Has anyone tried silicon spray on a table saw blade, to reduce power
requirement?

Walter H. Klaus

"Walter H. Klaus" wrote in message
...
Has anyone tried silicon spray on a table saw blade, to reduce power
requirement?

Walter H. Klaus
It's not a good idea to have silicone around wood work, it will make
problems with your finish. Johnson's wax will help. I put it on my band saw
blade and it quiets it down. Johnson's wax has no silicone in it.

"Walter H. Klaus" wrote in message
...
Has anyone tried silicon spray on a table saw blade, to reduce power
requirement?

Walter H. Klaus

Silicone will get onto the wood and finishes won't take

A properly aligned saw with carbide blade will not be helped with lubricant.
The tips are wider than the blade so there should be no contact aside from
the tooth. Still blades may rub but they are not the best blade to use
anyway.

Upgrade to a better saw and you'll be much happier.

Walter H. Klaus wrote:
Has anyone tried silicon spray on a table saw blade, to reduce power
requirement?

Silicone and woodworking do not mix. Don't get silicone anywhere near
anything used to work with wood. Plays Hell with both finishing and
adhesive bonding, and the stuff is almost impossible to remove once
applied.

I've had good results from sawing through a piece of UHMW polyethylene
(wasn't looking for improved cutting, my objective was to cut the
polyethylene).

There are purpose-made lubricants.
http://www.amazon.com/Olson-blade-lube/dp/B000P4SK9E is one example,
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details
is another.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"Walter H. Klaus" wrote in message
...
Has anyone tried silicon spray on a table saw blade, to reduce power
requirement?

Walter H. Klaus

Silicon will NOT go away. It may become too spread out to matter, but will
not leave.

"Walter H. Klaus" wrote

Has anyone tried silicon spray on a table saw blade, to reduce power
requirement?

Since you were unaware of the dangers of silicone in a woodshop, you may
also be unaware of a product called "TopCote":

http://www.bostik-us.com/products/in...&categoryId=27

If really you feel the need to lubricate your table saw blade, TopCote will
do the job without danger to any future film finishes applied to your
projects.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:

If really you feel the need to lubricate your table saw blade, TopCote will
do the job without danger to any future film finishes applied to your
projects.


TopCote's sister, DriCote, is designed specifically for cutting edges.

"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
Swingman wrote:

If really you feel the need to lubricate your table saw blade, TopCote
will do the job without danger to any future film finishes applied to
your projects.


TopCote's sister, DriCote, is designed specifically for cutting edges.

I could well be wrong, but I've suspected that the difference may actually
be more "marketing", than performance, in practical usage. IOW, the old
"change the proportions slightly/add solvent/target a different market"
ploy?

In any event, my use of both, admittedly in non-scientific, everyday,
practical usage, as well as their respective MSDS sheets, has reinforced my
decision to buy only one product, with basically identical results.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
Swingman wrote:

If really you feel the need to lubricate your table saw blade, TopCote
will do the job without danger to any future film finishes applied to
your projects.


TopCote's sister, DriCote, is designed specifically for cutting edges.

I could well be wrong, but I've suspected that the difference may actually
be more "marketing", than performance, in practical usage. IOW, the old
"change the proportions slightly/add solvent/target a different market"
ploy?

In any event, my use of both, admittedly in non-scientific, everyday,
practical usage, as well as their respective MSDS sheets, has reinforced
my decision to buy only one product, with basically identical results.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Have any of U used a product called SlipIt? It comes in a quart sized paint
can. I use it and haven't had any problems with it. It makes my saws cast
iron table top slick and wood moves easily with no resistance.

Joe wrote:

Have any of U used a product called SlipIt? It comes in a quart sized
paint can. I use it and haven't had any problems with it. It makes my
saws cast iron table top slick and wood moves easily with no resistance.
havent

I LIKE Waxilit, but haven't tried SlipIt. Where do you get it?

On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 12:48:04 -0500, "Joe" wrote:

Have any of U used a product called SlipIt? It comes in a quart sized paint
can. I use it and haven't had any problems with it. It makes my saws cast
iron table top slick and wood moves easily with no resistance.

I haven't tried it. How do you apply and does it dry quickly?

It looks like the price is right if it works well.

Mike O.

Joe wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"B A R R Y" wrote in message
...
Swingman wrote:

If really you feel the need to lubricate your table saw blade, TopCote
will do the job without danger to any future film finishes applied to
your projects.


TopCote's sister, DriCote, is designed specifically for cutting edges.

I could well be wrong, but I've suspected that the difference may actually
be more "marketing", than performance, in practical usage. IOW, the old
"change the proportions slightly/add solvent/target a different market"
ploy?

In any event, my use of both, admittedly in non-scientific, everyday,
practical usage, as well as their respective MSDS sheets, has reinforced
my decision to buy only one product, with basically identical results.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/18/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Have any of U used a product called SlipIt? It comes in a quart sized paint
can. I use it and haven't had any problems with it. It makes my saws cast
iron table top slick and wood moves easily with no resistance.

I have a Harbor Fright spray can that you pressurize with the air
hose. In it I use paraffin wax dissolved in mineral spirits. Just
spritz a little on and rub it in with a paper towel. For stained areas
I rub it with a green scuffing pad then wipe off. This seems to help
prevent rust and makes the surface slippery.
It also helps on lathe ways and vise screws and doesn't catch dust.
Good to dip wood screw threads in (and allow to dry, not to use wet).

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

A goal is a dream taken seriously. -
Henry David Thoreau

Swingman wrote:

If really you feel the need to lubricate your table saw blade, TopCote
will do the job without danger to any future film finishes applied to
your projects.

If you REALLY need to lubricate your table saw blade, you probably need a
better table saw. There is no substitute for horsepower.

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 19:56:12 -0500, "Walter H. Klaus"
wrote:

Has anyone tried silicon spray on a table saw blade, to reduce power
requirement?

Walter H. Klaus

I have a couple of Freud blades that have a teflon coating, so
obviously at least one blade manufacturer thinks a coating is
worthwhile. According to Freud, it "helps reduce friction, heat
build-up, and gumming – which prolongs the life of the blade".

I also have a Forrest Woodworker II which is arguably the best
available general purpose blade, and it has no coating. I do spray it
with a dry lubricant each time after I clean the pitch off. Does it
make a difference? I don't know, but I figure it doesn't hurt.

Jim Weisgram wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 19:56:12 -0500, "Walter H. Klaus"
wrote:

Has anyone tried silicon spray on a table saw blade, to reduce power
requirement?

Walter H. Klaus

Sorry if this is redundant but I have not followed this thread until now.

My advice? Well, as long as someone asked. Are you nuts? Keep silicon
away from wood, tools, anything that might come into contact with wood.
Bad stuff when it comes to trying to fifnish your project. Can anyone
say fisheyes? Once the surface is contaminated, close to impossible to
get rid of it.

Harvey