand chance he was serious, so I thought I'd ask. No harm. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Refinishing furniture
Would I be able to use my sandblaster for the those areas?
Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend? Everyone is over thinking this. Scuff sand all the flat areas and easy areas with like 150 sand paper. Use a scrub pad or sanding sponge on more intricate areas. Get some interior gloss white latex and add some flowtrol and add it per instruction. Get a few nice synthetic brushes and be done by noon. |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Refinishing furniture
In article ,
Ed Pawlowski wrote: "John" wrote in message ... We have an old piece of furniture that my wife wants to refinish white for my daughter's room. The piece is a maple piece varnished with a gloss finish (but finishes are my weak point so I can't tell if it's an oil based varnish or not...). Strip the finish, sand, put a light stain if desired, then refinish with multiple coats of polyurethane, cure four weeks, wet sand, rottenstone, pumice, wax. It will be a lovely piece of furniture rather than a cheap looking white piece. ...snipped... If SWMBO said paint it white, then paint it white. Less work for you, in this case, too. -- Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one. Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org |
#12
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Refinishing furniture
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message ... Would I be able to use my sandblaster for the those areas? Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend? Everyone is over thinking this. Scuff sand all the flat areas and easy areas with like 150 sand paper. Use a scrub pad or sanding sponge on more intricate areas. Get some interior gloss white latex and add some flowtrol and add it per instruction. Get a few nice synthetic brushes and be done by noon. Do you consider that easier than wiping the surface with a dampened rag? |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Refinishing furniture
Do you consider that easier than wiping the surface with a dampened rag?
OK, I shouldn't have said "everyone". I was referring to those who said strip it to bare wood, coat(s) of shellac, a primer, oil paint, etc. I meant just fricking paint it. Also not sure about someones comment about not being able to sand latex. I do it all the time on my distressed pine furniture and she looks beautiful. http://www.sonomaproducts.com/index....ouse&Itemid=19 Click pic for bigger view |
#14
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Refinishing furniture
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message ... Do you consider that easier than wiping the surface with a dampened rag? OK, I shouldn't have said "everyone". LOL... Ok all is well in the world again. |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Refinishing furniture
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message ... Do you consider that easier than wiping the surface with a dampened rag? OK, I shouldn't have said "everyone". I was referring to those who said strip it to bare wood, coat(s) of shellac, a primer, oil paint, etc. I meant just fricking paint it. Also not sure about someones comment about not being able to sand latex. I do it all the time on my distressed pine furniture and she looks beautiful. One more thing concerning that, looking at your pieces I suspect that the latex paint that you are sanding is on bare wood. I have painted a lot of homes and do run into problems with trim if it has been repainted previousely with latex. It will indeed crumble and roll up into small balls as it typically does not adheared well to the previous coat. That is all to do with using the wrong preperation in the first place. That said latex paint on a properly prepaired surface or one with no other previous finish tends to sand well as you have stated. |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Refinishing furniture
Are you saying you can dry sand acrylic latex paint and actually have the
paper cut? * Not so sure about the acrylic designation. I am not so knoweldgable about paint. I buy interior latex house paint. The cheaper the better so it is easier to sand off. Not sure if it makes much difference but I buy it at Walmart, cheap house brand, cheapest by price I can find and I assume cheapest in coverage. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Refinishing furniture
Leon wrote:
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message ... Do you consider that easier than wiping the surface with a dampened rag? OK, I shouldn't have said "everyone". I was referring to those who said strip it to bare wood, coat(s) of shellac, a primer, oil paint, etc. I meant just fricking paint it. Also not sure about someones comment about not being able to sand latex. I do it all the time on my distressed pine furniture and she looks beautiful. One more thing concerning that, looking at your pieces I suspect that the latex paint that you are sanding is on bare wood. I have painted a lot of homes and do run into problems with trim if it has been repainted previousely with latex. It will indeed crumble and roll up into small balls as it typically does not adheared well to the previous coat. That is all to do with using the wrong preperation in the first place. That said latex paint on a properly prepaired surface or one with no other previous finish tends to sand well as you have stated. I made the comment about Latex. I hate to paint, period. So believe me I'm no expert on paint or painting. But I deal with lots of painters. And all have said never use latex on wood. Its great on interior walls but most good or great painters do not use latex on doors and trim. Its a nightmare for the next guy that has to prep that door or trim for paint in the future. If they do run into a home thats had its doors and trim painted with latex they will use a special primer and sand it. At first I didn't believe them so I tried sanded it myself and it did exactly what they said it would. Melted in the sand paper, gummed it up and little balls of **** rolled up all around the surface. That was enough proof for me that the experts know what they're talking about. |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Refinishing furniture
In article 33429940-f61b-4598-b382-492108684ca3
@e5g2000yqn.googlegroups.com, says... We have an old piece of furniture that my wife wants to refinish white for my daughter's room. The piece is a maple piece varnished with a gloss finish (but finishes are my weak point so I can't tell if it's an oil based varnish or not...). I'm assuming I need to sand, but do I need to sand the finish right off, or just score it so the paint stays? There are a lot of intricate edges on the piece, and sanding by hand might be difficult. Would I be able to use my sandblaster for the those areas? Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend? Uh, just old, old or antique, messing with the finish will destroy 95% of its value old? |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Refinishing furniture
"Rich" wrote in message ... Leon wrote: "SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message ... Do you consider that easier than wiping the surface with a dampened rag? OK, I shouldn't have said "everyone". I was referring to those who said strip it to bare wood, coat(s) of shellac, a primer, oil paint, etc. I meant just fricking paint it. Also not sure about someones comment about not being able to sand latex. I do it all the time on my distressed pine furniture and she looks beautiful. One more thing concerning that, looking at your pieces I suspect that the latex paint that you are sanding is on bare wood. I have painted a lot of homes and do run into problems with trim if it has been repainted previousely with latex. It will indeed crumble and roll up into small balls as it typically does not adheared well to the previous coat. That is all to do with using the wrong preperation in the first place. That said latex paint on a properly prepaired surface or one with no other previous finish tends to sand well as you have stated. I made the comment about Latex. I hate to paint, period. So believe me I'm no expert on paint or painting. But I deal with lots of painters. And all have said never use latex on wood. Its great on interior walls but most good or great painters do not use latex on doors and trim. Its a nightmare for the next guy that has to prep that door or trim for paint in the future. If they do run into a home thats had its doors and trim painted with latex they will use a special primer and sand it. At first I didn't believe them so I tried sanded it myself and it did exactly what they said it would. Melted in the sand paper, gummed it up and little balls of **** rolled up all around the surface. That was enough proof for me that the experts know what they're talking about. Did I say any thing to the contrary? |
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