I have just got a JET 1.5 HP cansiter dust collector. It has two 4"
inlets that are placed over a 6" inlet -- a very standard thing for a
single stage dust collector. I would like to get rid of those two 4"
inlets and connect a 6" duct directly to the 6" inlet. I know this can
be done because I believe many people have done that before. My
question is: How?

The 6" inlet only has a 1.75" flange. Can I simply use a hose-clamp to
clamp a duct onto the 6" inlet? I am afraid that the 1.75" flange
doesn't provide enough area for the hose-clamp to lock the hose down.
Is there a better way to do this?

Background info that may or may not be relevant:
I want to use a 6" duct connecting to the 6" inlet. The 6" duct
will be a metal fitting that has a 6" opening and a small 2" (or
2.5"?) branching out at a 45-degree angle. I believe it is called a
"45-degree lateral" or something like that.
I will run a short length of 6" flex hose from the metal duct to
the dust port under the table saw, and I will run a short length of 2"
flex hose from the metal duct to the top of the table saw right over
the saw blade. I will move the dust collector to as close to the
table saw as possible; therefore, I don't need any other ductwork. If
I need to capture dust from another power tool, I will move the dust
collector to that power tool, no problem.

Thanks for any info in advance.

Jay Chan

"Jay Chan" wrote in message

The 6" inlet only has a 1.75" flange. Can I simply use a hose-clamp to
clamp a duct onto the 6" inlet? I am afraid that the 1.75" flange
doesn't provide enough area for the hose-clamp to lock the hose down.
Is there a better way to do this?

The clamp is only about 1/2" wide or less, so the 1.75" will be plenty to
grab. You canalways pop a couple of sheetmetal screws into it.

I have to wonder as the diameter of duct increases ,using the incompressable
fluid formula [and I am well aware air is compressable] ...Q=AV where A is
the duct area, V is the velocity in the duct and Q is the volumetric flow
rate , then the velocity will decrease for a given flow rate .

Considering the above seems to me the heavier dust particleswill just fall
to the bottom of the duct and stay there as the velocity gradient there is
theoretically zero, that is until enough of them are deposited to reduce the
effective area and in turn increase the duct velocity. To me it's kind of
like which came first the chicken or the egg, I suppose at some point the
whole thing stabilizes ???mjh


"Jay Chan" wrote in message
om...
I have just got a JET 1.5 HP cansiter dust collector. It has two 4"
inlets that are placed over a 6" inlet -- a very standard thing for a
single stage dust collector. I would like to get rid of those two 4"
inlets and connect a 6" duct directly to the 6" inlet. I know this can
be done because I believe many people have done that before. My
question is: How?

The 6" inlet only has a 1.75" flange. Can I simply use a hose-clamp to
clamp a duct onto the 6" inlet? I am afraid that the 1.75" flange
doesn't provide enough area for the hose-clamp to lock the hose down.
Is there a better way to do this?

Background info that may or may not be relevant:
I want to use a 6" duct connecting to the 6" inlet. The 6" duct
will be a metal fitting that has a 6" opening and a small 2" (or
2.5"?) branching out at a 45-degree angle. I believe it is called a
"45-degree lateral" or something like that.
I will run a short length of 6" flex hose from the metal duct to
the dust port under the table saw, and I will run a short length of 2"
flex hose from the metal duct to the top of the table saw right over
the saw blade. I will move the dust collector to as close to the
table saw as possible; therefore, I don't need any other ductwork. If
I need to capture dust from another power tool, I will move the dust
collector to that power tool, no problem.

Thanks for any info in advance.

Jay Chan

"Jay Chan" wrote in message
om...
snip
The 6" inlet only has a 1.75" flange. Can I simply use a hose-clamp to
clamp a duct onto the 6" inlet? I am afraid that the 1.75" flange
doesn't provide enough area for the hose-clamp to lock the hose down.
Is there a better way to do this?

snip Jay Chan

The hose clamp should be plenty, don't forget it's mainly just holding while
the machine is off, when it's on the vacuum itself is trying to pull it
tighter.

Bernard R

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

The clamp is only about 1/2" wide or less, so the 1.75" will be
plenty to grab.

Back on the farm we sometimes put two or three clamps on a connection when
one wasn't enough.

-- Mark

run a pair of sheet metal screws through it.

randy

"Jay Chan" wrote in message
om...
I have just got a JET 1.5 HP cansiter dust collector. It has two 4"
inlets that are placed over a 6" inlet -- a very standard thing for a
single stage dust collector. I would like to get rid of those two 4"
inlets and connect a 6" duct directly to the 6" inlet. I know this can
be done because I believe many people have done that before. My
question is: How?

The 6" inlet only has a 1.75" flange. Can I simply use a hose-clamp to
clamp a duct onto the 6" inlet? I am afraid that the 1.75" flange
doesn't provide enough area for the hose-clamp to lock the hose down.
Is there a better way to do this?

Background info that may or may not be relevant:
I want to use a 6" duct connecting to the 6" inlet. The 6" duct
will be a metal fitting that has a 6" opening and a small 2" (or
2.5"?) branching out at a 45-degree angle. I believe it is called a
"45-degree lateral" or something like that.
I will run a short length of 6" flex hose from the metal duct to
the dust port under the table saw, and I will run a short length of 2"
flex hose from the metal duct to the top of the table saw right over
the saw blade. I will move the dust collector to as close to the
table saw as possible; therefore, I don't need any other ductwork. If
I need to capture dust from another power tool, I will move the dust
collector to that power tool, no problem.

Thanks for any info in advance.

Jay Chan

In article nl24c.5465$C51.50125@attbi_s52,
"Mike Hide" wrote:

Considering the above seems to me the heavier dust particleswill just fall
to the bottom of the duct and stay there as the velocity gradient there is
theoretically zero, that is until enough of them are deposited to reduce the
effective area and in turn increase the duct velocity. To me it's kind of
like which came first the chicken or the egg, I suppose at some point the
whole thing stabilizes ???mjh

I would imagine the extensive turbulence cause by joins, etc. would kick
up anything lying on the bottom; i.e. actually not give it a chance to
rest. Laminar airflow is actual quite difficult to achieve (ask airplane
designers; it is one of the holy grails).

The clamp is only about 1/2" wide or less, so the 1.75" will be plenty to
grab. You can always pop a couple of sheetmetal screws into it.

Good. Thanks for the confirmation.

Seem like I was worrying too much. I didn't want to buy the fitting
and then discovered that it would come loose during operation.

Now, I can go ahead to order the fittings/hoses.

Jay Chan

I have to wonder as the diameter of duct increases ,using the incompressable
fluid formula [and I am well aware air is compressable] ...Q=AV where A is
the duct area, V is the velocity in the duct and Q is the volumetric flow
rate , then the velocity will decrease for a given flow rate.

Honestly, I don't quite understand what you said. But I have a feeling
that you are referring to the 45-degree lateral-tee that I want to
connect to the 6" inlet of the dust collector.

The 45-degree lateral-tee that I mentioned in my original message has
a 6" outlet and a 6" inlet with a 2" side inlet. This means the
combined size of those two inlets will be greater than the outlet
size, and I intend to use both inlets at the same time to capture dust
from my table saw. This means the inlet size will be greater than the
outlet size. This means I may have a the bottle-neck at the 6" inlet
of the dust collector. This is probably what you are referring to. And
I probably need to reduce the combined size of the inlets of the
45-degree lateral-tee to match its outlet size. This sounds like a
reasonable concern to me. Thanks for warning.

This means I will need to use a different 45-degree lateral-tee. I am
thinking of getting one that has a 6" outlet and a 5" inlet and a 2"
side-inlet. If such a fitting is not available, I probably need to get
one with a 3" side-inlet and then use a reducer to transition it from
3" to 2". According to books on dust collection, a 5" duct to a table
saw should be good enough. Good, afterall hoses/fittings for 5" duct
are cheaper than those for 6" anyway.

Thanks again.

Jay Chan

I am talking about the oversized duct diameters .....mjh

"Jay Chan" wrote in message
om...
I have to wonder as the diameter of duct increases ,using the
incompressable
fluid formula [and I am well aware air is compressable] ...Q=AV where A
is
the duct area, V is the velocity in the duct and Q is the volumetric
flow
rate , then the velocity will decrease for a given flow rate.

Honestly, I don't quite understand what you said. But I have a feeling
that you are referring to the 45-degree lateral-tee that I want to
connect to the 6" inlet of the dust collector.

The 45-degree lateral-tee that I mentioned in my original message has
a 6" outlet and a 6" inlet with a 2" side inlet. This means the
combined size of those two inlets will be greater than the outlet
size, and I intend to use both inlets at the same time to capture dust
from my table saw. This means the inlet size will be greater than the
outlet size. This means I may have a the bottle-neck at the 6" inlet
of the dust collector. This is probably what you are referring to. And
I probably need to reduce the combined size of the inlets of the
45-degree lateral-tee to match its outlet size. This sounds like a
reasonable concern to me. Thanks for warning.

This means I will need to use a different 45-degree lateral-tee. I am
thinking of getting one that has a 6" outlet and a 5" inlet and a 2"
side-inlet. If such a fitting is not available, I probably need to get
one with a 3" side-inlet and then use a reducer to transition it from
3" to 2". According to books on dust collection, a 5" duct to a table
saw should be good enough. Good, afterall hoses/fittings for 5" duct
are cheaper than those for 6" anyway.

Thanks again.

Jay Chan

I have to wonder as the diameter of duct increases ,using the incompressable
fluid formula [and I am well aware air is compressable] ...Q=AV where A is
the duct area, V is the velocity in the duct and Q is the volumetric flow
rate , then the velocity will decrease for a given flow rate .

Considering the above seems to me the heavier dust particleswill just fall
to the bottom of the duct and stay there as the velocity gradient there is
theoretically zero, that is until enough of them are deposited to reduce the
effective area and in turn increase the duct velocity. To me it's kind of
like which came first the chicken or the egg, I suppose at some point the
whole thing stabilizes ???mjh







"Mike Hide" wrote in message
news:igk4c.16819$mM.121801@attbi_s02...
I am talking about the oversized duct diameters .....mjh

"Jay Chan" wrote in message
om...
I have to wonder as the diameter of duct increases ,using the
incompressable
fluid formula [and I am well aware air is compressable] ...Q=AV where
A
is
the duct area, V is the velocity in the duct and Q is the volumetric
flow
rate , then the velocity will decrease for a given flow rate.

Honestly, I don't quite understand what you said. But I have a feeling
that you are referring to the 45-degree lateral-tee that I want to
connect to the 6" inlet of the dust collector.

The 45-degree lateral-tee that I mentioned in my original message has
a 6" outlet and a 6" inlet with a 2" side inlet. This means the
combined size of those two inlets will be greater than the outlet
size, and I intend to use both inlets at the same time to capture dust
from my table saw. This means the inlet size will be greater than the
outlet size. This means I may have a the bottle-neck at the 6" inlet
of the dust collector. This is probably what you are referring to. And
I probably need to reduce the combined size of the inlets of the
45-degree lateral-tee to match its outlet size. This sounds like a
reasonable concern to me. Thanks for warning.

This means I will need to use a different 45-degree lateral-tee. I am
thinking of getting one that has a 6" outlet and a 5" inlet and a 2"
side-inlet. If such a fitting is not available, I probably need to get
one with a 3" side-inlet and then use a reducer to transition it from
3" to 2". According to books on dust collection, a 5" duct to a table
saw should be good enough. Good, afterall hoses/fittings for 5" duct
are cheaper than those for 6" anyway.

Thanks again.

Jay Chan

That would help, but this particular connection is being "sucked
together", the DC is not trying to blow it apart. One should be
enough. That's all I have on mine, and my setup is identical to what
he is trying to do.

I use a five foot run of 6 inch flex tubing to connect the DC to the
main 6" trunk, which allows me to move it out of the way when I need
to get at my electrical service behind it, or whatever else I might
need to get at.

6 inch flex tubing on a five foot run should not create a large
impediment to air flow, but I wouldn't go any longer.

Joe



Back on the farm we sometimes put two or three clamps on a connection when
one wasn't enough.

-- Mark

That would help, but this particular connection is being "sucked
together", the DC is not trying to blow it apart. One should be
enough. That's all I have on mine, and my setup is identical to what
he is trying to do.

Good to hear that you have a similar setup as what I am trying to
create. May I ask you a question about your setup:

Do you use a QuickConnect to connect the 6" hose to the power tool? I
can only find QuickConnect in 4" diameter, but not 5" or 6".

Thanks.

Jay Chan

Sorry, that part of the setup I'm not doing the same. I had to go
back and reread your original post. Mine is down to 4" by the time it
hits the power tool.

BTW: If you know of a decent 4" quick disconnet, let me know. The
one on my planer stinks.

Joe


Do you use a QuickConnect to connect the 6" hose to the power tool? I
can only find QuickConnect in 4" diameter, but not 5" or 6".

Thanks.

Jay Chan

(BIG JOE) wrote:

Sorry, that part of the setup I'm not doing the same. I had to go
back and reread your original post. Mine is down to 4" by the time it
hits the power tool.

BTW: If you know of a decent 4" quick disconnet, let me know. The
one on my planer stinks.

Joe


Do you use a QuickConnect to connect the 6" hose to the power tool? I
can only find QuickConnect in 4" diameter, but not 5" or 6".

Thanks.

Jay Chan

Jay, I'm not picturing exactly what you want, but I have found that
both a 13oz coffee can and an 18 oz cardboard "barrel" of oatmeal are
sized perfectly for a slip fit in 4" flex tubing (tight) and 4" rigid
hvac duct loose enough for a quick-connect. I have short lengths of
flex on each of two tools near the same gated 4" pipe, with the piece
of flex terminated with one of the cans. When I switch from my planer
to my bandsaw, I just slip the oatmeal can out of the rigid pipe, and
stick the coffee can in.
--
Alex
Make the obvious change in the return address to reply by email.

Sorry, that part of the setup I'm not doing the same. I had to go
back and reread your original post. Mine is down to 4" by the time it
hits the power tool.

Actually, you have already answered my question. You are transitioning
from 6" hose to 4" connection right before you reach the machine. OK.

BTW: If you know of a decent 4" quick disconnet, let me know. The
one on my planer stinks.

Likewise.

I saw in a dust collection book that the author uses a metal connector
for quick connection which doesn't look like the plastic/rubber one
that is widely available. I think I will go looking for it.

Jay Chan

Jay, I'm not picturing exactly what you want, but I have found that
both a 13oz coffee can and an 18 oz cardboard "barrel" of oatmeal are
sized perfectly for a slip fit in 4" flex tubing (tight) and 4" rigid
hvac duct loose enough for a quick-connect. I have short lengths of
flex on each of two tools near the same gated 4" pipe, with the piece
of flex terminated with one of the cans. When I switch from my planer
to my bandsaw, I just slip the oatmeal can out of the rigid pipe, and
stick the coffee can in.

Good. This means I may be able to find bigger cans that will fit into
a 6" connection. I will go to BJ (a discounted shopping club) to see
if they sell big cans like that. Thanks for the idea.

Jay Chan

Actually, you have already answered my question. You are transitioning
from 6" hose to 4" connection right before you reach the machine. OK.

That's the best way to do it, at least for my planer and jointer. The
experts say to narrow it down right before the blast gate, if you are
using them.

My other machines are further down the line, and I narrow the trunk
down to five, and then four inches on down the line.