The arbor on my Jet cabinet saw seems to have about 2-3 thousandths of
side to side play. I pulled off the belts and the arbor can be moved
side to side in the arbor bracket.

Here is the diagram.
http://tinypic.com/m/8yxa2x/3

It seems like 116 (arbor nut) is a bit loose such that 104 (the arbor)
has some side-to-side play. It seems like if I was able to tighten it
1/8th of a turn it would take up .002 to .003” and be solid.

Initially I thought there was some wobble in the bearings (106), but
with the belts off and out of the way it seems like the play is really
side-to-side with the arbor.

115 (spanner nut) does thread into the 114 (arbor bracket). Is the
spanner nut just to hold the bearings in-place? And then the arbor
nut (116) is what holds the arbor inside the bearings?

Now getting a wrench onto that arbor nut will be a challenge as it
fits inside the spanner nut. (The spanner nut is threaded into the
arbor bracket and then the arbor nut is threaded onto the arbor but
that is tucked inside the spanner nut. So I need a thin-walled socket
to fit in there.

I’m just wondering if the side-to-side play might be intentional. It
seems you would want it snug, but not tight.

Are you measuring this with a tool ???

A TS-Aligner would be good for that.

A arbor is not supposed to move in any direction.

This "sounds" like the arbor bracket might be screwed, if
the bearing are good.

kansascats wrote:
The arbor on my Jet cabinet saw seems to have about 2-3 thousandths of
side to side play. I pulled off the belts and the arbor can be moved
side to side in the arbor bracket.

No.. what I'm saying is he arbor bolt moves side to side about .002
to .003 (by feel). I could get out the dial indicator, but don't
need to, I can feel it. I'm just wondering if I can tighten up the
arbor nut (not the one that holds the balde on -- but rather the other
side -- see diagram). That nut seems like what holds the arbor in the
arbor bracket. If one was to replace the bearings, one would remove
that nut, loosen the set screws in the pulley, remove the spanner nut
and pull the assembly apart. I'm just wondering if I should try to
tighten the arbor nut and if that will take out the play.

I would agree with tightening the arbor nut. Once snugged to remove
the obvious play, test it by hand turning. If that feels good, spin
it with the motor (no blade, of course) a bit. If all is good, spin
it, more, with the motor. Check for heat build-up in the bearing
area, also, just in case something is too tight, but not visably
observable.

I don't suppose there is any mention, anywhere, of the arbor nut
having a specific torque, for its tightening?

Otherwise, give Jet a call.

Sonny

I've asked Jet for a procedure to replace the bearings. Figure it
should be in there. We'll see.

I'm not 100% sure on this, but I'll take a shot anyway .. .. I think if
you loosen the locknut (#116) .. then snug up the spanner nut (#106)
just a bit .. then retighten the locknut .. you should be fine. You
are really not pulling the two bearings together with great force, as
there is a wavy washer a(#107) to act as a tension buffer. If #107 is
a wavy washer, it may have taken a bit of a set, and relieved the
pressure it exerts a bit, causing your problem. If you push the arbor
in .. and it returns on it's own .. even if it is just a few thou. ..
it's probably OK .. but you can still snug up the assembly if you feel
better about it. Does it affect the cut .. AND .. has it always been
there or have you just noticed it ?? If the cut is good, and MAYBE
it's been like this all along .. it might be perfectly acceptable to
leave it alone.

On 2/4/2010 3:43 PM, kansascats wrote:
The arbor on my Jet cabinet saw seems to have about 2-3 thousandths of
side to side play. I pulled off the belts and the arbor can be moved
side to side in the arbor bracket.

Here is the diagram.
http://tinypic.com/m/8yxa2x/3

It seems like 116 (arbor nut) is a bit loose such that 104 (the arbor)
has some side-to-side play. It seems like if I was able to tighten it
1/8th of a turn it would take up .002 to .003” and be solid.

Initially I thought there was some wobble in the bearings (106), but
with the belts off and out of the way it seems like the play is really
side-to-side with the arbor.

115 (spanner nut) does thread into the 114 (arbor bracket). Is the
spanner nut just to hold the bearings in-place? And then the arbor
nut (116) is what holds the arbor inside the bearings?

Now getting a wrench onto that arbor nut will be a challenge as it
fits inside the spanner nut. (The spanner nut is threaded into the
arbor bracket and then the arbor nut is threaded onto the arbor but
that is tucked inside the spanner nut. So I need a thin-walled socket
to fit in there.

I’m just wondering if the side-to-side play might be intentional. It
seems you would want it snug, but not tight.

The arbot bolt (104) passes through 106 (bearing) and 115 (spanner
nut). The nut (116) screws directly onto the threaded end of the
arbor bolt (104). From what I can see, the spanner nut simply holds
the bearings in-place, and the nut (116) keeps the arbor in-place
(from sliding side to side) inside the bearings, allthough the pulley
(110) also keeps the assembly locked in-place side to side. The
spanner nut (115) actually threads into the arbor bracket (114). So I
think all I need to do is tighten that nut (116). But that seems too
simple -- hard to believe that one nut is all there is to it. But
visually that seems to be the case. I cannot see the load spacers
(107 and 108) on either side.

I do get some saw marks -- that in my opinion should not be there. I
figured the arbor should have no play what-so-ever.

That arbor nut would seem to be special. I cannot find a socket to
fit on it. It looks like a 7/8" would fit, but it's just a bit
small. 7/8 is about the largest one can find for 3/8" drive. If I
go to 1/2" drive, then I run into the case where the walls of the
socket are too thick and do not fit inside that spanner nut.

"kansascats" wrote in message
...
That arbor nut would seem to be special. I cannot find a socket to
fit on it. It looks like a 7/8" would fit, but it's just a bit
small. 7/8 is about the largest one can find for 3/8" drive. If I
go to 1/2" drive, then I run into the case where the walls of the
socket are too thick and do not fit inside that spanner nut.

kansascats,
Sears sells a 3/8" drive socket set that goes to 15/16", and sell individual
sockets in some sizes.
Kerry

"kansascats" wrote in message
...
That arbor nut would seem to be special. I cannot find a socket to
fit on it. It looks like a 7/8" would fit, but it's just a bit
small. 7/8 is about the largest one can find for 3/8" drive. If I
go to 1/2" drive, then I run into the case where the walls of the
socket are too thick and do not fit inside that spanner nut.

Being a Jet, it's likley metric.

On Thu, 4 Feb 2010 12:43:37 -0800 (PST), kansascats wrote:

The arbor on my Jet cabinet saw seems to have about 2-3 thousandths of
side to side play. I pulled off the belts and the arbor can be moved
side to side in the arbor bracket.


Just wondering, did you get this successfully resolved? I have the same saw, give or take a
variation. No problems so far, but just in case.....


Thanks,
Roy

Not really resolved yet. Can you feel any side to side play in your
arbor. It's easier to feel with the belts off. I clearly have .005"
of play (put the dial indicator to it). It seems like if I tightened
that right side arbor nut it would take-up the play, but getting onto
that nut is a bear. A 7/8" socket is too small. I guess that
suggests 23 (rare) or 24mm, and then it's unlikely I can clear the
walls of the spanner nut -- which means likely that needs to come out
first. I tried an ajustable pin wrench, but that's not going to work
in amongst the trunnion assembly -- not space to navigate. The 1/2"
sockets I have are too "thick" to fit. I have yet to find a 24mm
3/8" socket.

I've posted this update on woodcentral... pasting it here..

I took off the pulley-side arbor nut, loosened the pulley set screws,
and with a block of wood drove out the arbor from the bearings. The
blade-side bearing came out with the arbor. I looked it over, and it
seemed like the blade-side bearing might be a bit loose-- but very
small amount. I was going to get a new set of bearings and just
replace them. But since I couldn't find a local store with bearings
today, I took a look at what it was going to take to get that other
bearing out. With the top on, it was going to be a real bear to loosen
that spanner nut (then tap out the bearnig with a larger block of
wood. (And then I'd have to figure out a way to pull the other bearing
off nearly the full length of the arbor-- and get the new one back
on!) So I thought I'd just put it all back together as a practice run
to see how hard it was going to be to put back what I had taken apart.
I needed my son to hold the pulley and one spacer in-place, but we
mananged to get it back together. With a block of wood on the blade-
side arbor, using a hammer we tapped it mostly into place, and then
using the arbor nut we snugged it all together tight. Then I backed
off the arbor nut about 1/4 turn. It seems like it might be just a bit
stiffer on the rotation than it was before, but it does spin freely
and surprise, surprise -- all the play is gone! My guess is that maybe
all the inner runs -- arbor, arbor spacer, pulley, arbor spacer, and
arbor nut were not tight to begin with. When I spin it up, it sounds
fine. I does concern me a bit that I had to put quite a bit of
leverage on the arbor nut when I tighten it up -- to fully draw in the
blade-side bearing -- and that it seems to spin maybe just a bit less
freely. But time will tell I guess, and for now, it's solid like I
would expect it to be.

When I say quite a bit of leverage, I was using a 15/16" socket on a
1/2" drive ratchet with a handle that is 7" long -- while I was
sitting awkwardly below the saw. So not sure how much real leverage I
could apply. I guess that wavy washer/load space is in the arbor
assembly putting some pressure on the outer run of the bearing. The
leverage I put on the arbor nut should have just pulled the inner runs
(blade side arbor - bearing - spacer - pulley - spacer -- nut)
together, and the outer runs are sitting in the arbor housing. The
pulley-side bearing outer run is tight in the housing by virtue of the
spanner nut.