Well, got the saw unpacked, getting it unpacked in the back of a Grand
Cherokee when it's turned on its side (had something else in the GC so
there wasn't room to put it flat) wasn't fun, but I managed. Got it
downstairs and now it's time to take a break.

Didn't notice until I had it completely unloaded that the model number
is TS 36*6*0, not TS36*5*0.

I'm betting that the number reflects the new packaging that has the
fence in the same box with the rest of the saw rather than any
mechanical changes.

The packaging is _real_ nice. The fasteners are all on a bubble card
with each type labelled as to size and quantity, and they're oriented
so that you can actually count them without opening the bubble.
Everything is in fitted foam. Box weighs a ton (well, not
really--it's listed as 301 pounds).

The heavy pieces are the base and table assembly (the base comes with
the table already attached), the motor, and the table extensions. I
can carry the base but it's awkward, I'd be nervous with it on stairs
(I skidded it down). The extensions and the motor I can carry easily
(one at a time) but if I carry them any distance I know I've been
working (of course that might have more to do with being an old fat
guy than with their actual weight).

One immediate impression, the blade wrenches that come with it appear
to be identical to the ones that Sears sent me as replacements for the
ones that came with my Craftsman RAS many moons ago. Don't know if
that has any significance or not with regard to origin.

There's a dust port under the blade, it's 2-1/2 inch though. At some
point I'll probably cobble up a 4 inch but that's not urgent. I seem
to recall dust collection being a criticism of the 3650 so that might
be new with the 3660.



--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Mar 11, 3:38*pm, "J. Clarke" wrote:
Well, got the saw unpacked, getting it unpacked in the back of a Grand
Cherokee when it's turned on its side (had something else in the GC so
there wasn't room to put it flat) wasn't fun, but I managed. *Got it
downstairs and now it's time to take a break.

Didn't notice until I had it completely unloaded that the model number
is TS 36*6*0, not TS36*5*0.

I'm betting that the number reflects the new packaging that has the
fence in the same box with the rest of the saw rather than any
mechanical changes.

The packaging is _real_ nice. *The fasteners are all on a bubble card
with each type labelled as to size and quantity, and they're oriented
so that you can actually count them without opening the bubble.
Everything is in fitted foam. *Box weighs a ton (well, not
really--it's listed as 301 pounds).

The heavy pieces are the base and table assembly (the base comes with
the table already attached), the motor, and the table extensions. *I
can carry the base but it's awkward, I'd be nervous with it on stairs
(I skidded it down). *The extensions and the motor I can carry easily
(one at a time) but if I carry them any distance I know I've been
working (of course that might have more to do with being an old fat
guy than with their actual weight).

One immediate impression, the blade wrenches that come with it appear
to be identical to the ones that Sears sent me as replacements for the
ones that came with my Craftsman RAS many moons ago. *Don't know if
that has any significance or not with regard to origin.

There's a dust port under the blade, it's 2-1/2 inch though. *At some
point I'll probably cobble up a 4 inch but that's not urgent. *I seem
to recall dust collection being a criticism of the 3650 so that might
be new with the 3660.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

The 3560, at least the one I have, has a 2 1/2" dust collection port.
I use a 2 1/2-4" adaptor.

On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 18:38:05 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

I'm betting that the number reflects the new packaging that has the
fence in the same box with the rest of the saw rather than any
mechanical changes.

There was a number of completely mangled fence boxes when I got mine,
and I got the least mangled of them. So not surprised they changed
that.

The packaging is _real_ nice. The fasteners are all on a bubble card
with each type labelled as to size and quantity, and they're oriented
so that you can actually count them without opening the bubble.

It may have changed, but with mine yes they are were all in a spiffy
bubble packaging. But the labels on the package and the names in the
instructions were translated by different people, so you had to do a
bit of detective work.

There's a dust port under the blade, it's 2-1/2 inch though. At some
point I'll probably cobble up a 4 inch but that's not urgent. I seem
to recall dust collection being a criticism of the 3650 so that might
be new with the 3660.

The 3650 has the 2-1/2 inch port. I don't know if they made any
changes but the problem with it is the shroud around the blade doesn't
go all the way up on the right side, to allow for blade tilt. If you
block this area it works very well, except on cuts where one side of
the blade is exposed, but no under the table collection is going to
help there.


-Leuf

J. Clarke wrote:
Well, got the saw unpacked, getting it unpacked in the back of a
Grand
Cherokee when it's turned on its side (had something else in the GC
so
there wasn't room to put it flat) wasn't fun, but I managed. Got it
downstairs and now it's time to take a break.

Didn't notice until I had it completely unloaded that the model
number
is TS 36*6*0, not TS36*5*0.

I'm betting that the number reflects the new packaging that has the
fence in the same box with the rest of the saw rather than any
mechanical changes.

The packaging is _real_ nice. The fasteners are all on a bubble
card
with each type labelled as to size and quantity, and they're
oriented
so that you can actually count them without opening the bubble.
Everything is in fitted foam. Box weighs a ton (well, not
really--it's listed as 301 pounds).

The heavy pieces are the base and table assembly (the base comes
with
the table already attached), the motor, and the table extensions. I
can carry the base but it's awkward, I'd be nervous with it on
stairs
(I skidded it down). The extensions and the motor I can carry
easily
(one at a time) but if I carry them any distance I know I've been
working (of course that might have more to do with being an old fat
guy than with their actual weight).

One immediate impression, the blade wrenches that come with it
appear
to be identical to the ones that Sears sent me as replacements for
the
ones that came with my Craftsman RAS many moons ago. Don't know if
that has any significance or not with regard to origin.

There's a dust port under the blade, it's 2-1/2 inch though. At
some
point I'll probably cobble up a 4 inch but that's not urgent. I
seem
to recall dust collection being a criticism of the 3650 so that
might
be new with the 3660.

Got the legs on it and got it tipped up. No need for a buddy. Lift
one side, put a block under it, lift the other, do the same, brace the
legs so they won't slide, slip an 8 foot 2x4 under it, and it tips
right up.



--

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:19:07 -0400, Leuf wrote:

On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 18:38:05 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

I'm betting that the number reflects the new packaging that has the
fence in the same box with the rest of the saw rather than any
mechanical changes.

There was a number of completely mangled fence boxes when I got mine,
and I got the least mangled of them. So not surprised they changed
that.

Mine is less than a year old.. It came with one box for saw and fence, one long
box for the rails..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:19:07 -0400, Leuf
wrote:

On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 18:38:05 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

I'm betting that the number reflects the new packaging that has
the
fence in the same box with the rest of the saw rather than any
mechanical changes.

There was a number of completely mangled fence boxes when I got
mine,
and I got the least mangled of them. So not surprised they changed
that.

Mine is less than a year old.. It came with one box for saw and
fence, one long box for the rails..

Is yours a 36_5_0 or a 36_6_0?

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Wed, 12 Mar 2008 13:14:43 -0400, "J. Clarke" wrote:

mac davis wrote:
On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:19:07 -0400, Leuf
wrote:

On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 18:38:05 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

I'm betting that the number reflects the new packaging that has
the
fence in the same box with the rest of the saw rather than any
mechanical changes.

There was a number of completely mangled fence boxes when I got
mine,
and I got the least mangled of them. So not surprised they changed
that.

Mine is less than a year old.. It came with one box for saw and
fence, one long box for the rails..

Is yours a 36_5_0 or a 36_6_0?

--
it's a 50..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

mac davis wrote:
On Wed, 12 Mar 2008 13:14:43 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

mac davis wrote:
On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:19:07 -0400, Leuf

wrote:

On Tue, 11 Mar 2008 18:38:05 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

I'm betting that the number reflects the new packaging that has
the
fence in the same box with the rest of the saw rather than any
mechanical changes.

There was a number of completely mangled fence boxes when I got
mine,
and I got the least mangled of them. So not surprised they
changed
that.

Mine is less than a year old.. It came with one box for saw and
fence, one long box for the rails..

Is yours a 36_5_0 or a 36_6_0?

--
it's a 50..

The ones in the stores now are 60s--the single box seems to be the
major change. Apparently they started shipping sometime in the
December/January timeframe and Ridgid doesn't seem to have bothered to
tell anybody that the model number was changing.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

J. Clarke wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
Well, got the saw unpacked, getting it unpacked in the back of a
Grand
Cherokee when it's turned on its side (had something else in the GC
so
there wasn't room to put it flat) wasn't fun, but I managed. Got
it
downstairs and now it's time to take a break.

Didn't notice until I had it completely unloaded that the model
number
is TS 36*6*0, not TS36*5*0.

I'm betting that the number reflects the new packaging that has the
fence in the same box with the rest of the saw rather than any
mechanical changes.

The packaging is _real_ nice. The fasteners are all on a bubble
card
with each type labelled as to size and quantity, and they're
oriented
so that you can actually count them without opening the bubble.
Everything is in fitted foam. Box weighs a ton (well, not
really--it's listed as 301 pounds).

The heavy pieces are the base and table assembly (the base comes
with
the table already attached), the motor, and the table extensions.
I
can carry the base but it's awkward, I'd be nervous with it on
stairs
(I skidded it down). The extensions and the motor I can carry
easily
(one at a time) but if I carry them any distance I know I've been
working (of course that might have more to do with being an old fat
guy than with their actual weight).

One immediate impression, the blade wrenches that come with it
appear
to be identical to the ones that Sears sent me as replacements for
the
ones that came with my Craftsman RAS many moons ago. Don't know if
that has any significance or not with regard to origin.

There's a dust port under the blade, it's 2-1/2 inch though. At
some
point I'll probably cobble up a 4 inch but that's not urgent. I
seem
to recall dust collection being a criticism of the 3650 so that
might
be new with the 3660.

Got the legs on it and got it tipped up. No need for a buddy. Lift
one side, put a block under it, lift the other, do the same, brace
the
legs so they won't slide, slip an 8 foot 2x4 under it, and it tips
right up.

Well, it's together, cuts Lyptus nice and clean with the factory
blade, which is very thin (even thinner than a thin-kerf Freud). The
particular pieces I cut ended up very slightly crowned, which I
suspect is my technique rather than the saw. Pulled the Oldham off
the RAS and will give that a try just in case it's the blade flexing.

Just for hohos, tried the nickel test, and by golly it balanced.
There's a transient resonance at startup and shut down that shakes it
just enough to knock the nickel over (come on, what do you _expect_
for under 500 bucks), but when it's up to speed the nickel sits there
like it was glued down.

One thing I noticed--I overtightened the screws that hold the
Herculift and it ended up partially supported by the wheels, and was
kind of shaky. Loosened those screws and it firmed right up--I
suspect that the ones that people have seen in stores that were shaky
had been overtightened the same way. Is it solid like a Unisaw? No.
Is it solid enough? I think so.

Went to tune it up and turned out that all the crucial settings were
"dead nuts" right out of the box, or at least as close to it as I
could measure.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

J. Clarke wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
Well, got the saw unpacked, getting it unpacked in the back of a
Grand
Cherokee when it's turned on its side (had something else in the
GC
so
there wasn't room to put it flat) wasn't fun, but I managed. Got
it
downstairs and now it's time to take a break.

Didn't notice until I had it completely unloaded that the model
number
is TS 36*6*0, not TS36*5*0.

I'm betting that the number reflects the new packaging that has
the
fence in the same box with the rest of the saw rather than any
mechanical changes.

The packaging is _real_ nice. The fasteners are all on a bubble
card
with each type labelled as to size and quantity, and they're
oriented
so that you can actually count them without opening the bubble.
Everything is in fitted foam. Box weighs a ton (well, not
really--it's listed as 301 pounds).

The heavy pieces are the base and table assembly (the base comes
with
the table already attached), the motor, and the table extensions.
I
can carry the base but it's awkward, I'd be nervous with it on
stairs
(I skidded it down). The extensions and the motor I can carry
easily
(one at a time) but if I carry them any distance I know I've been
working (of course that might have more to do with being an old
fat
guy than with their actual weight).

One immediate impression, the blade wrenches that come with it
appear
to be identical to the ones that Sears sent me as replacements for
the
ones that came with my Craftsman RAS many moons ago. Don't know
if
that has any significance or not with regard to origin.

There's a dust port under the blade, it's 2-1/2 inch though. At
some
point I'll probably cobble up a 4 inch but that's not urgent. I
seem
to recall dust collection being a criticism of the 3650 so that
might
be new with the 3660.

Got the legs on it and got it tipped up. No need for a buddy.
Lift
one side, put a block under it, lift the other, do the same, brace
the
legs so they won't slide, slip an 8 foot 2x4 under it, and it tips
right up.

Well, it's together, cuts Lyptus nice and clean with the factory
blade, which is very thin (even thinner than a thin-kerf Freud).
The
particular pieces I cut ended up very slightly crowned, which I
suspect is my technique rather than the saw. Pulled the Oldham off
the RAS and will give that a try just in case it's the blade
flexing.

Just for hohos, tried the nickel test, and by golly it balanced.
There's a transient resonance at startup and shut down that shakes
it
just enough to knock the nickel over (come on, what do you _expect_
for under 500 bucks), but when it's up to speed the nickel sits
there
like it was glued down.

One thing I noticed--I overtightened the screws that hold the
Herculift and it ended up partially supported by the wheels, and was
kind of shaky. Loosened those screws and it firmed right up--I
suspect that the ones that people have seen in stores that were
shaky
had been overtightened the same way. Is it solid like a Unisaw?
No.
Is it solid enough? I think so.

Went to tune it up and turned out that all the crucial settings were
"dead nuts" right out of the box, or at least as close to it as I
could measure.

The Oldham blade fixed the taper problem, but I think I need to get it
sharpened--it wasn't cutting as cleanly as the Ridgid. Or I may just
bite the bullet and take a run down to Coastal tomorrow and pick up a
Woodworker II.

Meanwhile, cutting with the fence set on the 1 inch mark I measured
the actual cut as .999. Lookin' good.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Thu, 13 Mar 2008 17:21:15 -0400, "J. Clarke" wrote:


I'm very happy with mine... I don't think you're going to get more saw for the
money anywhere..

Mine seemed a bit smoother after converting to 220v, but that was probably my
imagination..

I'm pleased with the factory blade, which sort of surprises me.. seems to cut
straight and square...

I was expecting to need upgrades on the blade and fence but for my limited skill
level, they're both great..

J. Clarke wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
Well, got the saw unpacked, getting it unpacked in the back of a
Grand
Cherokee when it's turned on its side (had something else in the GC
so
there wasn't room to put it flat) wasn't fun, but I managed. Got
it
downstairs and now it's time to take a break.

Didn't notice until I had it completely unloaded that the model
number
is TS 36*6*0, not TS36*5*0.

I'm betting that the number reflects the new packaging that has the
fence in the same box with the rest of the saw rather than any
mechanical changes.

The packaging is _real_ nice. The fasteners are all on a bubble
card
with each type labelled as to size and quantity, and they're
oriented
so that you can actually count them without opening the bubble.
Everything is in fitted foam. Box weighs a ton (well, not
really--it's listed as 301 pounds).

The heavy pieces are the base and table assembly (the base comes
with
the table already attached), the motor, and the table extensions.
I
can carry the base but it's awkward, I'd be nervous with it on
stairs
(I skidded it down). The extensions and the motor I can carry
easily
(one at a time) but if I carry them any distance I know I've been
working (of course that might have more to do with being an old fat
guy than with their actual weight).

One immediate impression, the blade wrenches that come with it
appear
to be identical to the ones that Sears sent me as replacements for
the
ones that came with my Craftsman RAS many moons ago. Don't know if
that has any significance or not with regard to origin.

There's a dust port under the blade, it's 2-1/2 inch though. At
some
point I'll probably cobble up a 4 inch but that's not urgent. I
seem
to recall dust collection being a criticism of the 3650 so that
might
be new with the 3660.

Got the legs on it and got it tipped up. No need for a buddy. Lift
one side, put a block under it, lift the other, do the same, brace
the
legs so they won't slide, slip an 8 foot 2x4 under it, and it tips
right up.

Well, it's together, cuts Lyptus nice and clean with the factory
blade, which is very thin (even thinner than a thin-kerf Freud). The
particular pieces I cut ended up very slightly crowned, which I
suspect is my technique rather than the saw. Pulled the Oldham off
the RAS and will give that a try just in case it's the blade flexing.

Just for hohos, tried the nickel test, and by golly it balanced.
There's a transient resonance at startup and shut down that shakes it
just enough to knock the nickel over (come on, what do you _expect_
for under 500 bucks), but when it's up to speed the nickel sits there
like it was glued down.

One thing I noticed--I overtightened the screws that hold the
Herculift and it ended up partially supported by the wheels, and was
kind of shaky. Loosened those screws and it firmed right up--I
suspect that the ones that people have seen in stores that were shaky
had been overtightened the same way. Is it solid like a Unisaw? No.
Is it solid enough? I think so.

Went to tune it up and turned out that all the crucial settings were
"dead nuts" right out of the box, or at least as close to it as I
could measure.

--


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...

The Oldham blade fixed the taper problem, but I think I need to get it
sharpened--it wasn't cutting as cleanly as the Ridgid. Or I may just
bite the bullet and take a run down to Coastal tomorrow and pick up a
Woodworker II.

Meanwhile, cutting with the fence set on the 1 inch mark I measured
the actual cut as .999. Lookin' good.


Something to consider if you are thinking about buying a WWII thin kerf. I
had a 1 hp Craftsman saw that did great with a decent quality regular kerf
blade. Smoother cuts and truer cuts than with thin kerf. You might have to
go a little slower with a regular kerf blade but you should get better
results.

mac davis wrote:
On Thu, 13 Mar 2008 17:21:15 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:


I'm very happy with mine... I don't think you're going to get more
saw for the money anywhere..

Mine seemed a bit smoother after converting to 220v, but that was
probably my imagination..

I've run 220 to every tool I have that will take 220. Right now I'm
running the Ridgid on a 12 gage extension cord plugged into a 20 amp
circuit and it's going fine--not going to run a dedicated circuit for
it until I get a little bit of other overhead work done (otherwise
I'll have to do the wiring twice).

I'm pleased with the factory blade, which sort of surprises me..
seems to cut straight and square...

I was expecting to need upgrades on the blade and fence but for my
limited skill level, they're both great..

I like the fence. The grooves that will take a 1/4-20 bolt head are a
very nice touch. Make it very easy to attach featherboards and
jigging. I've been getting within .01 of my target dimension just
eyeballing it--if I need better than that I've got an Incra jig that
adjusts in .001 increments that I can clamp on.

J. Clarke wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
Well, got the saw unpacked, getting it unpacked in the back of a
Grand
Cherokee when it's turned on its side (had something else in the
GC
so
there wasn't room to put it flat) wasn't fun, but I managed. Got
it
downstairs and now it's time to take a break.

Didn't notice until I had it completely unloaded that the model
number
is TS 36*6*0, not TS36*5*0.

I'm betting that the number reflects the new packaging that has
the
fence in the same box with the rest of the saw rather than any
mechanical changes.

The packaging is _real_ nice. The fasteners are all on a bubble
card
with each type labelled as to size and quantity, and they're
oriented
so that you can actually count them without opening the bubble.
Everything is in fitted foam. Box weighs a ton (well, not
really--it's listed as 301 pounds).

The heavy pieces are the base and table assembly (the base comes
with
the table already attached), the motor, and the table extensions.
I
can carry the base but it's awkward, I'd be nervous with it on
stairs
(I skidded it down). The extensions and the motor I can carry
easily
(one at a time) but if I carry them any distance I know I've been
working (of course that might have more to do with being an old
fat
guy than with their actual weight).

One immediate impression, the blade wrenches that come with it
appear
to be identical to the ones that Sears sent me as replacements
for
the
ones that came with my Craftsman RAS many moons ago. Don't know
if
that has any significance or not with regard to origin.

There's a dust port under the blade, it's 2-1/2 inch though. At
some
point I'll probably cobble up a 4 inch but that's not urgent. I
seem
to recall dust collection being a criticism of the 3650 so that
might
be new with the 3660.

Got the legs on it and got it tipped up. No need for a buddy.
Lift
one side, put a block under it, lift the other, do the same, brace
the
legs so they won't slide, slip an 8 foot 2x4 under it, and it tips
right up.

Well, it's together, cuts Lyptus nice and clean with the factory
blade, which is very thin (even thinner than a thin-kerf Freud).
The
particular pieces I cut ended up very slightly crowned, which I
suspect is my technique rather than the saw. Pulled the Oldham off
the RAS and will give that a try just in case it's the blade
flexing.

Just for hohos, tried the nickel test, and by golly it balanced.
There's a transient resonance at startup and shut down that shakes
it
just enough to knock the nickel over (come on, what do you _expect_
for under 500 bucks), but when it's up to speed the nickel sits
there
like it was glued down.

One thing I noticed--I overtightened the screws that hold the
Herculift and it ended up partially supported by the wheels, and
was
kind of shaky. Loosened those screws and it firmed right up--I
suspect that the ones that people have seen in stores that were
shaky
had been overtightened the same way. Is it solid like a Unisaw?
No.
Is it solid enough? I think so.

Went to tune it up and turned out that all the crucial settings
were
"dead nuts" right out of the box, or at least as close to it as I
could measure.

--


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

mac davis wrote in
:

I'm very happy with mine... I don't think you're going to get more saw
for the money anywhere..

Mine seemed a bit smoother after converting to 220v, but that was
probably my imagination..

I'm pleased with the factory blade, which sort of surprises me.. seems
to cut straight and square...

I was expecting to need upgrades on the blade and fence but for my
limited skill level, they're both great..


Ok, you guys have convinced me. We sat in a cold Pizza Hut for 45
minutes and afterwards headed to Home Depot. They had moved the demo saw
off the rack on to the floor (so you could actually SEE it), and
everything looked good. (One of the things that kept me from seriously
considering buying before was that I couldn't see the top of the saw.)
The guys who helped load it both had good opinions of the saw, and
offered them without any proding. That's a Good Thing (tm).

So now it sits in the truck, waiting to be unloaded and assembled.
Grandma's birthday is tomorrow, so I won't be able to unload and assemble
the saw until at least Sunday.

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

On Fri, 14 Mar 2008 19:27:11 -0400, "J. Clarke" wrote:

I've run 220 to every tool I have that will take 220. Right now I'm
running the Ridgid on a 12 gage extension cord plugged into a 20 amp
circuit and it's going fine--not going to run a dedicated circuit for
it until I get a little bit of other overhead work done (otherwise
I'll have to do the wiring twice).

Same here... I have a "multi-head" 220 cord for the carport that's working ok
until our contractor gets his **** together with the RV hookup wiring...
Any load that I can take off the 115v circuits is a good thing..

I like the fence. The grooves that will take a 1/4-20 bolt head are a
very nice touch. Make it very easy to attach featherboards and
jigging. I've been getting within .01 of my target dimension just
eyeballing it--if I need better than that I've got an Incra jig that
adjusts in .001 increments that I can clamp on.

Got to take this with a grain of salt because my table saw since 1980 was a
Shopsmith, but I love the fence on the ridgid.. especially the magnifier on the
micro adjuster....

I use magswitch featherboards and jigs, but use the grooves on the fence for
sacrificial fences and stuff...
I'm pretty much a turner, so it doesn't get a lot of use, but it sure was fun to
use when I build my display shelves...



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On 15 Mar 2008 03:33:38 GMT, Puckdropper wrote:

So now it sits in the truck, waiting to be unloaded and assembled.
Grandma's birthday is tomorrow, so I won't be able to unload and assemble
the saw until at least Sunday.

Puckdropper

I think you'll be happy with it.. it's a nice tool at a good price..

TIP: read the assembly instructions all the way through before you put it
together..

If I remember this right, I didn't see any point in assembling the stand,
flipping it upright and doing a few steps and then flipping it upside down again
to put the Herculift on it...
I'm guessing that at one time the lift was an option and the assembly was
towards the back of the instructions..



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On 3/14/08 2:21 PMMar 14, "mac davis" wrote:

On Thu, 13 Mar 2008 17:21:15 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

I'm very happy with mine... I don't think you're going to get more saw for the
money anywhere..

I agree that it is a good value - and underappreciated.


Mine seemed a bit smoother after converting to 220v, but that was probably my
imagination..

I had the same experience. It sounds smoother, especially during the initial
spin up.

mac davis wrote in
:

I think you'll be happy with it.. it's a nice tool at a good price..

TIP: read the assembly instructions all the way through before you put
it together..

I've been reading a bit on assembling the saw online. On the Ridgid
forums, there's a thread of assembly tips for this saw. (Plus links to
the online manual and a few updates.)

If I remember this right, I didn't see any point in assembling the
stand, flipping it upright and doing a few steps and then flipping it
upside down again to put the Herculift on it...
I'm guessing that at one time the lift was an option and the assembly
was towards the back of the instructions..

This is what most people have said. They also suggest leaving off one
part until you turn the saw upright.

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm