On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 11:17:55 -0800, the infamous Mike M
scrawled the following:

On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 02:56:31 -0500, "Bill"
wrote:


It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more than
1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
without one, which I ended up doing twice. So, tonight I went searching
online for a level. I assume that levels with magnets stick to the studs in
walls (is that correct?). Any other uses for a "magnetic level"? I'm
focusing now on the 24" size. Stanley makes several, basic version from
about $16 up to a FatMax Extreme version which is supposed to be 5x as
strong and accurate to .0005"/inch. for about $35. I would anticipate also
using the level to install machinery (TS, BS, DP) and a homemade workbench
on a concrete floor with several cracks (hench not level). I know that the
workbench and vise should be level! I expect that a Starrett combination
square that I expect to have by then will be helpful too in this regard--at
least I should be able to see to it that the top of the bench and the top of
the vise are coplanar. So based on the installations I have suggested
above, what else do you think I need to know about selecting a level?
Reliability is important, of course. I read somewhere that those with
"caps" on the ends (which may include the ones I mentioned) have the
potential to be less reliable.

Thank you,
Bill

I keep waiting for the sound of the reel letting out line.

I distinctly heard the click. The line feeding out is probably too
quiet to hear over the Internet.

--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------

On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 23:49:23 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
scrawled the following:

Leon wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
HeyBub wrote:
Bill wrote:



My tub had a slope the wrong way when I bought the house. Rotted out
quite
a lot before I finally figured out what the problem was and fixed it.


Your tub rotted?

Nope. The wall, the floor, the joists, . . .

Gee, I'd have put the water in the TUB, not on the floor, J. No wonder
things went wonky on ya.

--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

I keep waiting for the sound of the reel letting out line.

I distinctly heard the click. The line feeding out is probably too
quiet to hear over the Internet.


Out of all of the posts to this tread, this is the one you chose to reply
to?
I was hoping to read something interesting. If you want to chase the fish,
you should probably choose one less piscatorially-oriented who can't
tie a royal coachman with the same ease with which you tie your shoes....
Maybe you should stick to music? Repeat at Cod(a)?

Bill




--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------

Bill wrote:
"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message
...
Bill wrote:

It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more
than
1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
without one, which I ended up doing twice.
... snip

While a level is sometimes important for such projects, there are other
times you don't want what you are mounting level, you want it parallel to
the ceiling (for a flat ceiling).

I was thinking about using my jointer plane (and others) on work in a vise
(or on the workbench). I thought I read that it was important that the work
be level,
and this makes sense to me for several reasons. One may be so that one may
use ones internal sense of "down" (i.e. gravity) to guide the cut. I speak
without
much experience; comments always welcome.

Bill



The bench that my large vise is mounted to is "sorta" level. Depending
on how much of a hurry I'm in, the piece to be planed may or may not be
even with the jaws of the vise.

And you're right. The piece you're working on should be close to being
level or at least parallel (kinda) to the floor.

But it's like Leon was saying about the curtain rods. If you mount a
piece of wood into the vise and it looks ok, it likely is. When you're
pushing through on a plane stroke, the plane sole will follow the edge
of the wood by itself. And your push stroke will follow the lead of the
plane, within reason.

There are quite a number of things to think about when you're planing a
piece of wood, and when you're new at it, some of them are critical if
you want a smooth surface. Having the piece dead-nuts level to the floor
or the bench isn't one of them.

I'm not trying to talk you out of getting a level. I've had one for
years, and if I lost it, I'd immediately get another one. I just never
use it inside the shop.

YMMV

Tanus

"Tanus" wrote in message ...
Bill wrote:
"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message
...
Bill wrote:

It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring more
than
1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
without one, which I ended up doing twice.
... snip

While a level is sometimes important for such projects, there are other
times you don't want what you are mounting level, you want it parallel
to
the ceiling (for a flat ceiling).

I was thinking about using my jointer plane (and others) on work in a
vise
(or on the workbench). I thought I read that it was important that the
work be level,
and this makes sense to me for several reasons. One may be so that one
may
use ones internal sense of "down" (i.e. gravity) to guide the cut. I
speak without
much experience; comments always welcome.

Bill

The bench that my large vise is mounted to is "sorta" level. Depending on
how much of a hurry I'm in, the piece to be planed may or may not be even
with the jaws of the vise.

And you're right. The piece you're working on should be close to being
level or at least parallel (kinda) to the floor.

But it's like Leon was saying about the curtain rods. If you mount a piece
of wood into the vise and it looks ok, it likely is. When you're pushing
through on a plane stroke, the plane sole will follow the edge of the wood
by itself. And your push stroke will follow the lead of the plane, within
reason.

There are quite a number of things to think about when you're planing a
piece of wood, and when you're new at it, some of them are critical if you
want a smooth surface. Having the piece dead-nuts level to the floor or
the bench isn't one of them.

I'm not trying to talk you out of getting a level. I've had one for years,
and if I lost it, I'd immediately get another one. I just never use it
inside the shop.

YMMV

Tanus

Nice post. One thing I've learned from this thread is that one doesn't
alway
want things to be level, necessarily. I was thinking about arranging some
chunks of broken concrete to create curved walls encompassing a tree or
flower bed (or both). Is a level good for that or do I need a transit
(too)? ; )

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"Tanus" wrote in message ...
Bill wrote:
"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message
...
Bill wrote:

It appears that installing just about anything on a wall requiring
more
than
1 screw or nail calls for a level. I did a project just the other day
without one, which I ended up doing twice.
... snip

While a level is sometimes important for such projects, there are
other
times you don't want what you are mounting level, you want it parallel
to
the ceiling (for a flat ceiling).

I was thinking about using my jointer plane (and others) on work in a
vise
(or on the workbench). I thought I read that it was important that the
work be level,
and this makes sense to me for several reasons. One may be so that one
may
use ones internal sense of "down" (i.e. gravity) to guide the cut. I
speak without
much experience; comments always welcome.

Bill

The bench that my large vise is mounted to is "sorta" level. Depending on
how much of a hurry I'm in, the piece to be planed may or may not be even
with the jaws of the vise.

And you're right. The piece you're working on should be close to being
level or at least parallel (kinda) to the floor.

But it's like Leon was saying about the curtain rods. If you mount a
piece of wood into the vise and it looks ok, it likely is. When you're
pushing through on a plane stroke, the plane sole will follow the edge of
the wood by itself. And your push stroke will follow the lead of the
plane, within reason.

There are quite a number of things to think about when you're planing a
piece of wood, and when you're new at it, some of them are critical if
you want a smooth surface. Having the piece dead-nuts level to the floor
or the bench isn't one of them.

I'm not trying to talk you out of getting a level. I've had one for
years, and if I lost it, I'd immediately get another one. I just never
use it inside the shop.

YMMV

Tanus

Nice post. One thing I've learned from this thread is that one doesn't
alway
want things to be level, necessarily. I was thinking about arranging some
chunks of broken concrete to create curved walls encompassing a tree or
flower bed (or both). Is a level good for that or do I need a transit
(too)? ; )

Bill


I don't want to make it seem like I want to post replies to my own post, but
the
following laser level seems like an easy way of making all of one's "flower
beds"
are the same height--or at least the same elevation... Not sure which of
these is better.
My dad, RIP, would have liked to tell me. He was a civil engineer and
outstanding at landscaping.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...208&lpage=none

Bill

On Dec 14, 2:56*am, "Bill" wrote:

I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work reasonably
well.

Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
(and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first fastener
and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the next fastener -
repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between the first and last
marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.

On Dec 16, 11:09*am, Hoosierpopi wrote:
On Dec 14, 2:56*am, "Bill" wrote:

I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work reasonably
well.

I like mine too. It's great for hanging pictures or towel rods. The
pin is enough to hang the thing and doesn't completely mess up the
sheetrock.

Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
(and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first fastener
and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the next fastener -
repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between the first and last
marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.

Since I got the B&D laser thingy I haven't used a level on finished
walls.

Hoosierpopi wrote:
On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" wrote:

I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work reasonably
well.

Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
(and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first fastener
and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the next fastener -
repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between the first and last
marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.

Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
wall, transfer marks off board to wall.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:

Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
wall, transfer marks off board to wall.

Or mark on the level if you can ...

First rule of accuracy and efficiency in hanging "stuff" on walls is to
never measure when you can mark.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 18:34:30 -0500, the infamous "Bill"
scrawled the following:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .

I keep waiting for the sound of the reel letting out line.

I distinctly heard the click. The line feeding out is probably too
quiet to hear over the Internet.


Out of all of the posts to this tread, this is the one you chose to reply
to?

Y'mean "thread"?


I was hoping to read something interesting. If you want to chase the fish,
you should probably choose one less piscatorially-oriented who can't
tie a royal coachman with the same ease with which you tie your shoes....
Maybe you should stick to music? Repeat at Cod(a)?

Actually, we weren't referring to fish. Clues are for sale at...Oh,
never mind.

P.S: I tie my tennies loosely so I can don them like slip-ons. My
laces are stitched so they don't come undone, as they were wont to.
Ta!

--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------

Swingman wrote:
Hoosierpopi wrote:
On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" wrote:

I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work reasonably
well.

Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
(and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first fastener
and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the next fastener -
repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between the first and last
marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.

Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
wall, transfer marks off board to wall.


Yep

"Tanus" wrote in message ...
Swingman wrote:
Hoosierpopi wrote:
On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" wrote:

I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work reasonably
well.

Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
(and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first fastener
and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the next fastener -
repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between the first and last
marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.

Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the wall,
transfer marks off board to wall.


Yep

Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
instance if you were
building two structures that you wanted to "match")? Guess that's when it's
time for
one of those laser levels, no?

Bill

Bill wrote:
"Tanus" wrote in message ...
Swingman wrote:
Hoosierpopi wrote:
On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" wrote:

I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work reasonably
well.

Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
(and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first fastener
and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the next fastener -
repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between the first and last
marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.

Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the wall,
transfer marks off board to wall.

Yep

Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
instance if you were building two structures that you wanted to "match")?
Guess that's when it's time for one of those laser levels, no?

I have three laser levels, none of which I would usually bother to take
out to "hang something" on the wall, unless, of course, it was a row of
kitchen cabinets ...

So yep ... they do come in handy.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Bill wrote:
"Tanus" wrote in message
...
Swingman wrote:
Hoosierpopi wrote:
On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" wrote:

I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work
reasonably well.

Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
(and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first
fastener and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the
next fastener - repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between
the first and last marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.

Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
wall, transfer marks off board to wall.


Yep

Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
instance if you were
building two structures that you wanted to "match")? Guess that's
when it's time for
one of those laser levels, no?

String with a level hung on it will come pretty close--probably be as
accurate as a cheap laser level--if you want to be precise use a garden hose
and a couple of lengths of clear vinyl tubing stuck into the ends of it


Bill

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Bill wrote:
"Tanus" wrote in message
...
Swingman wrote:
Hoosierpopi wrote:
On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" wrote:

I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work
reasonably well.

Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
(and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first
fastener and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the
next fastener - repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between
the first and last marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.

Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
wall, transfer marks off board to wall.


Yep

Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
instance if you were
building two structures that you wanted to "match")? Guess that's
when it's time for
one of those laser levels, no?

String with a level hung on it will come pretty close--probably be as
accurate as a cheap laser level

Good idea!

--if you want to be precise use a garden hose
and a couple of lengths of clear vinyl tubing stuck into the ends of it

Priceless! :::a few claps directed your way:::
Look me a few minutes to figure it out! The water levels at each end will
always match! : )
A lot of potential the Pound two stakes into the ground, attach the ends
of the hose to the stakes, fill with water,
and mark the levels. A beautiful solution, IMO. Where did you learn that
trick?

Bill



Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Bill wrote:
"Tanus" wrote in message
...
Swingman wrote:
Hoosierpopi wrote:
On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" wrote:

I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work
reasonably well.

Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
(and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first
fastener and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the
next fastener - repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between
the first and last marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.

Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
wall, transfer marks off board to wall.


Yep

Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
instance if you were
building two structures that you wanted to "match")? Guess that's
when it's time for
one of those laser levels, no?

String with a level hung on it will come pretty close--probably be as
accurate as a cheap laser level

Good idea!

--if you want to be precise use a garden hose
and a couple of lengths of clear vinyl tubing stuck into the ends of it

Priceless! :::a few claps directed your way:::
Look me a few minutes to figure it out! The water levels at each end will
always match! : )
A lot of potential the Pound two stakes into the ground, attach the
ends of the hose to the stakes, fill with water,
and mark the levels. A beautiful solution, IMO. Where did you learn that
trick?

Water levels have been around for ever.

"CW" wrote in message
m...

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Bill wrote:
"Tanus" wrote in message
...
Swingman wrote:
Hoosierpopi wrote:
On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" wrote:

I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work
reasonably well.

Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
(and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first
fastener and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the
next fastener - repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between
the first and last marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.

Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
wall, transfer marks off board to wall.


Yep

Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
instance if you were
building two structures that you wanted to "match")? Guess that's
when it's time for
one of those laser levels, no?

String with a level hung on it will come pretty close--probably be as
accurate as a cheap laser level

Good idea!

--if you want to be precise use a garden hose
and a couple of lengths of clear vinyl tubing stuck into the ends of it

Priceless! :::a few claps directed your way:::
Look me a few minutes to figure it out! The water levels at each end
will always match! : )
A lot of potential the Pound two stakes into the ground, attach the
ends of the hose to the stakes, fill with water,
and mark the levels. A beautiful solution, IMO. Where did you learn
that trick?

Water levels have been around for ever.

I guess there's not enough markup on them to make them popular...

"CW" wrote:

Water levels have been around for ever.

For less than $20, Home Depot will gladly sell you a 9VDC battery
operated unit made in San Diego.

A bottle of red food coloring, some water, and you are good to go.

Lew

Bill wrote:
"CW" wrote in message
m...
"Bill" wrote in message
...
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Bill wrote:
"Tanus" wrote in message
...
Swingman wrote:
Hoosierpopi wrote:
On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" wrote:

I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work
reasonably well.

Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
(and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first
fastener and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the
next fastener - repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between
the first and last marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.
Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
wall, transfer marks off board to wall.

Yep
Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
instance if you were
building two structures that you wanted to "match")? Guess that's
when it's time for
one of those laser levels, no?
String with a level hung on it will come pretty close--probably be as
accurate as a cheap laser level
Good idea!

--if you want to be precise use a garden hose
and a couple of lengths of clear vinyl tubing stuck into the ends of it
Priceless! :::a few claps directed your way:::
Look me a few minutes to figure it out! The water levels at each end
will always match! : )
A lot of potential the Pound two stakes into the ground, attach the
ends of the hose to the stakes, fill with water,
and mark the levels. A beautiful solution, IMO. Where did you learn
that trick?
Water levels have been around for ever.

I guess there's not enough markup on them to make them popular...

Too easy to make ... all you need is some clear plastic tubing and
water. Still, they are more accurate than any other level, including lasers.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"CW" wrote in message
m...

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Bill wrote:
"Tanus" wrote in message
...
Swingman wrote:
Hoosierpopi wrote:
On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" wrote:

I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work
reasonably well.

Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
(and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first
fastener and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the
next fastener - repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between
the first and last marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.

Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
wall, transfer marks off board to wall.


Yep

Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
instance if you were
building two structures that you wanted to "match")? Guess that's
when it's time for
one of those laser levels, no?

String with a level hung on it will come pretty close--probably be as
accurate as a cheap laser level

Good idea!

--if you want to be precise use a garden hose
and a couple of lengths of clear vinyl tubing stuck into the ends of it

Priceless! :::a few claps directed your way:::
Look me a few minutes to figure it out! The water levels at each end
will always match! : )
A lot of potential the Pound two stakes into the ground, attach the
ends of the hose to the stakes, fill with water,
and mark the levels. A beautiful solution, IMO. Where did you learn
that trick?

Water levels have been around for ever.

I guess there's not enough markup on them to make them popular...


They are becoming hard to find. Let's see a laser level around a corner.

"CW" wrote in message
m...

"Bill" wrote in message
...



Water levels have been around for ever.

I guess there's not enough markup on them to make them popular...


They are becoming hard to find. Let's see a laser level around a corner.

Hard to find? Vinyl tubing is everywhere. Water is quite common.

--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...

"CW" wrote in message
m...

"Bill" wrote in message
...



Water levels have been around for ever.

I guess there's not enough markup on them to make them popular...


They are becoming hard to find. Let's see a laser level around a corner.

Hard to find? Vinyl tubing is everywhere. Water is quite common.

Let me know the next time a salesman informs you about one of these water
levels...
That's the job of a salesman, to inform, right? ; )




--

-Mike-

On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 15:40:21 -0500, "Bill"
wrote:


"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
.. .

"CW" wrote in message
m...

"Bill" wrote in message
...



Water levels have been around for ever.

I guess there's not enough markup on them to make them popular...


They are becoming hard to find. Let's see a laser level around a corner.

Hard to find? Vinyl tubing is everywhere. Water is quite common.

Let me know the next time a salesman informs you about one of these water
levels...
That's the job of a salesman, to inform, right? ; )

I've seen water levels for sale in stores. Ok, it was a little thingy
with a buzzer when the water at the other end was at the mark. I
supposed it would be somewhat useful. I always found a couple of
nails and a measure worked fine.

On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 22:35:26 -0500, "Bill"
wrote:


"CW" wrote in message
om...

"Bill" wrote in message
...

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Bill wrote:
"Tanus" wrote in message
...
Swingman wrote:
Hoosierpopi wrote:
On Dec 14, 2:56 am, "Bill" wrote:

I use those Black and Decker Laser Level things. They work
reasonably well.

Where I need more than one fastener to hang something, I will mark
(and drive a finish nail temporarily) or position the first
fastener and lay the (ordinary 4' level) upon it to locate the
next fastener - repeating as necessary. Then, using a line between
the first and last marks, "measure twice" or double check my work.

Simpler and more precise: Use 1x board that is a bit longer than the
distance between the two end fasteners, hold board up to piece to be
hung, transfer/mark fastener positions to board, level board on the
wall, transfer marks off board to wall.


Yep

Nice idea. What's a good way when the distance is 30 feet or so (for
instance if you were
building two structures that you wanted to "match")? Guess that's
when it's time for
one of those laser levels, no?

String with a level hung on it will come pretty close--probably be as
accurate as a cheap laser level

Good idea!

--if you want to be precise use a garden hose
and a couple of lengths of clear vinyl tubing stuck into the ends of it

Priceless! :::a few claps directed your way:::
Look me a few minutes to figure it out! The water levels at each end
will always match! : )
A lot of potential the Pound two stakes into the ground, attach the
ends of the hose to the stakes, fill with water,
and mark the levels. A beautiful solution, IMO. Where did you learn
that trick?

Water levels have been around for ever.

I guess there's not enough markup on them to make them popular...

Actually used to be VERY common for installing suspended ceiling
grids.

"Bill" wrote in message
...

Let me know the next time a salesman informs you about one of these water
levels...
That's the job of a salesman, to inform, right? ; )


You don't buy a water level, you build one.

--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote:

You don't buy a water level, you build one.

Got $20 and a Home Depot handy?

Gladly sell you one.

Add a 9VDC battery, red food coloring and water.

You are good to go.

BTW, the audible alarm works wonders when your reference point is out
of sight and you are working alone.

BTDT

Lew

On Thu, 17 Dec 2009 15:40:21 -0500, the infamous "Bill"
scrawled the following:


"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
.. .

"CW" wrote in message
m...

"Bill" wrote in message
...



Water levels have been around for ever.

I guess there's not enough markup on them to make them popular...


They are becoming hard to find. Let's see a laser level around a corner.

Hard to find? Vinyl tubing is everywhere. Water is quite common.

Let me know the next time a salesman informs you about one of these water
levels...
That's the job of a salesman, to inform, right? ; )

I picked up 4' of 1/2" vinyl tubing and two hose end adapters so I
could make a water level out of any garden hose. About $8 at bLowes.
Fill with water, mark lines, quickclamp to the posts, and go!

--
Indifference to evidence: Climate alarmists have become brilliantly
adept at changing their terms to suit their convenience. So it's
"global warming" when there's a heat wave, but it's "climate change"
when there's a cold snap. The earth has registered no discernable
warming in the past 10 years: Very well then, they say, natural
variability must be the cause. But as for the warming that did occur
in the 1980s and 1990s, that plainly was evidence of man-made warming.
Am I missing something here? --Brett Stephens, WSJ Opinion 12/09/09