We have an old piece of furniture that my wife wants to refinish white
for my daughter's room. The piece is a maple piece varnished with a
gloss finish (but finishes are my weak point so I can't tell if it's
an oil based varnish or not...).

I'm assuming I need to sand, but do I need to sand the finish right
off, or just score it so the paint stays? There are a lot of
intricate edges on the piece, and sanding by hand might be difficult.
Would I be able to use my sandblaster for the those areas?

Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend?

Thanks

John

"John" wrote in message
...
We have an old piece of furniture that my wife wants to refinish white
for my daughter's room. The piece is a maple piece varnished with a
gloss finish (but finishes are my weak point so I can't tell if it's
an oil based varnish or not...).

Strip the finish, sand, put a light stain if desired, then refinish with
multiple coats of polyurethane, cure four weeks, wet sand, rottenstone,
pumice, wax. It will be a lovely piece of furniture rather than a cheap
looking white piece.

I'm assuming I need to sand, but do I need to sand the finish right
off, or just score it so the paint stays?

You can go over sanded finish.



Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend?

Never painted good wood so I don't know for sure. Probably a gloss latex,
but the paint store can advise better. Oil enamels are pretty much gone
these days.

"John" wrote in message
...
We have an old piece of furniture that my wife wants to refinish white
for my daughter's room. The piece is a maple piece varnished with a
gloss finish (but finishes are my weak point so I can't tell if it's
an oil based varnish or not...).

I'm assuming I need to sand, but do I need to sand the finish right
off, or just score it so the paint stays? There are a lot of
intricate edges on the piece, and sanding by hand might be difficult.
Would I be able to use my sandblaster for the those areas?

Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend?

Thanks

John


If I understant you correctly, you want paint to be the new finished
surface.

May I suggest you first use a "liquid sand paper" this typically will
temperarily prepare the surface to accept paint. Because it is temperary
you need to do a section at a time and paint if the piece is intricate. The
liquid sand paper is will slightly soften the surface and you can find it at
most any paint store or home center.

Test in an inconspicious area and see how the results come out.

I would also strongly advise using a quality primer followed by an Alkid oil
based paint.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...


Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend?

Never painted good wood so I don't know for sure. Probably a gloss latex,
but the paint store can advise better. Oil enamels are pretty much gone
these days.

That is going to be a location thing as oil enamels are still readily
available in Texas.

"John" wrote in message
...
We have an old piece of furniture that my wife wants to refinish white
for my daughter's room. The piece is a maple piece varnished with a
gloss finish (but finishes are my weak point so I can't tell if it's
an oil based varnish or not...).

I'm assuming I need to sand, but do I need to sand the finish right
off, or just score it so the paint stays? There are a lot of
intricate edges on the piece, and sanding by hand might be difficult.
Would I be able to use my sandblaster for the those areas?

Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend?

Is this a troll?

I had a piece that sound just like yours. I used a stripper on it (citrus
based)a brass brush and putty knifes to remove the finish. then used the
neutralizer (wipe on and off) lightly sanded the entire piece. and just used
amber shellac as a finish(I purchased this at a yard sale for 2 bucks it was
painted with several colors). but if you want white paint use a good primer
and a quality oil based paint )with an paint additive to help smooth it out)
Enjoy it really is not hard at all

Leonard

Ed Pawlowski wrote:


Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend?

Never painted good wood so I don't know for sure. Probably a gloss latex,
but the paint store can advise better. Oil enamels are pretty much gone
these days.
Never I mean never paint furniture with a Latex. Unless you never want to
sand it again. Ever try to sand latex, it turns to little rubber balls. It
does not sand.... Use an Enamel or alkid oil paint.

On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 16:49:29 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
wrote the following:

"John" wrote in message
...
We have an old piece of furniture that my wife wants to refinish white
for my daughter's room. The piece is a maple piece varnished with a
gloss finish (but finishes are my weak point so I can't tell if it's
an oil based varnish or not...).

I can't tell from here, either, John.


I'm assuming I need to sand, but do I need to sand the finish right
off, or just score it so the paint stays? There are a lot of
intricate edges on the piece, and sanding by hand might be difficult.
Would I be able to use my sandblaster for the those areas?

Sure, for +-1/4" surface level tolerances. Go for it!


Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend?

White, John.


Is this a troll?

Need you ask?

--
Exercise ferments the humors, casts them into their proper channels,
throws off redundancies, and helps nature in those secret distributions,
without which the body cannot subsist in its vigor, nor the soul act
with cheerfulness. -- Joseph Addison, The Spectator, July 12, 1711

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 18 Jul 2010 16:49:29 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
wrote the following:

"John" wrote in message
...
We have an old piece of furniture that my wife wants to refinish white
for my daughter's room. The piece is a maple piece varnished with a
gloss finish (but finishes are my weak point so I can't tell if it's
an oil based varnish or not...).

I can't tell from here, either, John.


I'm assuming I need to sand, but do I need to sand the finish right
off, or just score it so the paint stays? There are a lot of
intricate edges on the piece, and sanding by hand might be difficult.
Would I be able to use my sandblaster for the those areas?

Sure, for +-1/4" surface level tolerances. Go for it!


Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend?

White, John.


Is this a troll?

Need you ask?

I thought there might be a one in a thousand chance he was serious, so I
thought I'd ask. No harm.

Would I be able to use my sandblaster for the those areas?

Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend?

Everyone is over thinking this. Scuff sand all the flat areas and easy
areas with like 150 sand paper. Use a scrub pad or sanding sponge on
more intricate areas. Get some interior gloss white latex and add some
flowtrol and add it per instruction. Get a few nice synthetic brushes
and be done by noon.

In article ,
Ed Pawlowski wrote:

"John" wrote in message
...
We have an old piece of furniture that my wife wants to refinish white
for my daughter's room. The piece is a maple piece varnished with a
gloss finish (but finishes are my weak point so I can't tell if it's
an oil based varnish or not...).

Strip the finish, sand, put a light stain if desired, then refinish with
multiple coats of polyurethane, cure four weeks, wet sand, rottenstone,
pumice, wax. It will be a lovely piece of furniture rather than a cheap
looking white piece.

...snipped...


If SWMBO said paint it white, then paint it white. Less work for you, in
this case, too.




--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
Would I be able to use my sandblaster for the those areas?

Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend?

Everyone is over thinking this. Scuff sand all the flat areas and easy
areas with like 150 sand paper. Use a scrub pad or sanding sponge on
more intricate areas. Get some interior gloss white latex and add some
flowtrol and add it per instruction. Get a few nice synthetic brushes
and be done by noon.


Do you consider that easier than wiping the surface with a dampened rag?

Do you consider that easier than wiping the surface with a dampened rag?

OK, I shouldn't have said "everyone". I was referring to those who
said strip it to bare wood, coat(s) of shellac, a primer, oil paint,
etc. I meant just fricking paint it.

Also not sure about someones comment about not being able to sand
latex. I do it all the time on my distressed pine furniture and she
looks beautiful.

http://www.sonomaproducts.com/index....ouse&Itemid=19

Click pic for bigger view

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
Do you consider that easier than wiping the surface with a dampened rag?

OK, I shouldn't have said "everyone".


LOL... Ok all is well in the world again.

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
Do you consider that easier than wiping the surface with a dampened rag?

OK, I shouldn't have said "everyone". I was referring to those who
said strip it to bare wood, coat(s) of shellac, a primer, oil paint,
etc. I meant just fricking paint it.

Also not sure about someones comment about not being able to sand
latex. I do it all the time on my distressed pine furniture and she
looks beautiful.


One more thing concerning that, looking at your pieces I suspect that the
latex paint that you are sanding is on bare wood. I have painted a lot of
homes and do run into problems with trim if it has been repainted
previousely with latex. It will indeed crumble and roll up into small balls
as it typically does not adheared well to the previous coat. That is all to
do with using the wrong preperation in the first place.

That said latex paint on a properly prepaired surface or one with no other
previous finish tends to sand well as you have stated.

Are you saying you can dry sand acrylic latex paint and actually have the
paper cut? *

Not so sure about the acrylic designation. I am not so knoweldgable
about paint. I buy interior latex house paint. The cheaper the better
so it is easier to sand off. Not sure if it makes much difference but
I buy it at Walmart, cheap house brand, cheapest by price I can find
and I assume cheapest in coverage.

Leon wrote:


"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
Do you consider that easier than wiping the surface with a dampened rag?

OK, I shouldn't have said "everyone". I was referring to those who
said strip it to bare wood, coat(s) of shellac, a primer, oil paint,
etc. I meant just fricking paint it.

Also not sure about someones comment about not being able to sand
latex. I do it all the time on my distressed pine furniture and she
looks beautiful.


One more thing concerning that, looking at your pieces I suspect that the
latex paint that you are sanding is on bare wood. I have painted a lot of
homes and do run into problems with trim if it has been repainted
previousely with latex. It will indeed crumble and roll up into small
balls
as it typically does not adheared well to the previous coat. That is all
to do with using the wrong preperation in the first place.

That said latex paint on a properly prepaired surface or one with no other
previous finish tends to sand well as you have stated.

I made the comment about Latex. I hate to paint, period. So believe me I'm
no expert on paint or painting. But I deal with lots of painters. And all
have said never use latex on wood. Its great on interior walls but most good
or great painters do not use latex on doors and trim. Its a nightmare for
the next guy that has to prep that door or trim for paint in the future. If
they do run into a home thats had its doors and trim painted with latex they
will use a special primer and sand it. At first I didn't believe them so I
tried sanded it myself and it did exactly what they said it would. Melted in
the sand paper, gummed it up and little balls of **** rolled up all around
the surface. That was enough proof for me that the experts know what they're
talking about.

In article 33429940-f61b-4598-b382-492108684ca3
@e5g2000yqn.googlegroups.com, says...
We have an old piece of furniture that my wife wants to refinish white
for my daughter's room. The piece is a maple piece varnished with a
gloss finish (but finishes are my weak point so I can't tell if it's
an oil based varnish or not...).

I'm assuming I need to sand, but do I need to sand the finish right
off, or just score it so the paint stays? There are a lot of
intricate edges on the piece, and sanding by hand might be difficult.
Would I be able to use my sandblaster for the those areas?

Also, what kinds of paint would people recommend?

Uh, just old, old or antique, messing with the finish will destroy 95%
of its value old?

"Rich" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:


"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
Do you consider that easier than wiping the surface with a dampened
rag?

OK, I shouldn't have said "everyone". I was referring to those who
said strip it to bare wood, coat(s) of shellac, a primer, oil paint,
etc. I meant just fricking paint it.

Also not sure about someones comment about not being able to sand
latex. I do it all the time on my distressed pine furniture and she
looks beautiful.


One more thing concerning that, looking at your pieces I suspect that the
latex paint that you are sanding is on bare wood. I have painted a lot
of
homes and do run into problems with trim if it has been repainted
previousely with latex. It will indeed crumble and roll up into small
balls
as it typically does not adheared well to the previous coat. That is all
to do with using the wrong preperation in the first place.

That said latex paint on a properly prepaired surface or one with no
other
previous finish tends to sand well as you have stated.

I made the comment about Latex. I hate to paint, period. So believe me I'm
no expert on paint or painting. But I deal with lots of painters. And all
have said never use latex on wood. Its great on interior walls but most
good
or great painters do not use latex on doors and trim. Its a nightmare for
the next guy that has to prep that door or trim for paint in the future.
If
they do run into a home thats had its doors and trim painted with latex
they
will use a special primer and sand it. At first I didn't believe them so I
tried sanded it myself and it did exactly what they said it would. Melted
in
the sand paper, gummed it up and little balls of **** rolled up all around
the surface. That was enough proof for me that the experts know what
they're
talking about.



Did I say any thing to the contrary?