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Default New Ridgid Tablesaw

On Mar 16, 5:55 pm, dpb wrote:

If they're
really a great thing, they'll take over


And then Lee Valley will come out with their new line of granite hand
planes

UHMW hand planes?

-Kevin
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Default New Ridgid Tablesaw


"Morris Dovey" wrote:

Stainless steel, please!


Only if it is 316L.

Forget the cheap stuff the use for pots and pans (304 AKA: 18-8)

Lew


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"Robatoy" wrote

The cracking has a lot to do with selection. Natural fissures occur,
but can be found ahead of use.
Chip? Well, that takes a bit too. Something that chips granite, will
likely damage/pit cast iron as well.


Used two part epoxy to glue the wood "backsplash" on this 'kitchen desk'
last year:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/3811kit-11.jpg

A month later someone apparently hit it with enough of a 'shear' force to
knock it loose and chip the granite, leaving 1/4" deep pits where the glue
had been applied. The granite chips were still neatly bonded to the wood and
the wood was not damaged, so it certainly appears that the epoxy indeed
weakened the granite?

Decided I didn't want to repeat the process, so I drilled 1/4" holes through
the granite and ply substrate under each foot, applied some construction
adhesive, and ran a wood screw into the wooden feet from underneath. I
figured a mechanical fastener would hopefully preclude a future service
call, and there have been no reported problems since (now that that was said
out loud, just watch the phone ring tomorrow!).

The question: what would *you* have used as an adhesive in the first place
if forced into a similar situation?

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Default New Ridgid Tablesaw

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

"Robatoy" wrote

The cracking has a lot to do with selection. Natural fissures occur,
but can be found ahead of use.
Chip? Well, that takes a bit too. Something that chips granite, will
likely damage/pit cast iron as well.


Used two part epoxy to glue the wood "backsplash" on this 'kitchen desk'
last year:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/3811kit-11.jpg

A month later someone apparently hit it with enough of a 'shear' force to
knock it loose and chip the granite, leaving 1/4" deep pits where the glue
had been applied. The granite chips were still neatly bonded to the wood
and the wood was not damaged, so it certainly appears that the epoxy
indeed weakened the granite?


I doubt the epoxy penetrated the stone surface by 1/4" and compromised the
material. What likely happened is the material directly under the adhesive
spots failed in direct shear, as concrete would in similar circumstance. I
would expect to find 45 degree cones under the spots of adhesive.


Decided I didn't want to repeat the process, so I drilled 1/4" holes
through the granite and ply substrate under each foot, applied some
construction adhesive, and ran a wood screw into the wooden feet from
underneath. I figured a mechanical fastener would hopefully preclude a
future service call, and there have been no reported problems since (now
that that was said out loud, just watch the phone ring tomorrow!).


Depends on edge distance. The expected failure mode is still direct shear,
this time from the bored hole to the edge. The backsplash likely will now
fail first.


The question: what would *you* have used as an adhesive in the first place
if forced into a similar situation?


It isn't a matter of which adhesive. The epoxy held. The failure was in the
substrate, the granite. Approach the problem as though the desktop were high
strength concrete. How many anchors, how deep, how far from the edge, would
you use if it were concrete?




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"Swingman" wrote:

Used two part epoxy to glue the wood "backsplash" on this 'kitchen
desk' last year:


A month later someone apparently hit it with enough of a 'shear'
force to knock it loose and chip the granite, leaving 1/4" deep pits
where the glue had been applied. The granite chips were still neatly
bonded to the wood and the wood was not damaged, so it certainly
appears that the epoxy indeed weakened the granite?


Like you, my first impulse would have been epoxy; however, on 2nd
thought, the epoxy cured and provided a connection which transmitted
the impact to the granite, resulting in failure.

A good adhesive such as Sikaflex 291 or 3M 5200 would provide a good
bond while absorbing enough of the impact energy to avoid granite
failure.

IMHO, mechanical fasteners should be avoided.

If you do use them, make sure holes in granite have clearance to
provide float.

BTW, the epoxy didn't attack the granite, it was simply stronger in an
impact application.

HTH

Lew


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Default New Ridgid Tablesaw

Swingman wrote:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/3811kit-11.jpg


What, you couldn't find any more wood to trim out between crown-n-crown?
:-p

Nice work.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
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---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
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-MIKE- wrote:
Swingman wrote:

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/3811kit-11.jpg


What, you couldn't find any more wood to trim out between
crown-n-crown? :-p

Nice work.


I think I would have glued a small trim piece to the granite and the divider
to the trim piece. That is, install a "weaker link" than the granite itself.


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Yeah, I know this is an ancient thread, but...


On Sat, 14 Mar 2009 21:32:33 GMT, the infamous Nova
scrawled the following:

If my saw breaks I'll fix it myself.


Ditto, whenever possible, Yack. But I want them to pay for parts and
shipping.


Ridigid's "Lifetime Warranty" for large stationary tools, due to the
fact they have to be returned, bothers me when sited as a valid reason
for purchasing their tools as it's virtually useless.


Many large item mfgrs allow you to return them to the dealer you
bought them from and their trucks will pick them up. Check with yours
before buying. Also, disassembly and returning the broken part with
pics should be allowed.

---
A book burrows into your life in a very profound way
because the experience of reading is not passive.
--Erica Jong
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