Has anyone tried silicon spray on a table saw blade, to reduce power
requirement?

Walter H. Klaus

"Walter H. Klaus" wrote in message
...
Has anyone tried silicon spray on a table saw blade, to reduce power
requirement?

Walter H. Klaus
It's not a good idea to have silicone around wood work, it will make
problems with your finish. Johnson's wax will help. I put it on my band saw
blade and it quiets it down. Johnson's wax has no silicone in it.

"Walter H. Klaus" wrote in message
...
Has anyone tried silicon spray on a table saw blade, to reduce power
requirement?

Walter H. Klaus

Silicone will get onto the wood and finishes won't take

A properly aligned saw with carbide blade will not be helped with lubricant.
The tips are wider than the blade so there should be no contact aside from
the tooth. Still blades may rub but they are not the best blade to use
anyway.

Upgrade to a better saw and you'll be much happier.

Walter H. Klaus wrote:
Has anyone tried silicon spray on a table saw blade, to reduce power
requirement?

Silicone and woodworking do not mix. Don't get silicone anywhere near
anything used to work with wood. Plays Hell with both finishing and
adhesive bonding, and the stuff is almost impossible to remove once
applied.

I've had good results from sawing through a piece of UHMW polyethylene
(wasn't looking for improved cutting, my objective was to cut the
polyethylene).

There are purpose-made lubricants.
http://www.amazon.com/Olson-blade-lube/dp/B000P4SK9E is one example,
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details
is another.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"Walter H. Klaus" wrote in message
...
Has anyone tried silicon spray on a table saw blade, to reduce power
requirement?

Walter H. Klaus

Silicon will NOT go away. It may become too spread out to matter, but will
not leave.

"Walter H. Klaus" wrote

Has anyone tried silicon spray on a table saw blade, to reduce power
requirement?

Since you were unaware of the dangers of silicone in a woodshop, you may
also be unaware of a product called "TopCote":

http://www.bostik-us.com/products/in...&categoryId=27

If really you feel the need to lubricate your table saw blade, TopCote will
do the job without danger to any future film finishes applied to your
projects.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:

If really you feel the need to lubricate your table saw blade, TopCote will
do the job without danger to any future film finishes applied to your
projects.


TopCote's sister, DriCote, is designed specifically for cutting edges.

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
Swingman wrote:

If really you feel the need to lubricate your table saw blade, TopCote
will do the job without danger to any future film finishes applied to
your projects.


TopCote's sister, DriCote, is designed specifically for cutting edges.

I could well be wrong, but I've suspected that the difference may actually
be more "marketing", than performance, in practical usage. IOW, the old
"change the proportions slightly/add solvent/target a different market"
ploy?

In any event, my use of both, admittedly in non-scientific, everyday,
practical usage, as well as their respective MSDS sheets, has reinforced my
decision to buy only one product, with basically identical results.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
Swingman wrote:

If really you feel the need to lubricate your table saw blade, TopCote
will do the job without danger to any future film finishes applied to
your projects.


TopCote's sister, DriCote, is designed specifically for cutting edges.

I could well be wrong, but I've suspected that the difference may actually
be more "marketing", than performance, in practical usage. IOW, the old
"change the proportions slightly/add solvent/target a different market"
ploy?

In any event, my use of both, admittedly in non-scientific, everyday,
practical usage, as well as their respective MSDS sheets, has reinforced
my decision to buy only one product, with basically identical results.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Have any of U used a product called SlipIt? It comes in a quart sized paint
can. I use it and haven't had any problems with it. It makes my saws cast
iron table top slick and wood moves easily with no resistance.

Joe wrote:

Have any of U used a product called SlipIt? It comes in a quart sized
paint can. I use it and haven't had any problems with it. It makes my
saws cast iron table top slick and wood moves easily with no resistance.
havent

I LIKE Waxilit, but haven't tried SlipIt. Where do you get it?

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
Joe wrote:

Have any of U used a product called SlipIt? It comes in a quart sized
paint can. I use it and haven't had any problems with it. It makes my
saws cast iron table top slick and wood moves easily with no resistance.
havent

I LIKE Waxilit, but haven't tried SlipIt. Where do you get it?

Woodcraft has it. I think it's 13.95 a quart.

From the response I think you get the point. NO No no NO NOOOO!

Stu

"Joe" wrote in message
news

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
Joe wrote:

Have any of U used a product called SlipIt? It comes in a quart sized
paint can. I use it and haven't had any problems with it. It makes my
saws cast iron table top slick and wood moves easily with no resistance.
havent

I LIKE Waxilit, but haven't tried SlipIt. Where do you get it?

Woodcraft has it. I think it's 13.95 a quart.

B A R R Y wrote:
Joe wrote:


Have any of U used a product called SlipIt? It comes in a quart sized
paint can. I use it and haven't had any problems with it. It makes my
saws cast iron table top slick and wood moves easily with no resistance.
havent


I LIKE Waxilit, but haven't tried SlipIt. Where do you get it?

From Mr. SlipIt (Matt Ritter) of course:

Matt Ritter
SLIPIT Industries, Inc.
800-303-0034
http://www.slipit.com/home.html

Anybody know what happened to the Google archives for rec.woodworking?
An advanced Google search for the "never ending" SlipIt thread of about
10 years ago only turns up two messages for the entire thread.

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.w...4c4148fffb7b93

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 12:48:04 -0500, "Joe" wrote:

Have any of U used a product called SlipIt? It comes in a quart sized paint
can. I use it and haven't had any problems with it. It makes my saws cast
iron table top slick and wood moves easily with no resistance.

I haven't tried it. How do you apply and does it dry quickly?

It looks like the price is right if it works well.

Mike O.

In article , "Joe" wrote:

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
. ..

I LIKE Waxilit, but haven't tried SlipIt. Where do you get it?

Woodcraft has it. I think it's 13.95 a quart.

Wow. A can of Johnson's Paste Wax is about 6.95, and is good for years.

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
Joe wrote:

Have any of U used a product called SlipIt? It comes in a quart sized
paint can. I use it and haven't had any problems with it. It makes my
saws cast iron table top slick and wood moves easily with no resistance.
havent

I LIKE Waxilit, but haven't tried SlipIt. Where do you get it?

I have seen it at Home Depot, near the lubricants section, WD40, White
Lithium Grease, 3 in 1 oil and so on. IIRC it comes in a round metal
container with a pry off lid very similar in shape to Johnson's Paste Wax,

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "Joe"
wrote:

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
.. .

I LIKE Waxilit, but haven't tried SlipIt. Where do you get it?

Woodcraft has it. I think it's 13.95 a quart.

Wow. A can of Johnson's Paste Wax is about 6.95, and is good for years.


Yeah but Johnson's paste wax is about the least effective product that I
have used for rust prevention and or slicking up the surface.

Joe wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
Swingman wrote:

If really you feel the need to lubricate your table saw blade, TopCote
will do the job without danger to any future film finishes applied to
your projects.


TopCote's sister, DriCote, is designed specifically for cutting edges.

I could well be wrong, but I've suspected that the difference may actually
be more "marketing", than performance, in practical usage. IOW, the old
"change the proportions slightly/add solvent/target a different market"
ploy?

In any event, my use of both, admittedly in non-scientific, everyday,
practical usage, as well as their respective MSDS sheets, has reinforced
my decision to buy only one product, with basically identical results.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Have any of U used a product called SlipIt? It comes in a quart sized paint
can. I use it and haven't had any problems with it. It makes my saws cast
iron table top slick and wood moves easily with no resistance.

I have a Harbor Fright spray can that you pressurize with the air
hose. In it I use paraffin wax dissolved in mineral spirits. Just
spritz a little on and rub it in with a paper towel. For stained areas
I rub it with a green scuffing pad then wipe off. This seems to help
prevent rust and makes the surface slippery.
It also helps on lathe ways and vise screws and doesn't catch dust.
Good to dip wood screw threads in (and allow to dry, not to use wet).

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

A goal is a dream taken seriously. -
Henry David Thoreau

In article , "Leon" wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
.. .
In article , "Joe"
wrote:

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
. ..

I LIKE Waxilit, but haven't tried SlipIt. Where do you get it?

Woodcraft has it. I think it's 13.95 a quart.

Wow. A can of Johnson's Paste Wax is about 6.95, and is good for years.


Yeah but Johnson's paste wax is about the least effective product that I
have used for rust prevention and or slicking up the surface.

It works great for me -- but if I recall correctly, you live in the Houston
area, which is a *lot* more humid than where I live (Indianapolis). I'm sure
that makes a difference. Another thing that might be a factor is the location
of the shop. I don't recall if you've ever mentioned where yours is; mine is
in the basement of my house, so it's climate-controlled year-round. I run
dehumidifiers constantly, too.

Swingman wrote:

If really you feel the need to lubricate your table saw blade, TopCote
will do the job without danger to any future film finishes applied to
your projects.

If you REALLY need to lubricate your table saw blade, you probably need a
better table saw. There is no substitute for horsepower.

Leon wrote:

Yeah but Johnson's paste wax is about the least effective product that I
have used for rust prevention and or slicking up the surface.


Same here.

I really like Waxilit after using Top Cote and clones, Top Saver, paste
wax, canning wax, etc...

I initially bought Waxilit as a glue resist, but tried it on the iron
based on the suggestion on the can.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "Leon"
wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
. ..
In article , "Joe"
wrote:

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...

I LIKE Waxilit, but haven't tried SlipIt. Where do you get it?

Woodcraft has it. I think it's 13.95 a quart.

Wow. A can of Johnson's Paste Wax is about 6.95, and is good for years.


Yeah but Johnson's paste wax is about the least effective product that I
have used for rust prevention and or slicking up the surface.

It works great for me -- but if I recall correctly, you live in the
Houston
area, which is a *lot* more humid than where I live (Indianapolis). I'm
sure
that makes a difference. Another thing that might be a factor is the
location
of the shop. I don't recall if you've ever mentioned where yours is; mine
is
in the basement of my house, so it's climate-controlled year-round. I run
dehumidifiers constantly, too.

Yes Johnson's wax does work well for many. Others in other locations
require a better solution. Yeah I'm in Houston, with its humidity. My shop
in my garage facing North. Facing north does make a difference. Living
somewhat near the coast the prevailing southerly winds bring in moist air
from the gulf. Typically southern exposed surfaces will rust more quickly
than the northern facing surfaces. I suspect that there is a trace of salt
mixed in with that southern breeze.

In article , "Leon" wrote:

Yes Johnson's wax does work well for many. Others in other locations
require a better solution. Yeah I'm in Houston, with its humidity. My shop
in my garage facing North. Facing north does make a difference. Living
somewhat near the coast the prevailing southerly winds bring in moist air
from the gulf. Typically southern exposed surfaces will rust more quickly
than the northern facing surfaces. I suspect that there is a trace of salt
mixed in with that southern breeze.

Wow, I forgot about the salt. I've lived in the Great Lakes region my entire
life, and we tend not to think about sort of thing here. Folks from other
parts of the world do: I remember reading a few years ago about a German
tourist visiting the beach in Milwaukee who fell asleep on an air mattress and
drifted out into the lake. The Coast Guard rescued him the next morning,
suffering from sunburn (of course) and dehydration. What?? Dehydration? In
Lake Michigan? Then it dawned on me. Tourist. German. The guy is definitely
Not From Around Here. Probably never even crossed his mind that the water
might be *fresh*. Might not have crossed yours, either, if you've lived in
Houston all your life, but if you grow up around the Great Lakes as I did,
salt water is the novelty. :-)

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
Yeah but Johnson's paste wax is about the least effective product that I
have used for rust prevention and or slicking up the surface.

Same here.

I really like Waxilit after using Top Cote and clones, Top Saver, paste
wax, canning wax, etc...

I initially bought Waxilit as a glue resist, but tried it on the iron
based on the suggestion on the can.

IIRC when I was researching Waxilit its was developed for the purpose of
protecting and slicking up the exposed surfaces of machinery.

I started using these specially formulated protestants in the late 80's.
TopCote was owned by the people that make Empire products and the product
came in pump bottles.. Apparently they sold the product to Bostitch and it
was has since been packaged in a pressurized aerosol. Empire Top Saver, Top
Lube, etc made by the original makers of TopCote is pretty good stuff also.
Their products come in the familiar pump bottles.

Anyway after about 6 years of using TopCote I decided to use the Empire Top
Saver product on my TS top. I squirted the product all over the top and
then laid a Scotch Brite pad on the surface, set my ROS on top of the pad
and proceeded to work the surface over. Wow, the surface was nice and clean
looking again. Since that treatment the top has been even more resistant to
rust although I still use TopCote regularly.

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 19:56:12 -0500, "Walter H. Klaus"
wrote:

Has anyone tried silicon spray on a table saw blade, to reduce power
requirement?

Walter H. Klaus

I have a couple of Freud blades that have a teflon coating, so
obviously at least one blade manufacturer thinks a coating is
worthwhile. According to Freud, it "helps reduce friction, heat
build-up, and gumming – which prolongs the life of the blade".

I also have a Forrest Woodworker II which is arguably the best
available general purpose blade, and it has no coating. I do spray it
with a dry lubricant each time after I clean the pitch off. Does it
make a difference? I don't know, but I figure it doesn't hurt.

Jim Weisgram wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 19:56:12 -0500, "Walter H. Klaus"
wrote:

Has anyone tried silicon spray on a table saw blade, to reduce power
requirement?

Walter H. Klaus

Sorry if this is redundant but I have not followed this thread until now.

My advice? Well, as long as someone asked. Are you nuts? Keep silicon
away from wood, tools, anything that might come into contact with wood.
Bad stuff when it comes to trying to fifnish your project. Can anyone
say fisheyes? Once the surface is contaminated, close to impossible to
get rid of it.

Harvey